“Toughest” 0W-20

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Originally Posted By: StevieC
There is one best oil.

Problem is it is dependent on a number of factors like engine, temperature, fuel type, driving pattern, OCI etc.

So what is the best most toughest oil for one person isn't the same for another. It's why BITOG exists so we can discuss it!





Good point. One person may have a older engine with port fuel injection while another will have a TGDI engine. So there are some considerations.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
M1 EP 0w-20 is probably the most robust with the least amount of VII's in it due to the large portion of it being PAO.


++1

Remember, you have an 8-QT sump IIRC. Cost is a consideration, and so is your warranty, so I'd steer clear of boutique oils and anything thicker than the recommended spec's. So I'd take advantage of rebates in season...
 
Originally Posted By: Oil_Flunky
Find the oil of Chuck Norris, for the "Toughest."


He doesn't do "push-ups".....He does "earth downs"! Chuck Norris is the only movie star I've ever met in person (worked on his car)....He was a Fort Worth regular for years with Walker, Texas Ranger. Really nice guy!

We run 0w40 synthetic in all the Ecotec3 engines we put TVS1900/TVS2300 superchargers on, A 10w30/5w30/0w30 WILL NOT harm these engines.
 
Separate question; when switching to a heavier viscosity oil, your oil temps will increase, correct? So if that’s the case, then wouldn’t switching to a heavier viscosity slightly negate the change? Due to the oil being hotter, and the hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets.
 
Originally Posted By: windeye
I have the memory of M1 oils have much elevated iron level from enough UOAs posted here. Don't remember there ever was a good enough explanation from Mobil. I am using PP 0w20 for my Mazdas and TGMO for the Camry currently.


I remember those too, and I was a firm Mobil-1 believer. After reading those and the associated comments I switched to Pennzoil Platinum and haven't looked back.
I also thought, even though this has likely been debunked, that with the Pennzoil Platinum, my truck ran quieter and smoother.

Nowadays, with so many quality oils on the market, I don't you can go wrong with most of them but for the price I can usually find PP or PUP, I will like stick with it.
 
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Extremely well said StevieC and PimTac.


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Originally Posted By: Bxnanaz
Separate question; when switching to a heavier viscosity oil, your oil temps will increase, correct? So if that’s the case, then wouldn’t switching to a heavier viscosity slightly negate the change? Due to the oil being hotter, and the hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets.


No, the difference in temp is minimal.
 
Originally Posted By: Bxnanaz
Separate question; when switching to a heavier viscosity oil, your oil temps will increase, correct? So if that’s the case, then wouldn’t switching to a heavier viscosity slightly negate the change? Due to the oil being hotter, and the hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets.

Temp increase ? ....... in some cases if perceptible , but not all cases.
If ever there is temp increase, it's minimal as per Overkill. I would speculate generally, a figure of 1-3*C increase.

Hotter (or warmer ) oil of thicker viscosity grade oil gets thinner than cooler oil of lower viscosity grade ?
Not true in almost all of the cases in terms of operating viscosity.
A 'hotter' xW30 at say, 105*C has typically higher operating viscosity (and hence MOFT) than a 'cooler' xW20 at 100*C.

So is xW30 vs xW40 or xW20 vs xW40.
 
minimal fuel penalty vs. elevated protection with 0/40, no question here.
 
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Originally Posted By: dblshock
minimal fuel penalty vs. elevated protection with 0W-40, no question here.


That is something to consider.
 
Originally Posted By: Oil_Flunky
Find the oil of Chuck Norris, for the "Toughest."

I don't know about that. Norris oil is getting on a bit and you would need to see if it has enough calcium in it so it don't break something structural.
 
Originally Posted By: Bxnanaz
Separate question; when switching to a heavier viscosity oil, your oil temps will increase, correct? So if that’s the case, then wouldn’t switching to a heavier viscosity slightly negate the change? Due to the oil being hotter, and the hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets.
True, but only (as you say) slightly hotter with the thicker oil, obviously never enough to make it thinner than a thinner grade oil.
 
QSUD 0W20 and Valvoline 0W20 full synthetic with Maxlife technology always seemed to run well in my engines. I also use the Valvoline full syn with Maxlife tech in the 5W30 for my Lexus and it runs smooth as silk.
 
Originally Posted By: CR94
Originally Posted By: Bxnanaz
Separate question; when switching to a heavier viscosity oil, your oil temps will increase, correct? So if that’s the case, then wouldn’t switching to a heavier viscosity slightly negate the change? Due to the oil being hotter, and the hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets.

True, but only (as you say) slightly hotter with the thicker oil, obviously never enough to make it thinner than a thinner grade oil.


Depends on what controls oil temp?

Air cooled engines w/o oil cooler, maybe the logic holds.

Water cooled, the few degrees rise in the bearings will not offset the viscosity that much. Also depends on bearing clearances and side leakage rate ...
 
Was at Wal-Mart last night looking at my options for my new GMC Yukon Denali with the 6.2L V8 in it that calls for 0w20 (essentially the same engine as in the Corvette that calls for 5w30,) and I saw this Mobil 1 0w-30 AFE product. Same GM Dexos 1, GM 6094M, and API CF specs. Being in Central Texas I'd like a little more protection in the Summer months, and I might consider this over the 0w-20 if I do in fact decide not to go with 5w-30.

 
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