“Toughest” 0W-20

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The previous post by Linctex has the right idea. Go for a Xw-30 oil if you plan to keep your tow vehicle beyond the warranty and have any concern for wear and tear on the engine. Let someone else save the planet and concentrate your efforts on saving your vehicle.

In the meantime, check the oil temperature. An IR gun should be good enough. If you change viscosity, check it again. BITOG members would like to know.
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
The previous post by Linctex has the right idea. Go for a Xw-30 oil if you plan to keep your tow vehicle beyond the warranty and have any concern for wear and tear on the engine. Let someone else save the planet and concentrate your efforts on saving your vehicle.

In the meantime, check the oil temperature. An IR gun should be good enough. If you change viscosity, check it again. BITOG members would like to know.


Not worried about MPG (at least the difference between 20-30), nor saving the planet. I have considered swapping to a 5w-30 in the summer. Not much towing happening for me in the winter due to racing season being over.
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
The previous post by Linctex has the right idea. Go for a Xw-30 oil if you plan to keep your tow vehicle beyond the warranty and have any concern for wear and tear on the engine. Let someone else save the planet and concentrate your efforts on saving your vehicle.

In the meantime, check the oil temperature. An IR gun should be good enough. If you change viscosity, check it again. BITOG members would like to know.



I have a very similar situation except mine is a 2016 model with the same engine. I have about (6) 5 quart jugs 10 quarts of the Castrol Magnatec that we BiTOG'ers got in on earlier this year when it was a nickel (yes I said 5 cents!) a quart. I got these same jugs for the same price as the quarts! Not kidding - I may have a pic on a prior post in whatever thread it was in.

Both the Silverado and my Acura RDX call for 0w-20 so I hate to not put this oil to good use.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bxnanaz
I was by no means unimpressed with AFE. I will say that PP is noticeably quieter at idle, which is weird considering it’s slightly thinner via their spec sheets

Odd. I had the exact opposite results when using PP vs M1 AFE in my Accord. The AFE was noticeably quieter which is why I kept using it.
 
So did I = one Ford and one GM ~ with dB meter … I think some of the “sound” is frequency and as my most recent hearing test reminds me even your own two ears might not be the same …
The PUP being loud under a metal roof was not bad alongside a brick wall …
 
Originally Posted By: Bxnanaz
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
You should not overlook M1 AFE 0W-20. I was not impressed with M1 EP as I was with M1 AFE when towing in my 2010 FX4. The AFE easily lasted as long as the EP and it was cheaper.
I was by no means unimpressed with AFE. I will say that PP is noticeably quieter at idle, which is weird considering it’s slightly thinner via their spec sheets
I ran Pennzoil Ultra, Mobil 5000, M1 AFE, and M1 EP in my 2010 FX4. I could tell no difference and neither could the engine. It towed between 8-9,000 pounds for 45% of the 158K miles I had it in varying conditions like 117F and mountains. You are overthinking this.

See my UOAs for more data.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
OneEyeJack,

Would the 5W-30 screw up the variable valve timing stuff and cause a check engine light ?



I look at this and the first words out of my mouth are "Your kidding me"
 
Any 0w20 that meets dexos1 will you give you years of trouble-free service with no problems. You don't even have to change the oil every 5k since your truck has the OLM which gives you a good OCI recommendation based on your driving conditions.

For 5k, any 0w20 will do
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Mainia
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
OneEyeJack,

Would the 5W-30 screw up the variable valve timing stuff and cause a check engine light ?



I look at this and the first words out of my mouth are "Your kidding me"


He just asked a question...


And to answer your question, you’ll be fine.

Oh, and *you’re*
 
Is anyone surprised that one oil is quieter in a Honda, another in a Ford, and another in a GM? Then another Ford was run hard and liked all oils dumped in it?
 
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Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Is anyone surprised that one oil is quieter in a Honda, another in a Ford, and another in a GM? Then another Ford had the peez run out of it and liked all oils dumped in it?


Not really surprising to be honest. They all have different oil systems, clearances, and even valvetrain design
 
My 2007 Tahoe 5.3 just got M1 0W-30 for the winter after a summer diet of M1 5W-30 HM (which is much more viscous). But, this engine is spec’d for 5W-30....

I have 3 0W-20 vehicles to feed. Two of them now get M1 AFE (Walmart’s Black Friday price of $19.98/jug ensured this). The third is a brand new Mazda so I drank the kool-aid and paid $7.25/qt for two OCs of Mazda High Moly.
 
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Originally Posted By: 4WD
But the HTHS is not higher than M1 EP and it does fine on LSP testing …

You might accidentally spill some 5w30 in that motor one day.
wink.gif




Would have already happened here!
 
I'm not putting this forward as gospel as I'm certainly not technically inclined enough to know whether this link is legit information or is snake oil analysis. I only post this in hopes that those in the know would comment and shed some light on this information, factual or fake. But if this is to be believed QSUD 0w-20-at least the old formula- is the way to go. (My apologies if this has been posted before.)

Best motor oils
 
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Originally Posted By: sopususer
I'm not putting this forward as gospel as I'm certainly not technically inclined enough to know whether this link is legit information or is snake oil analysis. I only post this in hopes that those in the know would comment and shed some light on this information, factual or fake. But if this is to be believed QSUD 0w-20-at least the old formula- is the way to go. (My apologies if this has been posted before.)

Best motor oils





Looks like something copied from the Rat blog. Problem is, the list is dated June 2016 and all the oils have been reformulated or are in the process for the new dexos gen 2. Oil formulations are forever changing for a number of reasons.

It has been said so many times here. There is no best motor oil. Pick any major brand, change it religiously on a prescribed schedule and run your engine for many many miles.
 
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Originally Posted By: sopususer
I'm not putting this forward as gospel as I'm certainly not technically inclined enough to know whether this link is legit information or is snake oil analysis. I only post this in hopes that those in the know would comment and shed some light on this information, factual or fake. But if this is to be believed QSUD 0w-20-at least the old formula- is the way to go. (My apologies if this has been posted before.)

Best motor oils





Looks like something copied from the Rat blog. Problem is, the list is dated June 2016 and all the oils have been reformulated or are in the process for the new dexos gen 2. Oil formulations are forever changing for a number of reasons.

It has been said so many times here. There is no best motor oil. Pick any major brand, change it religiously on a prescribed schedule and run your engine for many many miles.


That’s what I’m starting to see. Think I’m just gonna run some quality full syn that’s on sale. Pretty much what I’ve done my whole life.
 
There is one best oil.

Problem is it is dependent on a number of factors like engine, temperature, fuel type, driving pattern, OCI etc.

So what is the best most toughest oil for one person isn't the same for another. It's why BITOG exists so we can discuss it!
 
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