Oil (re)selection for GDI
- Thread starter johnmyster
- Start date
It's available at NAPA and ADVANCED AUTO . Too expensive at this time at NAPA . A.A.P. has it for $41.99 for 5 quart jug , so $8.40 a quart . I think the rebate for PENNZOIL is possibly in March or February. OXIDATION for PU. 5w-30 is 10.1 .
View attachment 201033
Rebate started today . Go here for details .
PENNZOIL $25 rebate on 10 quarts starts today ( 2/1/24 ) until
9/30/24 . https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promotions/do-it-yourself-oil-change.html https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promotions/change-it-for-me-oil-change-specials/pennzoil-platinum-rewards-national-promotion.html#iframe=L0RJRk0vTzI1NDFfNDIvZm9ybS5jZm0
bobistheoilguy.com
Well, to update, current thinking:
1) The current amazon deal, $43 a case, for 3 jugs of Pennzoil Euro L (5w-30) is a great deal on what is probably a great oil. I'd love to stock up on a few years worth and be done. But it's stout for a 30 weight. Moreso, even after reading the hotly debated threads on the topic, I'm not assured that the MB229.51 or LL-04 spec is/was intended to offer as much (or any) LSPI protection as SP, Dexos1, etc. The VOAs for out there for it pretty much show mid Ca and Zn/P, and nothing more. Moderate B, no moly. I'm just not easy drinking the euro kool aid for this GDI application.
2) I can accumulate a fair amount of clearance/rebate oils like PP and M1-EP, usually around $15 a jug. I think my best plan is to go to 6-8 month intervals (>3000 miles) and use a good oil. It'll probably end up being 3000 mile oil changes. Dexos1 in a 5w-30 gains me some HTHS and most of those oils are around 10 cSt. So from there I just have to choose weather to stick with the HM variants or the plain flavors. VOAs where available for recent PP and M1-EP look nearly identical for HM vs non-HM blends. They're all pretty lean, which is probably what I want for IVD. From there the conservative interval keeps piston rings happy.
3) I'll probably change to a top shelf 7317 style filter, and run it multiple intervals. The mazda value filter I've always used has gone up to $7, has no ADBV, and probably isn't much of a filter. 75% of the mess during oil changes is dealing with the filter. Make that mess once every 12-18 months.
Check me where my thinking is flawed.
1) The current amazon deal, $43 a case, for 3 jugs of Pennzoil Euro L (5w-30) is a great deal on what is probably a great oil. I'd love to stock up on a few years worth and be done. But it's stout for a 30 weight. Moreso, even after reading the hotly debated threads on the topic, I'm not assured that the MB229.51 or LL-04 spec is/was intended to offer as much (or any) LSPI protection as SP, Dexos1, etc. The VOAs for out there for it pretty much show mid Ca and Zn/P, and nothing more. Moderate B, no moly. I'm just not easy drinking the euro kool aid for this GDI application.
2) I can accumulate a fair amount of clearance/rebate oils like PP and M1-EP, usually around $15 a jug. I think my best plan is to go to 6-8 month intervals (>3000 miles) and use a good oil. It'll probably end up being 3000 mile oil changes. Dexos1 in a 5w-30 gains me some HTHS and most of those oils are around 10 cSt. So from there I just have to choose weather to stick with the HM variants or the plain flavors. VOAs where available for recent PP and M1-EP look nearly identical for HM vs non-HM blends. They're all pretty lean, which is probably what I want for IVD. From there the conservative interval keeps piston rings happy.
3) I'll probably change to a top shelf 7317 style filter, and run it multiple intervals. The mazda value filter I've always used has gone up to $7, has no ADBV, and probably isn't much of a filter. 75% of the mess during oil changes is dealing with the filter. Make that mess once every 12-18 months.
Check me where my thinking is flawed.
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I would in a climate that isn't very cold. You don't need a 0W for cold starts in your climate. Like I mentioned, a 0W-20 normally contains more VII, which contributes to valve deposits. This assumes that the two oils use similar base stocks.
The 0W-20 will also experience more permanent shear-thinning. The 5W-20 will retain its viscosity better by the end of an OCI.
The 5W-20 will also be thicker at very high shear rates (like at the piston rings and cams) even if it has the same HTHS as the 0W-20. Its viscosity in these areas will be somewhere between that of a 0W-20 and a 5W-30, since the base stock viscosity makes a big difference when shear rates are this high.
So, you can think of the 5W-20 as a compromise between a 0W-20 and 5W-30 in terms of viscosity, engine protection, and fuel economy. It will have less VII than either of those oils, which could be beneficial in terms of deposits.
MB 229.51 apparently now includes an LSPI test, but I'd still be wary of using an oil that has a lot of calcium. Higher-calcium oils can still perform okay in LSPI tests if they have a lot of ZDDP and moly, but calcium is by far the most important factor.
API SP and D1G3 each have their own LSPI tests, and I'd feel more comfortable using an oil with <1200 ppm calcium that also passes both of these tests.
I'd use a FRAM Endurance. It's got a thick can, and doesn't have the corrosion issues sometimes seen with the other FRAM models like the Ultra, so it's a good choice for a filter that's going to stay on the car for a long time.
dnewton3
Staff member
This is mind, then any lube with a good detergent package and low NOACK score will suffice.
That should be no problem; see above. (By limiting yourself to this, you are excluding Amsoil, HPL, etc.)
No current leader; not that we BITOGers would be easily able to distinguish. There will always be slight differences, but none that a typical application would see manifest into either certain destruction or assured infinite life of the engine. Hence, see my first comment at the top.
Minor nuances perhaps at most, but generally nothing that you're going to discern in your use.
Bottom line is this ... There are some reasonable assurances in the industry to address your concerns of IVD and LSPI. Look for lubes that are licensed for GM's Dexos and API SP (or, lubes with a well-proven pedigree that would "meet/exceed", but which may not be licensed).
Thank you. Looking at VOAs (where available) for leading candidates, it appears some 5w-30s have some of the lower noack scores vs 20 weights. I'll set this concern aside for a few years, keep intervals relatively short, and accumulate/use M1-EP and PP 5w-30 as I need.
I don't feel like SOPUS has put much effort into developing PUP. It looks a lot like PP on the PDS. And why would they? They don't sell much of it. I'd steer more toward PP if I was a Pennzoil guy. I think all their marbles are put into that product because of its sheer volume and stature in the marketplace.
As for M1, that is my go-to.
Another thought...Maybe more frequent changes with a less expensive SP rated oil (Wal Mart or QS or something similar) would be better than the normal changes with a premium oil? Just throwing an idea out there.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
How’s your JLU ? Have you had the oil cooler leak ?
I think the same way. Ease of acquiring is a huge bonus. I need a VW502 oil and I've yet to see a Walmart that didn't carry either Castrol 5w40 or Mobil 1 0w40 so I always use one of those two.
As far as that goes since you're considering 5w30 I don't think there's a definitive difference between the players that you'll find on the shelf there. PUP might not be carried anymore, it isn't at my store, but if you wanted a hint thinner 5w30 the Pennzoil Platinum might be an option. It's at least on the shelf here, but I don't know if that's every Walmart.
M1-EP would fit the bill too. I just don't think it would be possible to make a bad choice. I tend to prefer Mobil 1, Pennzoil, and then Castrol in that order. I rotate between all 3 for different purposes.
It´s doing great! 91k miles and did its 3rd trip to Moab in October. Probably the hardest wheeling it has done, next to a trail in New Hampshire.
No oil leak. I did have to replace sensor seals that were seeping a very light film of oil probably 30k or 40k ago, but it was under warranty. No big deal. But I have been very careful with that filter cap torque, too.
She´s on course for a long life!
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Awesome - keeping mine a while as well - I use a T handle on the filter and nobody else has touched it … No guarantee - but that helps IMO … Just a sand and mud guy - but things get beat up by the Bubba’s with 98” tires - so figure shocks will go first …
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
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