Gm 5.3L L84(Newest Gen) with DFM...Which Dexos Approved 0W-20?

It’s right here in the 2020 Sierra owners manual which is on the net in a searchable format. Back in 2020 the recommendation was Dexos 1 Gen 2 which has been superseded by Gen 3. The OP’s question was what is brand recommended. I would choose a brand that has good internet rebates which for me means Pennzoil and sometimes Mobil. As always you will get input from thickies to disregard the manual and run a 40 grade. It’s the Bitog way. :D

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I was asking for BITOG/Actual owners reviews and opinions, NOT GM's official BS. I am fully aware of what GM recommendations are as is everyone on BITOG so I don't think this response is adding anything to the conversation.
 
This is my general assumption with D1G3,..but figured I would ask if there was an ideal oil brand/series.
Under warranty, for “official” d1G3 license no… once outside of warranty, a board sponsor makes an oil that uses an approved d1G3 add pack, but goes much further as far as base oil quality and “top-up” additives are concerned. If I had a vehicle with lifters like this, I’d go with the better oil and roll the dice on warranty coverage questions.

Oh and to whoever recommended the LS7 cam, do some research on the LS9 cam instead. It idles like a kitten and makes within a few HP of the LS7, but maintains torque MUCH better. A 3200lb Vette may not feel like a dog (but it also had a 427, not a 376!) but the heavy truck will definitely be a dog if you chop 50+ ft-lbs below 3k RPM. The LS9 with wide LSA and small intake timing does a great job keeping that down-low oomph. 👍🏻
 
Ehh. I wasn’t the one who posted “To clarify, a 20 grade is thicker when hot than a 40 grade?” That wasn't what was said nor is it anywhere near the point of this thread.

Also despite anything you may have posted in the past I doubt that was a notion you believe.
You are full of these immature comments. It reeks of someone with a self assigned superiority complex. Pat yourself on the back. Nobody here seems to be impressed, except for you.
 
To clarify, a 20 grade is thicker when hot than a 40 grade?
Where did he say that? He indicated that an xW-20 is thicker at 104f than an xW-40 at operating temperature.

Example:
M1 AFE 0W-20 40C visc: 43.5cSt
M1 FS 0W-40 100C visc: 13.8cSt

Engines simply cannot be as sensitive to viscosity as some claim, this is due to the fact that oils thicken to thousands of cP when we get into low temperatures, where all of these components still need to be lubricated.
 
Where did he say that? He indicated that an xW-20 is thicker at 104f than an xW-40 at operating temperature.

Example:
M1 AFE 0W-20 40C visc: 43.5cSt
M1 FS 0W-40 100C visc: 13.8cSt

Engines simply cannot be as sensitive to viscosity as some claim, this is due to the fact that oils thicken to thousands of cP when we get into low temperatures, where all of these components still need to be lubricated.
“No there are no issues with any of that. People said the same thing about vtec and oil viscosity but it's solenoid controlled, without it it'd activate at startup from the oil being so thick even if it was the best cold pumping 0w-20. At 104f a 20 grade is about 3.5x thicker than a 40 grade at operating temp”

I admit my comprehension skills are lacking but I interpret the statement above to indicate that a 20 grade is 3.5x thicker than a 40 grade at operating temp.

Maybe you can please explain what’s being said.
 
“No there are no issues with any of that. People said the same thing about vtec and oil viscosity but it's solenoid controlled, without it it'd activate at startup from the oil being so thick even if it was the best cold pumping 0w-20. At 104f a 20 grade is about 3.5x thicker than a 40 grade at operating temp”

I admit my comprehension skills are lacking but I interpret the statement above to indicate that a 20 grade is 3.5x thicker than a 40 grade at operating temp.

Maybe you can please explain what’s being said.
The key to properly interpreting the statement is the part I've made larger.

104f is 40C. At 40C, M1 AFE 0W-20 is 43.5cSt.

Operating temperature is around 100C

M1 FS 0W-40 at 100C is 13.8cSt, which is 3.15x thinner than the 0W-20 at 40C.
 
Aren’t we saying the same thing though? 20w thicker that 40w when hot?
No, the xW-20 is thicker at 40C than the xW-40 is at 100C.
Here's a graph, look at where the xW-20 is at 40C compared to the xW-40 at 100C:
Screen Shot 2023-12-18 at 3.27.47 PM.jpg


You can see that at 57C, the 0W-40 is the same viscosity as the 0W-20 at 40C, and at 70C the 0W-20 is the same visc as the 0W-40 is at 90C.
 
So is there any known correlation between AFM/DFM and lifter collapse? Seems that is what many imply. Not sure if I got lucky with my '21 5.3 Silverado which because of the chip shortage at the time, it had the DFM system permanently disabled. However, the lifters themselves are probably the same part as DFM engines.

Got an amazing $50 off invoice and I believe I'd read somewhere I might suffer 1 mpg without the DFM system.
 
Is this what your preferred choice would be with the 5.3L?
If you want the best Dexos rated oil I would go with Valvoline 0W20 Extended Protection. Lots of moly and detergents.

However if price is a consideration you have the Supertech family and the Quaker State family. Quaker State High Mileage is the "best value" in my opinion with the most moly, boron and detergents of that lot

All are Dexos and API SP. I tested all of them and they all tested well. The most moly and detergents can be found in the Valvoline family of products. "Maxlife" products are not Dexos and GM says only Dexos rated oil can be used in their vehicles.

If you want to keep spending then look.at Redline but in any oil analysis you might be hard pressed to find a difference.
 
Here is what I mean by price. I bought enough Quaker State for 2 oil changes and its 40 dollars per change. The only cheaper oil at Walmart is SuperTech at 19 dollars for 5 quarts. So the next price level of oils is $26 to $28 for 5 quarts. The sky is the limit for products like Redline.

Like I said if going by used oil analysis you may not find much of a difference.

20231217_090142.jpg
 
So is there any known correlation between AFM/DFM and lifter collapse? Seems that is what many imply. Not sure if I got lucky with my '21 5.3 Silverado which because of the chip shortage at the time, it had the DFM system permanently disabled. However, the lifters themselves are probably the same part as DFM engines.

Got an amazing $50 off invoice and I believe I'd read somewhere I might suffer 1 mpg without the DFM system.
I bought a ‘22 5.3 Silverado with no chip for fuel management as well - now if I could just disable the auto stop/start for good.
 
GM's cylinder deactivation system is best disabled. Eventually it will become a problem.
 
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