OW-16 vs 0W-20 viscosity specs - does it really matter.

There are many that are variable displacement, and electronically controlled, but the last time we had this conversation on here, the "electronically motor driven" pump wasn't, somebody was misreading something.
Lol correct. The elusive “electronically motor driven” pump. The one that’ll shear off the drive gear if you use anything but 0W-08 or 0W-16 (or whatever grade) because it’s programmed by the ECU specifically for the US market 🙃
 
I don’t see any real world difference between the two. On a dynamometer in a controlled environment lol maybe there would be some real mpg gain. A lot of these new oil pumps are electronically motor driven and variable it’ll do just fine 0w16 or 0w20.
You may be thinking of electric water pumps. My 2018 Camry Dynamic Force engine has one. I don't know exactly how it works...but I do know you can fool the thing to run in "high output mode" to de-air the coolant system by turning off the A/C, putting the heater setting to full cool, and holding the RPMs above 1500 until the fan cycles on twice (I just drained/filled it with new coolant since I'm coming up on 100,000 miles).
 
You may be thinking of electric water pumps. My 2018 Camry Dynamic Force engine has one. I don't know exactly how it works...but I do know you can fool the thing to run in "high output mode" to de-air the coolant system by turning off the A/C, putting the heater setting to full cool, and holding the RPMs above 1500 until the fan cycles on twice (I just drained/filled it with new coolant since I'm coming up on 100,000 miles).
I got that information off YouTube from the the car care nut. I watched a video a while back on him harping over the use of 0w16 and not substituting for 0w20. Either way I don't follow it the real world difference between 16 and a 20Wt is very minimal.
 
I would use 0w16 but very few make one that satisfies my itch. Id probably only run a 16 from Redline HP or @High Performance Lubricants. Seems the Redline 0w16 is quite stellar and destroys the OTC 0w20 / 5w20 oils too. Simply put, no point trying to build up a oil, go up a weight or just use better oil to start with. I cringe 😬 on seeing 0w8 especially in a T-GDi and after Honda Class Action Lawsuit, I wouldn't put a PCMO 0w20 in one at all.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20231125_182122_Drive.jpg
    Screenshot_20231125_182122_Drive.jpg
    129.3 KB · Views: 23
  • Screenshot_20231125_182204_Drive.jpg
    Screenshot_20231125_182204_Drive.jpg
    136.1 KB · Views: 23
I got that information off YouTube from the the car care nut. I watched a video a while back on him harping over the use of 0w16 and not substituting for 0w20. Either way I don't follow it the real world difference between 16 and a 20Wt is very minimal.
Think he said they are electronically controlled, not "electronically motor driven". Many variable volume oil pumps are electronically controlled by the ECU, but they are still mechanically driven.
 
Think he said they are electronically controlled, not "electronically motor driven". Many variable volume oil pumps are electronically controlled by the ECU, but they are still mechanically driven.
So what’s the end story…? the oil pump and engine really doesn’t know the difference or care if you poured in 0w16 or 5w30 lol
 
So what’s the end story…? the oil pump and engine really doesn’t know the difference or care if you poured in 0w16 or 5w30 lol
Basically yes. It's been discussed in a few other threads in detail, and IIRC that same engine is used in other countries where the OM shows a range of recommended oil viscosities other than 0W-16. Then of course, someone will claim that either the pump is different, and/or the ECU is programmed differently in different countries, but I highly doubt that. If the OM recommends a range of viscosity for those other countries, then the pump must be designed and programmed to work with a range of viscosity - and the engine won't care if the viscosity it thicker than a "16 grade", except for a hair less fuel economy. The basic conclusion is the USA "recommends" (not "demands") 0W-16 because of CAFE. Of course the Toyota Car Care Nut guy is going to always recommend what Toyota recommends - he doesn't want grief from Toyota, lol.
 
Basically yes. It's been discussed in a few other threads in detail, and IIRC that same engine is used in other countries where the OM shows a range of recommended oil viscosities other than 0W-16. Then of course, someone will claim that either the pump is different, and/or the ECU is programmed differently in different countries, but I highly doubt that. If the OM recommends a range of viscosity for those other countries, then the pump must be designed and programmed to work with a range of viscosity - and the engine won't care if the viscosity it thicker than a "16 grade", except for a hair less fuel economy. The basic conclusion is the USA "recommends" (not "demands") 0W-16 because of CAFE. Of course the Toyota Car Care Nut guy is going to always recommend what Toyota recommends - he doesn't want grief from Toyota, lol.
Well put.
 
There is minimal difference between 0w16 and 0w20, they are practically interchangeable if you change oil often.

Antidotal 0w16 shears less than 0w20
Yep. Pretty much.

By way of example: PP 0W16 @100 cSt 7.1 and M1 ESP 0W20 @100cSt 7.9.



1701011079168.jpeg


Both are 0W and within J300 range for 16 and 20 so they are not practically interchangeable they are quite literally interchangeable as far the engine is concerned with respect to viscosity. Doesn’t matter what hoops people try to jump through to make their ECU or pump theories work. It just doesn’t make sense. There is just no way that small of a deviation will make a difference.
 
I wish they would sell all of this stuff in 5 qt. jugs. I can't remember the last time I bought single quarts of motor oil.
 
I wish they would sell all of this stuff in 5 qt. jugs. I can't remember the last time I bought single quarts of motor oil.
Yeah. Sometimes you only want or need one though. I used to buy 5 and 1 or 5 and 2 when I was younger and broke as a joke. Pretty much living check to check I needed the extra couple bucks. Also they probably make more profit on individual units. Big/volume is better for top line and small/unit is better for bottom line with most product.
 
I wish they would sell all of this stuff in 5 qt. jugs. I can't remember the last time I bought single quarts of motor oil.
Why do you want this 7.9cst virgin @ 100 in 0w20?... guessing the 2018 Camry.
Many really good 0w20s out there. Folks rave on the web about the (non-crude) Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20.
I think it's in the 8.7cst neighborhood and that's about norm for the xw20s.
 
Last edited:
Why do you want a 7.9cst virgin @ 100 in 0w20?... guessing the 2018 Camry.
How would the average Joe know the difference?

Average Joe DIY Oil Change Guy goes to Walmart and sees Mobil in the proper viscosity is like “yep - good to go.” Not like “hang on second, where is the PDS? What is the flash point and density on this mama jama?”
 
Why do you want this 7.9cst virgin @ 100 in 0w20?... guessing the 2018 Camry.
Many really good 0w20s out there. Folks rave on the web about the (non-crude) Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20.
I think it's in the 8.7cst neighborhood and that's about norm for the xw20s.
I was just commenting on the 1 quart size. My 2018 Camry gets 0W-30 this time of year, and 0W-40 in the Summer months.
 
We are going to run 0w16 in my wife's new rav4 at least for the duration of the warranty period. All of the major brand names are now making a 0w16. Wal mart canada currently is having a black friday sale on mobil1 oil so i stocked up. Have enough now until the next time there is a stupid deal on oil.

This new generation of the dynamic force engines were made specifically for thinner weight oils (so says wikipedia)
In either case i'm going to assume the people who designed this vehicle know what they are doing.
 
This new generation of the dynamic force engines were made specifically for thinner weight oils (so says wikipedia)
In either case i'm going to assume the people who designed this vehicle know what they are doing.
An engine can be constructed to tolerate thinner oils without incurring excessive wear, but no engine is made specifically "for" them. Wikipedia is a poor source for technical understanding. No oil of a higher HT/HS will cause damage or cause abnormal operation unless the winter rating is so inappropriate for the expected starting conditions that it cannot be pumped.

But, the recommended oil will provide acceptable wear protection under most circumstances.
 
What instigated this thread is I am debating dumping the new 0W-16 out of my Toyota and replacing it with 0W-20. The 0W-16 is new. I took the car to the dealer - feel obligated as its still in warranty - and they changed the oil for free - work order and window sticker say 0w-16 which is what the manual calls for.

In reviewing the J300 specs, there is quite a bit of overlap in the spec, and HTHS isn't that far apart?

I also have no idea what they put in - likely the cheapest crap around. However in looking at the M1 Advanced Fuel Economy for the 16 vs 20 weight, there like 7.2 Vs 8.2 KV@100C?

So do I dump it and put in 0w-20?

Side question, if I do - do I change the filter - its a new OEM filter - so I am thinking not on that part.


View attachment 137054
You need bb to read the whole section in The owners manual when it comes to oil. It can say things like if start and stops are frequent, or dust roads use a higher viscosity and more frequent changes. Personally I wouldn’t run 0w16 or 0w20 it’s all because of C.A.F.E. I would find a stout 30 weight and run that, but that’s just me.
 
Back
Top