So what do you recommend for a higher moly oil? There doesn’t seem to be much info about these oils here
I can't recommend a particular oil for you. What I personally would do (and have done) is change the factory oil at a couple hundred miles and accept the lack of moly. I'd use the same oil at 500 miles as I'd use at 5000 miles and at 50,000 miles.
By analogy, consider the old fashioned cam lube paste you used to wipe all over a flat tappet camshaft to assure you don't "wipe a lobe" during break-in. And that was back when oils often had moly in them already. The existing moly level was insufficient, or thought to be-- hence the need for special break in paste lube on the cam.
But how long does that paste lube last on the camshaft? Seconds to perhaps a minute. Cam makers will often furnish instructions saying to use their special moly lube, then run the engine at higher RPM for 20 minutes and then the "break in" is complete. Within that 20minutes, the moly is rapidly washed into the rest of the oil, the effective moly content at the cam lobe is orders of magnitude less, and then the engine lives happily ever after.
The point of this analogy is that break-in follows an exponential decay curve. The engine breaks in VERY fast, and then slow, then slower still. After 5 gallons of fuel burned, most (~60%) break in is done. After 50 gallons of fuel burned, perhaps 85% is done. That last 15% might take 500 gallons more fuel burn.
I can tell you that when we run test cell engines on "endurance testing" the break in takes TWENTY MINUTES. The oil is the serviced, then the engine is run to an abuse condition per the test protocol. Now, these are diesel engines, but these are ring packs and bearings designed to go a million miles with steel pistons. These are not soft and easily broken in parts, yet they are considered run-in after 20 minutes on house Valvoline dino oil (15w-40 PB). The key here though is that this is 20 minutes at full load-- what many people would call "lugging" in a gasoline engine. It's hard to simulate this kind of load in any actual vehicle as you are limited by the constraints of speed limits and public spaces. But some good hard full throttle runs can get close enough.
It's true that a new engine will continue to go several thousand miles before the wear metals stabilize. But the period of time at which the running surfaces are rough enough to potentially seize parts is very short-- a minute or two at most.
Honda frankly doesn't care if you get 200k or 400k miles out of there engine. Rather, if there's is even a 1% chance that the "break in oil" prevents and early life failure when some knucklehead takes a brand new engine to redline immediately after starting it up on a winter day, then they will put that break in oil in every engine they make. The cost of a single engine replacement under warranty buys a LOT of oil additive.
As I've said before, the OEM's recommendation are based on the OEM's self interest in preventing warranty claims and lawsuits. They are NOT based on making your engine last as long as possible. The OEM would generally be happy to sell you a new car when your engine exploded 3 miles after the warranty lapsed. An engine that lasts 110k when the warranty is 100k is 10k miles of wasted life.
People put WAY too much stock in the "manufacturers recommendations" when they don't understand that most "manufacturers recommendations" are just pass through government mandates.
Wait until the first high-mile examples of cars running these GF6B oils 0w8 and 0w16 come in and you'll see just how smart the government is as mandating oil viscosities (via absurd CAFE requirements).