If you could post a picture of the possibly replaced T-belt, that would be a great aid to everyone.
A good T-belt job almost always includes the serpentine belt on these. What does the serpentine look like?
As I mentioned before, unless you are ABSOLUTELY sure the T-belt has been replaced, do not take ANY chances. The risk is just too great.
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Just a few other observations (not that you should do any until the T-belt is done):
Anybody even suggesting belt dressings on this is a hack and should be immediately kept away from the car. This is not a '61 Dodge with V-belts.
Yellow coolant? Not good. Use only the genuine blue Volvo coolant in these, which is best for the engine metallurgy and water pump. It is not that expensive. Flush and refill with 50/50 distilled water. Check to make sure you have the updated expansion tank cap, or you will have a leak there.
When replacing the T-stat on these, you will need an extra-long long torx bit for the one bolt. The tool is about $30. If you try to hack it with a standard bit, you will bugger it up and make a BIG MESS. You should also replace the temp sender at the same time, it is in the same housing.
The upper rad hose doesn't normally go on these, but the lower one and the heater lines sometimes do. When a comprehensive cooling system service is done, it is sometimes a good idea to replace them all once the car is past a certain age. Also check the coolant lines to the turbo. Mice like to nibble on those.
If and when you do the brakes, do them right and do them COMPLETELY as pointed out above. Half-way jobs don't last on these, and wind up costing much more in the end. Again, I would take a very close look at the calipers on these, especially at that mileage.
The switches on the rear doors sometimes just get dirty from lack of use and stop conducting a circuit. Exercise them a bit, and failing that, you may need to see if they can accommodate a shot of contact cleaner (that may require opening up the door panel).
A good T-belt job almost always includes the serpentine belt on these. What does the serpentine look like?
As I mentioned before, unless you are ABSOLUTELY sure the T-belt has been replaced, do not take ANY chances. The risk is just too great.
_______________________________
Just a few other observations (not that you should do any until the T-belt is done):
Anybody even suggesting belt dressings on this is a hack and should be immediately kept away from the car. This is not a '61 Dodge with V-belts.
Yellow coolant? Not good. Use only the genuine blue Volvo coolant in these, which is best for the engine metallurgy and water pump. It is not that expensive. Flush and refill with 50/50 distilled water. Check to make sure you have the updated expansion tank cap, or you will have a leak there.
When replacing the T-stat on these, you will need an extra-long long torx bit for the one bolt. The tool is about $30. If you try to hack it with a standard bit, you will bugger it up and make a BIG MESS. You should also replace the temp sender at the same time, it is in the same housing.
The upper rad hose doesn't normally go on these, but the lower one and the heater lines sometimes do. When a comprehensive cooling system service is done, it is sometimes a good idea to replace them all once the car is past a certain age. Also check the coolant lines to the turbo. Mice like to nibble on those.
If and when you do the brakes, do them right and do them COMPLETELY as pointed out above. Half-way jobs don't last on these, and wind up costing much more in the end. Again, I would take a very close look at the calipers on these, especially at that mileage.
The switches on the rear doors sometimes just get dirty from lack of use and stop conducting a circuit. Exercise them a bit, and failing that, you may need to see if they can accommodate a shot of contact cleaner (that may require opening up the door panel).