ABS actuator cycling as Maintenance?

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Jun 8, 2022
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A while back I hit a pothole while braking and my ABS came on. After the ABS and slip light stayed on indicating a code. I purchased a foxwell ABS 2 way scan tool and cleared the codes but they came back on immediately. I then used the scan tool to cycle each actuator manually a couple times, cleared the code and it stayed off. I expected it to come back but it never has.

I theorize either a relay or the ABS valve itself was stuck. I almost never have ABS come on. No snow or ice here, and I drive accordingly when it rains. So maybe sticking from lack of use? Of course if anything fails its replace the entire ABS actuator for $1500 or so.

I am wondering if I should use my tool to cycle the valves every once in a while? Is there any downside to doing this?
 
No idea, but I know I make mine cycle every winter. Solely for the purpose of keeping it reliable, and not because I was either having fun or (more likely) in need of ABS.

I can't see a downside to commanding the ABS to cycle, I mean, unless if you are doing that once a day, just how is it going to wear out prematurely? and wouldn't it be better to have it die in your driveway than to have it quit at the moment you need it most?
 
It is not unusual for the ABS to kick in if the wheel falls into a pothole while braking.
It has happened to me few times over the years.
I presume the cycling run is not dissimilar to activating the ABS on snow and ice.

Incidently keep your brake fluid change on scheduel and I recommend switching to DOT 5.1
 
No rule of thumb for any of this stuff, but any mechanical component I have that can be expected to sit unused for an extended period of time I try to use it once every few months. This applies to: ABS actuators, 4WD actuators, A/C compressors. Power windows and sunroofs don't really count other than I try to keep the seals clean and lubricated. Anything else I'm missing?
 
Before the ABS Modulator (pistons and solenoids) developed an internal leak, I used to engage the ABS on the Legend regularly - ~35MPH on a dirt road/shoulder and hit the brakes hard. I can't recall how since I disabled the system since the leak started (ABS pump runs every 30-60 seconds).

I have two modulators that came out of wrecked Legends that I planned to use and test mules to see if off-the-shelf o-rings and cup seals would work for a rebuild. I've yet to get around to it.

Odd thing is the European FSM contains dis- and re- assembly instructions; the NA FSM doesn't. No internal parts are available from Honda.
 
Is this a BMW? The reason I ask is I diy’d the 5DF0 and 5DF1 codes. But that’s not due to a pothole, rather factory defect. What are the codes….
 
Is this a BMW? The reason I ask is I diy’d the 5DF0 and 5DF1 codes. But that’s not due to a pothole, rather factory defect. What are the codes….
The 2011 Frontier in my sig.

Codes - C1165 and C1140 - in April - haven't returned.

C1140 ACTUATOR RLY ABS actuator relay or circuit malfunction.

C1165 CV2
VDC switch-over solenoid valve (CV2) on the primary
side is open circuit or shorted, or the control line is open
or shorted to the power supply or the ground.
 
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It is a good idea to cycle the ABS either by a few hard stops on a slippery surface or a scan tool. The main reason is to get brake fluid moving thru it. Now granted most ABS systems do self test so your results may vary. Even better maintenance is to flush the fluid (I mean a full flush where you cycle the ABS with a scan tool to get all the fluid in the module purged as well) every few years.
 
Of course, anything that moves, should be moved every once in a while. However many vehicles cycle the ABS on every startup so if yours does, you may just be buying time till it fails.
 
It is a good idea to cycle the ABS either by a few hard stops on a slippery surface or a scan tool. The main reason is to get brake fluid moving thru it. Now granted most ABS systems do self test so your results may vary. Even better maintenance is to flush the fluid (I mean a full flush where you cycle the ABS with a scan tool to get all the fluid in the module purged as well) every few years.
BMWs position is that actuating ABS on the road will never get air out of the ABS DSC Hydro pump, and that the ABL bleed (using the computer through all 4 calipers one at a time) must be done any time a repair is performed on the braking system.

Imagine if in fact stopping hard does work, and dealers don’t even do the ABL bleed but charge the labor anyway. Yikes
 
BMWs position is that actuating ABS on the road will never get air out of the ABS DSC Hydro pump, and that the ABL bleed (using the computer through all 4 calipers one at a time) must be done any time a repair is performed on the braking system.

Imagine if in fact stopping hard does work, and dealers don’t even do the ABL bleed but charge the labor anyway. Yikes
That is a fact. Any ABS module, to properly bleed any air out needs to be activated with a proper bi-directional scan tool with bleeders open. The original post was about possible benefits of cycling the ABS as far as making it last longer not about actually bleeding it. When you activate ABS at a hard stop some fluid does move into/out of the ABS so keeping somewhat fresh fluid going thru it I think is a little benefit. Of course nothing beats a full flush every few years to keep everything good.
 
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