GT's Running Volvo thread. The 00 XC

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
This board will be the first to know when it is out of commission

Let's hope it's not out of commission due to a broken t-belt.

Agreed, I keep forgetting this is an interference engine. If the t-belt breaks it might be best to just walk away, or call the "we buy junk cars" guys if they have those up there. Any money you put in the car before the t-belt is a gamble since it could break the next time you start it.

 

[GearheadTool]

Yes. I have one supremely helpful member sort of throw his hands up in frustration thatI did not get it done already.

I can tell that person that it WILL get done, as money will be rolling in in in November, more than October.

The T-belt will get done, and I should be back on good terms (with everyone) once it does!

 

[GearheadTool]

Also. Considering buying a jack and taaking off/extensively cleaning what I cann the right rear brake/wheel.. Some catching noises coming from it. I think/hope cleaning it up with BPC will help!

CT Tomorrow, Western Mass this week. "K", Maine.. Will be serviced by then.

(And I know some do not want to hear this, but I will say it anyways: The timing belt money will be coming in shorter time than longer. In the meantime, this is what it is. Thanks!)

I will report back to that helpful member when Sam does T-belt and we probably pass inspection. Aside from that.. Need advice on all else!

 

[Quattro Pete]

Weren't you doing an oil change last week? What happened with that? What oil and filter did you end up using? Just curious.

Sorry, I can't keep track of all your threads. There are just too many.

 

[GearheadTool]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Weren't you doing an oil change last week? What happened with that? What oil and filter did you end up using? Just curious.

Sorry, I can't keep track of all your threads. There are just too many.


I understand this. This is why I tried to exrapolate the good info from some of the earlier, link to one that was super informative by Volhead, and make the running thread.

I used a Mann filter and Supertech 5W-30, since I will probably get (buy) the ARX I PMed about. I just never updated.

We will get like $1000 to $2000 at once, then take it to Sam for T-bet.

What I am doing RIGHT NOW is taking tire off, to clean off brake. Is catching. Right rear. Supertech Brake Cleaner, a jack, and a lug wrench.

 

[DuckRyder]

XC's (all Volvo?) have shoes inside the rear disk as well (for the e-brake) be sure to check those as well.

I wonder if the money for a jack and lug wrench might be better spend on having this Sam person do a comprehensive inspection. Seems like on thing after another and you need to figure out where you really stand with this car.

 

[eljefino]

The scissor jack that comes with the car is fine for brake work. Just don't stick your carcass under any part of the car. I like the little frame rail clips on volvii. If you throw your loose tire somewhere under the corner it'll have something to fall back on.

You are on the right track with brakes, they respond well to disassembly and reassembly. If you have a pad swollen from rust so it doesn't move that well you'll know it and you can give it a kiss with a grinder to bring it back in spec. Similarly non sliding pins, if you have themn, will be evident. Oddly my 940 has dual piston rears without floating pins and single piston fronts wih them.

 

[GearheadTool]

I met a Nissan mechanic in the parking lot and diagnosed "low pads and rotors." Explained and showed me how they could be warped, etc.. How to check.. How it could be throwing ABS sensor code.. etc etc.. I have pics. In a week, I am able to perhaps spend the $100 or so labor to install both pads and rotors we buy. I am thinking Advance "top of the line."

When the money comes in, he knows how to "visually inspect" the T-belt too by removing the timing bely cober, and the "8" (looks like) Torx bolts guarding it. May be possible to get that, done, too...

Sam vs 10 year Nissam mechanic. I had a good hour-long chat with the guy, and we agreed that it is a good car, just needs some things taken care of.

 

[Volvohead]

Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
I am thinking Advance "top of the line."


. . . wasting keystrokes perhaps . . .

Unless they're below minimum, you're better off thinking this, after the T-belt job:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-exec/c...1464/by_year/50

JMO, but Advance is not the place to buy parts for these unless you like buying things twice.

P.S.: If that [censored] cargo strap battery "hold down" snaps, you'll have battery all over the engine compartment.

Did you ever go to the Volvo dealer and spurge for the $5 battery clip as recommended? Didn't think so.

 

[Volvohead]

I'm not a big fan of the on-board jacks on these later models.

Made much cheaper than the older ones.

Barely useful for a road tire change. I would NOT recommend one for any meaningful repair. Too many stories of them failing.

To jack one up for service, best to use a floor jack, with jack stands, at the designated jacking points, only. Jack the wrong spot, and you oilcan the body on these -- a big-time mess.

 

[GearheadTool]

We need new brake pads and rotors. Cutting on passenger side. Knocking rust/dirt out and spraying this didnt do it.

This is a close-up of the problem wheel.

Going to Harbor Freight, returning this stupid little folding wrench.

 

[GearheadTool]

So. The brakes are a go, soon. Did not forget about the T-belt.

Any other tips, or questions? For now?

 

[DuckRyder]

Originally Posted By: Volvohead
...JMO, but Advance is not the place to buy parts for these unless you like buying things twice.

THIS.

Buy your parts from one of the many online suppliers that you've been given links to.

 

[antiqueshell]

Originally Posted By: Volvohead


P.S.: If that [censored] cargo strap battery "hold down" snaps, you'll have battery all over the engine compartment.

Did you ever go to the Volvo dealer and spurge for the $5 battery clip as recommended? Didn't think so.


Yet, he'll spend money on snake oil like ARX or whatever it is called. Save your breath Volvohead, this guy is a "rebel" and going to go down in flames doing it "his way".

 

[bigjl]

Wow, I wouldn't consider those brakes to be even remotely good enough for the car to be in daily use.

If that is indicative of the rest of the cars mechanical condition I would be worried.

Dealer that sold that to you should be ashamed of himself.

That is a death trap not a work in progress.

 

[JOD]

http://www.discountbrakes.com/

This site was linked by another member here in an old thread. When you include shipping, they have the best pricing I've seen. The have German-made Zimmerman rotors for your car for $40.00 a piece for the rear. I'd go with the Centric Ceramic pads, which are $30.00 a set. These cars eat rear brakes, and these will last the longest. You can get fancier, but I think this is your best bet on a limited budget, and if you plan on keeping the car I wouldn't go cheaper; otherwise you'll be re-doing it in a year.

I'd do the brakes and buy some gear oil to change the bevel gear/differentials as your next priority, along with the t-belt of course. You can do the driveline fluids with a simple Harbor Freight hand pump.

 

[Vikas]

Why is only half of the rotor being used by the brakes? Looks like somebody put the wrong pads on it.

 

[bigjl]

Looks like a partially seized brake caliper to me. I don't think the difference between the clean and the rusty is not distinct enough to be the wrong pads.


The brake cleaner is just that cleaner.

That caliper needs stripping and clean up properly, then putting back together with some copper grease.


That looks like there has been poor maintenance on this vehicle for a long period of time.

There is a saying in the UK which may apply.


You can't polish a t@rd. The missing letter is U.

 

[eljefino]

I've seen brakes like that before. IMO it happens when a car sits then for whatever reason the rust stops getting scraped off. If the rust gets deep enough from sitting long enough the pads can't scrape it off and that rust starts abrading the pads.

Could be sticky caliper hardware, could be pads getting jammed/ cocked in whatever holds them. Could have just been sitting too long.

Pads, rotors, and making sure everything slides sets them right, more often than not.

 

[GearheadTool]

Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
Originally Posted By: Volvohead


P.S.: If that [censored] cargo strap battery "hold down" snaps, you'll have battery all over the engine compartment.

Did you ever go to the Volvo dealer and spurge for the $5 battery clip as recommended? Didn't think so.


Yet, he'll spend money on snake oil like ARX or whatever it is called. Save your breath Volvohead, this guy is a "rebel" and going to go down in flames doing it "his way".


The bolded statement is WRONG!

Timeframe:

1. Brakes: End of the week, most likely.
2. T-belt: Vicinity of Kennebunkport, ME trip.

All is well here.. Not like I am NOT going to do these things. No keystrokes wasted.

And Volvohead is right: Use FCP Groton parts.