CRV ABS and low voltage?
- Thread starter supton
- Start date
Took a look, as I have the battery out, gave it a wiggle, it seems ok? did not fall apart.
The strap to the fender appears ok.
Might just clean the terminals and see what it does, they are a bit cruddy. It's been cranking fine, just seems to randomly have a low battery combined with "let's not charge for a bit". I do have have that ELD on the shelf, not sure that means I should swap it?
Fixed.
I kid... I prefer to use Wago lever nuts these days.
Jokes aside, I think I figured it out--when I did the struts, none of this sensor wiring snapped back securely (or at all), so I.. ignored it. Somehow it got snagged and ripped. It's a bit shorter now, so it doesn't fit properly; I should probably cost out what a replacement is, and replace it--or pull off so I can go to the bench, lengthen by the missing 2 inches or so. Lap soldered, used a bit of heatshrink tubing on each wire, then realized I cut the length of tubing to go over it all too short. Go figure... Gobbed on some liquid electrical tape. Only temporary... unless if it works.
I kid... I prefer to use Wago lever nuts these days.
Jokes aside, I think I figured it out--when I did the struts, none of this sensor wiring snapped back securely (or at all), so I.. ignored it. Somehow it got snagged and ripped. It's a bit shorter now, so it doesn't fit properly; I should probably cost out what a replacement is, and replace it--or pull off so I can go to the bench, lengthen by the missing 2 inches or so. Lap soldered, used a bit of heatshrink tubing on each wire, then realized I cut the length of tubing to go over it all too short. Go figure... Gobbed on some liquid electrical tape. Only temporary... unless if it works.
Needs corrosion cleaned off all, and neither wire nuts nor wago blocks are suitable for exterior wiring. Use a sealing/shrink crimp or solder (only if you're good at it) and heatshrink tubing.
I bought these 1/4" stainless brushes for when I clean the bolt holes. It fits in my drill and dremel. I also have "chased" then with the correct tap. My sons Forte that fender ground bolt was so rusted it snapped trying to remove to replace corroded ground strap. Had to drill and re-tap it.
All those contact points get cleaned to bare metal and a light coat of Kopr Shield to make a better connection and prevent more corrosion and rusted bolts.
All those contact points get cleaned to bare metal and a light coat of Kopr Shield to make a better connection and prevent more corrosion and rusted bolts.
They're not expensive. Not worth your time and materials trying to patch up the broken one.
Still having wonky electrical issues. Apparently the battery light was on, went out while driving, came back at the next light. Taking off from there, it could not power headlights—I guess it all browned out? but after sitting for a bit, it was 100% fine for the drive home.
Have an ELD on the shelf but wonder if I should order the gnd wire from rock—it looked fine but I didn’t dare remove it.
Have an ELD on the shelf but wonder if I should order the gnd wire from rock—it looked fine but I didn’t dare remove it.
Can you monitor the voltage with a gauge/meter in real-time as you are driving? I experienced similar sporadic symptoms and crazy voltage spikes and drops (10 - 16 volts) in a 2002 Honda CR-V several years ago when the alternator was dying. Replaced the alternator with a re-manufactured unit and all was well when I sold it 6 years later.
Not a bad idea. I could cobble something together for that before I fire up the parts cannon.
So I let it sit for almost a day; it wasn't cold but hooked up the Fluke 179 for min/max on start. Was sitting around 12.6V unstarted, dropped to 10V during cranking, 14.6 at cold idle. I grabbed the wiring and shook; at one point it dropped to 12.4V? that was odd but I could not make it replicate either, no matter what I did with the wiring. Son took it for a spin and it was fine today, he thinks it has to be stone cold and sitting for more than a day.
ABS light is still off, we'll see how long that repair lasts. $50 or $80 for a new sensor off rock, not too bad I guess.
ABS light is still off, we'll see how long that repair lasts. $50 or $80 for a new sensor off rock, not too bad I guess.
Warm today, 45F, sitting a couple days, 12.44V. Started and dropped to 10.16V on cranking, but sat at 11.4V(?) while idling. Goosed the throttle, that got voltage up to 12.4, but then it would drop. The engine sounded like it was working hard when it tried to cycle the alternator? but it could not get to 14V. It would try to raise the voltage, idle would drop, then it'd give up. Rev'd it a couple of times, like 3k+, and it finally decided to do its job and sit at 14.6V.
Did not think to turn the lights on. Was on defrost and despite a cold engine, it did elect to turn the cooling fan on at one point? I turned the HVAC fan off and that turned the cooling fan off. Probably correct operation, just odd.
Did not think to turn the lights on. Was on defrost and despite a cold engine, it did elect to turn the cooling fan on at one point? I turned the HVAC fan off and that turned the cooling fan off. Probably correct operation, just odd.
