Worst 3 synthetic oils based on testing

[Johnny2Bad]

Originally Posted By: MONKEYMAN
Originally Posted By: gallydif

Com’n guys where are your bedside manners.


I agree.

We all start somewhere.

Before BITOG I was using Dura Lube with my Splitefire spark plugs cause the guy on TV said they were gooood.

Splitfire plug wires *are* good. They perform just as well as the cheapest jobber set at your local parts store. Not better, though.

 

[burla]

One mans trash is another mans treasure, low additives satisfy low ash and LSPI friendly formulas, and since older engines are generally incredibly forgiving on oil formulations, most modern oils will likely follow suit. If you have an older vehicle you might opt for a different oil, but then again m1 has a entire host of oils to choose from. When the latest spec finally drops, it will likely resemble m1's formula. M1 was far ahead of the field and began working on this like 6 years ago or better. I think m1 is great stuff, certainly a great company, but I don't prefer their formula for older v8's. As for anything modern, it is a great choice, and I doubt you will find an otc oil that performs much better in the cold. I will say with modern oils there is a better argument for high mileage oils, as you can see (pdf) by m1 product guide, there is a formula for everyone, including your internet expert. If you want more additives, they certainly accommodate that. The difference is many companies aren't accommodating the other end of the spectrum, having low additives for modern engines that need that. good day

 

[bora350]

This was the worst "performance test" I've ever seen. Adding up VOA analysis of PPM and correlating that to wear is ridiculous. A $20 test that glances at an oil cannot reverse engineer the formulation. Not to mention that concentrations of additives can vary between batches of the same product, but there is no reason to believe that higher PPM of a anti wear additive equals more protection.

He's not accounting for quality differences in additives, Likely diminishing effects as concentration increases, and synergistic qualities of the total wear package.

The only quantifiable way to tell an oil's quality is to look at the minimum required specifications of API SN, or ACEA. From a business standpoint that is probably what you are getting and not much more.

Nobody on YouTube or likely this forum can run real-world testing under controlled conditions and say that one oil leads to less wear in the long run. Most gasoline engines are by nature not designed to go 1,000,000 miles. Oil will not change that.

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Lmao. Your one and only other post is essentially the same question. Did you not get the answer you wanted there or are you only here to paste worthless “testing” results to stir the pot and be a troll?


Second that … strange how many new members start with internet garbage

Not going to click that link …

 

[MONKEYMAN]

Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
Originally Posted By: MONKEYMAN
Originally Posted By: gallydif

Com’n guys where are your bedside manners.


I agree.

We all start somewhere.

Before BITOG I was using Dura Lube with my Splitefire spark plugs cause the guy on TV said they were gooood.

Splitfire plug wires *are* good. They perform just as well as the cheapest jobber set at your local parts store. Not better, though.



I used Dura Lube, Splitfire plugs and wires on a brand new 94 B2300 Mazda (Ford) pick-up. Could not deal with the 98 hp and those things did seem to help. That was back before I had internet and my knowledge came from Info Commercials which are always true. Just like anything you see on YouTube is always true.

 

[Kira]

My comment/question has nothing to do with the "topic".

Is it as possible for a YouTube video to be a Trojan Horse carrying malware/spyware as much as anything else you open?

 

[CourierDriver]

all answers are not the result of normal people, but they could be...

 

[Vern_in_IL]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Lmao. Your one and only other post is essentially the same question. Did you not get the answer you wanted there or are you only here to paste worthless “testing” results to stir the pot and be a troll?


You are a creeper.

 

[dave1251]

I am not a fan of Mobil One. Being said it has been and still is the measuring stick for synthetic PCMO'S.

 

[marine65]

I use a Fram ultra filter and what ever full synthetic is the cheapest i can find.
And no i dont use Billy Bobs synthetic,only a name brand of course.

 

[danez_yoda]

The one thing I do agree with is that if a cheaper oil meets API SN and others specifications that my truck requires and is lower priced... its "better".

We are in a lucky time with oil. Walk into the oil isle, close your eyes and if you grab a jug that is in the recommended weight range and your golden. with regular OCI your engine will outlast your desire to keep the car.

 

[fdcg27]

Doing what amounts to a meta survey and then trying to use simple arithmetic to decide which oil is best and which worst is a fool's errand.
The metallic add treats of most oils are available in the TDS/PDS documents of most manufacturers and almost any oil you've ever heard of has had a PQIA VOA, which will give the metallic add pack along with other useful information, like cold performance and volatility.
Predictably, the cheaper oils tend to brush the upper limits of API SN for both cold performance for the grade and volatility while the better ones show superior cold performance as well as lower volatility.
Both W end performance and low NOACK are strong indications of a basestock blend containing a large proportion of Grp IV/V and relatively less Grp III, as is the case for the M1 OWs.
I guess what I'm trying to say is that among API SN oils, all have very similar metallic add packs with moly being the only open ended component. We do have a member here who had a career in oil blending who has written more than once that everything moly has to offer can be had at the very low treat rates we see in most current PCMOs and that the mega doses of moly seen in some oils are there in a perhaps fruitless pursuit of fuel efficiency.
Finally, with any modern engine, wear is probably the last thing anyone need worry about. Ring sticking due to continued use of high NOACK oil is probably of greater concern.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: 4WD
Second that … strange how many new members start with internet garbage

And come here to "educate" us with something neither we nor the oil companies are aware of.

Originally Posted By: Kira
Is it as possible for a YouTube video to be a Trojan Horse carrying malware/spyware as much as anything else you open?

The biggest danger is for the video to fill your head with bad wiring.

 

[Dak27]

It would be huge news if M-1 was truly a "bad" synthetic. In my mind, and in my experience it's an excellent product. As is Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge, Valvoline SynPower, etc, etc. In my Semi Truck, I switched from Delo 400 SDE to Phillips 66 Guardol ECT, Because my local Phillips Distributor sells it to me at a cheaper price per gallon than Walmart charges per gallon for Delvac Super 1300, Delo 400, or Rotella T4. All of these oils, including Guardol ECT, meet Detroit Diesel's 93K222 specs, so I'm going with the lowest priced HDEO made by a major company.

I use Mobil 1 HM in my '97 Ford F-250HD 4X4 Pickup with a 460, but I will be switching to Phillips 66 Guardol ECT 10W30, once my M-1 HM stash is used up. Going from a full synthetic to a semi-synthetic doesn't worry me in the least in my 460. I've used practically every name brand you could think of in it, conventional, semi-synthetic, and full synthetic, and other than a tiny leak in my rear main seal, it uses zero oil between changes.

I use Pennzoil Platinum 5W20 in my wife's Dodge Journey, but my Phillips Distributor offers Kendall GT-1 full synthetic 5W20 at a cheaper price. Both oils meet Chrysler's MS-6395 specs.

And I believe the same is true with conventional motor oils; I look first at the specs/approvals. If it meets the engine manufacturer's specs, I'll buy the lowest priced one.

The reason I feel good about doing this is I don't extend the drains in my cars or my pickup, and I typically don't extend the drains in my Semi Truck by a huge amount.

I do choose to use synthetics in my wife's Journey, and my daughter's Sentra,-which gets M-1, because both of these ladies have lead foots, and that concerns me during our cold winters. I figure synthetic will circulate a little faster on cold mornings.

Just my two cents.

 

[raburn2906]

Mobil

 

[wemay]

I wonder if the M1 used in this test had the aluminum foil seal tampered with...

 

[raburn2906]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: alarmguy
I dont need to watch the video. All synthetics and all conventionals are the same, doesnt matter if it is Walmart Super Tech or Mobile 1.
They all meet the same API requirements and there is absolutely no way to prove one better when it comes to wear.

There most certainly is.
Absolutely!

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: Kira
My comment/question has nothing to do with the "topic".

Is it as possible for a YouTube video to be a Trojan Horse carrying malware/spyware as much as anything else you open?


I doubt it ... YouTube probably checks all links, etc in uploaded videos.

 

[ZeeOSix]

So basically, the guy in the video (MACTFORDEDGE YouTube channel) does a lot of virgin oil analysis and compared the key formulation ingredients.

Looking at if from that viewpoint, what makes an oil stand out more in terms of the key ingredients? He's looking at all the "anti-wear" ingredient levels to rank them in terms of anti-wear protection. I don't see where that wouldn't give decent information. How else could you compare virgin oil formulations?

 

[dnewton3]

MacT is actually just the YT manifestation of the typical BITOG attitude towards lubricants.

He cares far more about what is, or isn't, in the bottle than what he really should care about; how does it perform in the crankcase and produce UOA data?

This is not a new conversation, nor a new topic.

My advice is to not worry about what's in the bottle; focus on what comes out of the crankcase.