Won the bid, not sure if I will be awarded the 1979 YAMAHA XS1100

[GON]

So did you ever do the BB shake?

No, I thought I had the tank clean and didn't need to do the bbs. I was wrong. Spent this afternoon shaking fuel and draining fuel, and measuring the amount of debris coming out of the tank. Its clean now- not perfect, but acceptable.

 

[AndyB]

I would etch and coat the tank with a liner. The fine rust that will be present will always cause problems with the carbs even if you run filters.

 

[GON]

I would etch and coat the tank with a liner. The fine rust that will be present will always cause problems with the carbs even if you run filters.

Likely moving towards a new tank. There happens to be one on Ebay. My tank has raised letters, this tank has stickers, but if in fact it is the same tank, a brand new tank may be the most cost effective move.

Learning a lot from this bike, especially the effects of having fuel sit in a tank for an extended time and the major damage it can cause.

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[drtyler]

what’s wrong with using por15 fuel tank coating, or one of the similar products?

I cleaned and coated a rusty tank about 20 years ago.
It still looks good now.

First used small gravel/rocks with water to get the loose rust (Pablo’s bb shake would do the same for you rich folks). Then followed with muriatic acid.
It doesn’t take long. Evaporust works as well, but does take longer. Then rinse with water and baking soda. Then the coating.

None of this is particularly expensive, certainly not $500.

 

[Pablo]

I told him this awhile back. Gon is stubborn

 

[GON]

what’s wrong with using por15 fuel tank coating, or one of the similar products?

I cleaned and coated a rusty tank about 20 years ago.
It still looks good now.

First used small gravel/rocks with water to get the loose rust (Pablo’s bb shake would do the same for you rich folks). Then followed with muriatic acid.
It doesn’t take long. Evaporust works as well, but does take longer. Then rinse with water and baking soda. Then the coating.

None of this is particularly expensive, certainly not $500.

After reading numerous reviews on sealing the tank, seems sometimes the sealer doesn't last, and one then has a different situation to address. I have about eight hours into the tank, and likely $150 in materials, and fuel (both to clean the tank and runs to get materials).

Yesterday afternoon I spent about four hours flushing the tank with fuel, filtering the fuel, and starting over again. Significant reduction in sentiment coming from the tank.

Don't know which route I will go, but the brand new tank seems like a sure thing.........

 

[Pablo]

Get some clean hardware or BBs and shake. There is junk you can’t see

 

[drtyler]

After reading numerous reviews on sealing the tank, seems sometimes the sealer doesn't last, and one then has a different situation to address. I have about eight hours into the tank, and likely $150 in materials, and fuel (both to clean the tank and runs to get materials).

Yesterday afternoon I spent about four hours flushing the tank with fuel, filtering the fuel, and starting over again. Significant reduction in sentiment coming from the tank.

Don't know which route I will go, but the brand new tank seems like a sure thing.........

20 years isn’t lasting?

New tanks are not sure things either. Fit can be poor, and they too can rust. Thats why coating is important, at least to me.

 

[KrisZ]

With these old classics, you cannot get into the mindset of just replacing parts. In this case you’re lucky there is a brand new tank available, in most cases it is not. And the “new” tank may have been stored improperly or may not be new at all.
Or if it’s aftermarket, may not fit properly.

In my experience with these old machines, it’s best to try and save the original parts. It’s not possible sometimes, but your tank looks like it can be saved no problem.

 

[JWC86]

With these old classics, you cannot get into the mindset of just replacing parts. In this case you’re lucky there is a brand new tank available, in most cases it is not. And the “new” tank may have been stored improperly or may not be new at all.
Or if it’s aftermarket, may not fit properly.

In my experience with these old machines, it’s best to try and save the original parts. It’s not possible sometimes, but your tank looks like it can be saved no problem.

I agree with Kris on this. You have already done most of the clean up. I would also suggest like the others to use some media and slosh it around in the tank for 5-10min. Then a good rinse, assess and coating from there if necessary, probably not necessary but if so the coatings work well when the directions are followed.

 

[GON]

Replaced the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the mid line filters, and replaced the mid line filters also. Decided not to replace the lines past the filter to the carbs at this time, as I would need to pull the carbs. Put two gallons on 91 octane in the tank. After some cranking, see started up. I soon noticed fuel steadily hitting the ground, mid bike.

Turned off the fuel pet-cocks, and the fuel leak slowed/ stopped. A visual check showed fuel outside of the mid line fuel filters. I thought the issue was the old fuel line going to the carb expanded to much from the old fuel filter, so I pulled the lines, cut the stretched out fuel line, used stronger clamps to secure the fuel filters to the fuel lines.

Started her up again, she ran, but fuel streaming to the ground again. Shut the bike down, and found where the leak was coming from. The air filter box, which is directly above the mid line fuel filters. Guess is fuel from the carbs is going into the air filter assembly. Pulled the air filter cover for the first time, and saw the only thing rigged/ missing from OEM on the bike. No air filter. This was surprising as everything else on the bike is "dress right dress". I wondered if someone pulled the air filter after the bike was sitting to try and start the bike- maybe spray some starting fluid in the carbs.

Next step is to pull the carbs and see why fuel is going into both the intake, and the air filter box.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Next step is to pull the carbs and see why fuel is going into both the intake, and the air filter box.

Could be stuck or misadjusted floats, and/or bad float valves. Did you have the carbs open?

 

[97K15004WD]

Might be way off base here, but maybe possible air reversion flow? On my oil dirt bike (was a two-stroke though), the fuel would blow back into the air box due to reverse air flow. The filter caught this "excess" and it was brought back into the air stream at higher RPM.

If yours is a four stroke, could be the cam timing causing this reverse flow (at low rpm) and since there is no air filter, the "excess" is pooling and dripping out?

 

[KrisZ]

Might be way off base here, but maybe possible air reversion flow? On my oil dirt bike (was a two-stroke though), the fuel would blow back into the air box due to reverse air flow. The filter caught this "excess" and it was brought back into the air stream at higher RPM.

If yours is a four stroke, could be the cam timing causing this reverse flow (at low rpm) and since there is no air filter, the "excess" is pooling and dripping out?

It's not that deep. GON bought an old bike that sat for years. He though he could get away with a mechanic in a can, but these carbs need to be taken off, properly cleaned/adjusted and everything will work as it should.

 

[GON]

. He though he could get away with a mechanic in a can,

Not holistically reflective on what is going on. Simply working to see what functions and what doesn't on the bike. An assessment is likely a match for what is being done. Would not be fun to rebuild the carbs, fuel tank, etc- only to find out the bike was sat for 30 years because of a blown engine. Other items I have done include filling the dried out front brake master cylinder. I ordered front and rear master cylinder rebuild kits, but that didn't stop me from 'wasting" a few ounces of brake fluid to access the brakes.


The question I am trying to grasp on the carbs is if to rebuild/ refurb the existing carbs, or buy the replacement
"2 in 1" carbs. I actually read an article on a guy successfully installing fuel injection on this bike, but the work was really deep and I don't want to become a fuel injection expert- have a lot of other priorities.

The two biggest things I have learned so far from this bike have nothing to do with the motorcycle. First, my youngest Son's 2006 Acura MDX has been in indoor storage for a years- huge mistake not to fill the tank fully before storage and add Stabil. The second is my 1980 El Camino stored on my late Great Grandfather's farm since on or about 1986 in a barn, and hasn't moved since storage. I knew the mice would have gotten to the electric/ wires, and the rubber tubes likely rotted through the vehicle. What I know is that the gas tank is likely full of rust and corrosion, and the fuel system is likely shot.

Funny how much one can learn from a $100 motorcycle........

 

[KrisZ]

Not holistically reflective on what is going on. Simply working to see what functions and what doesn't on the bike. An assessment is likely a match for what is being done. Would not be fun to rebuild the carbs, fuel tank, etc- only to find out the bike was sat for 30 years because of a blown engine. Other items I have done include filling the dried out front brake master cylinder. I ordered front and rear master cylinder rebuild kits, but that didn't stop me from 'wasting" a few ounces of brake fluid to access the brakes.


The question I am trying to grasp on the carbs is if to rebuild/ refurb the existing carbs, or buy the replacement
"2 in 1" carbs. I actually read an article on a guy successfully installing fuel injection on this bike, but the work was really deep and I don't want to become a fuel injection expert- have a lot of other priorities.

The two biggest things I have learned so far from this bike have nothing to do with the motorcycle. First, my youngest Son's 2006 Acura MDX has been in indoor storage for a years- huge mistake not to fill the tank fully before storage and add Stabil. The second is my 1980 El Camino stored on my late Great Grandfather's farm since on or about 1986 in a barn, and hasn't moved since storage. I knew the mice would have gotten to the electric/ wires, and the rubber tubes likely rotted through the vehicle. What I know is that the gas tank is likely full of rust and corrosion, and the fuel system is likely shot.

Funny how much one can learn from a $100 motorcycle........

You're learning and from the looks of it you like to learn from your own mistakes. And I see you still want to apply the "part swapper" mentality to this project. At this point I can only wish you luck. So good luck

 

[JWC86]

I wonder if the carb vents into the intake? If the float(s) is stuck open or the seat(s) is shot that would explain the fuel in the intake.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I wonder if the carb vents into the intake? If the float(s) is stuck open or the seat(s) is shot that would explain the fuel in the intake.

If an intake valve is closed, then it could back-up and overflow into the airbox.

 

[AndyB]

I think this is as easy as the floats and needles being stuck and gas flowing out the float bowl vents. After the gas tank pictures one can only imagine what the inside of the bowls look like. Just pull the carbs as a set and pull the bowls. Bet they’re gummed up good.

 

[JWC86]

If an intake valve is closed, then it could back-up and overflow into the airbox.

Good point.

Would be a good idea to check the crankcase for gas.