Too late to switch to 0W-30 in a 2008 Yaris?

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I am going to be taking over oil changes for my daughters 2008 Toyota Yaris to help her out.
She has 172,000 miles on this little car and it just won't quit.
As far as I know it has been fed a regular diet of 5W-30 of various brands.
I am thinking to go with synthetic 0W-30 from here on out. It only holds a bit more that 3qts I believe.
Have heard that you can have problems switching to synthetic in older engines. Is there any truth to that?
Thanks.
 
You will not have any issues with switching to synthetic oil. The "conventional" oil it's had so far has in all likelihood been semi-synthetic most of the time. I wouldn't bother with switching to harder to find 0w-30 in South Carolina where it doesn't get cold, just buy a quality oil in 5w-30. The engine in her car will easily last until 300k miles with any API certified oil in a vaguely appropriate weight.
 
I used 10W30 and 15W40 HDs and #3600 filters on my daughter’s 2010 Yaris.
We traded it in on a 2013 Matrix which ran on the same grades.
 
Have heard that you can have problems switching to synthetic in older engines. Is there any truth to that?
Thanks.
Back in the day an older neglected engine may contain some degree of buildup at various gaskets/seals which some synthetics would remove. This removal of deposits would allow oil to leak around the hardened seals. IOW the deposits were masking an issue. This is where high mileage oils made their appearance so consumers didn't have to spend $$ replacing leaking seal (i.e. RMS, valve guide, etc.).

This shouldn't be an issue on a high mileage engine which hasn't been neglected.
 
Have heard that you can have problems switching to synthetic in older engines. Is there any truth to that?
Old Wive's Tale based upon things that happened nearly half a century ago. It's a modern engine and will do fine with whatever you want to do wrt 0w30 or 5w30 or "synthetic" or not.
 
Considering the oils are both likely primarily Group III base stocks it is pretty impossible for there to be much of a difference. The problem in the distant past was with majority Group IV oils and even then the use of seal swelling components in all formulations has rendered it moot.
 
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I am guessing N.C. is North Carolina? Does it get cold enough to need a 0W-30?
 
I have experienced oil leakage and increased oil useage from switching to full synthetic oils on high mileage engines. Never again. I'd go with Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 blend and never give it another thought.

Please share that experience with us all.
 
Stay with 5w-30 synthetic . Such as P.P ( Around $27 for 5 quart jug @ Walmart , > or 3023 . Need to buy 10 quarts or two 5 quart jugs . Keep us informed on your decision and results .
 
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Please share that experience with us all.
A couple early experiments I will discount, because they were such old engines (1980 Impala and 1991 Toyota pickup). Both increased leaking after switching to synthetics.

My 1997 Malibu ,I won't. About 180k miles on bulk oil. No leaks. Switched to full synthetic and began to leak. Switched to whatever cheap WM HM conventional and it pretty much stopped.

Latest was my 2005 Toyota Sienna. About 245k miles at the time. Put in some Mobil 1 and it started to leak like crazy. This vehicle had zero problems with this before. Switched out to Maxlife blend and leaking stopped cold...gone. I will be sticking with this oil till it leaves on the hook.

That's been my experience...your's may, and probably will, differ.
 
I am going to be taking over oil changes for my daughters 2008 Toyota Yaris to help her out.
She has 172,000 miles on this little car and it just won't quit.
As far as I know it has been fed a regular diet of 5W-30 of various brands.
I am thinking to go with synthetic 0W-30 from here on out. It only holds a bit more that 3qts I believe.
Have heard that you can have problems switching to synthetic in older engines. Is there any truth to that?
Thanks.
Honestly i would run 5w30 supertech, costco , or what ever is the cheapest at oil change time and not worry one bit about it !
with half decent oil and regular changes it will run almost forever.
 
If it is a 1NZFE 1.5 like the xB in my sig, I would stick with 5W30. mine sheared 0W30 M1 AFE (a highly regarded synthetic) well into 20 weight territory by 7000 miles. M1 EP 5W30 was still OK at 10K. I think the VVT-i and chain, combined with the sub 4 quart sump, isn't a great combo...
 
I am going to be taking over oil changes for my daughters 2008 Toyota Yaris to help her out.
She has 172,000 miles on this little car and it just won't quit.
As far as I know it has been fed a regular diet of 5W-30 of various brands.
I am thinking to go with synthetic 0W-30 from here on out. It only holds a bit more that 3qts I believe.
Have heard that you can have problems switching to synthetic in older engines. Is there any truth to that?
Thanks.
you can switch with no concerns
 
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