Thank you. Sorry for any confusion. I wasn't questioning member Norman's suggestion. I was curious in general as to the origin and applications of the development of these hybrids in general as an appendum to my original post. (Although now looking back at the thread, I can see why that was confusing. Apologies).
Recommend an oil choice to me - used 2005 Highlander V6
- Thread starter NissanMaxima
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I have an 06 Highlander Hybrid, and the last couple of oil changes I've been running a 40 grade oil (Mobil). It was as quiet after the change as this engine has been. I'm doing this to minimize oil consumption. At any rate, I know 40 grade oil wasn't on your list, but it has been mentioned above, and I just wanted to give my two cents.
My understanding of synthetic blends. As oil specifications have become more strict, the ability to meet them has become harder to impossible to meet with oils that are primarily Group I or Group II based (mineral). I don't think that Group I has been used a primary base oil in any oil that meets modern specifications for decades. In order to meet modern specifications, "semi-synthetics" use significant amounts of Group III, IV, or V base oils mixed with Group II.
Here is the catch, virtually all oils, including full "synthetics" are a mix of various groups of base oils. The proportions may be different and full "synthetics" will use more Group III, IV, and/or V base stocks which lessens the need for other additives to meet the specifications (i.e. VII improvers, pour point depressants), but at the end of the day, all the oils are a mix of "mineral" and "synthetic" base stocks. It is the higher proportion of more stable "synthetic" base stocks that help full "synthetics" better tolerate high temperatures and perform better over a longer interval.
What does that mean in the real world? Don't get too caught up in what base stocks an oil uses or individual additive components, it tells you little to nothing about its actual performance which is function of the entire package of base stocks and additive package. Look for an oil that meets good approvals, don't get caught up in the brand, and change at regular intervals. In your case, as others have suggested, your engine is very easy on oil and 5,000 mile intervals are conservative. Pick an oil with a good approval (Dexos 1, Gen 3 is a good bar and plenty of oils in the US that meet it), 5w-30 is plenty thick enough, run it, and don't worry about it.
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That particular oil in that engine? 5k miles seems way too conservative.
Option # 3!
I've got 206k+ on my 3MZ, an impeccable engine IMO 
Any reasonable full synthetic every ~5,000 miles will serve just fine
I suggest you replace the PCV valve, most people forget
The valve cover gaskets and the cam seals will leak, it's not if it's when
Consider a high mileage oil if you want to stall replacing those things
An 3600/400s filter is larger, and fits quite nearly where the stock 3614/910s spins on, should you feel the need for more filter capacity
When I opened mine up
Thread 'Under Valve Cover pics 2006 Camry (3MZ)' https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/under-valve-cover-pics-2006-camry-3mz.371630/
A UOA it turned in
Any reasonable full synthetic every ~5,000 miles will serve just fine
I suggest you replace the PCV valve, most people forget
The valve cover gaskets and the cam seals will leak, it's not if it's when
Consider a high mileage oil if you want to stall replacing those things
An 3600/400s filter is larger, and fits quite nearly where the stock 3614/910s spins on, should you feel the need for more filter capacity
When I opened mine up
Thread 'Under Valve Cover pics 2006 Camry (3MZ)' https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/under-valve-cover-pics-2006-camry-3mz.371630/
A UOA it turned in
This traveled around the Toyota forums for a time until it was confirmed by the company that they installed it. I have no idea what the purpose. When I had my valve covers off, the head and valve covers were pristine, except for this mysterious black "undercoating" material.
Most off the shelf "full synthetics" are a "blend". Like I said, chose an oil with the bottle you like. At 5k mile OCI they are pretty much all the same.
I have an 06 3.3 awd i bought with 140k with leaking valve covers and no history on the oil that was used other then it was regularly serviced. I went immediately to supertech high mileage synthetic 5w30. Guess what? The leak never got worse. Eventually I serviced those gaskets (and the rest of the motor). It currently has Total Quartz 5w30 in it just because it was cheap on clearance. I do 5k intervals on the oil, 10k on the filter (currently Champ XL).
The 3mz is a pretty **** good motor and will typically go few hundred thousand miles
The 3mz is a pretty **** good motor and will typically go few hundred thousand miles
Thanks for all the great replies folks. It is greatly appreciated!
So I went to do my first oil change today only to discover the drain bolt was pretty tight. I thought it was overtightened as I had to use a small pipe as a cheater bar over my ratchet but once I got it off without too much effort, I discovered the apparent cause why it was so tight .... They had apparently reused the fiber washer many times to the point it had worked it's way into the threads a bit. With a tiny jeweler's screwdriver, I carefully removed a bit of the material from the tapped threads in the oil pan best I could but the bolt still binds a bit. I'm wondering if there was also some damage to the threads from overtightening too. The bolt turns in much better than it did, but still binds a bit at midpoint, unlike my other cars I have owned since new which screw in with no effort until they bottom out and you tighten with the wrench to set it, always with a new gasket.
From what I understand, the drain plug is a M12 x 1.25. I'm going to get a M12 x 1.25 thread chaser tap with the thoughts of cleaning up the threads. I understand a chaser is preferable to a tap. I also picked up a new drain plug bolt from Toyota. Is this a reasonable plan?
Found this on Amazon. It is advertised as a chaser for oxygen sensor threads, but should work for the oil drain threads, correct?
So I went to do my first oil change today only to discover the drain bolt was pretty tight. I thought it was overtightened as I had to use a small pipe as a cheater bar over my ratchet but once I got it off without too much effort, I discovered the apparent cause why it was so tight .... They had apparently reused the fiber washer many times to the point it had worked it's way into the threads a bit. With a tiny jeweler's screwdriver, I carefully removed a bit of the material from the tapped threads in the oil pan best I could but the bolt still binds a bit. I'm wondering if there was also some damage to the threads from overtightening too. The bolt turns in much better than it did, but still binds a bit at midpoint, unlike my other cars I have owned since new which screw in with no effort until they bottom out and you tighten with the wrench to set it, always with a new gasket.
From what I understand, the drain plug is a M12 x 1.25. I'm going to get a M12 x 1.25 thread chaser tap with the thoughts of cleaning up the threads. I understand a chaser is preferable to a tap. I also picked up a new drain plug bolt from Toyota. Is this a reasonable plan?
Found this on Amazon. It is advertised as a chaser for oxygen sensor threads, but should work for the oil drain threads, correct?
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Getting a new drain plug is good. I think you are good just cleaning up the threads best you can. Replace the washer every oil change and enjoy your ride. I would use 5 or 10 w30 at 5-6 oci
Thanks. After carefully trying to clean out the threads of the hole with a jeweler's screwdriver, I ran the old bolt in and out a few times and it did work better, but still not smoothly. At midpoint, I needed to use a ratchet with just a bit of torque to clear an apparent rough spot. Tomorrow I'll try the new bolt first and see how it does. If not too bad, I just might skip the thread chaser.
I would skip the thread chaser and wire wheel the drain plug. You can be a bit more aggressive with it. If you actually can feel a high spot or abnormal protrusion you can file it down with a diamond file or similar. Or just buy a new drain plug at any auto part store. The import thing is that it does not bind too much. The thread does not seal. it just holds the plug in place. The seal does all of the sealing. So make sure that is new for now. I do reuse them. But not for ever. I always have a few new ones on had in case they are too beat up.. Good Luck.
Had a 2007 Highlander Hybrid used Mobil 1 5 30. 5000 oci. Engine ran perfect. Inverter failure at 313000 miles finished car.
Replace the leaking gasket and I would suggest
Quaker State Ultimate Protection Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil, 5 Quart - Walmart.com
Tomorrow Buy Quaker State Ultimate Protection Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil, 5 Quart at Walmart.com
www.walmart.com
Clean and full for the win. Cheers for at least another 125k miles and probably a lot more than that.
I would counsel whatever synthetic oil that's on sale and put any savings towards maintaining the rest of the car. Tires, brakes, cooling system, transmission service, etc. Accidents, overheating, and bad transmissions take more cars off the road than worn out engines.
I would counsel whatever synthetic oil that's on sale and put any savings towards maintaining the rest of the car. Tires, brakes, cooling system, transmission service, etc. Accidents, overheating, and bad transmissions take more cars off the road than worn out engines.
Mobil I 5W-30 EP
Any good 5W-30 and send it. OCIs are more important than oil “quality” for Toyotas IMO. You’ll gain nothing going with a boutique oil. The one in a Sienna my parents has seen it all - M1, PP, MaxLife, Castrol Magnatec. 180K, burns no oil AFAIK.
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