I agree but you can get synthetics on sale for about 5% more than dino today. So I stock up on the sale price stuff. But the wifes Toyota is over 100k on valvoline ac and now switched to maxlife which is still $3 cheaper per change and just as good for 5000 OCI's which is what I do. But the synthetics in my truck do give me 2mpg better which makes them the same price basically. But M-1 is way overpriced IMO.
Mobil 1 - good, bad, not worth it?
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I agree but you can get synthetics on sale for about 5% more than dino today. So I stock up on the sale price stuff. But the wifes Toyota is over 100k on valvoline ac and now switched to maxlife which is still $3 cheaper per change and just as good for 5000 OCI's which is what I do. But the synthetics in my truck do give me 2mpg better which makes them the same price basically. But M-1 is way overpriced IMO.
Like I said earlier in this string.....408 Strokers don't like it either apparently.
Mobil 1 is not worth it. Never was.
With UOAs like this Castrol 5w-30 GTX UOA with TBN @ 5.8k miles) on GTX with a 5.8k interval and the TOTAL cost of oil change incl filter is under $5, I don't need the Mobil 1. (and I have run Mobil1 in this SAME engine and the UOA was worse)
And who cares what the VISC is with results like this?
No worries about making my goal of 300k+ with this engine.
Take care, Bill
GTX 5W20
I don't think it's worth the money...
I would trust Mobil 1 over any other oil you can typically find on the store shelf except maybe PP.
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Mobil 1 is not worth it. Never was.
With UOAs like this Castrol 5w-30 GTX UOA with TBN @ 5.8k miles) on GTX with a 5.8k interval and the TOTAL cost of oil change incl filter is under $5, I don't need the Mobil 1. (and I have run Mobil1 in this SAME engine and the UOA was worse)
Bill, I know you are a huge fan of dino oils. No problem with that in any way. But if you could no longer get dino oils at the really cheap prices you've gotten them at in the past (e.g. 59 cents, 79 cents, etc.), would you pay 10% more for a full syn versus an SM/GF4 dino? Such as the PP for $2.92 on the BOGO sale at AA, versus say $2.39 to $2.79 for most big name dino oils? Just curious, cause it seems those great bargains on dino's are getting fewer, further between, and harder to find, at least around here.
Of course, TropArtic is still $1.68/qt around here every day at WM, but alas, no 5W-20. But my other favorites, Motorcraft and regular Pennzoil, are $2.08 and $2.30-2.50, not much less than the PP sale. And they're actually *more* than the PB rebate deal. Seems most other store-brands and lesser name brands (still SM/GF4) are around $2.00/qt now.
Mobil...Shmoe bull. It's just an over priced oil. There are many other brands that IMHO work even better. But because this corporate giant has huge marketing coffers and was one of the first on the market with a synthetic, does not make it "worth it". If you like it? Then buy it!
I won't get into the negative aspects of my experiences. Mobil is just another contender now. Hopefully everyone will stop making it the holy grail of oils!
I'd like to see something other than a "Mobil UOA" in the UOA section. Wouldn't that be nice for a change? It would be refreshing to see other oils get the same treatment.
Highly over-rated oil IMHO.
I won't get into the negative aspects of my experiences. Mobil is just another contender now. Hopefully everyone will stop making it the holy grail of oils!
I'd like to see something other than a "Mobil UOA" in the UOA section. Wouldn't that be nice for a change? It would be refreshing to see other oils get the same treatment.
Highly over-rated oil IMHO.
"I would trust Mobil 1 over any other oil you can typically find on the store shelf except maybe PP"
Mobil's marketing magic has worked on at least some people.
Mobil's marketing magic has worked on at least some people.
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Quote:
Mobil 1 is not worth it. Never was.
With UOAs like this Castrol 5w-30 GTX UOA with TBN @ 5.8k miles) on GTX with a 5.8k interval and the TOTAL cost of oil change incl filter is under $5, I don't need the Mobil 1. (and I have run Mobil1 in this SAME engine and the UOA was worse)
Bill, I know you are a huge fan of dino oils. No problem with that in any way. But if you could no longer get dino oils at the really cheap prices you've gotten them at in the past (e.g. 59 cents, 79 cents, etc.), would you pay 10% more for a full syn versus an SM/GF4 dino? Such as the PP for $2.92 on the BOGO sale at AA, versus say $2.39 to $2.79 for most big name dino oils? Just curious, cause it seems those great bargains on dino's are getting fewer, further between, and harder to find, at least around here.
Of course, TropArtic is still $1.68/qt around here every day at WM, but alas, no 5W-20. But my other favorites, Motorcraft and regular Pennzoil, are $2.08 and $2.30-2.50, not much less than the PP sale. And they're actually *more* than the PB rebate deal. Seems most other store-brands and lesser name brands (still SM/GF4) are around $2.00/qt now.
Nope, not worth it.
Remember that I have run UOAs and ran hundreds of thousands of miles on yesterdays oils with never a problem.
I can go down to Wal-Mart and get 5 quarts of GTX all day long for $11. The next cheapest Syn is $15 for supertech or $20 for PP.
If your going to ask the question that I can not get conventional oil on sale then I guess we need to say also that there is NO MORE syn oil on sale...
There are no AA here. I can get 2 cases of conventional oil today for 79 cents a quart. PB is 30 miles one way from here and I do not shop there.. (do a search on my user ID and Pep Boys and you'll see why)
Nope, why even spend 10% more if its not going to matter in the long run?
Lets put it this way. Its like you spending $3 for a gallon of gas while I'll spend $2.70. We both get the same use of the gallon.
Alot here will spend the 10%. I'll spend the $$ for UOAs to keep a track on my engines and KNOW what works.
Most here just think because they are spending $$ for syn oil that all is ok. Most of the time it is. But, if they spent the time and did UOAs both with Syn and conventional oils, they would find out that the syn does nothing for them.
It does help out oil salesman - oil companies.
Take care, bill
PS: I went to checkers today and they have Shell for 79 cents a quart 2 case max. So a 5k oci with Supertech filter will cost you under $7 for a 5 quart sump.
Bill's always right about everything and he's sassy about it too.
I was a M1 user, for 10 or even 15K miles with the EP variety. I missed changing oil. I'm almost out of M1 now, and have 12 quarts of the PP that I got on the last BOGO at AA.
What changed?
I like tinkering under the hood on a Saturday morning with Car Talk on my local NPR station and if I'm doing conventional oil changes every 5K miles, I can stagger my cars so that one of them will need a change that month.
I have a new car that recommends 5K mile/6 month intervals, so rather than hassle with explaining that the oil was still good, etc. I just change it on that schedule.
Two of the fleet are over 150K miles and use some oil. Both are around a quart every 2000-2500 miles, and topping off with syn on a 10K interval didn't seem cost effective. Since the consumption is not linear, on 5K intervals, I might use one quart, but use 3 or 4 on a 10K to 15K interval.
(As an aside, it appears the Geo Prizm has reduced it's consumption, perhaps due to the AutoRX that I did during the winter months. Asking myself why I subjected myself to frequent oil changes during the winter. Oilbabe's Camry at about 156K is getting hers done this spring.)
Lastly and in no particular order, the conventional oils are darn good, so I see no great issue.
I will use my synthetic during the winter months, so instead of having to change the oil every other month in my car and probably oil babes every 3rd month, I'll be able to go 4 to 6 months on that interval. I'll have to see what the garage situation is in my new home. If I have enough room to park two cars and change the oil indoors, then I may exhaust my synthetic stash and go largely conventional oil.
What changed?
I like tinkering under the hood on a Saturday morning with Car Talk on my local NPR station and if I'm doing conventional oil changes every 5K miles, I can stagger my cars so that one of them will need a change that month.
I have a new car that recommends 5K mile/6 month intervals, so rather than hassle with explaining that the oil was still good, etc. I just change it on that schedule.
Two of the fleet are over 150K miles and use some oil. Both are around a quart every 2000-2500 miles, and topping off with syn on a 10K interval didn't seem cost effective. Since the consumption is not linear, on 5K intervals, I might use one quart, but use 3 or 4 on a 10K to 15K interval.
(As an aside, it appears the Geo Prizm has reduced it's consumption, perhaps due to the AutoRX that I did during the winter months. Asking myself why I subjected myself to frequent oil changes during the winter. Oilbabe's Camry at about 156K is getting hers done this spring.)
Lastly and in no particular order, the conventional oils are darn good, so I see no great issue.
I will use my synthetic during the winter months, so instead of having to change the oil every other month in my car and probably oil babes every 3rd month, I'll be able to go 4 to 6 months on that interval. I'll have to see what the garage situation is in my new home. If I have enough room to park two cars and change the oil indoors, then I may exhaust my synthetic stash and go largely conventional oil.
So how does everyone document owner performed oil changes to a dealership for a new vehicle under warranty?
Wish we had some C/S/K around here. No such luck.
Well, I have my receipts for the case of Toyota filters I purchased and all my oil. I write the date and mileage in my logbook (electronic on my PDA). I also record the date and mileage in the service schedule booklet that came with the car and reset the maintenance required light.
If that is not sufficient, then I will not be buying any more vehicles from that dealer.
If that is not sufficient, then I will not be buying any more vehicles from that dealer.
Not at all. I disregard marketing efforts and prefer to look at "real world" facts.
I've used Mobil 1 5W-30 and 5W-20 as well as current fill which I like best. It's down to compliance of OEM specifications. Mobil 1 are only oil that meet spec in that viscosity.
AFAICT, viscosity of current fill is only available at one source. Price is therefore not an issue here.
For less money GC would be a good replacement.
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