AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
So blocks in back and ball joint spacers in front maybe? That front suspension all looks OEM but I don't know Toys. Not seeing an anti-sway bar in front, that's not good for road handling.
Lifted truck handling
- Thread starter TheKracken
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Originally Posted By: AZjeff
So blocks in back and ball joint spacers in front maybe? That front suspension all looks OEM but I don't know Toys. Not seeing an anti-sway bar in front, that's not good for road handling.
If it is as simple as a antisway bar that would be great. No idea if that is something I can install myself or not but that would be great. Off road handling is not important anymore. A baby on the way means on road is way more important.
So blocks in back and ball joint spacers in front maybe? That front suspension all looks OEM but I don't know Toys. Not seeing an anti-sway bar in front, that's not good for road handling.
If it is as simple as a antisway bar that would be great. No idea if that is something I can install myself or not but that would be great. Off road handling is not important anymore. A baby on the way means on road is way more important.
Originally Posted By: TheKracken
Originally Posted By: 02SE
That confirms you don't have rack & pinion steering.
Haha, okay so what do I have then? I really don't know much about suspension and such. I just do lots of general engine and transmission maintenance. First time owning a truck
That's recirculating ball steering. Common on most light trucks through the late 1990s/early 2000s, but you'll only find 3/4 ton and larger trucks with it now, and the Wrangler.
It's not going to handle like rack & pinion regardless, but at those miles the joints are probably pretty worn. All of the suspension and steering joints need to be checked for play.
The shocks look to be the cheap Monroes which are not very good. Better shocks may help, but for what you are describing, you need to check all the joints first and go from there. As suggested, taking it in for an alignment is probably your next step. They will tell you what is worn out.
Originally Posted By: 02SE
That confirms you don't have rack & pinion steering.
Haha, okay so what do I have then? I really don't know much about suspension and such. I just do lots of general engine and transmission maintenance. First time owning a truck
That's recirculating ball steering. Common on most light trucks through the late 1990s/early 2000s, but you'll only find 3/4 ton and larger trucks with it now, and the Wrangler.
It's not going to handle like rack & pinion regardless, but at those miles the joints are probably pretty worn. All of the suspension and steering joints need to be checked for play.
The shocks look to be the cheap Monroes which are not very good. Better shocks may help, but for what you are describing, you need to check all the joints first and go from there. As suggested, taking it in for an alignment is probably your next step. They will tell you what is worn out.
The previous owner did say the shocks were Monroe, I am guessing that is why it is a very bumpy harsh ride on the trails.
The soonest I could get an appointment for a local off road shop is in 3 weeks and they will check the alignment. I would hope they will check everything else out too. Really hoping the bill won't be too much.
The soonest I could get an appointment for a local off road shop is in 3 weeks and they will check the alignment. I would hope they will check everything else out too. Really hoping the bill won't be too much.
Hmmm lift blocks, interesting.
Is the T100 stock leaf-over-axle? I thought most leaf spring applications were under axle?
Looks like 3" lift blocks. If it was leaf under axle you gained like 5" of lift in the rear.
Leaf over axle is always going to give more body roll, not much you can do about that.
Is the T100 stock leaf-over-axle? I thought most leaf spring applications were under axle?
Looks like 3" lift blocks. If it was leaf under axle you gained like 5" of lift in the rear.
Leaf over axle is always going to give more body roll, not much you can do about that.
As already said, you have recirculating ball steering.
As for the lift, I see blocks in back, and most likely they just increased the preload on the torsion bars to raise the front, which would make for a harsh ride.
Take a picture from behind the front end, to see if the sway bar is still in place.
As for the lift, I see blocks in back, and most likely they just increased the preload on the torsion bars to raise the front, which would make for a harsh ride.
Take a picture from behind the front end, to see if the sway bar is still in place.
Major Buzzkill here. You are butchering a classic truck with the lift and huge tires. I would check every ball and bushing in the front end for wear. Big tires and lifts wear out suspensions and wheel bearings etc. The T 100 prolly had 15s from the factory. Anything larger than 235 75 15s is hurting the truck.
Originally Posted By: JeepWJ19
Is the T100 stock leaf-over-axle?
4wd's have the leafs over the axle.
Is the T100 stock leaf-over-axle?
4wd's have the leafs over the axle.
Originally Posted By: andyd
Major Buzzkill here. You are butchering a classic truck with the lift and huge tires. I would check every ball and bushing in the front end for wear. Big tires and lifts wear out suspensions and wheel bearings etc. The T 100 prolly had 15s from the factory. Anything larger than 235 75 15s is hurting the truck.
Depending on how the truck was optioned, it could have come with 31x10.50R15 tires, stock.
Major Buzzkill here. You are butchering a classic truck with the lift and huge tires. I would check every ball and bushing in the front end for wear. Big tires and lifts wear out suspensions and wheel bearings etc. The T 100 prolly had 15s from the factory. Anything larger than 235 75 15s is hurting the truck.
Depending on how the truck was optioned, it could have come with 31x10.50R15 tires, stock.
Here is the best I can do at the moment for the front from behind.
Also, to the person saying I butchered a good truck, I bought it this way.
Also, to the person saying I butchered a good truck, I bought it this way.
Originally Posted By: 02SE
Originally Posted By: andyd
Major Buzzkill here. You are butchering a classic truck with the lift and huge tires. I would check every ball and bushing in the front end for wear. Big tires and lifts wear out suspensions and wheel bearings etc. The T 100 prolly had 15s from the factory. Anything larger than 235 75 15s is hurting the truck.
Depending on how the truck was optioned, it could have come with 31x10.50R15 tires, stock.
It did come with 31x10.5R15
I now have 265 70 17's
Originally Posted By: andyd
Major Buzzkill here. You are butchering a classic truck with the lift and huge tires. I would check every ball and bushing in the front end for wear. Big tires and lifts wear out suspensions and wheel bearings etc. The T 100 prolly had 15s from the factory. Anything larger than 235 75 15s is hurting the truck.
Depending on how the truck was optioned, it could have come with 31x10.50R15 tires, stock.
It did come with 31x10.5R15
I now have 265 70 17's
Looks real good under there, as far as hardly any visible rust. I'd take the spacers out. That may give you more control on the highway. Plus the alignment as already mentioned. It's a good sign they're booked out 3 weeks in advance.
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Looks real good under there, as far as hardly any visible rust. I'd take the spacers out. That may give you more control on the highway. Plus the alignment as already mentioned. It's a good sign they're booked out 3 weeks in advance.
Are you talking about the wheel spacers? That is one thing I actually do really like about the truck
Rather it not be lifted.
Looks real good under there, as far as hardly any visible rust. I'd take the spacers out. That may give you more control on the highway. Plus the alignment as already mentioned. It's a good sign they're booked out 3 weeks in advance.
Are you talking about the wheel spacers? That is one thing I actually do really like about the truck
Rather it not be lifted.Originally Posted By: TheKracken
I can see where the sway bar mount would be bolted, and it's not there. That will also make the handling more squirrelly. Another concern is that they hacked off the exhaust pipe under the truck. That could pose a problem with CO getting into the cab, and you just gently falling asleep, permanently.
I can see where the sway bar mount would be bolted, and it's not there. That will also make the handling more squirrelly. Another concern is that they hacked off the exhaust pipe under the truck. That could pose a problem with CO getting into the cab, and you just gently falling asleep, permanently.
That truck is pretty jacked up in the rear. That will cause your castor to be out of whack. I'd go for less lift in the rear. Maybe a 1" spacer instead of the 3". Do that and add a front sway bar and I would bet money that it will handle pretty well.
Monroe's on a lifted truck? I bet they're blown. Look into Bilstein 5100s if they are. If those shocks are not meant for a lifted truck, then they never worked right anyway.
See what the OR shop has to say. I feel confident you can fix on a budget, but I'm just guessing.
Ignore the doom and gloom stereotypes about lifted trucks. My JGC would run circles around a stock one. Less body roll than stock, better handling than stock, and even with 32s, there is little difference in braking.
See what the OR shop has to say. I feel confident you can fix on a budget, but I'm just guessing.
Ignore the doom and gloom stereotypes about lifted trucks. My JGC would run circles around a stock one. Less body roll than stock, better handling than stock, and even with 32s, there is little difference in braking.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Monroe's on a lifted truck? I bet they're blown. Look into Bilstein 5100s if they are. If those shocks are not meant for a lifted truck, then they never worked right anyway.
See what the OR shop has to say. I feel confident you can fix on a budget, but I'm just guessing.
Ignore the doom and gloom stereotypes about lifted trucks. My JGC would run circles around a stock one. Less body roll than stock, better handling than stock, and even with 32s, there is little difference in braking.
Yeah ... no sway bars at all will make it a bit odd to drive. The 32'' tires when coming from factory 31'' tires should make no difference.
Monroe's on a lifted truck? I bet they're blown. Look into Bilstein 5100s if they are. If those shocks are not meant for a lifted truck, then they never worked right anyway.
See what the OR shop has to say. I feel confident you can fix on a budget, but I'm just guessing.
Ignore the doom and gloom stereotypes about lifted trucks. My JGC would run circles around a stock one. Less body roll than stock, better handling than stock, and even with 32s, there is little difference in braking.
Yeah ... no sway bars at all will make it a bit odd to drive. The 32'' tires when coming from factory 31'' tires should make no difference.
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Ignore the doom and gloom stereotypes about lifted trucks. My JGC would run circles around a stock one. Less body roll than stock, better handling than stock, and even with 32s, there is little difference in braking.
Done right a lift can be OK. A 3" torsion bar crank or ball joint spacers and rear blocks is a budget lift for looks only, and the Monroes and missing A/S bar don't help. Kracken is on the right path, get it looked at and get the steering and suspension to spec and go from there. The lift he has would be easy to reverse or drop an inch.
I'd be tempted to go back to stock height in back, 1" lift in front, lose the wheel spacers (those wheels probably have more backspace anyhow).
Ignore the doom and gloom stereotypes about lifted trucks. My JGC would run circles around a stock one. Less body roll than stock, better handling than stock, and even with 32s, there is little difference in braking.
Done right a lift can be OK. A 3" torsion bar crank or ball joint spacers and rear blocks is a budget lift for looks only, and the Monroes and missing A/S bar don't help. Kracken is on the right path, get it looked at and get the steering and suspension to spec and go from there. The lift he has would be easy to reverse or drop an inch.
I'd be tempted to go back to stock height in back, 1" lift in front, lose the wheel spacers (those wheels probably have more backspace anyhow).
Lowered, stiffened and braced, with ARBs and low profile, wide section tyres will make it handle.
Lift kits and mud tyres are exactly what you need to kill handling.
Lift kits and mud tyres are exactly what you need to kill handling.
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