I know a floor jack can lift the front of my 2021 Subaru crosstrek but could or should I use a bottle jack at the lifting plate underneath my car?Any help would be great
Bottle Jack-lifting front end of car
- Thread starter Joeescape63
- Start date
Like both front tires up at once lifted by one point? I don't think there is a spot designated for that? A 4x4 across the front subframe would probably be fine but its way back there from the front and you would need to stabilize with something under each side frame rail before getting under that. For under the frame rails in the designated spots any jack is fine with a broad enough plate not to damage the car.
I doubt it will be an issue. Just be mindful of stability.
If you chock the rear wheels, put the chocks at the back of the rear wheels to allow the car to creep forward as it's lifted.
If you chock the rear wheels, put the chocks at the back of the rear wheels to allow the car to creep forward as it's lifted.
If you have a floor jack, then I'd use it instead. If you don't have a floor jack, now is a great time to get one.
You "can" use a bottle jack without killing yourself, but it will never be as stable, is more of a pain to use. Consider the % of total vehicle ownership cost to buy at least an entry level, full (consumer) sized floor jack.
Can you provide some background info about this lifting plate or pictures? I am doubting it is designed to be used with a bottle jack rather than regular floor jack, compact jack included with the vehicle, or a lift. You can spread out the load with a block of wood, but that doesn't necessarily make it a lot more stable. A puck on a floor jack saddle is more stable than that, if the load force needs spread a bit.
You "can" use a bottle jack without killing yourself, but it will never be as stable, is more of a pain to use. Consider the % of total vehicle ownership cost to buy at least an entry level, full (consumer) sized floor jack.
Can you provide some background info about this lifting plate or pictures? I am doubting it is designed to be used with a bottle jack rather than regular floor jack, compact jack included with the vehicle, or a lift. You can spread out the load with a block of wood, but that doesn't necessarily make it a lot more stable. A puck on a floor jack saddle is more stable than that, if the load force needs spread a bit.
Not a bad idea. They're not as cheap as they used to be, but the 1.5T HF ones are pretty handy things. Small and easy to carry around. I have used to lift a corner of my Tundra on occasion, it didn't have enough lift but that didn't stop me, it wasn't like it was lifting the entire truck in the process.
Used to have one of the smaller trolley jacks. Bit heavier but did a number of tire rotations with that.
The rear is the differential and the front is a steel plate either before or after the oil drain depending upon the year. The car will not know where it's a bottle jack or floor jack or "The Rock" (movie actor) lifting up the vehicle. A floor jack would seem to be more stable because of its footprint.
I should also say the lifting point on the sides of the vehicle is the area on both sides of the pinch weld, not the actual pinch weld. It you look at the factory jack and how it fits around the pinch weld you will see what I mean.
I have a 3 ton professional floor jack that has a label of "The Beast". It's a great floor jack but weighs over 100 lbs I'd bet. Got it used for the same price HF charged for new. But it's a professional one, not a HF.
I guess the new large floor jacks these days are aluminum and not steel.
I should also say the lifting point on the sides of the vehicle is the area on both sides of the pinch weld, not the actual pinch weld. It you look at the factory jack and how it fits around the pinch weld you will see what I mean.
I have a 3 ton professional floor jack that has a label of "The Beast". It's a great floor jack but weighs over 100 lbs I'd bet. Got it used for the same price HF charged for new. But it's a professional one, not a HF.
I guess the new large floor jacks these days are aluminum and not steel.
^ Is it a plate covering a significant area like a brush guard? I've had vehicles with those but they were not meant to be used as a jack point, were just a thin (relative to the weight of a vehicle) plate that I wouldn't trust to not deform under the weight of ~1/2 the vehicle.
Anytime you lift up a vehicle whether it be with a jack (various) or a lift...there is always an element of danger. There are no guarantees with any of it.
Now about lifting or jacking up one end of a vehicle...you can use a bottle jack (I've done it myself), but it is more dangerous with a bottle jack than with a good floor jack. Bottle jacks are basically 'static' in that they have no degrees of movement to compensate for the movement and shifting of the vehicle as it is being lifted. There is a greater chance of the jack 'slipping' of the lift point of the vehicle. If you are lifting one end of a vehicle (front or back), it does not raise in a linear motion...it raises in an arc. So, using a floor jack is safer as it can 'follow' this arc because of the design of the floor jack (pivot points and wheels, etc.).
If the bottle jack is your only option, I would jack a corner of vehicle at its designated lift point...jack stand that corner and then lift the opposite corner...finishing off with a good jack stand on that corner as well.
Further more, the lift 'pad' on bottle jacks are smaller than those on a floor jack. The greater the area, the better the load spread which could help prevent potential damage to the vehicle.
Now about lifting or jacking up one end of a vehicle...you can use a bottle jack (I've done it myself), but it is more dangerous with a bottle jack than with a good floor jack. Bottle jacks are basically 'static' in that they have no degrees of movement to compensate for the movement and shifting of the vehicle as it is being lifted. There is a greater chance of the jack 'slipping' of the lift point of the vehicle. If you are lifting one end of a vehicle (front or back), it does not raise in a linear motion...it raises in an arc. So, using a floor jack is safer as it can 'follow' this arc because of the design of the floor jack (pivot points and wheels, etc.).
If the bottle jack is your only option, I would jack a corner of vehicle at its designated lift point...jack stand that corner and then lift the opposite corner...finishing off with a good jack stand on that corner as well.
Further more, the lift 'pad' on bottle jacks are smaller than those on a floor jack. The greater the area, the better the load spread which could help prevent potential damage to the vehicle.
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