The width of the vehicle is irrelevant. It adds stress to the bearings and studs. Picture holding your arm straight out from your body. If someone hangs a weight from your elbow area, you're gonna be able to hold your arm up longer than if they hang it from your hand. Same principal when you move the weight of the vehicle out further on the studs and bearings.
Should I remove the lift kit?
- Thread starter Dehaka
- Start date
Yes but going from say a +40 offset to a +20 offset wheel is no different to using a 20mm spacer.
It has the same effect on the bearing.
It has the same effect on the bearing.
Bring it back to stock. It will drive better, ride better, get better mileage, and less wind noise. Lifted trucks look good but at an added expensive of handling and fuel mileage, and ride quality. Plus large tires, universal joints, and suspension parts cost a lot more money and wear out more quickly.
Why?
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
It will look like a dorkwagon with a lift and stock tires. Lift and big tires is about look 98.5% of the time, we love to rant about mall crawlers....
Same effect on bearing, yes, but not on the studs. When a bearing's life is shortened, there are usually warning signs of impending failure, as opposed to the usual sudden failure of studs.
I’m interested to know why the studs would fail if the spacer has been correctly fitted to the hub and the nuts torqued down? I don’t see why those studs would end up under any more tension/ stress with a wheel + spacer in comparison to a wheel with the same total offset. Companies like H&R make hub centric spacers that are TUV approved which if it was proven to cause sudden stud/ bolt failure then the approval wouldn’t be given.
I’m genuinely curious to know because I have and have had hub centric spacers fitted to current and past vehicle’s. Last thing I need is a wheel coming off.
Most won't fail...I guess there is enough safety margin built in to handle it. But spacers definitely put more stress on the studs. In my earlier post, I used the analogy of the human arm. The shoulder is the "anchor point", and the further you put the weight from the anchor point, the harder it is to hold up the weight, because of leverage. With a wheel stud, the wheel is pressed tightly to the hub...close to the studs anchor point. When you add a spacer, the wheel (and the weight/stresses that it transfers to the stud) are moved away from the stud's anchor point. (Using the arm analogy, the weight is no longer near the shoulder, but now in the middle of the arm.)
I get that but how is that different to using a wheel with a lower offset? I don’t see any difference in this sense.
I was gonna say that. No one reads??
What are you taking about? Those look like OEM Alcoas to me??? These are aftermarket wheels????? I'm VERY skeptical
I'd lose the 16s and go 325/60/20s.
OP, body lifts are dumb but if it's working and you don't have any issues, I'd leave it.
Are you satisfied with towing performance? If so, the tire size is fine.
You've got a 10.25 ff rear and D50 TTB front. The D50 uses D60 outer bearings and spindle so NO, you're not stressing anything. The E4OD should be fine behind a 351.
It'll always drive like posterior because it's TTB, so just live with that. If you want to step up get a D60 from an F350 AND do a shackle reversal. The latter is very important but it'll require lift (which would also allow deletion of body lift)
Are you satisfied with towing performance? If so, the tire size is fine.
You've got a 10.25 ff rear and D50 TTB front. The D50 uses D60 outer bearings and spindle so NO, you're not stressing anything. The E4OD should be fine behind a 351.
It'll always drive like posterior because it's TTB, so just live with that. If you want to step up get a D60 from an F350 AND do a shackle reversal. The latter is very important but it'll require lift (which would also allow deletion of body lift)
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
I’d go back to stock. Body lifts are a joke.
The offset of the wheel doesn't have any affect on where the wheel is mounted wrt the hub itself. Like zrxkawboy said, it's still going to be mounted near the "shoulder" regardless of offset.
I'm probably not phrasing it well enough. OK, the place where the stud mates to the hub is its anchor point, right? Now, picture where the wheel sits on the stud: it's pretty much right against that anchor point. That will be the same regardless of the offset built into the wheel...it will always be at the same point on the stud. Now, let's add a spacer. With the spacer, we've moved that contact point further away from the stud's anchor point.
And this is where you and I are arguing that by doing that, you're putting more stress on the studs, which is dangerous because if they fail, it will do so without warning whereas a bearing hints that it is going to fail through noises and such. Spidertrax spacers probably do the best job at keeping that stress to a minimum, but I don't believe it resolves the issue completely. @Audiman
Everyone went "SQUIRREL!!!" on wheel spacers but what personally concerns me is the studs pulling in the aluminum spacer. To be clear, I'm not sure this EVER occurs but pressing wheel studs into Al just seems questionable.
Thus, I like the idea of stainless spacers if one must use them. They are available, but they are $$$$$ compared to Al
I've always wanted to make my own, but just getting SS round stock large enough is a challenge!!
Thus, I like the idea of stainless spacers if one must use them. They are available, but they are $$$$$ compared to Al
I've always wanted to make my own, but just getting SS round stock large enough is a challenge!!
