Keep Car?

[Spector]

A 2000 Buick Regal, SC 3.8L 100,500 miles. Body in very good shape, engine runs fine, rear valve cover seepage. No work needs to be done except for seepage.
This week a rear wheel brake line ruptured (totally corroded) causing complete loss of brakes (no damage or injuries). Over the past few years several technicians have commented on the degree of corrosion under the car. I concur, all brake lines exposed (not shrouded in covers etc just placed wide open under car) lots of noticeable corrosion on lines. tech inspected lines and said the rest seemed okay but I am not so sure after looking myself. Would appear to be a major cost to replace all the brake lines. I believe the car was driven in the rust belt of Northeast for 4 years before I purchased it, thus the corrosion. {Past few years have averaged 500-1000 in repairs.

So, thinking of a replacement.

Your thoughts?

 

[JHZR2]

Ive replaced a few brake lines before, rubber and metal. No big deal, IMO.

 

[Zaedock]

I wouldn't get rid of a car over brake lines.

The 4-5 years in the belt shouldn't be too bad. My wife's '04 Maxx looks great underneath. Throw up a pic so we can take a look.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Brake lines are pretty cheap. Have you shopped around?

Used car prices are ridiculous now, and what you have there is a very reliable car usually.

 

[MarkM66]

Can you get the factory brake lines from the dealer still?

How do the fuel lines look?

 

[Spector]

Fuel lines run alongside brake so equally encrusted in corrosion

I have not spoken to dealer or investigated the cost to replace all the lines.

 

[Spazdog]

The thing that bothers me about the pre-2004 Supercharged 3800 isn't the brake parts availiability, it's the engine compartment fires.

I haven't gone on a Regal fire investigation yet, just Monte Carlos and Grands Prix. But there have been several of those.

 

[Trav]

No big deal go to AA and get some copper/nickel brake line and fittings.

Brake Line

You will also need a flaring tool, you can pick one up for about $25. This line flares really easy and can be bent in knots without kinking by hand.
It is DOT brake line certified and this mix is used by OEM on Porsche, Volvo, Aston martin, ect. It will never rot again.

Do a few practice flares first, once you get the hang of it you can swap a complex full length line out in an hour easy.

 

[NHGUY]

I would be more concerned with front rails/rear unibody reinforcement rust.I've seen some horrid GM rust videos on You Tube (Saturns and such).The underpinnings under GM FWD cars is very much a magnet for corrosion.Wether its poor galvanizing,thin gauge steel,or unprotected spot welds....whatever it is,plenty have reached the junkyards all the while looking decent on the topside.

 

[Whimsey]

My bought new 2002 F-150 has frame and underbody component rust, which I tend to every other year at least. The body is fine, I live in a salt belt climate in NW NJ and my driveway is stone with water flowing underneath it. I've had all my brakes lines replaced, first the rears then the fronts. It's cheaper to replace the brake lines than to get rid of the vehicle if the rest of the truck is fixable, as in my case.

Whimsey

 

[SS1970chrysler]

I usually buy complete line sets from Inline Tube. Stainless steel is good.

 

[cptbarkey]

if it truely bothers you, make it someone elses problem and pocket at least 2 grand in cash.

 

[eljefino]

I'll give you $400 for it.

W-bodies are not great for rust resistance. The RR wheel has a lengthy line going all over robin hood's barn before completing its mission. Rocker panels turn to swiss cheese pretty quickly as well.

I echo the above idea to get bulk brake line and flare it yourself. I did one of these with preflared lines and adapters and it was expensive and a pain, with every master cylinder nut a different thread. Then I did another, flaring, and it worked out! If my dowdy Century 3.1 was worth it so must be your supercharged 3.8.

This is a total job for a hilbilly mechanic or if you trust your life to one, a craigslist guy working under the table. Only problem could be bleeding the ABS afterwards.

 

[MarkM66]

Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
I usually buy complete line sets from Inline Tube. Stainless steel is good.

For a 2000 Regal?

 

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: NHGUY
I would be more concerned with front rails/rear unibody reinforcement rust.I've seen some horrid GM rust videos on You Tube (Saturns and such).The underpinnings under GM FWD cars is very much a magnet for corrosion.Wether its poor galvanizing,thin gauge steel,or unprotected spot welds....whatever it is,plenty have reached the junkyards all the while looking decent on the topside.


It's funny you say that. My 2002 Century w/ 132K is one of the best cars I've ever owned. The only non-maintanence repair I've ever done was to change the I-M gasket (as a precaution) at about 80K. The 4T65E shifts like new and the 3.1 will easily do another 130K.
The underbody is more rusty than I care for and will probably be the car's undoing.
I just replaced both O2 sensors (even though I had no check engine lights) in an attempt to bring the mpg back to where it used to be.
I'm most likely going to sell this car soon because I have too many cars and insurance is getting costly.

 

[mechtech2]

Covering the lines may actually make things WORSE. Things like this often HOLD moisture.
Spray new ones with undercoating or paint, maybe.
Good luck buying factory lines - either not available or ridiculous in price They will have to be bent from straight stock. USE A HAND HELD BENDER TOOL [cheap].