Rotor failure

Thats some nasty shyte. However if you did regular brake servicing- that condition should have caught long ago.
Yeah, I can see though if I lived in a place without requiring snow tires, and salt, 2 years isn't really all that long a time between taking off your tires if a vehicle doesn't need tire rotations to often...
 
Yeah, I can see though if I lived in a place without requiring snow tires, and salt, 2 years isn't really all that long a time between taking off your tires if a vehicle doesn't need tire rotations to often...
Well, there is rotating tires for even wear, servicing brake caliper pins, flushing brake fluid- I can think of a few excuses to re/re tires.
 
Dumb question: do they salt or use mag chloride or anything else in KY?

Regardless, I'd almost guess those were sitting on a seaside dock for 10 years before being sold to you....but then the braking surface would have looked terrible, also
Not sure if they use mag chloride on the roads here. I don't drive it very often mainly in deer season off road and in bad weather during the winter. I always wash car with underbody a few days after a snowstorm and roads cleared up.
 
Well, there is rotating tires for even wear, servicing brake caliper pins, flushing brake fluid- I can think of a few excuses to re/re tires.
I did this brake job 2 years ago and have driven the vehicle less than 5,000 miles since then. Primarily a bad weather and deer hunting vehicle now. I have rotated tires myself and know there is often surface rust but did not see this until I thought the caliper seized up. Caliper was fine it was rotor opening up at the separation and squeezing through the brake pads. Not sure why it wasn't taking the rust off which normally is a stuck open caliper
 
Wow that's bad. I'm wondering if O'Reilly faced a covid era supply chain problem and sourced whatever they could find.

Depending on the area and weather, automobiles can rust pretty bad in KY, at least in my area where they salt the roads if it MIGHT snow, then if it doesn't snow much, that salty slush is super concentrated and more of it stays on the road instead of being plowed or melting/flushed off the road.

This statement is confusing:

There are two rotors pictured, neither looking like they had any pad contact from being driven recently.
I don't drive it very often and it does sit outside as garage is full. I need to clean it out and park inside. Drove it a short distance like a few miles a few months ago and it has been parked. I don't like brake work in 90+ degree weather and don't like the mosquitoes at night. Didn't need it right now as bad weather isn't an issue and deer season just came in. I don't hunt when it is this warm either.
 
I would certainly not buy that brand of rotor again, even if a free replacement.
Too much riding on having good brakes.

Since you appear to have a lot of the same model car, is it possible you confused which car has the two year old rotors??
Just seems next to impossible to see rotors waste away that severely in two years. Even made out of Chinesium
 
I didn't think they could get that bad in Kentucky :poop:

I'd expect that to be more likely in New England, Minnesota, or Canada, but not Kentucky :D

This is why coated rotors are awesome :)



Pakistan :sneaky:



Metal quality control, what's that? We don't do no freaking metal analysis. The only metal analysis we do is if it looks like Steel it's good enough.
 
Coated rotors.is the best solution.

O'Reilly QQ brand rotors are crap. They warranty them not because they are great rotors rather they hope you will tire of coming back for a free replacement.

I buy Wagner e-coated rotors. I look for the best price between RockAuto and Amazon (factoring in shipping).
 
Notice the total lack of safety equipment. No steel toed shoes, no masks, absolute minimum amount of protection from burns when working around hot metal. OSHA would have a field day if somebody tried to pull that off in the United States.
 
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Be aware that coated rotors is mostly to protect the rotor hub, and outer edge for cosmetic purposes. The paint is not sprayed into the vanes...at least not on any I have purchased over the years.
 
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I do love how in the lathe portion of the posted video, you can see that the whole hat has a wobble compared to the swept friction surface which is being machined. That thing is going to be smooth as glass once mounted on a customer's vehicle. I get that the lathe work is there to even things out, but it still never looks right...
 
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I do love how in the lathe portion of the posted video, you can see that the whole hat has a wobble compared to the swept friction surface which is being machined. That thing is going to be smooth as glass once mounted on a customer's vehicle. I get that the lathe work is there to even things out, but it still never looks right...
Unless it mounts up EXACTLY like that it will have horrible pedal pulsations.

This is why I don't turn my own rotors and a dedicated brake lathe is key: you (obviously) need the swept area and WMS front/back to be dead-nuts parallel.

I could make a jig to do it, but I'd face it EVERY time it's been removed and reinstalled in a chuck to account for any variations in mounting.....and then you still have the problem of how to take a cut on BOTH sides of the rotor without flipping it around (brake lathes obviously are built just for this)
 
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