Caravan and transmissions

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Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
I think you would have better luck finding a well maintained used Caravan for a decent price than a well maintained Odyssey or Sienna.

Many owners of Hondas and Toyotas unfortunately view them as "maintenance free" so they just drive them until they start having issues then sell them. The ones who maintain them know they are sought after and demand a premium price.


Yep. I've ruled out Honda and Toyota (despite really wanting to stay all Toyota, I have all the tools I need already!) on price. Heck, I'm tempted to do the typical thing: run my two Camry's to 200k with as little work and then "dump them" for the next person to deal with all the nickle and dime stuff. Have to see what I do when they need big repairs.

Originally Posted By: itguy08
Originally Posted By: supton
Why would I get rid of a car just because repair cost exceeds value? I get the idea of not dumping repair after repair into a car. But let's just pretend for a moment: buy an otherwise well maintained vehicle for pennies on the dollar (under a grand let's say), put in a $2k transmission and get 100k out of it. Sounds rather cheap to me.


Cause the rest of the mechanicals have that old mileage/age/whatever. You're making a big assumption that a rebuild transmission would go another 100k. So you now spent $3k on, say an 18 year old vehicle with, what, 150k on it? The engine is 150k and may not have had the best maintenance. The rest of the vehicle is 150k so that could mean lots of suspension parts or lots of rust depending on where you are. All $$$ on a car that's old enough to vote.

Would be much better to take that $3k as a downpayment on something a little newer or even buy multiple under $1k cars and drive them until the first big repair and then dump them. That's my thinking - I'd rather not dump thousands into an old car to keep it limping along.


A rebuild should go just as long as the original, otherwise it was not well done.

I spent $3k on my 17 year old Camry, between purchase and repairs. 2yr and 44k later I'd say I'm doing ok. Why can't I repeat that? When my VW was 8 or 9 years old & had 250k on the clock I dropped something like $3k one summer into it and got another 60k out of it (turbo and clutch). Cheap money as they say.

I get your point, but I don't see why it's not doable. Maybe not with a Caravan, they seem to be sketchy with age, but you get the idea.
 
Originally Posted By: itguy08

All from Wikipedia...

Pentastar - 230-305 hp, 210-268 lb-ft
Ford 3.5 NA (port)- 265-290 hp, 250-255 lb-ft
GM 3.6 (port) - 242-275 hp, 232-253 lb-ft
Nissan VQ (port) - 228-300 hp, 246-274 lb-ft
Toyota 2GR-FE (port) - 268-396 hp, 248-260 lb-ft

So it's about where everyone else is. Great for a Mopar but not the revolutionary engine the Mopar fanatics make it out to be.


Why would you include the pentastar 3.0L and 3.2L displacements for the range of HP and TQ in your comparison to the 3.5L engines
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ

Why would you include the pentastar 3.0L and 3.2L displacements for the range of HP and TQ in your comparison to the 3.5L engines


Copy/paste from Wikipedia - even still with the 3.6:
Pentastar - 275-305 hp, 251-268 lb-ft
Ford 3.5 NA (port)- 265-290 hp, 250-255 lb-ft
GM 3.6 (port) - 242-275 hp, 232-253 lb-ft
Nissan VQ (port) - 228-300 hp, 246-274 lb-ft
Toyota 2GR-FE (port) - 268-296 hp, 248-260 lb-ft
 
Originally Posted By: itguy08
Originally Posted By: KrisZ

Why would you include the pentastar 3.0L and 3.2L displacements for the range of HP and TQ in your comparison to the 3.5L engines


Copy/paste from Wikipedia - even still with the 3.6:
Pentastar - 275-305 hp, 251-268 lb-ft
Ford 3.5 NA (port)- 265-290 hp, 250-255 lb-ft
GM 3.6 (port) - 242-275 hp, 232-253 lb-ft
Nissan VQ (port) - 228-300 hp, 246-274 lb-ft
Toyota 2GR-FE (port) - 268-296 hp, 248-260 lb-ft


So, with only Nissan being able to get 300hp, somehow Chrysler efforts are being played down as merely "great for Mopar".

One doesn't have to be a Mopar fanatic, which I'm certainly not having owned only one, in my signature, to see that it is one of the top contenders.
If this engine was produced by other manufacturers mentioned, I bet it would be regarded much differently.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ

So, with only Nissan being able to get 300hp, somehow Chrysler efforts are being played down as merely "great for Mopar".

One doesn't have to be a Mopar fanatic, which I'm certainly not having owned only one, in my signature, to see that it is one of the top contenders.
If this engine was produced by other manufacturers mentioned, I bet it would be regarded much differently.


It's a decent performer - it is .1L bigger than the others with the exception of GM so I'd expect power to be near the top. It's nowhere near the best engine ever as many of the Mopar guys would have you believe. It's a modern engine and something they need. But it's not the second coming or whatnot. It's another V6 and performs like the competition.
 
Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
Why not just buy a new Honda , Mazda or Toyota to transport the family ?
No way I’d buy a vehicle with so many known problems.

I’d buy a CX-5 sport model (base).


Live up to your screen name.
If the OP could afford one of the options you name, then he wouldn't be bottom fishing used Caravans.
 
Originally Posted By: itguy08
Originally Posted By: KrisZ

So, with only Nissan being able to get 300hp, somehow Chrysler efforts are being played down as merely "great for Mopar".

One doesn't have to be a Mopar fanatic, which I'm certainly not having owned only one, in my signature, to see that it is one of the top contenders.
If this engine was produced by other manufacturers mentioned, I bet it would be regarded much differently.


It's a decent performer - it is .1L bigger than the others with the exception of GM so I'd expect power to be near the top. It's nowhere near the best engine ever as many of the Mopar guys would have you believe. It's a modern engine and something they need. But it's not the second coming or whatnot. It's another V6 and performs like the competition.


The best it is not, I agree.
But 8 years later it is still being used in a wide variety of vehicle types, with minor alterations and returning competitive HP, TQ and fuel economy numbers, where others implemented DI. To me at least, it's a sign of a solid design.
 
So I test drove a 2014 with 80k on it. Not bad. Ok, it was a commercial used, so some wear and tear, big deal. Drives and rides and does what is expected. Low rust underneath but it was starting.

But while the engine was responsive the trans programming was weird. I turned off Econ and it still seemed to lag, then double downshift before it would pull. Laggy shifting? But then one time it decided to just downshift twice then upshift once... blame it on being used I guess. I noticed it has an mpg readout and it said 18.5mpg, but no idea if that was lifetime or last tank. Had an oil leak that was fixed (front airdam drenched) (hadn't been detailed yet) (bit young for oil leaks isn't it?).

Biggest gripe, and what is probably easiest to adjust to, was the brake pedal height. Felt huge. Was glad the first time I went from gas to brake was in a parking lot. Took a bit of effort to remember that. But would it be a problem when swapping between my vehicles? [The other two Camry's would be staying.]

Black interior, warm on a hot summer day as expected. Low a/c output or fan just not high enough? Short ride so no idea. No glare, so call it a draw. Leather wrapped steering wheel. Kinda odd, not sure I cared for. Auto up/down on front windows, good. Cubbyholes here and there. Rear gate was not powered, and no rear backup camera, makes me wonder--are those important to me? Good visibility, less blindspots I think than my truck. Space galore. Should take the kids next time and see how they like it.

Spare tire is in the middle of the vehicle? Not sure how that works out when you need to use it. I'm guessing one better have a flat on flat ground.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
...

Black interior, warm on a hot summer day as expected. Low a/c output or fan just not high enough? Short ride so no idea. No glare, so call it a draw. Leather wrapped steering wheel. Kinda odd, not sure I cared for. Auto up/down on front windows, good. Cubbyholes here and there. Rear gate was not powered, and no rear backup camera, makes me wonder--are those important to me? Good visibility, less blindspots I think than my truck. Space galore. Should take the kids next time and see how they like it.

...


Some tint may solve that. Or at least help . It does help in my Mazda5.
Backup camera: aren't you an electrical engineer?

Re: trans: maybe needs have some fluid exchange/drain-and-fill and re-learn to your/wife's style?

Have you used craigslist/cars/autotrader/edmunds/etc etc search with about 250 miles from your zipcode for a minivan bodystyle? sort by price or mileage to lowest...

Since a minivan may be a bit heavier, you may have to plan for a bit more tires....
 
Rear windows are tinted, but I know my family--we're complete wusses when it comes to heat.

Yep, I'd probably just rig up some sort of camera on the cheap. Would it be nicer to have an OEM setup? Yep.

I don't know how much the trans adapts to driver style. I'm sure there's some reset procedure but it just felt odd. If that is how it drove then I suspect I wouldn't let my wife drive it. As in, I wouldn't be able to stand the complaining. She daily drives a stickshift and has a low tolerance to poor automatics (she complains about my truck, but refuses to use the manual shift mode).

Yes, looking at Car Gurus, Autotrader, CL.

Yes, planning on it being a tire eater. Actually trying to make sure I get a van with steelies so I can find another set of steelies and get snow tires.

Overall, given the repairs it needed, and how it felt / how it had worn, I did get the impression that earlier posters were right: this is something of a disposable vehicle (all vehicles are disposable, some moreso than others, and some because of the nature of their job). If cost/mile is the same I have to wonder if I'd be better off buying new up front. This was $12k with 80k on the clock. New is $20-23k, give or take. If lifespan is 200k, give or take, then there's no real value to buying used, and all the more for new.
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All the ones I've been eyeing, if you assume 10c/m depreciation and 200k lifespan, then that's how the numbers stack up.
 
My grandma's 14' has pretty aggressive transmission tuning. When you go to pass on the freeway, it'll jump down a couple gears and take off like a race car!

Every time I've driven it I put it in Eco mode to make it drive what I consider "normal".

A/C not blowing hard could be a dirty cabin air filter.
 
I forgot something:
Sell your pop-up locally.
The truck before going to dealer trade, check the Carmax valuation.

My '08 Yaris sedan, 64k miles, one owner, one accident fetched about 4k.
Dealer estimates where 2k-2.5k .
 
Popup will be sold on CL. Carmax value on the truck is about what is to be expected (already went to see). I haven't decided if I want to try CL on the truck--the camper will get priced to go while the truck I want more than firesale. I decided to not take my truck to work today to avoid any temptation to buy anything on the spot. I'm guessing the MB dealer really loved me driving around their lot with my ratty Camry.

Nick, new cabin filter supposedly. Just didn't drive long enough I think, test drives are usually too short to really get a good feel.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Popup will be sold on CL. Carmax value on the truck is about what is to be expected (already went to see). I haven't decided if I want to try CL on the truck--the camper will get priced to go while the truck I want more than firesale. I decided to not take my truck to work today to avoid any temptation to buy anything on the spot. I'm guessing the MB dealer really loved me driving around their lot with my ratty Camry.

Nick, new cabin filter supposedly. Just didn't drive long enough I think, test drives are usually too short to really get a good feel.


When I bought my Mazda5, I did a FULL fit test drive:
kids, wife, car chairs, one box disguised as luggage...
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
Why not just buy a new Honda , Mazda or Toyota to transport the family ?
No way I’d buy a vehicle with so many known problems.

I’d buy a CX-5 sport model (base).


Live up to your screen name.
If the OP could afford one of the options you name, then he wouldn't be bottom fishing used Caravans.


I did make a ** correction ** and said 'used'.
 
Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
Why not just buy a new Honda , Mazda or Toyota to transport the family ?
No way I’d buy a vehicle with so many known problems.

I’d buy a CX-5 sport model (base).


Live up to your screen name.
If the OP could afford one of the options you name, then he wouldn't be bottom fishing used Caravans.


I did make a ** correction ** and said 'used'.


I did notice that, and I didn't take offense. I just ignored your suggestion as I didn't like it.
wink.gif
 
Drove a 2015 and then a pair of '15 Sienna's. This DGC seemed to hold gears better, BUT I noticed something: it lets off power on shifting? I don't recall that in the '14. If it lets off power during shifts that is a good thing, but I just don't recall feeling that in the '14.

The Sienna's definitely feel more polished like they say. Feel more like my other Toyota's. But IMO the track for the seats is a bad idea (magnet for garbage), and to get a flat floor you have to remove the center row. Also felt bigger, heavier, more wallow, overboosted steering. These two Sienna's though had definite war wounds. I can see why people would step up a few grand but in the overall picture I'm not sure I liked the Sienna better.

One surprise was how hard the door pulls on the electric doors were for all of them. I was expecting easier.
 
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