Just purchased a 2021 Lincoln Corsair Grand Touring, which is a hybrid. Any recommendations on oil? I generally go with Mobil 1 0-20 for most all of my recent cars. However, now I have a fully-electric Mustang and the Corsair.
At face value that’s true. In practice I’m not sure.Nothing special about the hybrid when it comes to the oil. Just use the spec and weight the owners manual says.
Some brands are marketing "Hybrid" themed oilsAt face value that’s true. In practice I’m not sure.
I can be driving on the interstate at 70MPH, and have just had a decent load climbing a hill, heat soaked engine, etc., and it will just shut off.
To me that’s a good recipe to cook stuff slowly but surely. Even if there’s an electric coolant and oil pump that keeps things moving.
That’s why I am more concerned about oxidative resistance and stability for hybrids than for regular ICE.
Ive had good success with M1 EP in my accord. I recently changed to HPL 0w-20 for the same reasons i mentioned…
I’ve wondered the same thing.Some brands are marketing "Hybrid" themed oils
I wonder if there's a tangible difference in the scenario you described, or is it just marketing money on the label?
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My accord goes about 14k miles per oci. Maybe a few thousand aren’t running the ICE. That’s why I picked M1EP, and now HPL.I have a hybrid Ford Maverick I am using Mobil 1 0-20. Mobil said it is good for 10,000 miles but I will not run that far before changing. I will go by the oil change computer and change when it gets to 25%.
Marketing at its best.Some brands are marketing "Hybrid" themed oils
I wonder if there's a tangible difference in the scenario you described, or is it just marketing money on the label?
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If the fluids keep moving but the engine's mechanicals stop, what's the thermal difference between that an just taking your foot off the throttle in a "normal" drivetrain. The heat inputs into the system stop but fluids keep going. Maybe there are (two) exhaust valves in there that are pretty warm and stop open, without a valve seat to carry away heat. But then again, the heat input into those valves just stopped too.I can be driving on the interstate at 70MPH, and have just had a decent load climbing a hill, heat soaked engine, etc., and it will just shut off.
To me that’s a good recipe to cook stuff slowly but surely. Even if there’s an electric coolant and oil pump that keeps things moving.
Likely added corrosion inhibitors, mainly for the plug-in hybrids.Some brands are marketing "Hybrid" themed oils
I wonder if there's a tangible difference in the scenario you described, or is it just marketing money on the label?
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To be honest, I don’t know. More likely the water pump is electric than the oil pump.If the fluids keep moving but the engine's mechanicals stop, what's the thermal difference between that an just taking your foot off the throttle in a "normal" drivetrain. The heat inputs into the system stop but fluids keep going. Maybe there are (two) exhaust valves in there that are pretty warm and stop open, without a valve seat to carry away heat. But then again, the heat input into those valves just stopped too.
Or are there not really electric pumps for those fluids?
Likely added corrosion inhibitors, mainly for the plug-in hybrids.
Pretty much what I doing. Last OCI was 7750 miles and the dash readout was 30% left .I have a hybrid Ford Maverick I am using Mobil 1 0-20. Mobil said it is good for 10,000 miles but I will not run that far before changing. I will go by the oil change computer and change when it gets to 25%.
My equivalent list, in chronological order:List of the oils I’ve used in the Toyota Hybrid. I cannot tell the difference between any of it with 5K OCIs. All quality stuff. I just pick up whatever is on sale or rebate. Knocking on the door of 80K miles.
Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 0W16
Valvoline Advanced 0W16
Pennzoil Platinum 0W16
Mobil1 AFE 0W16
Pennzoil Platinum 0W20