2011 Ford F150 or 2011 Chevy Silverado??

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Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by PotatoFarmer77w
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Skip both and get a 2011 Toyota Tundra


Tundras really hold their resell values very well. I could easily get a newer gen used 150/silverado instead of a 2011 tundra that has lots of miles.

This is a prime example of "newer is not always better". Personally, I would rather own a 150k mile Tundra than a 120k mile Silverado or a 90k mile F150, assuming that all of them were well maintained and not abused. Also, Toyota tends to provide support to their customers long after a vehicle is out of warranty (I have personal experience with this), Ford and GM don't.


Good point. Since I live in the rust belt they all get rusty eventually, no matter its Chevy or ford or Toyota. If I can find a well maintained and not stupidly overpriced tundra I'd interested in it as well.
 
Check the MPG on any of them … that's one Toyota tradition that did not always roll into the Tundra …
 
Originally Posted by PotatoFarmer77w

Good point. Since I live in the rust belt they all get rusty eventually, no matter its Chevy or ford or Toyota. If I can find a well maintained and not stupidly overpriced tundra I'd interested in it as well.


Don't go back too far then: Toyota Rusty Frame Settlement . Don't get the allure of the Toyota - they are OK trucks but not heads and shoulders above the Ford/GM offerings.

If you're going to expand the search maybe a Titan too?
 
Both good choices, the Tundra is good for sure but not without issues either. I think some of the early Tundras had camshaft issues and up to '11 they had issues with bad air pumps(more expensive than it sounds). The 5.0 F-150 would be a good choice, i would avoid the Ecoboost for that year as it was the first.

I think the key with any of these choices is finding one that has been well maintained! That's why i bought my '10 F-150; it is VERY clean and motor is spotless. I know the early 5.4's had issues but they were pretty well resolved by '08.
 
Are MPG and ride a huge concern?

Because I bet for what you pay for those you can find a nice 6.0/4L80E 3/4 ton Chevy/GMC and they are pretty much bullet proof and really better than all the 1/2 tons mentioned.
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
Check the MPG on any of them … that's one Toyota tradition that did not always roll into the Tundra …

That is why I recommended the 4.6L V/8 over the 5.7L V/8 in the Tundra. The 5.7L is a stout engine, but it is a gas hog. The Silverado 5.3L EPA rating is 15/21 and has 323HP. The Tundra 4.6L EPA rating is 15/20 and has 310HP. Pretty close numbers. In real world use, there won't be much of a difference. Also, like I pointed out before, the Tundra does not have the irritating and problematic AFM system which likely accounts for the 1 mpg difference in highway mileage. If the AFM is disabled on the Silverado, the Tundra will probably get better real world mileage on the highway.
 
I dunno--I'm a Toyota fanboi but I'm not sure I'd recommend the 4.6 over the 5.7. If you surf the Tundra forums pretty much no one recommends the 4.6. Only if you don't use "heavily" and if you can get a good deal. Otherwise it's usually worth the extra cost.

I have the 4.6, and IMO it's only tolerable if one gets it with the tow package (4.10:1 final drive versus 3.90:1 stock) (5.7 uses 4.30:1 for reference). Mine just likes to kick out of top gear a bit too often IMO on hills; I think it's just a little too little motor. Now, it's easily fixed around town by locking out upper gears, but... Cruise control used to be a real problem with these trucks. Wasn't uncommon for it to downshift twice and then hunt. Final gearing is just too high unloaded. Leave sixth locked out when driving 60mph or less on ground that isn't dead flat.

Now I have hypermiled it to 20 and almost 21mpg. But when you compare it to the domestics... not worth mentioning. Right now mine gets driven on weekends and on rare trips and is hanging out around 16mpg. EPA rating for 4.6/tow package/double cab/4x4 was 13/19, and I don't think it increased in the new 2.5 generation. In winter time, on snow tires, I've never seen more than 16mpg (to hit 20 I had to use LTX's in summer with the a/c off and nice gentle driving).

[Speaking of which, in 2010 my truck had an 8,300lb tow rating. In 2011 it dropped to 7,900lb. With the gen 2.5 it dropped to... 6,500lb. Just what is the tow rating on my truck anyhow? Usually in the half ton towing wars one sees jumps upward for no good reason!]

I liked mine, although I'm starting to tire of it a bit. Visibility around the massive pillars is my big complaint (although hoisting those massive wheels is starting to really wear on me too). Oil change is a bit of pain, have to remove 5 bolts to drop the skidplate, then you have to deal with the oil filter housing. My Camry needs the same tool so it's not a big deal but for some it would be.

I've only had mine for six years and 70k (bought with 73k, at 145k now), I've had to do routine work (plugs, oil, belt) but also had to clean the intake valve, replace the serpentine tensioner, a siezed caliper and all brake pads. I know one of the spark plug tubes is leaking oil but have yet to repair that.

I've tried to keep rust at bay on mine with Fluid Film, but there are places where it's clear that it's just not going to last. It's a Toyota, you know it will rust.

Anyhow, I still live in fear of the air injection pumps going (talk about sticker shock), and of the steering rack. The 5.7's are known to leak oil from the cam towers; I've never determined just how bad the problem is (if it's only a quart per 10k then who cares?). For some reason I've never heard of this oil leak on the 4.6. Nor the all-too-common Toyota water pump failures -- probably because 4.6's make up maybe 10% of Tundra sales. Front diffs were also a problem in some years, there was a TSB for it (bearing preload was not done right and a rebuild is necessary--I had it done at 80k but since it was under warranty I generally ignore it--but on the used market, beware!).

I've found the throttle to be touchy. Unfortunately, after replacing pads and the caliper I've also found the brakes a bit unresponsive; but that might be from poor pad bite and/or residual air in the caliper. Oh, and how can I forget? expect typical numb Toyota steering. Zero feel whatsoever. Which might be expected in a truck but still, it's got no on-center dead spot to prevent lane wandering.
 
Originally Posted by itguy08
Originally Posted by PotatoFarmer77w

Good point. Since I live in the rust belt they all get rusty eventually, no matter its Chevy or ford or Toyota. If I can find a well maintained and not stupidly overpriced tundra I'd interested in it as well.


Don't go back too far then: Toyota Rusty Frame Settlement . Don't get the allure of the Toyota - they are OK trucks but not heads and shoulders above the Ford/GM offerings.

If you're going to expand the search maybe a Titan too?



Thanks for the article! This does remind me of the rust issues with some Toyotas.

I'm not so familiar with the titan. I don't see them a lot...
 
Originally Posted by ls1mike
Are MPG and ride a huge concern?

Because I bet for what you pay for those you can find a nice 6.0/4L80E 3/4 ton Chevy/GMC and they are pretty much bullet proof and really better than all the 1/2 tons mentioned.


MPG is a huge concern. I don't really need a 3/4 to do some heavy works. For now I only have a small pop up camper that weights only 1500lb dry.
 
5.0&6.2l are pretty good. Eco boost has issues. Paint can cost as much as a motor. Peeling paint made me crazy over time. Every time I looked at my truck I hated it.
 
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Originally Posted by itguy08
Originally Posted by PotatoFarmer77w

Good point. Since I live in the rust belt they all get rusty eventually, no matter its Chevy or ford or Toyota. If I can find a well maintained and not stupidly overpriced tundra I'd interested in it as well.


Don't go back too far then: Toyota Rusty Frame Settlement .

Toyota identified and rectified the problem before 2009 on the Tundras. They also replaced all of the affected frames at no charge.
 
Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by itguy08
Originally Posted by PotatoFarmer77w

Good point. Since I live in the rust belt they all get rusty eventually, no matter its Chevy or ford or Toyota. If I can find a well maintained and not stupidly overpriced tundra I'd interested in it as well.


Don't go back too far then: Toyota Rusty Frame Settlement .

Toyota identified and rectified the problem before 2009 on the Tundras. They also replaced all of the affected frames at no charge.

Nothing against Toyota, but I still wouldn't want a truck where the Frame was swapped out at the dealership no matter who makes the truck.
 
Originally Posted by PotatoFarmer77w
Originally Posted by ls1mike
Are MPG and ride a huge concern?

Because I bet for what you pay for those you can find a nice 6.0/4L80E 3/4 ton Chevy/GMC and they are pretty much bullet proof and really better than all the 1/2 tons mentioned.


MPG is a huge concern. I don't really need a 3/4 to do some heavy works. For now I only have a small pop up camper that weights only 1500lb dry.


I get 15ish empty with my truck and 8ish towing. It is a trade off for sure, but I don't daily drive mine.

Do you ever plan on getting a bigger trailer?
 
Originally Posted by 2strokeNorthstar
5.0&6.2l are pretty good. Eco boost has issues.


What issues for the EB? Only ones I keep hearing are timing chains and condensation/limp mode. Timing chains seem to be a thing if you use cheap oil or extended intervals. The condensation issue was fixed with the latest TSB. I'd buy another in a heartbeat - it's got the power of a Diesel and does very well with our camper.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by ls1mike
Originally Posted by PotatoFarmer77w
Originally Posted by ls1mike
Are MPG and ride a huge concern?

Because I bet for what you pay for those you can find a nice 6.0/4L80E 3/4 ton Chevy/GMC and they are pretty much bullet proof and really better than all the 1/2 tons mentioned.


MPG is a huge concern. I don't really need a 3/4 to do some heavy works. For now I only have a small pop up camper that weights only 1500lb dry.


I get 15ish empty with my truck and 8ish towing. It is a trade off for sure, but I don't daily drive mine.

Do you ever plan on getting a bigger trailer?


For the next few years except some uhaul run for friends, my little camper would be the only thing I tow. Maybe I'll upgrade my camper but nothing over 5000lb. Any of these trucks with a tow package can handle up tp 8000lb and that's well enough for me.
 
Originally Posted by ls1mike
Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by itguy08
Originally Posted by PotatoFarmer77w

Good point. Since I live in the rust belt they all get rusty eventually, no matter its Chevy or ford or Toyota. If I can find a well maintained and not stupidly overpriced tundra I'd interested in it as well.


Don't go back too far then: Toyota Rusty Frame Settlement .

Toyota identified and rectified the problem before 2009 on the Tundras. They also replaced all of the affected frames at no charge.

Nothing against Toyota, but I still wouldn't want a truck where the Frame was swapped out at the dealership no matter who makes the truck.

The frame rust problem was on the 07-08 Tundras built in Indiana. The OP is looking for something newer, so he will not have to worry about purchasing a truck that has had the frame replaced. The 2010 and newer Tundras have the 4.6L V/8 with timing chains and 6-speed automatic as well as numerous mechanical improvements and safety enhancements. Is the Tundra perfect? Of course not, NONE of the trucks are, but it is certainly at the top of the truck heap when it comes to reliability/durability.
The Nissan Titan is also worthy of consideration. Personally, in addition to the Silverado, I would consider it or even a RAM before I would consider purchasing another Ford. The Titan's 5.6L V/8 is strong and nearly bullet-proof, but like the Tundra's 5.7L V/8 it is also a gas hog.
BTW, I like the way that the RAM half-ton trucks drive. IMO they ride and drive better than ANY of the other trucks
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
Wasn't the frame problem on Tundra, Taco's, and SUV's

Yep. Real question is, does the problem extend into the later years?
21.gif


Don't get me wrong, this problem is easy to spot. It's a truck, just crawl underneath and look. If it's crusty, walk. If it's got paint and looks good, then don't worry about it.

Personally, on a Tundra I'd be more worried about the other issues (AIP, steering rack, front diff, water pump). clinebarger pointed out in a different thread that starter replacement is a bear on these (it's in the engine valley or some place like that).
 
Originally Posted by itguy08
Originally Posted by 2strokeNorthstar
5.0&6.2l are pretty good. Eco boost has issues.


What issues for the EB? Only ones I keep hearing are timing chains and condensation/limp mode. Timing chains seem to be a thing if you use cheap oil or extended intervals. The condensation issue was fixed with the latest TSB. I'd buy another in a heartbeat - it's got the power of a Diesel and does very well with our camper.

I have to admit, if I was buying a 5 year old truck with 100k on the clock, I'd be wary of this timing chain issue. It seems like, if the PO followed Ford's recommendation, then the chains are suspect. Maybe it's a 1% failure rate--but I'd hate to roll the dice. Maybe if they had proof of 5W30 usage and/or I was ok with paying the cost of a potential timing chain job.

OP doesn't sound like he needs the EB though. Nice, but not needed. Almost sounds like the V6's of late would work. 300hp is enough to move a small trailer with ease. Only problem is, it's really only the last 5 years or less that have really brought forth "good" NA V6's. Otherwise a simple V8.
 
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by 4WD
Wasn't the frame problem on Tundra, Taco's, and SUV's

Yep. Real question is, does the problem extend into the later years?
21.gif


Don't get me wrong, this problem is easy to spot. It's a truck, just crawl underneath and look. If it's crusty, walk. If it's got paint and looks good, then don't worry about it.

Personally, on a Tundra I'd be more worried about the other issues (AIP, steering rack, front diff, water pump). clinebarger pointed out in a different thread that starter replacement is a bear on these (it's in the engine valley or some place like that).


The earlier 4.7L 2UZ-FE powered Tundra had the starter under the intake manifold,Which in my opinion wasn't all that bad & Toyota DID make it easier than the original 4.0L 1UZ-FE found in the 1st generation LS400/GS400.

The 4.6L 1UR-FE & 5.7L 3UR-FE have the starter located in a traditional location (Same as Ford, Dodge, & GM). Access to it on the other hand is more difficult than is should be!
The RH Catalytic Converter assembly, Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield, Oil Dipstick Tube & Exhaust Manifold must be removed before you can do all the normal starter removal steps required of the Domestics.
I have seen the aftermath of "DIY'ers" attempting this job.......Mangling the heat shields or just flat leaving them off, Bending the trans cooler water pipes, & Omitting fasteners

In the rust belt......I'm sure this is an even bigger job!

The more disturbing thing I've noticed since @ 2002-2006......Toyota is "cheapening" their products!
Let's take the 2UZ-FE starter for example, Your common overbuilt reduction Denso gear drive starter.....Probably one of best designs EVER produced! If it does go down, Throw a plunger & contacts in it & it will go another 250,000 miles.

The UR engines use a "Compact-Planetary" style starter that's a throw-away design just like the domestic's use except it cost more for the Toyota/Denso name.

Some picture from a 2010 3UR-FE starter I did a couple months back.....The arrow show where the starter is buried.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]
 
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