2014 Ram 1500 Tradesman vs 2015 Ford F150 XL

5.5 foot bed can be tough with a lawn tractor. Some will fit, others don't... (At least if you want the tailgate up). Ask me how I know...
 
Today im no closer in making a decision. Both are awsome when you drive them.

I am no Mopar/Stellantis fan, but I'd choose the RAM because the Crew Cab configuration will be much more appealing if you want to sell it in the distant future. The extra-cab only appeals to a limited market. Also, the $3500-$4000 savings will buy a lot of gas and parts if needed!

If you are still at a stalemate, pick the one that has the nicer interior or the color you prefer!!! Subconsciously, you will appreciate that every time you drive it. As it stands, I don't think either truck is a bad choice.
 
Ok so more to report:

2014 Dodge Ram:
-Needs a new tranny pan assy with integral filter, and most likely 2 fluid changes. No svc record on tranny upkeep. This concerns me if the oem fluid has 190k.
-With 190k it will need all fluids serviced asap.
-The oil filter housing was replaced at the ~86k range and is seeping. I will want to upgrade to dorman aluminum but not emergency.
-Pass side cv shaft and stub shaft have very excessive spline wear. Probably needs addressed ASAP.
-Drv side cv and stub shaft have 50% less slop, but will need addressed in the next year or so as it is loose.
-Owning an FCA with their electrical gremlins and the infamous TIPM failures does concern me. But it is mint.
-I must remove the aluminum tonneau cover and replace with a cap. (Expensive to find even used ones)

2015 F150 XL:
-I must add cruise control. This will require a new steering wheel and a trip to the stealership.
-Same thing, no records to indicate tranny svc, and at 138k the fluid is not good. Pretty stale smelling. Easy to do and im familiar with fords tranny fluid exchange procedure and adaptive reset.
-Not emergency at 138k but all fluids will need serviced like the dodge.
-Frame has orange corrosion but no rot yet, so it will be painful to wire wheel and repaint the frame + wool wax it. I may opt to have the bed removed for extra accesbility. Dodge is already mint and ready for woolwax.
-Im picky so rear bumper should be removed and on the inside completely acid washed, needled, and repainted before woolwaxing. Otherwise in a few winters it will begin to rot from the inside out.
-And overall the truck feels more plain jane than the dodge, but on the flip side rides very heavy duty and durable feeling. Not a single rattle or noise. Just perfect ride.
 
Judging by your sig, you're a serious ford guy. That means the second something goes wrong in the Ram you'll be kicking yourself ("shoulda bought the ford"), whereas you'll be more forgiving with problems in the Ford.

Human nature being what it is (I'm guilty of this as well), I'd say buy the Ford as subconsciously you'll be much happier with it overall, regardless of which truck is objectively better (and at this point its very hard to say one way or the other anyway, both have pros and cons).
 
UPDATE:

Ended up settling on the Dodge Ram 1500 with the high miles.

Im a ford guy at heart, but I shockingly do enjoy the ram as much. It rides like a dream and is cleaner than any truck I have ever owned. The true deciding factor was the frame still shines like factory and it has never been repainted, it already has cruise, and the 4 full doors work well for me and my trips to camp. Oh well.....I tad less fire wood with the 5.7' bed over the 6'.

I changed the fluid and pan on the 845RE, and will do it again very soon. The very common torque converter shudder that occurs on all of these has been reduced in half. And it now only does it when cold. Hopefully another fluid drain and fill will solve this completely. I was hesitant to do a full fluid exchange with a machine as I do not know the full history.
 
UPDATE:

Ended up settling on the Dodge Ram 1500 with the high miles.

Im a ford guy at heart, but I shockingly do enjoy the ram as much. It rides like a dream and is cleaner than any truck I have ever owned. The true deciding factor was the frame still shines like factory and it has never been repainted, it already has cruise, and the 4 full doors work well for me and my trips to camp. Oh well.....I tad less fire wood with the 5.7' bed over the 6'.

I changed the fluid and pan on the 845RE, and will do it again very soon. The very common torque converter shudder that occurs on all of these has been reduced in half. And it now only does it when cold. Hopefully another fluid drain and fill will solve this completely. I was hesitant to do a full fluid exchange with a machine as I do not know the full history.
I don’t recall there being torque converter shudder issues on the ZF based 845RE (not to be confused with whatever GM called their 8 speed), but it could be more of a Ram thing than a Durango/Charger/Challenger thing. I beat the snot out of my 300 with that transmission and it never once shuddered, but it wasn’t high miles and now I have a German made ZF 8HP70 in my Ram.
 
I don’t recall there being torque converter shudder issues on the ZF based 845RE (not to be confused with whatever GM called their 8 speed), but it could be more of a Ram thing than a Durango/Charger/Challenger thing. I beat the snot out of my 300 with that transmission and it never once shuddered, but it wasn’t high miles and now I have a German made ZF 8HP70 in my Ram.
Good to know. I have felt it in a lot of different 8 speeds GM included. Some ford E4OD, 4R100, and 4R70w do it as well. Normally on fords a requires fresh fluid and an adaptive learning reset.
 
UPDATE:

Ended up settling on the Dodge Ram 1500 with the high miles.

Nice!

Sounds like you are addressing any of the 4th gen Ram 1500 concerns. I think the problem with the front right stub shaft deal is Ram will want to sell you a whole new front carrier assembly. I'm not sure OEM or aftermarket individual parts exist for this issue.

You really don't hear of TIPM problems with the 2013+ or green, crusty connectors or grounds for that matter. I have heard of water/corrosion in the motor part of the E-steering.

It was very wise to change the pan/filter. Ram will say it's lifetime. If you ask ZF, they recommend 60K mile fluid changes. I don't think replacement 845REs are all that expensive. Not a huge demand for them because they seem to last.

The only other common Ram 1500 problem is the parking brake. Does it work? The cam levers that poke through the rear dust shields (where the cables attach) let moisture wick in and the actuators rust solid. You can get lucky and free them up by working them forward and back while spraying them with lube. If they're more stubborn, pull the rear rotors for better access to them to see if you can free them up. If they do work, slather them with an anti-seize of your choice. This issue was a problem for both my 2017 and 2019 Ram 1500 classics. One or two salt belt winters is all it takes.
 
Nice!

Sounds like you are addressing any of the 4th gen Ram 1500 concerns. I think the problem with the front right stub shaft deal is Ram will want to sell you a whole new front carrier assembly. I'm not sure OEM or aftermarket individual parts exist for this issue.

You really don't hear of TIPM problems with the 2013+ or green, crusty connectors or grounds for that matter. I have heard of water/corrosion in the motor part of the E-steering.

It was very wise to change the pan/filter. Ram will say it's lifetime. If you ask ZF, they recommend 60K mile fluid changes. I don't think replacement 845REs are all that expensive. Not a huge demand for them because they seem to last.

The only other common Ram 1500 problem is the parking brake. Does it work? The cam levers that poke through the rear dust shields (where the cables attach) let moisture wick in and the actuators rust solid. You can get lucky and free them up by working them forward and back while spraying them with lube. If they're more stubborn, pull the rear rotors for better access to them to see if you can free them up. If they do work, slather them with an anti-seize of your choice. This issue was a problem for both my 2017 and 2019 Ram 1500 classics. One or two salt belt winters is all it takes.
I can get a kit that includes the stub shaft and aftermarket cv shaft. I will detach the upper ball joint on the driver side and yank the CV off and pack it full of marine spline grease to keep that one from failing.

Glad to hear the TIPM is not too big of issue. Currently battling this with a freinds 2011 jeep liberty. Might scrap that vehicle as nobody can diagnose it once it goes to the shop it magically starts to work.

For the pan I sprung for the OEM one as I was not sure how good the aftermarket filters are in terms of flow. And I honestly dont mind getting fluid on me taking it off each time to change the fluid. Dorman looked good but I have used their other filters with mixed success. Some of them have fallen out of my crown vics and f150s with the 4r70w.

The parking brakes work right now as it is mint. I will slather those up with woolwax as well.
 
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Both are nice trucks but in my opinion the Ram will slightly out edge the Ford with a better ride, arguably a better engine w/o DI and the wonderful 8 spd trans.
 
I own a Ford, but Ram trucks get my respect. For some reason they are laid out better under the hood and under the body than what I think I see when I get into a GM. I feel like Ram and Jeep engineers are more left alone to finish clean designs.

If after 2 fluid changes it has a little shudder, I would recommend a partial dose of live guard in the transmission. I’d start at 1/4 or 1/3 dose and just see how it does before adding more.

The Pentastar is a good engine, and you have one of the most comfortable half tons built. Solid choice. Enjoy!
 
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