$35k rust belt truck - how much rust is acceptable?

[Cujet]

Here in FL, very few vehicles have any corrosion. It is a good place to purchase. But if you choose to do that, I'd treat it immediately.

I drove my corrosion-free 2003 Jag X-Type from FL up to NY to have a vehicle up there. I am only there occasionally and don't drive the car in the winter there. Even so, the car is "suddenly" rusting like crazy. Underneath looks awful now, whereas before it was pristine. The hood has rust in the seams! The emergency brake cable even rusted in half. The bottom line, it was a rust free older car that in 4 years time is now solidly corroded.

Thinking about your needs, I'd start with new, and use the best treatment possible. Including treating inside the doors, frame and seams. And/or purchase an Aluminum F150 with the 2.7L Ecoboost.

Reasoning: You'll get the longest usable rust-free life that way.

Additionally, I am not at all convinced used vehicles save any money. I can make the case that on a cost per mile basis, there is no significant difference when accurately comparing class of vehicle.

 

[AZjeff]

Why do you need to take both vehicles down with you? Sell them locally and take any cash you make with you. You may find southern dealers offer you less for your northern vehicles because of the rust so this may benefit you financially anyway.

The more a vehicle is worth the harder it is to sell locally unless it's a "deal" I've found. And you have to take into account the tax advantage when trading, here that's close to 10%.

OP could tow dolly the Accord with the F150 but what does he do if he rightfully gets low-balled for rust after he's driven 6-8 hours? Dealing on new locally where rust is normal and doing the yearly rust prevention might be the least hassle.

 

[andrew_j]

None. Look further and have it shipped or drive it back. Sell your extra vehicle locally and trade the other.

 

[64bawagon]

When I sold my 2021 I had several tire kickers from the South wanting to buy it but none that were serious enough to put the trip together. They all said theres nothing down there for sale. In the past it was common to ship late model cars and light trucks from this area down to the South. They were less expensive here due to the number of people who got the GM discount and employees that were required to buy a new vehicle every 2 yrs or so. I delivered a few to the Little rock area.
The Silverado you showed looks pretty well maintained, the Rams dont. I would lean towards the Silverado and then pay to have it coated with Fluid film or similar. The Rams around here only get 6 yrs or so before the wheel arches on the bed are blown out, the Silverados about 10 unless they are undercoated.

 

[CarDoc66]

Stay far away from a Toyota, they run forever but rusty parts drop off while driving once it hits 7-10 years old. I've had four, I should know. My 2019 Tacoma requires a yearly scrape and treat all the rust that forms on the frame welds.
I have found that 3M cavity wax works better than a fluid product. It dries (not really dry, just waxy like a candle and DOES NOT wash off unless you power wash with hot water) translucent so you can see what's happening under there and is self healing. It is working much better on my latest Tacoma than liquid films in the past.....not as much touch up needed.

 

[Delta]

Take a road trip to some southern states and rust free trucks are plentiful for under $35K.

Doubt. They were selling a truck just like mine, minus the technology package for $5K more than I paid for my truck earlier this year. This was in Mississippi...

 

[JTK]

Unfortunately, you're not going to find a 3-4yr old rust belt light truck without this type of rust if the chassis/body is left untreated.

The chassis rust I see in the pics can be dealt with and then kept at bay with oil type rust proofing, but like you say, who wants to deal with that after spending $35k+.

I fear this is the new normal as we say.

FWIW, I own a 2022 Nissan Frontier crew cab 4x4 S-model. It's a decent small truck.

 

[supton]

That 2020 looks pretty bad, I wouldn’t touch it. The others… I find stuff rusts no matter what, treatment slows it down, but never stops.

Repair shops though are used to it. If you aren’t turning the wrenches on every repair, maybe it doesn’t matter as much. Treat it and hope for the best.

I think some dealerships are so hungry they might be willing to buy a car without you buying one in return. Maybe sell one locall, see if the numbers are ok. That might make going south more easy on the logistics.

 

[Cujet]

Remember this one thing. Rust is virtually impossible to stop. We can prevent it, but once it starts, good luck taming it.

 

[supton]

I fear this is the new normal as we say.

Yep, I have been just accepting this for a while. Costs a pretty penny, either trade every few years or attempt to slay the rust monster—only to then have fears about old car repair bills.

 

[avacado11]

Respectfully IMO governments should be ashamed they put stuff on the roads that destroy their citizens' property. I spent 48 years in NW Pa, all brands rust. For people who live in the rust belt it's a normal fact of life. Beyond destroying automobiles it's bad for the environment.

This is a map of the salt belt. Look how much of the country doesn't need corrosion resistant construction but has to pay for it, in reality subsidizing lower cost for rust belt residents through economy of scale since corrosion protection isn't region specific. I've wondered why some consumer protection group hasn't come forward demanding less corrosive alternatives be pursued and developed. The automakers aren't going to push for it. Living in the SW has it's own problems with vehicle maintenance but nothing compares to dealing with rust. I still marvel when I crack a nut loose on the original exhaust under a 20 YO SW vehicle and spin it off with my fingers.

"Go buy a southern vehicle" is kind of a boilerplate answer that just isn't practical for many people for lots of valid reasons but it's logical if it can be done.
View attachment 176609

For some reason once you get down southern PA the cars are super clean. NY just rusts because it’s usually damp here most of the winter. If it ain’t rain it’s sleet.

 

[avacado11]

2023 Nissan Frontier King Cab® S 4x2 starts at $30K.
2023 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab PRO-4X® 4x4 is $40K.
There is like a million trims in between those two prices.

Proving to be a good reliable truck, so far. 310-hp 3.8-liter V6, 9-speed automatic transmission. In future can be used to reliably haul replacement turbos for all other trucks that went Turbo-4cyl route.

I'd go with an oil based rust protection. Yes, requires reapplication 1-2 times per year, but still a better option than some undercoating that lets hidden rust to form.

Would really like a Frontier crew cab with the 6ft bed. No availability to order, and all of the 6ft SV trucks in stock are $43-44k which is more than I’d want to spend on an SV. It’d have to be a crew cab since I’m replacing my Accord.

I think I may just have the bite the bullet and buy a PA truck for $35k. What sucks is a lot of the NY trucks often get shipped down south only to be sold and make its way back up here.

 

[avacado11]

Unfortunately, you're not going to find a 3-4yr old rust belt light truck without this type of rust if the chassis/body is left untreated.

The chassis rust I see in the pics can be dealt with and then kept at bay with oil type rust proofing, but like you say, who wants to deal with that after spending $35k+.

I fear this is the new normal as we say.

FWIW, I own a 2022 Nissan Frontier crew cab 4x4 S-model. It's a decent small truck.

seems like once you’re at $40k the trucks are clean enough to still be saved. At that point I might as well spend $40k here since running down south will cost about the same anyways. As long as the truck is savable I don’t mind spending some money on rust prevention.

And if rust like the 2021 Ram is the new normal I’d be ok with it too. I mean it’s not too bad, especially for $35k. But you question how it was maintained/driven if the PO didn’t even take the time to wash it.

 

[mattd]

With that selection, I’d travel for a vehicle. And this is coming from someone that also
Lives in a rust belt state.

 

[avacado11]

see if the numbers are ok

Looking at the trade in numbers and they don’t look that good. Paid $22k for Accord, trade in is $11k. Paid $17k for F150, trade in is 9k.

I may just run the F150 into the ground and just trade the accord for another commuter in the spring. The whole idea came about because of the cost to run two vehicles. at this point I can either eat the depreciation or pay insurance/maintenance(which is an additional ~$2700 a year for the F150 repairs and insurance). It is nice to have two vehicles so whenever one needs repair I have another vehicle to drive

 

[supton]

Spare vehicle is good to have, especially as the fleet gets older and stuff randomly breaks. Or even just normal wear and tear. I think the mom and pop shops much prefer drop offs, if they can have it for a few days their scheduling gets easier. And you’re not sweating bullets waiting to get your only means of transportation back.

 

[JHZR2]

Here in FL, very few vehicles have any corrosion. It is a good place to purchase. But if you choose to do that, I'd treat it immediately.

I drove my corrosion-free 2003 Jag X-Type from FL up to NY to have a vehicle up there. I am only there occasionally and don't drive the car in the winter there. Even so, the car is "suddenly" rusting like crazy. Underneath looks awful now, whereas before it was pristine. The hood has rust in the seams! The emergency brake cable even rusted in half. The bottom line, it was a rust free older car that in 4 years time is now solidly corroded.

Thinking about your needs, I'd start with new, and use the best treatment possible. Including treating inside the doors, frame and seams. And/or purchase an Aluminum F150 with the 2.7L Ecoboost.

Reasoning: You'll get the longest usable rust-free life that way.

Additionally, I am not at all convinced used vehicles save any money. I can make the case that on a cost per mile basis, there is no significant difference when accurately comparing class of vehicle.

Something else is wrong if it went that fast.

Likely poor engineering and design for corrosion, or else too much exposure to salt air that weakened the protection in a. Way that you can’t see.

I think the former because it has to be deliberately done. Case in point, my Accord Hybrid and my wife’s odyssey. Bought within a month of each other. Both have about the same mileage. If anything, hers sees more salt than mine yet every fastener is rust free as is her vehicle. Entirely. Yet mine, while the body is rust free, most fasteners underhood or underneath show surface rust. An emergency brake cable rusting in half from “pristine” is just a no quality part.

The cars that live up here can corrode fast, but not that fast…

 

[wag123]

I’m trying to trade in both my vehicles so having to bring both down south is going to be a pain. Which is why I’m looking local and willing to accept some rust.

Figure the time and effort of going down south $35k might become $40k after all is said and done. $40k can buy cleaner trucks up here as they are usually 2022s with low mileage. Probably only seen one winter.

Sell your vehicles to CarMax. They will give you as much or more money for them as a trade-in at any dealer.
Living in Central Texas I can tell you that vehicles don't rust here, and they don't cost any more than what you will pay up there. Additionally, Texas is "pickup land", there are plenty of used trucks to choose from. Over 50% of the vehicles on the road in Texas are pickups. Just stay away from trucks that have spent their lives near the gulf coast.
You are not going to spend $5000 more to buy one here and drive or ship it back.

 

[dfarr67]

IF I was to spend that kind of money on a used truck (unlikely) I would budget in a trip south and get a rust free example amd maintain it with corrosion inhibiter's.

 

[JTK]

Would really like a Frontier crew cab with the 6ft bed. No availability to order, and all of the 6ft SV trucks in stock are $43-44k which is more than I’d want to spend on an SV. It’d have to be a crew cab since I’m replacing my Accord.

I know it's been talked about here in the past, but I wouldn't recommend a long bed CC Frontier anyway, due to their comically huge turning radius. It's only a feature on the long bed/wheel base CC models and continues with the 2022+ models.

The rear seat is pretty tight on them as well. An average sized adult would not be comfortable for long back there.

As much as I like my 2022 CC short wheel base, I couldn't imagine paying $40k+ for one. I bought mine lightly used in Oct 2022 for $33600+ttl and lost sleep over that. Lol.