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Am I crazy for doing this? This is the 2003 Mazda Tribute. I've used M1 filters but I'm out and will switch to Motorcraft

Since EDGE 0w20 is being called "quiet" it mustn't be a viscosity thing necessarily

XOM Synthetic Basestocks

Haven't read about anyone comparing them or did I miss it?

I've been adding plus and premium to my regular gas because I suspect the 87 octane gas may be a bit off from true 87 octane. If I was putting in 86 octane in my car, what are some things it would do?

Amsoil, Royal Purple would be my best guess. I'm guess Redline and Motul are > 50% Group 5 Esters?

It seems that SM didn't live very long. What if it never happened and the SL standard was held on to until what is now the SN standard? (yes I know SN would have then been called SM) Would we have lost out on all that much? Is the whole ZDDP thing and cats overblown?

Anyone have a Dual Clutch or CVT? How are those compared to a regular automatic or "slushbox" as some would call it?

Saw the WPP stamp on the bottom of these oil bottles. We should have a running list of what WPP makes!

I find myself preferring M1. After seeing how well it worked going 11k in a friend's car (the maligned 5w30 of all grades!) I got 3 cases of it when Costco had the special. I can't show you superior UOAs or anything. Oh yeah and for the Iron numbers, I'll just compensate by sticking old hard...

Any one else have this problem? I'd plan to do a 10k OCI and only make it to 7k miles. I wanted to go 7.5k miles on my FF but changed it at 4,750 miles. Thank goodness I'm getting my synthetic oil on sale.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140003463638_201003012241.pdf Was PYB a Syn Blend the whole time? This has identical specs to the old SM PYB http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140003385859_200912032232.pdf

So how bout it? We have enough data to make judgments about at least 2 of the 3 Premium Synthetics up there. Are EDGE, M1 EP, and PU better values than Boutiques like Red Line, Amsoil, and RLI?

M1 is too successful. All the most idiotic people use M1 because that's the default synthetic now. Idiotic because apparently, M1 is supposed to be this miracle product that is a failure if anything ever goes wrong with the car. Sludge under the valve cover? Can't be any reason other than oil...

So I know a lot of you guys say use what the owner's manual says. Well my friend's dad has a Hyundai Tuscon LX which has a 2.7L V6. The manual found in the glove says the following: (all degrees are in F) 5w20: under 15 degrees only 30: 0 to 105 degrees 0w30: below 50 degrees 5w30: 0 to 50...

Given all this evidence that Group III is just as good as Group IV or sometimes even better for things like the ability to hold additives, have Group V oils like ones used by Redline and Motul made the oil trusty PAO less relevant? Even M1 doesn't attempt to put more than 60% or so PAO in their...

Let's talk strictly about how different companies market their oil. Does PU's Ferrari marketing or sludge cleaning claims seem smart to you? I'm really impressed by how confidently they've come after us in BITOG but unfortunately, I can't get myself to pay $28 a jug. I don't think my cars are...

My car specs 5,000 mile severe and 7,500 mile normal. I might barely fit into the severe category. There are stop lights on my usual route but I get up to 55 miles per hour. Motorcraft 5w20 is the blend I'm thinking of. Would I be better with PYB?

Hey guys, how do you go about figuring out what oils they use for factory fills in new cars? Was wondering because I'm still on my 2010 Mazda3 Factory Fill. If I had to guess, it would be the Motorcraft 5w20 Synthetic Blend but then there's always a chance it's Eneos/Nippon Oil since it was...

My physical manual specifies 75w80 GL-4 only. Amsoil specs 70w80 GL-4 Online manual at Mazda's website specs either 75w90 or 80w90 allowing either GL-4 or GL-5 This is all on the 2.0L engine. What the heck!!??