Fram Ultra 3614 cut open. 4 years/24,350 miles.

Filter was on a 2002 ES300 for 4 years, 2 months. 24,350 total miles over three oil changes. 332,400 total miles on the car.

- Impressive as it sits horizontally under the exhaust header, which will bake ADBVs and cause drain-down.
- Robust appearance and no visible dirt/grit in pleats or in filter body.
- Any damage pictured is from cutting open the can and prying out the filter (can somewhat crushed in removing and I clipped the ADBV with the snips when opening).
- You may also note the can defeated the (apparently cheap) tin snips I was using and broke the tip off. ;)

I love these as I can skip the difficult filter change until the 3rd oil change, and not suffer for it. I replaced it with one I bought at the same time, back in 2019. This car was doing 15 to 20k miles a year, but not since Covid. New driver (my retired father) and much less miles. I refilled it with 5qts NAPA 10w30 full syn + 5ozs LubeGard Blue. I am not as strict about always using Mobil 1 10w-30 HM like I used to be; adding the LubeGard has made me relax a bit on that. Miles 150k to 300k were mostly all on M1 10w-30 HM.

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This is what is so demanding on filters on this engine (Toyota 1MZ-E). Filter is right under the exhaust header. I have to use a claw wrench to get them out and that usually crushes them. Most filter’s ADBV will cook fairly quickly but the Fram Ultra ones never do.
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It appears that the entry drainback valve is cut on the end. Also, you do know that this engine is a known sludger to put so many miles on a filter. It's just asking for it
 
Look closely at the third picture. The filter appears to be very loaded. Loaded filters may by-pass, even after the oil is hot.

My opinion is that 25k miles is way to many for this application.
I don’t think it is-there would be a LOT more debris in the can if it was loaded up. The 2-ply synthetic depth media OG filter is very hard to load up, the 19,700 mile XG3600 on my xB (2 10K M1 EP 5W30 OCIs) just had some carbon bits in the can, very little in the pleats. Mine looked like 30K+ was possible, although rust would have killed the can (bad paint, metal too thin).
 
I don’t think it is-there would be a LOT more debris in the can if it was loaded up. The 2-ply synthetic depth media OG filter is very hard to load up, the 19,700 mile XG3600 on my xB (2 10K M1 EP 5W30 OCIs) just had some carbon bits in the can, very little in the pleats. Mine looked like 30K+ was possible, although rust would have killed the can (bad paint, metal too thin).

It definitely was not loaded at all. You couldn’t wring anything out of it or scrape anything out of it. No debris anywhere. And you are correct, it would have been easy to do 30k or 40k with it in a very clean and clean-running engine like this.

Could you have used a larger 3600?

Yep, and someone mentioned that right away. I USED to use the oversize Motorcraft 400 (akin to 3600 - I think that’s the 400) and honestly don’t know why I didn’t - maybe the 3614 at the time was on a big sale or I forgot or something. In the future, I will.
 
This is from a field study on oil filter loading:

Oil Filter Clogging.jpg


From this, for a FRAM Ultra of this size with a ~10 g capacity, the filter life would be 60k km (37k miles) for the average car, but under 20k km (12k miles) for the dirtiest 10% of engines. The study used 1.2 to 2.0 L engines, with the filters in larger engines loading up faster, so for a 3.0 L engine like in this Lexus, you could roughly cut those filter life figures in half to 19k and 6k miles.

24k miles may be pushing it, even with a FRAM Ultra on a Toyota. I'm not sure if you can determine if a filter is clogged just by looking at the filter media or oil. A UOA with particle counts or filter dP measurements would be the definitive way of knowing.
 
A UOA with particle counts or filter dP measurements would be the definitive way of knowing.
A UOA particle count won't tell you anything about how loaded up the filter is, because you'd know nothing about how much debris the engine produced. Only a dP vs flow test comparing that to a new filter of the same make and model would give an idea of how much it's loaded. You could look at the max dP and see how close it is to the bypass setting, and if you had some kind of correlation between the dP vs flow curve as x viscosity for that specific oil filter you might be able to equate that to gram of debris captured. But that would be a whole science project that nobody here could do.

Another thing that could be done by anyone with an accurate scale is to fill the new oil filter completely with oil and weight it. Run the filter for however long, then do the same complete oil fill of the filter with the same oil and weight it again. The delta in weight would be how many grams the filter gained over the OCI.
 
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Filter was on a 2002 ES300 for 4 years, 2 months. 24,350 total miles over three oil changes. 332,400 total miles on the car.

- Impressive as it sits horizontally under the exhaust header, which will bake ADBVs and cause drain-down.
- Robust appearance and no visible dirt/grit in pleats or in filter body.
- Any damage pictured is from cutting open the can and prying out the filter (can somewhat crushed in removing and I clipped the ADBV with the snips when opening).
- You may also note the can defeated the (apparently cheap) tin snips I was using and broke the tip off. ;)

I love these as I can skip the difficult filter change until the 3rd oil change, and not suffer for it. I replaced it with one I bought at the same time, back in 2019. This car was doing 15 to 20k miles a year, but not since Covid. New driver (my retired father) and much less miles. I refilled it with 5qts NAPA 10w30 full syn + 5ozs LubeGard Blue. I am not as strict about always using Mobil 1 10w-30 HM like I used to be; adding the LubeGard has made me relax a bit on that. Miles 150k to 300k were mostly all on M1 10w-30 HM.

View attachment 181804

View attachment 181805

View attachment 181806

View attachment 181807

View attachment 181809

View attachment 181810

This is what is so demanding on filters on this engine (Toyota 1MZ-E). Filter is right under the exhaust header. I have to use a claw wrench to get them out and that usually crushes them. Most filter’s ADBV will cook fairly quickly but the Fram Ultra ones never do.
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Nice! You got your 💵’s worth out of that filter.
 
It’s hard to tell the condition of the filter media without cutting it apart and squeezing out all the oil in a press. Then you can actually see the carbon build up.

Looks good overall. I’ve ran oil filters for 2-3x oil change intervals for years. No issues. Filters always look good when I cut them apart. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Thank you for cutting open OP and sharing the data. If i were you Kenshin I might still drop it to 15k for the pucker factor.
 
So, legit question aimed at the site veterans here... Seeing as this small/medium sized filter is basically proof that 20k is doable on top notch filters, or at least the Fram XG's (though I presume Donaldson's/Baldwin's best would fare as well or better), is it at all logical to assume that, a filter of the same type that is twice as big as the OP's (or bigger), could go twice as long? Like, the FL1A sized equivalent or larger?

I know I will be berated by some, but math is math... I believe that a filter of the same type or better with twice the filter media should in theory be capable of 40k judging by the fact that this filter seemingly did not fail.

And to go down the rabbit hole... Is there not any super huge filter with synthetic media and wire backing, possibly twice the size of an FL1A, that could go even farther? Are there not any 2 quart (or even 1 quart) filters for like BBC's and diesels that one could put a remote location for the filter? Yes it's excessive and I'm not saying anyone should do it, this is a hypothetical/theoretical question about the legitimate mile usage for a larger filter of the same caliber.

Sure you could call that stupid. But again... Math. It figures that way. I mean, this little filter made it 20k+.
Baldwin filters are built well, but their efficiency is not phenomenal and they don’t do synthetic media in any filter I’ve seen of theirs.

Donaldson filters for diesel apps that have their Synteq media are great, but for some reason Donaldson doesn’t offer their best media in sizes that work for most cars. If you’ve got a Cummins, Powerstroke, or Duramax you’re likely in luck.
 
Based on what I see, imo I don't believe topic filter so loaded it was at capacity. Not in bypass, when removed. That said, personally I likely would have swapped out for a new filter after the second oci, ~16k miles assuming ~8k mi for each. OG XG rated to 20k, 'to me' little cost benefit pushing it much beyond the rating.

Fwiw, I ran the same application OG XG 32 months to 14k miles, on 3.4L Tacoma, appeared fine when c&p here. I could have run it one more oci to ~5k miles, but I was satisfied with time frame that I got my money's worth. There have been other OG XG anecdotes to ~20k miles, have looked good too. The topic OG XG, a very stout full synthetic filter with solid holding capacity.
 
Yeah they can. If it were my filter, then I would cut the element out of the filter, lay it out flat and scrape the filter with a butter knife or similar. If you get debris on the scraper, you have a pretty loaded filter.


20k is a rote marketing number. I have no faith in marketing numbers. How long can a filter efficiently filter? It depends.
You have no faith in manufacturer's recommended numbers but ok with butter knife tests?
 
You have no faith in manufacturer's recommended numbers but ok with butter knife tests?
I said I have no faith in marketing numbers. Marketing departments generally aren't burdened with technical facts. If the manufacturer says the filter passes test x for standard y, then I'm good with that.

The butter knife isn't testing anything, just looking for visible debris.
 
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