Ford V10 6.8L cold start issue
- Thread starter pacem
- Start date
One of the MAF wires is physically broken. I have the replacement. I have not yet installed the replacement. I suppose it does not make sense to do anything else until this is fixed. I will address the battery voltage issue.
How do I add engine RPM as a live reading? I did not see any variable which corresponded to it. And is it under PCM or OBDII?
How do I add engine RPM as a live reading? I did not see any variable which corresponded to it. And is it under PCM or OBDII?
No. I do not know the condition of the plugs but the motor has 52K miles on it.
Not a bad idea to check the above.
One of the mechanics who looked at said it's getting no spark after running some test, but I did not notice which test exactly.
The Forscan software runs the KOEF test automatically when the module connects.
This is the only thing that came up:
Secondly, there is no change to the RPMDSD variable, from the KOEF to cranking. This means the engine is not even turning?
This is the only thing that came up:
Secondly, there is no change to the RPMDSD variable, from the KOEF to cranking. This means the engine is not even turning?
I got the wires for the MAF sensor repair but not sure how to install them:
Video of the crank-no-start: The tach barely moves.
I charged the battery to 12.5V.
It's the secondary alternatator for the rear AC. There are actually 3 alternators in the vehicle. I had a person steal my alternator belt believe it or not. Craiglist's finest. He got me a new replacement, removed the old one. and took the new one (to return it I suppose).
I have never been frustrated this much with automotive issues all my life and driving since 18.
I have never been frustrated this much with automotive issues all my life and driving since 18.
will run Key-on-engine-off test as described here:
have a Ford guy on site, he thinks the injectors are not grounding, or not being grounded. Possibly the computer faulty, the driver module in it. He checked it with a device that lights up.
Yes, IAT is all good now, reading 26C, no codes with anything. KOEF test no codes. No codes with anything. Still doesn't start. It has gas and spark. Up to the point, the fuel rail has gas but the injectors are not firing.
Yes, IAT is all good now, reading 26C, no codes with anything. KOEF test no codes. No codes with anything. Still doesn't start. It has gas and spark. Up to the point, the fuel rail has gas but the injectors are not firing.
The injectors will not fire if the TPS reads wide open (near 100%) while cranking. This provision in the software allows the driver to clear a flooded condition by holding the gas pedal on the floor, similar to what is done with a carbuerator system.
Again you need to look at every live reading you can see and confirm that they all make sense.
Again you need to look at every live reading you can see and confirm that they all make sense.
The Camshaft position sensor has been replaced, MAF fixed, it's getting no codes now at all. Still no start.
Can the Forscan software make an injector open? The spark plugs are dry and not getting any gas. Gas goes all the way to the rail but no further. It's getting spark.
Can the Forscan software make an injector open? The spark plugs are dry and not getting any gas. Gas goes all the way to the rail but no further. It's getting spark.
after the camshaft position sensor, the crank position sensor has been replaced and it began to start. Still hard starts but much easier than before (which was impossible and hasn't started in months prioro to this) . Usually stars on the 3rd or 4th attempt, with each attempt being probably 10 seconds.
I am attempting to run it out of gas. Since it's several months old and likely questionable. Added 2 bottles of STP fuel injector cleaner in the tank.
it got better but still something is not right with it.
I will report on the injection and ignition coil pulses.
What I don't get is why it starts instantly when hot/warm but much tougher when it's overnight cold.
This right there should explain what the problem is and isn't.
I wonder if I should replace the computer as well. Neither the camshaft nor the crank position sensor gave any indication of codes whatsoever. Yet the latter was clearly faulty.
I am attempting to run it out of gas. Since it's several months old and likely questionable. Added 2 bottles of STP fuel injector cleaner in the tank.
it got better but still something is not right with it.
I will report on the injection and ignition coil pulses.
What I don't get is why it starts instantly when hot/warm but much tougher when it's overnight cold.
This right there should explain what the problem is and isn't.
I wonder if I should replace the computer as well. Neither the camshaft nor the crank position sensor gave any indication of codes whatsoever. Yet the latter was clearly faulty.
Very low compression makes it hard to start cold. The engine would be so worn though you'd almost certainly have lots of oil smoke.
Have you confirmed the MAF is actually reading airflow by looking at live data?
Also this appears to have the electronic fuel pressure regulation and reading 75% fuel pump drive with the engine not running seems odd.
Have you confirmed the MAF is actually reading airflow by looking at live data?
Also this appears to have the electronic fuel pressure regulation and reading 75% fuel pump drive with the engine not running seems odd.