Which 1qt oil has the best cleaning capability? Redline, Amsoil or HPL?

Is the consumption OR other problem you are trying to fix?

No oil or additive will cure a worn out engine.

What tells you the engine needs some magic cleaning?
Consumption.

Nothing tells me. It's just the simplest and easiest thing to try before a rebuild.
 
Did you use Castrol synthetic most of its life? If you did and are still having deposits then a couple of things to check. It's possible your driving habits were too much for that oil. The duration before changing might have gone longer than expected. Was it driven highway or in town mostly. Type of oil filter? Did you use high detergent fuel and or a pea additive to keep things clean? If you are interested in a quart of EC30 I may be able to help but I think you aren't gonna get the results you want. If consuming is high, on the cheap you need to perform my listed recommendation that I posted just recently.

Post in thread 'Does risoline high mileage oil treatment actually cleans the engine?' https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...ctually-cleans-the-engine.372152/post-6584448

if you're still caught up on trying to use a one quart solution after all that I have posted, get on Amazon and buy one quart of 5W30 redline oil.

Sounds like Castrol maintenance plan you have been running is not working well. Try a higher quality oil with a more strict regime and see if improvements are made. Good luck 🤞
 
Seriously?

You’ve started several threads on this.

You told us you were going to use HPL in this thread:

Sorry but reminds me of --- gear head tool and amongst other names. Have a good weekend!!!
 
Wow!
One quart HPL installed with an existing 4-5-6 quarts of used oil?
You need to borrow $100 and run an entire OCI of HPL.

.... or better yet (if your wallet is relatively empty), do a Google Search on BG MOA / EPR Motor Oil Supplements.
They work well (large following) and reasonably priced.
My friend works for VW and they use the BG EPR to help the oil burners they get in to service. With his recommendation I did the BG EPR in a 223K+ '08 CRV, 173k+ '10 Forte and 80k+ '17 Accord 2.4L. None had any real burning issues just some use after 4-5k, I just didn't have all the histories on them so wanted to clean up rings better. It cleaned a bunch as the oil stayed cleaner longer, stuff smells strong though. All are now currently on regular OCI with some HPL EC30 in it. I'll run it longer but change filters at about 2k just in case. They might get a second round of EC30 as I bought the 6 pack anyway. After that I might swap to full HPL or just add a quart in place with other PP or M1. We'll see when that happens which with current OCI's and current stash of PP 5W20.

Wife's 52k '19 Pilot might get PP E 5W30 next to try for a 5k OCI. It gets a lot of short trip. If those tests aren't great than maybe M1 0W40. After pending test results and IF we keep it pending tranny concerns, maybe HPL. I don't drive as much as many so that might be a year or more before. The Pilot has been either M1 or PP with the LG Biotech above at each change for it's life. Still had slight fuel dilution and high iron when tested.
 
Did you use Castrol synthetic most of its life? If you did and are still having deposits then a couple of things to check. It's possible your driving habits were too much for that oil. The duration before changing might have gone longer than expected. Was it driven highway or in town mostly. Type of oil filter? Did you use high detergent fuel and or a pea additive to keep things clean? If you are interested in a quart of EC30 I may be able to help but I think you aren't gonna get the results you want. If consuming is high, on the cheap you need to perform my listed recommendation that I posted just recently.

Post in thread 'Does risoline high mileage oil treatment actually cleans the engine?' https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...ctually-cleans-the-engine.372152/post-6584448

if you're still caught up on trying to use a one quart solution after all that I have posted, get on Amazon and buy one quart of 5W30 redline oil.

Sounds like Castrol maintenance plan you have been running is not working well. Try a higher quality oil with a more strict regime and see if improvements are made. Good luck 🤞
Yes since I got it as a Volvo dealer loaner at 6k miles my wife used Volvo dealer to change the oil, every 10k miles as per the Volvo OLM alert. We did it all at the dealer in order to maintain the 7yr/100k mile extended warranty that the certified pre-owned sale came with (expired in 2021). Then I still used Volvo dealer for two OCIs and then the last OCI was a local shop that allowed me to bring my own filter and oil and all I paid for was the shop hours. There I brought in Castrol Edge Synthetic 10-30 HM (what is on Volvo hood as the recommended oil) and a Mehnl filter.

The car had 4 OCIs with Ceratec starting at 11k miles. The ceratec were every other OCI. Meanwhile 90% of the OCIs had 7 oz of lubegard biotech in it... until the last OCI which had a whole 15oz poured into it as a replacement for the missing (burnt) quart.

The car had either techron or redline sl1 poured into the tank every 2k miles. The gas my wife used was either Costco (80% of the time) or Shell Nitro+ super.

All services were done at the dealer as per the manual (I e 15k service, 30k etc,). My wife was stickler regarding having everything done at the dealer in order to maintain records in case something were to break.
 
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Sorry but reminds me of --- gear head tool and amongst other names. Have a good weekend!!!
Sorry was OCDd a bit since I am between jobs so I am bored and I have finished all honeydo lists at home including fixing the AC in the attic. So now I am hunting for stuff to do and before I take on something more demanding I wanted to gather as much data as possible. It keeps my mind and hands busy and prevents me from falling into depression in this job market (my skillet doesn't fit the place I live in but alas happy wife happy life ). Sorry for the spam.


Edit: I would love to get a whole set of EPL but that will happen once I get a job. I can't justify to myself spending that much on oil when I am not bringing income.
 
My friend works for VW and they use the BG EPR to help the oil burners they get in to service. With his recommendation I did the BG EPR in a 223K+ '08 CRV, 173k+ '10 Forte and 80k+ '17 Accord 2.4L. None had any real burning issues just some use after 4-5k, I just didn't have all the histories on them so wanted to clean up rings better. It cleaned a bunch as the oil stayed cleaner longer, stuff smells strong though. All are now currently on regular OCI with some HPL EC30 in it. I'll run it longer but change filters at about 2k just in case. They might get a second round of EC30 as I bought the 6 pack anyway. After that I might swap to full HPL or just add a quart in place with other PP or M1. We'll see when that happens which with current OCI's and current stash of PP 5W20.

Wife's 52k '19 Pilot might get PP E 5W30 next to try for a 5k OCI. It gets a lot of short trip. If those tests aren't great than maybe M1 0W40. After pending test results and IF we keep it pending tranny concerns, maybe HPL. I don't drive as much as many so that might be a year or more before. The Pilot has been either M1 or PP with the LG Biotech above at each change for it's life. Still had slight fuel dilution and high iron when tested.
I thought only the crv engine had the dilution issue and not the pilot. (Parents have a 15 pilot I just got a 23 hybrid crv).
 
I thought only the crv engine had the dilution issue and not the pilot. (Parents have a 15 pilot I just got a 23 hybrid crv).
Pilot is GDI and does a lot of short trip. Wife works less than 2 miles from home so it it sees a lot of start, drive right off, get to work in a couple minutes shut down. She has lead foot, she hits 6 stop signs and no main roads. A lot of not even fully operating temperature starts and shut downs.
 
This won't do a thing. The HPL EC is intended to get your engine ready to switch to their oil which has more cleaning ability over time. If you have ring issues seems the popular piston soak with Berryman's or the like has possible quick benefits. Another one you can try is a can of Liquimoly Engine flush.
 
I like to use the Rislone High Mileage Engine Treatment for all my vehicles in signature except the new Rav4 Hybrid. Run it for a minimum of 3000 miles -- then the oil & filter get changed out.
 
Sounds like you need to quit the 10k oci on your next vehicles as you learned the mfr only care about warranty periods and do 5k oci from now on. We have all suggested reasonable things to try and help resolve the burning issue. Have you tried any of them? If not, either poop or get off the pot with the repairs. Then report back with any results
 
Can't get a single quart. I am not payomg $90 for a whole 6. I will attempt to contact the owner to see if I can get a single qt pricing. If not then I will get the others. I have no funds to spend $90 on oil.

I was originally planning on using EC30 but after reading that it's cleaning ability is less than a qt of the regular oil by HPL then I decided against it. Why use something that's weaker than a regular oil cleaning ability? The car has had synthetic Castrol Edge since it was built thus I am not expecting a sludge fest that would require a gentle ECL treatment.
I’m confused. You don’t have $90 for oil that may be able to help reduce your monthly consumption (how many quarts of makeup oil does it take to reach $90?), but yet you’ll have the money to replace or rebuild the engine AND replace the catalytic converter?

Not saying the HPL will for sure fix your issue, but if you buy it, not only do you now have 6 quarts of makeup oil to use, but you also have a tool that may actually be able to help put off your engine’s impending demise. Just trying to help.
 
I’m confused. You don’t have $90 for oil that may be able to help reduce your monthly consumption (how many quarts of makeup oil does it take to reach $90?), but yet you’ll have the money to replace or rebuild the engine AND replace the catalytic converter?

Not saying the HPL will for sure fix your issue, but if you buy it, not only do you now have 6 quarts of makeup oil to use, but you also have a tool that may actually be able to help put off your engine’s impending demise. Just trying to help.
Let's make a deal. I have two interviews lined up this week. If I get a job or hopefully when I get a job then I will purchase myself the 6 quart set as a congratulatory gift to myself.
 
FWIW - as mentioned above, cut the interval down. We don't run brakes until they are all used up, why run oil until its all used up? I go down to about 25% of my IOLM - which is 7-8k

Have you talked to the wife? If she's a stickler and you REALLY (and I think we all know you really do) think a run of HPL will turn back time (and yes, it might help) then is she going to nickel and dime you? A dealership change had to run better than $60 - and another $40 is a bag of cheeseburgers or a small bucket of KFC - and she was adamant about those changes.

What you could do is go sell a couple of quarts of plasma. I have done that a couple of times when I wanted something I struggled to justify spending hard earned $ on, like a new tool that goes bang.
 
FWIW - as mentioned above, cut the interval down. We don't run brakes until they are all used up, why run oil until its all used up? I go down to about 25% of my IOLM - which is 7-8k

Have you talked to the wife? If she's a stickler and you REALLY (and I think we all know you really do) think a run of HPL will turn back time (and yes, it might help) then is she going to nickel and dime you? A dealership change had to run better than $60 - and another $40 is a bag of cheeseburgers or a small bucket of KFC - and she was adamant about those changes.

What you could do is go sell a couple of quarts of plasma. I have done that a couple of times when I wanted something I struggled to justify spending hard earned $ on, like a new tool that goes bang.
My plan was to wait until 5.5k and use risoline for top off.
After it went off warranty I only did one change at dealer and from now on been using a local shop that allowes me to bring my own oil and filter and they change for just the service $(22). So oil Castrol Edge HM off Amazon $23, Mahnl Filter $18 and job $22 so total of $63+tax.

Tried plasma and blood sale, alas TB as a kid so positive for TB test for the remainder of my life. The only test that comes inconclusive for active TB came from my pulmonologist and combined with chest X-ray it confirms that I am TB negative but that won't sway the donation center.
 
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Despite having the highest concentration of group V, the esters they're using apparently don't clean as well as one would think.
 
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My plan was to wait until 5.5k and use risoline for top off.
After it went off warranty I only did one change at dealer and from now on been using a local shop that allowes me to bring my own oil and filter and they change for just the service $(22). So oil Castrol Edge HM off Amazon $23, Mahnl Filter $18 and job $22 so total of $63+tax.

Tried plasma and blood sale, alas TB as a kid so positive for TB test for the remainder of my life. The only test that comes inconclusive for active TB came from my pulmonologist and combined with chest X-ray it confirms that I am TB negative but that won't sway the donation center.
I was trying the plasma thing for awhile but had way too many failed donations, evidently I don't have the veins for it as there were only a few that could even stick me correctly. I tried to reschedule earlier this week but they've deferred me for 8 weeks due to losing 200 ml of red blood cells and you need that length of time to regenerate them back and it's not the donation center but a federal mandate. The money was good especially if you can get in during their promotions but in the end I found the money isn't worth destroying my body over and after repeated donations it can really damage your veins. I was hoping to at least get a few more done but just couldn't happen, probably a good thing as I won't even need the money by the time I can return anyways.

With your car what I would do is cut the number of miles down and change it sooner, I'd try 7500 miles and go from there. I didn't see that you posted your current rate of consumption, how many miles before adding a qt?
 
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