Well Water Filters

[UncleDave]

After about 7 Months from last install I started noticing a difference in water taste so I decided to change out the cartridges in the Pre filter, and the final carbon filter.

For the pre-filter I use a 2.5x10 15 um string wound cartridge.
I dried the filter for about a week in a paperbag, and compared it to a new one.
I tared the scale so it did the math for me, but this filter has just under half a pound of sediment in it.

One of the things I like about a string wound filter is the ability to see how much of it was consumed by inspecting the ends, and it looks like I was on the very last wind.

This filter did get some duty for irrigation prior to the stream based watering system installation which took some of its life for sure, so perhaps the next one will last a bit longer, but I really cant complain about the job it did for a sub 10 dollar filter.

 

[UncleDave]

The final filter is a CFB 10BB flo plus.

Its molded carbon block acts as both a water cleaner, and a sediment filter capable of .5 um. A "twofer" so to speak.

It's got a low pressure drop for something this tight. A few years ago I would need a 20' housing or to plumb two of these in parallel to get this kind of performance.

It's supposed to be good for 25K gallons.

 

[benjamming]

Do you see the pressure gradually increase or does it spike (somewhat) suddenly with the string wound cartridge?
What's your flowrate?
What's your relative incoming water quality?

 

[Snagglefoot]

I’m liking that Acrylic clear housing. Mine are white plastic.

 

[PontiacHO]

Can y’all attach a photo of your filtration system please? I’m going to install one on my system. We have a community well that continues to pump discolored water.

 

[doitmyself]

I’m liking that Acrylic clear housing. Mine are white plastic.

As thick as they are, I had one break during a pressure spike. Most, if not all mfg. instructions recommend replacing the bowl every 5 to 10 years. Maybe they get brittle? Lesson learned (and shared).

"To prevent costly repairs or possible water damage we strongly recommend that the bowl or sump of all plastic
housings be replaced periodically: every f ive years for clear sumps, and every ten years for opaque sumps. If your sump has been in use for more than the recommended period, it should be replaced immediately. Be sure to date any new or replacement sump for future reference and indicate the next recommended replacement date."

 

[cdlamb]

I use a 20 inch big blue system that was purchased from a Canadian company maxwater.

Seems to work well, its a 3 filter system.
The first filter has a clear housing, that allows you to see the condition of the filter.

 

[walterjay]

The filter looks good. Reminds me that I need to change mine.

 

[UncleDave]

Do you see the pressure gradually increase or does it spike (somewhat) suddenly with the string wound cartridge?
What's your flowrate?
What's your relative incoming water quality?

For me it's been gradual.

This particular "cycle" I did not see or feel a discernible pressure loss, but did notice a difference in taste. t
The prior final stage cartridge was a granular carbon filter that had run its course.

Well pump is 15 GPM feeding a 40/60LB pressure tank.

If by "incoming" you mean from the wellhead - not bad, compared to some its fairly clean, but slightly acidic, and somewhat hard.

After treatment Its fantastic.

 

[UncleDave]

Can y’all attach a photo of your filtration system please? I’m going to install one on my system. We have a community well that continues to pump discolored water.

Heres the rest of it.

Well house has the string wound sediment filter.

Right to left its a calcite filter which raises PH - then a softener - then the final stage is a big blue housing a carbo/sediment combo filter.

The calcite media needs replenishing about once a year ( easy as pie - you just add more through the port)
The softener goes through about 5 40LB bags a year.

 

[PontiacHO]

Wow. That’s a huge setup. Thanks.

 

[Pablo]

 

[UncleDave]

Wow. That’s a huge setup. Thanks.

Yes and no, I've seen many more stages than I have.

Have you run a test to see what the "color" actually is? Iron? Tannins? turbidity?

 

[Pablo]

This spring when I turn my unfiltered irrigation water on I will run a 3 way WA test. (water analysis)

On untreated
The output of the system pictured above (S and hardness)
And the RO output at the sink

It's been 3 years, so want to see if things change

 

[PontiacHO]

Yes and no, I've seen many more stages than I have.

Have you run a test to see what the "color" actually is? Iron? Tannins? turbidity?

I’m told by the water company that it’s iron and magnesium(?).

 

[UncleDave]

I’m told by the water company that it’s iron and magnesium(?).

Pretty sure they mean manganese. You can get specific cartridges that will filter out X amount of parts per million of both.

Depending on how severe it is, you could conceivably get by with one 20" filter housing using a cartridge like this.

Iron & Manganese Reducing Filter Cartridge | 4.5"x20” | Whole-House Water Filter

Same-day shipment for all in-stock orders placed by 3pm. C-C4220-I Whole-House Water Filter Removes Iron & Manganese from Drinking Water.

wateranywhere.com

 

[Pablo]

Pretty sure they mean manganese.

This

Mn vs Mg

Manganese can typically (west coast) be around when Fe is present. Makes rust stains darker brown and in higher concentrations, black.

Is controllable with oxidation and softening.

 

[UncleDave]

I use a 20 inch big blue system that was purchased from a Canadian company maxwater.

Seems to work well, its a 3 filter system.
The first filter has a clear housing, that allows you to see the condition of the filter.

The "3fers" often come pre plumbed on brackets ready to go.

You can do a lot with 3 - 20" filters.

Agreed, I like having a clear housing on the first stage that catches a majority of the sediment.

 

[UncleDave]

This spring when I turn my unfiltered irrigation water on I will run a 3 way WA test. (water analysis)

On untreated
The output of the system pictured above (S and hardness)
And the RO output at the sink

It's been 3 years, so want to see if things change

Interesting, it seems you treat the irrigation water for drinking? Am I getting that right?

You switch from a well over to irrigation water? How do you pressurize it?

How is your allotment of irrigation water measured and delivered to you land and whats it typically cost?

I'm intrigued.

 

[tbm5690]

Interesting, it seems you treat the irrigation water for drinking? Am I getting that right?

You switch from a well over to irrigation water? How do you pressurize it?

How is your allotment of irrigation water measured and delivered to you land and whats it typically cost?

I'm intrigued.

I think he means the only untreated water he has is for irrigation...that comes straight from the source and then he treats the rest for either household use or drinking (RO system). I doubt he's on a well but I suppose given the right pump setup and GPH flow of each irrigation zone it could work?