Should I look into replacing the AC unit?
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Yes , it is just high .
I have an EPA card in my wallet so I can purchase refrigerant . Just checked the website for a local HVAC supplier . The 30 pound jug of R-22 I currently have cost me a little over $ 300 . Currently showing $ 499 .
No telling what a HVAC contractor is going to charge . Guessing at least $ 50 a pound . That is why I suggested using the R-22 from the old unit in a new dry charge unit .
I have an EPA card in my wallet so I can purchase refrigerant . Just checked the website for a local HVAC supplier . The 30 pound jug of R-22 I currently have cost me a little over $ 300 . Currently showing $ 499 .
No telling what a HVAC contractor is going to charge . Guessing at least $ 50 a pound . That is why I suggested using the R-22 from the old unit in a new dry charge unit .
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
Yes , it is just high .
I have an EPA card in my wallet so I can purchase refrigerant . Just checked the website for a local HVAC supplier . The 30 pound jug of R-22 I currently have cost me a little over $ 300 . Currently showing $ 499 .
No telling what a HVAC contractor is going to charge . Guessing at least $ 50 a pound . That is why I suggested using the R-22 from the old unit in a new dry charge unit .
$100 a pound here...
Yes , it is just high .
I have an EPA card in my wallet so I can purchase refrigerant . Just checked the website for a local HVAC supplier . The 30 pound jug of R-22 I currently have cost me a little over $ 300 . Currently showing $ 499 .
No telling what a HVAC contractor is going to charge . Guessing at least $ 50 a pound . That is why I suggested using the R-22 from the old unit in a new dry charge unit .
$100 a pound here...
So another update!
Decided when I got home, as I wait for parts to arrive, that I will double check all the connections and grind away any rust and all that type of stuff...
Anyway, after all that, I turned the unit on. Same as before... However, the "relay" was making electrical arcing sounds and really sounded like it was struggling. After another 10 seconds or so, the (transformer?) or switch dropped and the unit kicked on... Fan, compressor, etc... For about 5 seconds. Then it shut off and went back to humming. Did it once more for a few seconds and then I shut it down.
Looks like it's the contractor that failed (had to look up the name!)... If everything else kicked on, it's a good sign. So I removed the contractor and went off to Home Depot but no luck... So resorted to Amazon for a replacement part for $8 and will have it Sat/Sun... So fingers crossed... I may be back in service if this goes well.
Decided when I got home, as I wait for parts to arrive, that I will double check all the connections and grind away any rust and all that type of stuff...
Anyway, after all that, I turned the unit on. Same as before... However, the "relay" was making electrical arcing sounds and really sounded like it was struggling. After another 10 seconds or so, the (transformer?) or switch dropped and the unit kicked on... Fan, compressor, etc... For about 5 seconds. Then it shut off and went back to humming. Did it once more for a few seconds and then I shut it down.
Looks like it's the contractor that failed (had to look up the name!)... If everything else kicked on, it's a good sign. So I removed the contractor and went off to Home Depot but no luck... So resorted to Amazon for a replacement part for $8 and will have it Sat/Sun... So fingers crossed... I may be back in service if this goes well.
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I usually buy a contactor rated at least 10 amps more than the original , if there is enough room to physically mount it .
They are only a few dollars more . A little extra cheap insurance .
I intended to suggest to replace the other capacitor and the contactor .
All in all , sounds like you are making great progress !
Best of luck to you .
They are only a few dollars more . A little extra cheap insurance .
I intended to suggest to replace the other capacitor and the contactor .
All in all , sounds like you are making great progress !
Best of luck to you .
About right....was charged 50 bucks for a pound of virgin R-22, but that last time it took a pound of R-22 was about 5 years ago. I can live with that. When it gets to the point of pumping 2-3 pounds in every year, then I'll start shopping around.
Originally Posted By: JC1
Have the coils been cleaned inside (near the furnace unit) and how often to you spray the fins on the external unit?
Also how is the insulation in your attic and how well does it breath to get rid of the hot air? I added extra insulation in our attic, put in baffles for the soffits and added ridge vents to the front half of my house to keep the attic cooler in the summer months.
That makes a big difference as well to keep the house cooler.
If it's not killing your hydro bills, I would keep the old unit.
Good point. People always want to get a bigger system, but often they just need more insulation. BTW, when I read “hydro bill” I instantly knew you were from Ontario. I love little differences in dialect like that.
Have the coils been cleaned inside (near the furnace unit) and how often to you spray the fins on the external unit?
Also how is the insulation in your attic and how well does it breath to get rid of the hot air? I added extra insulation in our attic, put in baffles for the soffits and added ridge vents to the front half of my house to keep the attic cooler in the summer months.
That makes a big difference as well to keep the house cooler.
If it's not killing your hydro bills, I would keep the old unit.
Good point. People always want to get a bigger system, but often they just need more insulation. BTW, when I read “hydro bill” I instantly knew you were from Ontario. I love little differences in dialect like that.
Originally Posted By: xBa380
The original contactor was rated for 25A... I went with a 30A model, so not quite 10 better but still an improvement
Really hoping it works when I get the part. Not diggin' the humidity and heat lately. Oy!
Did you buy a replacement for the 2nd capacitor , also ? 30 amp contactor should be fine .
I live in mostly a dry climate . 100F is not that bad if out od the sun & there is some breeze . I do not tolerate humidity well ! :-(
Best of luck with the repairs ,
The original contactor was rated for 25A... I went with a 30A model, so not quite 10 better but still an improvement
Really hoping it works when I get the part. Not diggin' the humidity and heat lately. Oy!
Did you buy a replacement for the 2nd capacitor , also ? 30 amp contactor should be fine .
I live in mostly a dry climate . 100F is not that bad if out od the sun & there is some breeze . I do not tolerate humidity well ! :-(
Best of luck with the repairs ,
Just got the contactor in today... Placed it in the AC unit, wired identical to the one coming out and... Success!
AC kicks on and works again! So that was the issue. I got the spare capacitor in today as well, but I will just keep it as a spare and pickup a starter capacitor as well to have on hand if it should fail again.
AC unit seems quieter than it did before. Probably a mix of being absolutely filthy and the contactor making noises. Sounds real good
Appreciate the input and help everyone! While its cooler here in Ohio again, it's nice to have a working AC unit for when it does heat back up. Still will have to consider putting a new unit in within the next year or two, simply due to the condition of the fins/coils... But at least I don't have to scramble around now!
AC kicks on and works again! So that was the issue. I got the spare capacitor in today as well, but I will just keep it as a spare and pickup a starter capacitor as well to have on hand if it should fail again.
AC unit seems quieter than it did before. Probably a mix of being absolutely filthy and the contactor making noises. Sounds real good
Appreciate the input and help everyone! While its cooler here in Ohio again, it's nice to have a working AC unit for when it does heat back up. Still will have to consider putting a new unit in within the next year or two, simply due to the condition of the fins/coils... But at least I don't have to scramble around now!
Congrats !
Are you not able to see the condenser fins without removing any panels?? That's very odd as they need good airflow. Being so dirty means they were unable to reject heat thus performance suffers. I'd highly recommend cleaning the evaporator coil & squirrel cage blower as well. It absorbs indoor heat so it needs good airflow as well.
Good to hear you got it back up & running!
Good to hear you got it back up & running!
Sled,
Yes, I could see the condenser fins. There is no doubt in my mind that unit was running OT trying to reject the heat given how caked the fins were with grass/dirt and whatever else. I was able to PEEL the dirt off, it had to be 1/8” thick across much of the unit around the outside. So now it’s nice and clean and the unit sounds better than ever noise level wise. I’m guessing with so much of the airflow blocked there was some additional “turbulence” with the fan or something causing elevated noises, or perhaps just that contactor noise now gone it helped. Either way, hoping we get another year or two out of the unit! Hopefully if it does start leaking refrigerant from the corroded fins it occurs at some point in the season where replacement units won’t be a month or longer wait.
Great idea on the evaporator coil. I will have to get that clean as well. I *believe* that was done a few years back when the new furnace was installed and everything was cleaned, but don’t know for sure. Will def do that soon to keep up on it all.
Yes, I could see the condenser fins. There is no doubt in my mind that unit was running OT trying to reject the heat given how caked the fins were with grass/dirt and whatever else. I was able to PEEL the dirt off, it had to be 1/8” thick across much of the unit around the outside. So now it’s nice and clean and the unit sounds better than ever noise level wise. I’m guessing with so much of the airflow blocked there was some additional “turbulence” with the fan or something causing elevated noises, or perhaps just that contactor noise now gone it helped. Either way, hoping we get another year or two out of the unit! Hopefully if it does start leaking refrigerant from the corroded fins it occurs at some point in the season where replacement units won’t be a month or longer wait.
Great idea on the evaporator coil. I will have to get that clean as well. I *believe* that was done a few years back when the new furnace was installed and everything was cleaned, but don’t know for sure. Will def do that soon to keep up on it all.
I bet the condenser fan was noisy: It was starved of supply air due to the dirty fins. As such, its RPMs greatly increased. Should work much better now!
Absolutely! That is one thing I did notice, fan spins at a lower RPM for sure. Didn't know they were dynamic, actually. Thought it was an on/off type deal.
So I currently have coil cleaner on the way via Amazon ($5/can vs. $10+ at the store!), which then I will do the evaporator coil, but looking at the unit I am not sure access will be easy. There is a panel, right where the two lines go into the evaporator, but if I undo that panel (which has a cutout for these two lines) I don't think I will be able to pull it off far enough to really gain access to clean. I will need to snag a picture to show what I mean, but perhaps when I actually do it this weekend it will be easier than I expect. But as of now, it seems like the lines themselves will need to be modified and/or the panel be cut to allow access.
So I currently have coil cleaner on the way via Amazon ($5/can vs. $10+ at the store!), which then I will do the evaporator coil, but looking at the unit I am not sure access will be easy. There is a panel, right where the two lines go into the evaporator, but if I undo that panel (which has a cutout for these two lines) I don't think I will be able to pull it off far enough to really gain access to clean. I will need to snag a picture to show what I mean, but perhaps when I actually do it this weekend it will be easier than I expect. But as of now, it seems like the lines themselves will need to be modified and/or the panel be cut to allow access.
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The types of motors used exhibit very poor speed regulation vs load. Furthermore, with that level of restriction, the fan blade itself will stall. A blower table will show it.
TuffStuff has very similar ingrediants found in labeled coil cleaner. I discovered this several years ago comparing products. TS is widely available, safe for aluminum and leaves a pleasant scent. It foams up inside the coil, pushing dirt out while thoroughly wetting it. I let it work ~ 10 min. then rinse. Scrub & repeat if neccesary.
Often HVAC install crews will make evaporator access difficult unfortunately. Take note of this when it comes time to replace the unit. Mine is an upflow inside the envelope so access is easy and comfortable, i.e. no crawling through a dirty, dusty attic with insulation, in the heat & humidity.
Use UL-181b grade tape to patch any holes you may have to cut.
TuffStuff has very similar ingrediants found in labeled coil cleaner. I discovered this several years ago comparing products. TS is widely available, safe for aluminum and leaves a pleasant scent. It foams up inside the coil, pushing dirt out while thoroughly wetting it. I let it work ~ 10 min. then rinse. Scrub & repeat if neccesary.
Often HVAC install crews will make evaporator access difficult unfortunately. Take note of this when it comes time to replace the unit. Mine is an upflow inside the envelope so access is easy and comfortable, i.e. no crawling through a dirty, dusty attic with insulation, in the heat & humidity.
Use UL-181b grade tape to patch any holes you may have to cut.
Yesterday I was able to (somewhat) access the evaporator coil. We have an Aprilaire humidifier on the duct right next to the coil, so with no access panels anywhere else, took off the humidifier unit to expose at least one half of the upside down “V” of the evaporator coil.
It looked quite clean from the downstream side. But the other day, I was able to see the upstream side from where the blower or air filter was and I didn't see any hair/debris/dirt coating the coils. Looked quite good as well, thankfully, as there was no real way to clean or get to it unless I start cutting up duct work which I didn’t want to do.
So with the humidifier off I grabbed some coil cleaner and coated the exposed side. But given the awkward location of the opposite side of the coil, I had to spray blindly just reaching my hand up and around the top of the “V”. Used my cell phone to take pictures to see my coverage of the foam and ensure I got it the best I could. Once complete, cleaned/reinstalled the humidifier and closed up some air leak gaps elsewhere on the ductwork with the aluminum tape and fired it up. Nice lemony smell throughout the house…
So everything is all clean at this point and working well
It looked quite clean from the downstream side. But the other day, I was able to see the upstream side from where the blower or air filter was and I didn't see any hair/debris/dirt coating the coils. Looked quite good as well, thankfully, as there was no real way to clean or get to it unless I start cutting up duct work which I didn’t want to do.
So with the humidifier off I grabbed some coil cleaner and coated the exposed side. But given the awkward location of the opposite side of the coil, I had to spray blindly just reaching my hand up and around the top of the “V”. Used my cell phone to take pictures to see my coverage of the foam and ensure I got it the best I could. Once complete, cleaned/reinstalled the humidifier and closed up some air leak gaps elsewhere on the ductwork with the aluminum tape and fired it up. Nice lemony smell throughout the house…
So everything is all clean at this point and working well
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