Satisfied with your oil

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I've owned GDi vehicles since 2010. In that time I've mostly used Syn, but also a fair amount of Semi-Syn and Conventional. My Hyundai owner's manuals have never required it nor have i ever had problem...Intake Valve Deposits as exhibited through increased drivability issues or otherwise.

I do use Top Tier fuels 99% of the time.
 
I am running a 10W-40 API SL/CF ACEA A3/B3 semi-syn right now that i may run to 6000 or 7500km in my Escort.

Next i will try Mobil Delvac MX 15W-40, a API SL and E7 Dino HDEO with 1370ppm of Zinc, and around 50?ppm of Moly which is surprising to find any Moly in a HDEO, starting TBN is 10 and HTHS 4.1, i will probably try and run it to 8000 or 10000km ( 6000mls )
High SAPS, phosphorous is a non-issue as it doesn't have any Cats, EGRs, etc to worry about.
 
Doing 10K intervals with a filter change in between in the Tacoma. The Honda I may use Mobil One with 5K intervals. I do have Amsoil SS waiting for that one too but unless Honda deals with fuel dilution issue I’ll hold off using it.
 
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Doing 10K intervals with a filter change in between in the Tacoma. The Honda I may use Mobil One with 5K intervals. I do have Amsoil SS waiting for that one too but unless Honda deals with fuel dilution issue I’ll hold off using it.


EU you can use acea a5 or a3 xxw-30 in a honda 1.5L turbo engine. I think the dealer using the M1 0w-30 acea A5 at service fills.
 
Originally Posted By: Bjornviken
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Doing 10K intervals with a filter change in between in the Tacoma. The Honda I may use Mobil One with 5K intervals. I do have Amsoil SS waiting for that one too but unless Honda deals with fuel dilution issue I’ll hold off using it.


EU you can use acea a5 or a3 xxw-30 in a honda 1.5L turbo engine. I think the dealer using the M1 0w-30 acea A5 at service fills.

Yeah I’ve thought about 0W30 but 100K warranty if something happens and the 30W isn’t covered.
 
Originally Posted By: mx5miata
That's what I have been hearing that pricing is competitive between conventional, syn blend and synthetic that people are just going synthetic.
Other than marketing claims what is the difference between the oils these days?
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: mx5miata
That's what I have been hearing that pricing is competitive between conventional, syn blend and synthetic that people are just going synthetic.
Other than marketing claims what is the difference between the oils these days?


This! The rest is all Bovine scat
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Originally Posted By: SR5
In the old days when a conventional oil could have been just Group I or maybe a Group I & II blend, while a synthetic was most likely a Group IV & V blend, then they were miles apart in quality.

Now days a conventional oil is pure Group II or maybe a Group II & III blend, while many synthetics are pure Gtoup III, the gap has closed a lot.
+1
 
Unless your buying SuperTech conventional -- what there getting for the name brand conventionals around my parts like PYB/Castrol/Valvoline/etc.. you might as well anty up & spend the two bucks more for QSUD.
 
I don't use any full synthetics other than in my ATV and I'm thinking of going back to a conventional or semi-synthetic in it because it ticks pretty bad with the Rotella T6 5W-40 I have in it now.

I pretty much don't care what I run in my vehicles other than I won't use Mobil products anymore. I have stayed with Motorcraft in the Mustang just because it's still under warranty and dealing with Ford on warranty stuff has been a nightmare.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
Other than marketing claims what is the difference between the oils these days?


People say that a lot on here lately (which makes me wonder why they even bother with this site) but I beg to differ. Sure, if you've got an engine that you aren't stressing out too much and it's not forced induction or high performance, and you're doing 5k intervals and you only keep it for 100k before trading it in, then it probably doesn't matter what oil you use. In that case, any oil will get you to the finish line. But if you've got a high performance application, or a direct injected turbo, or you want to do 15,000 mile intervals, or you simply want to get 500,000 miles from your engine and still have the insides nice and clean, then you definitely need to look for something a little better than just any oil off the shelf. That's when you need to do your homework and make sure the oil you're using has the right certifications.
 
I am with ML red bottle, but my Honda can’t stand it...


It used to drink a quart of M1 5w20 every 2-3k or so, now since January 2017 when I switched over it hardly drinks any, so it must really hate the taste
 
Yes, I am satisfied with the 0w20 from the dealership, for the most part. My Crosstrek only has 18,000 miles on it, no burning or leaking. But, I do look forward to using the NAPA 5w30 synthetic. The boxer engine is very smooth running, but is a tad bit louder at idle and accelerating than I like. Will have to wait and see what the NAPA oil does in that regard.
 
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