Why aren't more of us using blends?

My old 1990 Ranger with a 2.9 gets Chevron Supreme Blend 5-30 and seems to really like it. I am not sure if the original seals would resond well to full synthetic oil. I am really not sure if it is correct to use our modern Ethanol gas in it. Nowhere in the owners manual says anything about fuel except that it has a 26 gallon fuel tank. Even the door for the cap has no mention except unleaded only.
 
a modern full synthetic more easily meets the certifications and specifications. and in the correct viscosities recommended by the manufacture of newer vehicles. the use of semi synthetics are perhaps more adequate for older higher mileage with SN, & backwards compatible applications.
 
My old 1990 Ranger with a 2.9 gets Chevron Supreme Blend 5-30 and seems to really like it. I am not sure if the original seals would resond well to full synthetic oil. I am really not sure if it is correct to use our modern Ethanol gas in it. Nowhere in the owners manual says anything about fuel except that it has a 26 gallon fuel tank. Even the door for the cap has no mention except unleaded only.

I think you are throwing hypotheticals at a problem that doesn’t exist.

I’m using unleaded fuel, both ethanol and pure gas, and full synthetic M-1 products in numerous classic cars that are 25-30+ years older than your 1990 Ranger. Some of them still have the original seals you reference . There a just aren’t any of those issues you mention.
…or perhaps it was just a tongue-in-cheek post.

Mobil’s website FAQ’s section does specifically mention that their high mileage line is designed for engines that previously used conventional oil for years. But I have never tried the high mileage products. The regular Mobil 1 line has been working exceptionally well so no reason to try their other products.

Z
 
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I’m thinking old Pennzoil Yellow Bottle morphed into Pennzoil Gold to meet SN Plus and then SP.

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How many "synthetic" oils have some fraction of group II+ base stocks in them? Probably quite a number. I don't worry about it personally and just drive on with my 5k changes using the best bang for my buck oil. Right now that's Kirkland synthetic.
Does Krikland Synthetic have 0W-20? They are building a Costco right down the road from me (around 2 miles away.) Not sure how their pricing is, but if they have 0W-20, I may just use that for the Mazda CX-5.
 
I absolutely stick to 5k OCI’s because of issues with the oil rings on the pistons becoming contaminated and even seizing. This is mainly due to carbon and crap in the oil. Not something a UOA will reveal. I have a very good source that I trust who is a Toyota Master tech and has his own shop. He consistently sees Toyotas coming in with oil consumption issues with those that follow the 10k or more OCI. Usually rearing its head around 160k - 180k miles. Scorn cylinder walls because of oil ring failures. Those that do 5k intervals, even using standard oil, have engines that last much longer. Frequency is more important than oil type in my humble opinion. I know this may go against what many people believe, but this is what I stick to. Oil cost is not a big deal for me and M1 Euro 0W-40 is only $60 for 12 quarts. Anyway, just my 2 cents.
This 100%.

Even worse on Hyundai/Kia vehicles. My sons Rio in signature burns oil. It was meticulously cared for. Full Syn 90% of the time every 5K. A couple times (including factory fill) it got a synthetic blend. Around 105K or so, started dropping on the dipstick between OCI's.

I just replaced the spark plugs and did a BG EPR treatment. Will do the BG again next oil change. Seems to have helped.

So, anyone buying a Kia or Hyundai, my advice, from experience, is go to 5W-30 (allowed in manual) and change at severe interval of 3,750.
 
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Does Krikland Synthetic have 0W-20? They are building a Costco right down the road from me (around 2 miles away.) Not sure how their pricing is, but if they have 0W-20, I may just use that for the Mazda CX-5.
Looked it up. They have it. (4) 5qt jugs for $79.99, around $20 each.

Supertech, which looks to be the exact same stuff, is around $18 for the 10K and $20 for the 20K.

Meh....
 
This is my guess.
There was oil...and it was good.
Then synthetics were invented and marketed. They were more expensive by quite a margin.
The industry decided to use the word "blend" to signify to the average consumer that the product was an improvement over conventional oil but cheaper than a 'new-fangled' synthetic.

If I had more energy perhaps I'd parallel the restaurant industry's use of the word "fusion" to signify "mixed cuisines".
You must admit, "fusion" sounds a lot better than "shared ingredients" or "muddled menus".
 
Looked it up. They have it. (4) 5qt jugs for $79.99, around $20 each.

Supertech, which looks to be the exact same stuff, is around $18 for the 10K and $20 for the 20K.

Meh....
Oil People: I’m not spending two extra dollars on that name brand oil when I can X brand for less!

Also Oil People: Spends $100 weekly on fuel for a truck but has nothing to tow or haul.
 
A blend can be a tablespoon of synthetic in a quart of conventional oil. It’s a silly way to market oil. My blend is 4 quarts of 0w20 synthetic and 4 quarts of 5w30 synthetic.

Interesting to me that you mix oils, because i do so sometimes.
In my F150 right now is 3 oils, Castrol Edge 5W40, Mobil 1 5W30, and Quaker State 0W30. Having some Castrol, and Mobil 1 left, I dumped them in, they were about 3 liters combined, then 4 plus liters of Quaker State.
Over the past 10 years a few people told me not to mix oils.
It hasn't been a problem so far.
Glad to read here that someone else does it.
Always assumed any full synthetic from big brands like Castrol, Mobil 1, and Quaker state should be okay to use, and mix together.
During an oil change, some residual oil gets left in the motor, then we switch brands, so is this any different.
Hopefully it hasn't done damage to my motor.
 
Interesting to me that you mix oils, because i do so sometimes.
In my F150 right now is 3 oils, Castrol Edge 5W40, Mobil 1 5W30, and Quaker State 0W30. Having some Castrol, and Mobil 1 left, I dumped them in, they were about 3 liters combined, then 4 plus liters of Quaker State.
Over the past 10 years a few people told me not to mix oils.
It hasn't been a problem so far.
Glad to read here that someone else does it.
Always assumed any full synthetic from big brands like Castrol, Mobil 1, and Quaker state should be okay to use, and mix together.
During an oil change, some residual oil gets left in the motor, then we switch brands, so is this any different.
Hopefully it hasn't done damage to my motor.
Yes if the oils have passed ASTM D6922 (also part of an API license) then there is a guarantee that the mixture is miscible and will not separate and cause harm. However, that's all it says. It does not guarantee that the resulting mixture will meet any license, specification nor approval that any of the original oils may have held, nor does it guarantee that the mixture will meet any specific winter rating.
 
I guess it depends on the vehicle. I grew up using conventional oil and never had any problems. My dad about brainwashed me about using Mobile 1 synthetic. I use high-mileage synthetic oil in my van I'm using Penzoil for the first time ever and whatever is around, sometimes blending various synthetic blends (sounds mysterious) for my oil thirsty dinosaur truck. A good oil filter and short change intervals help engines last.
 
Everybody already hit the nail on head with pricing, better quality and not knowing the percentage etc. I will add that most semi-syns don't have all the spec required for all vehicles such as Dexos.
 
I guess it depends on the vehicle. I grew up using conventional oil and never had any problems. My dad about brainwashed me about using Mobile 1 synthetic. I use high-mileage synthetic oil in my van I'm using Penzoil for the first time ever and whatever is around, sometimes blending various synthetic blends (sounds mysterious) for my oil thirsty dinosaur truck. A good oil filter and short change intervals help engines last.
Your dad did good TEACHING you not brainwashing you - Mobil 1 (not mobile) is an excellent oil.
 
My old 1990 Ranger with a 2.9 gets Chevron Supreme Blend 5-30 and seems to really like it. I am not sure if the original seals would resond well to full synthetic oil. I am really not sure if it is correct to use our modern Ethanol gas in it. Nowhere in the owners manual says anything about fuel except that it has a 26 gallon fuel tank. Even the door for the cap has no mention except unleaded only.
Anthropomorphism always amuses me. How does a machine like something… or REALLY like something… It works as designed and doesn’t breakdown maybe? 🤔
 
A blend can be a tablespoon of synthetic in a quart of conventional oil. It’s a silly way to market oil. My blend is 4 quarts of 0w20 synthetic and 4 quarts of 5w30 synthetic.
If it meets the specs and certs though, then does it really matter?
 
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