- Joined
- Jun 8, 2022
- Messages
- 5,591
Would running a euro oil help with this to some degree?
Oil usage in newer cars
- Thread starter BobsArmory
- Start date
A euro 5w-40 might help.
some manufacturers consider 1qt/1k mi to be normal/acceptable use...unfortunately...
From 8/2001 - 2/2010, i drove a y2k Hyundai Sonata (2.4l 4 cyl) . it was a great, cheap, reliable car.
it had a few issues, but the warranty took care of all of them*, other than the normal maintenance items, belts, coil pack, etc.
it called for... i forget if it was 5w20, or 5w30. took it in for it's first change after i put 3k mi on it ( ~19k mi in total) it was low.
at the advice of the shop's owner, switched it to 10w30, slowed the consumption, but over all it burned a qt/1000-1500 mi. but it ran fine, no smoke, just had to keep it topped up. ( i can even remember one 3k mi OC when i was out of town where they said there was no oil showing on the dipstick)
*both front window regulators, Dead Tachometer, rear wheel bearings all within the first 55k mi), CV boots got torn by the rusted out subframe, boots repaired under warranty, subframe replaced under recall. (rolled in and got the cv's diagnosed and scheduled @ 99,900 mi...100,000 mi warranty. i was over by the time it was repaired, but because it was diagnosed before 100k, it was covered. )
From 8/2001 - 2/2010, i drove a y2k Hyundai Sonata (2.4l 4 cyl) . it was a great, cheap, reliable car.
it had a few issues, but the warranty took care of all of them*, other than the normal maintenance items, belts, coil pack, etc.
it called for... i forget if it was 5w20, or 5w30. took it in for it's first change after i put 3k mi on it ( ~19k mi in total) it was low.
at the advice of the shop's owner, switched it to 10w30, slowed the consumption, but over all it burned a qt/1000-1500 mi. but it ran fine, no smoke, just had to keep it topped up. ( i can even remember one 3k mi OC when i was out of town where they said there was no oil showing on the dipstick)
*both front window regulators, Dead Tachometer, rear wheel bearings all within the first 55k mi), CV boots got torn by the rusted out subframe, boots repaired under warranty, subframe replaced under recall. (rolled in and got the cv's diagnosed and scheduled @ 99,900 mi...100,000 mi warranty. i was over by the time it was repaired, but because it was diagnosed before 100k, it was covered. )
Last edited:
???Is it white
back in 98 I was buying a new 3/4ton chevy, the sales guy said they loosened the rings and they burn more oil. I thought the guy was pulling my leg,
But it burned 1/2 quart every 1500 miles, I tore their survey a new A$$ every time I got one.
They did it for mpg, which really didnt help much, I rather had a tight motor that didnt burn oil.
But it burned 1/2 quart every 1500 miles, I tore their survey a new A$$ every time I got one.
They did it for mpg, which really didnt help much, I rather had a tight motor that didnt burn oil.
Is that same same 1.5L turbo that's in my wife's 2018 Equinox? It currently has 63,000 miles and hasn't burned any oil during the 5,500 mile oil changes. Most of the miles are highway though.
I believe GM recommends 5w30 in the 2018+ 3rd gen with 1.5T
I was surprised that my newly acquired 2021 Traverse with the LFY 3.6L spec'd 5w30 vs the 0w20 that everything else seems to spec these days.
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2023
- Messages
- 991
Running a higher viscosity oil is a good test, as the increased pressure may help facilitate stronger ring seal and improve recovery of oil from the cylinder walls. You don’t know until you try.
Typical of todays cars with slipper-skirt pistons, low-tension rings and high piston speed with long stroke. What oil grade?
Curious if this vehicle was subjected to a long highway ride at constant rpm for initial break in.
Remember 5w30 is ILSAC is still made with light constituents. Last year I stepped up to a 10W30 for the Summer and my usage went away. Seemed to pick up some bottom-end lugging torque too,
Quaker State Full Synthetic 10w30. I am guessing the Pennzoil equivalent would do so as well - but no love from me here.
Last edited:
Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
Post in thread 'Lets talk about new vehicles' https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/lets-talk-about-new-vehicles.338563/post-6440879
Yes it is. Proper maintenance is key and you are doing a great OCI for that motor. I have replaced 2-3 of these motors in Malibus on pre '17 model years. There were changes in 17/18 model year that seems to have helped a bit. I service a 2019 Equinox with 78k and oil changes done off the OLM system and that customer is using approx 1 quart in 4500 miles and that isn't so bad as long as people check the oil and top off. It's when they don't check the oil during long OCI's that they run low and cause the additional wear over time and suddenly they have a big oil burning issue or locked up motor.
That is a very solid point and directly related to oil burning and sitting here pondering - I think the #1 code I see is P0420/430 convertor codes and I have changed a fair amount of convertors too. This oil burning issue I am surprised the EPA doesn't look at that metric as pollution.
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2022
- Messages
- 85
Wait so he told you about the oil burning issue, you still bought the vehicle and gave them bad surveys? Kinda a **** move if I’m reading correctly.
To me any oil usage is unacceptable.
Some random guy: "My car doesn't burn any oil!"
Me: "How often do you check it"
Some random guy: "Wha?"
Me: "How often do you check it"
Some random guy: "Wha?"
Before the Equinox my wife had a 2009 Saturn Aura with the 3.6L V6 and I never went off of the OLM due to the fact that there were a lot of timing chain issues with extended oil changes in the 3.5 and 3.6 engines. I did 5-6K changes and when we traded it in with about 123,000 miles it didn't burn oil or have any timing chain rattles. I kinda miss that car since it was an absolute rocket.
The typically way a converter is deactivated is through temperature, not oil burning. While burning oil will eventually deactivate the converter. Temperature does it much fast. When a vehicle is certified by the EPA, the OEMs typically use a temperature aged converter equivalent to 150,000 miles.
I have a similar scenario having purchased a new 2008 CTS 3.6DI in 2008 and doing M1 oil changes every 5-6k miles. While the timing chains did need to be done anyhow at around the 45k mark it was covered under warranty. The car now has 204k miles and just now started to burn oil at about a quart every 3-4k miles. Keeping fresh synthetic oil in there (never running low) and frequent changes are the way to a long life 3.6L.
