Did piston soak increase my oil consumption?

Top off with a higher viscosity oil.

Your piston soak likely did nothing much. Most products don't dissolve carbon, and clearly yours did not dissolve any. Consider sourcing an effective product and performing another piston soak prior to the next oil change.

We even do piston soaks on aircraft engines. It does remove carbon and reduce ring sticking.

Out of curiosity, what product do you use on those engines?
 
Top off with a higher viscosity oil.

Your piston soak likely did nothing much. Most products don't dissolve carbon, and clearly yours did not dissolve any. Consider sourcing an effective product and performing another piston soak prior to the next oil change.

We even do piston soaks on aircraft engines. It does remove carbon and reduce ring sticking.
Thanks, that gives some comfort. So you dont think hard carbon broke off and scored a cilinderwall? Any advise in what solution to use. B12 is not available in the Netherlands
 

This and several short interval oil changes. Done.
$81 a bottle? Jeez, that's probably more than a set of new rings. ;) And how does something added to the fuel help with the rings?
 
These engines work best with a heavier oil a 0w40 is what I have used and never had any issues. Castrol Euro 0w40 would be my go to for a VW/Audi. I had one VW that never used any measurable oil over a full OCI for years then I tried a popular brand of Euro 0w30 (not Mobil or Castrol) it turned into an oil drinking sow, back to the Castrol 0w40 and it went back to normal, engine compression remained normal.
Trav is one of the most knowledgeable posters on this forum. Do what he suggests.
 
So you don't think hard carbon broke off and scored a cylinder wall?
No. Even hard carbon has a Rockwell hardness of 0 (a joke of course, the scale does not go low enough to measure carbon combustion chamber deposits), the rings are hard chrome faced with a hardness of about 70. Even soft pure cast iron has a hardness of 40. Not sure what the bores are, but they would have to be made of something stupidly soft to be damaged by carbon bits.
 
Give the situation some time, keep an eye on the oil level. This is likely 75% nervousness, 25% new high detergent LL oil. Give it the GO aggressively after the new package settles after a couple hundred Km - that will usually unstick somewhat gummy rings - if that's the problem. I would be more concerned about reusing spark plugs with crushed gaskets. Maybe you installed new?

-Arco
 
No. Even hard carbon has a Rockwell hardness of 0 (a joke of course, the scale does not go low enough to measure carbon combustion chamber deposits), the rings are hard chrome faced with a hardness of about 70. Even soft pure cast iron has a hardness of 40. Not sure what the bores are, but they would have to be made of something stupidly soft to be damaged by carbon bits.
Don't forget what most call "carbon" has a lot of "ash" in it, which can contains: Boron, Molybdenum, Calcium and Zinc in some compound form - possibly oxidised. Worst I've witness happened - and we havent done this much with a followup teardown - was some piston top flakes migrating and sticking a valve open or flouling a plug. We would use the "Stream clean" using water and methanol and sometimes hydrogen peroxide.
 
Your assumption that the engine “uses no oil” was flawed. The oil level sensor uses a range, of say 75-90mm level to say, “OK”. Then, at 74, it says “Low”. That’s how they work. So, your engine could very easily have burned a liter, or more, in the first thousand miles.

Change the oil to get rid of this solvent. No more piston soaks, because it clearly didn’t help. Use a good XW40 oil this time.
 
Thanks, that gives some comfort. So you dont think hard carbon broke off and scored a cilinderwall? Any advise in what solution to use. B12 is not available in the Netherlands
B12 contains a large percentage of toluene. Here in the US we can buy toluene in hardware and paint stores. If it’s available to you I would try toluene, possibly mixed with some acetone or methyl ethyl ketone.
 
Your assumption that the engine “uses no oil” was flawed. The oil level sensor uses a range, of say 75-90mm level to say, “OK”. Then, at 74, it says “Low”. That’s how they work. So, your engine could very easily have burned a liter, or more, in the first thousand miles.

Change the oil to get rid of this solvent. No more piston soaks, because it clearly didn’t help. Use a good XW40 oil this time.
I could have written this post if i wasnt the TS. Off course i was burning oil. All Audi engines do. But i was not measuring it. Now i do and maybe a already was almost at the threshold value. In combination with a thinner oil maybe it is nothing. I came here for a little peace of mind and i found it. I will change the oil for 5w40 and have to wait to be sure....
 
I could have written this post if i wasnt the TS. Off course i was burning oil. All Audi engines do. But i was not measuring it. Now i do and maybe an already was almost at the threshold value. In combination with a thinner oil maybe it is nothing. I came here for a little peace of mind and i found it. I will change the oil for 5w40 and have to wait to be sure....
I’d change it to one that has the proper Audi/VW approval. That will include the correct grade.
 
$81 a bottle? Jeez, that's probably more than a set of new rings. ;) And how does something added to the fuel help with the rings?
And $6k to pull the engine, disassemble, probably machine work, gaskets, and etc. by a shop to install those low quality rings you are referring to. You don’t know the carbon issues in outboard boat motors (2 & 4 stroke)?
 
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