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The wording of the response as someone else pointed out was confusing.
I wanted to run m1 0w40 euro in a work tundra 4.6 that is short tripped alot, and wanted to know if thats ok
Mobil1 0w40 question for 2GR-FE Toyota
- Thread starter Oldwolf
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I wanted to run m1 0w40 euro in a work tundra 4.6 that is short tripped alot, and wanted to know if thats ok
I would say that’s a good choice.
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AFE is an API/ILSAC oil, while FS 0W-40 is a Euro oil, they have different additive packages. It's like mixing Hawaiian pizza and bangers and mash, it's not going to hurt, but it's not going to be as good as either on their own.
The later 2GR-FE engines will run forever on any off the shelf 0W20 at reasonable intervals. The timing components and bearings almost never wear out, lol.
Don’t put too much thought into it - these are really good engines. The only common issues are timing cover leaks and OCV’s.
Don’t put too much thought into it - these are really good engines. The only common issues are timing cover leaks and OCV’s.
Now that I have had time to research a bit more I can see how a 5w40 would work just as well for me. I tend to do more oil changes around 6,000 mi so probably either weight would be fine.
The pinnacle? I think not..No it can't be !!! I run M1 0W-40 in all my vehicles, a 2010 Ford Focus, a 2006 Toyota Tacoma with the 2.7 four cyl, 2015 Ford F150 with the 2.7 and a 2018 Ford F350 with the 6.2 gas engine. I my rather worthless opinion the M1 euro oil os one of the best if not the best oil on the Walmart shelf.
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Sure it’s the pinnacle, no other automotive forum requires a long list abbreviations and their meanings in order to decipher the posts.
That a dead giveaway of pinnacle status
Z
A mobil 1 5W40 is less likely to shear down than Mobil 1 0w40 during an extended OCI run. Do I have this right? If I were to take a long road trip and didn't want to change my oil until 10K, would I be be better off with the 5w40?
Not necessarily. The propensity for mechanical shear of a multigrade oil is highly dependent on the specific engine design and upon the quality of the VM. Mobil 1 0W-40 has numerous manufacturer approvals that include stay-in-grade requirements over an extended drain interval. I would not worry about this at all unless you knew that a specific engine had severe mechanical shearing issues.
Also some oils with a 0W winter rating use base stocks that have a higher viscosity index and require less VM than the equivalent 5W rated oil.
Sounds like I am back where I began.
Either M1 FS 0W40 or 5W40 will be a good choice for my 2grfe year around in my part of the woods.
Thanks for you reply.
Either M1 FS 0W40 or 5W40 will be a good choice for my 2grfe year around in my part of the woods.
Thanks for you reply.
Yes both will be good. I ran 0W40 on track reaching 300f and 5k OCI in BMW. In 2GR-FE it might shear down to thick W30, might!
I still don't understand why anyone needs a 40wt in a 2GR-FE. These engines do not have wear issues, you may as well stick with the specified 20wt for the fuel savings.
True. I ran 5W30 EP. But, I mean, if someone wants just because, there it is.
However, i did run M1 0W40, 0W20, 5W30, and there is absolutely no noticeable mpg change. I bet there is in controlled environment, but 2GR-FE is inefficient engine and really doesn’t matter.
I'm mostly curious to see if a 40 weight makes the engine a bit quieter.
I’m likely making an apples to oranges comparison, but FWIW, going from the previous owners 5w-30 fill to M-1 0w-40 there was no difference in the various engine noises or oil pressure or oil temp in my 4.0 liter V-8 Jaguar.
I’m guessing every engine will have a different story to tell.
Run Castrol Edge 0W30 than. But, pricier.
I have M1 0w30 in my 2grfe now. Really can't tell any difference from 0w20. 0w40 probably won't be any different. Just guessing.
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I have a 2007Highlander 205000 miles. I may change the rear 3 spark plugs next year
I have a 4Runner with the 1GR Any reason to not just go with what Toyota specs in the manual? Sure it says if you are under extreme conditions to go heavier but for the vast majority of people that doesn’t apply. So while I acknowledge this truck and the motor are generally so stout that you could probably use anything, given that Toyota sells these things based largely on their bulletproof reputation (most reliable truck as listed in CR- they had to admit it even though the socialists who run CR hate heavy BOF SUVs), why not do what they tell you on the manual? That probably doesn’t lead to as interesting a discussion, but that is probably the most supportable answer.
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