Lowest Noack oil for my 2018 VW GTI
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Originally Posted by JoelB
To be clear, that's your opinion, not fact. The fact is in certain vehicles they catch oil that otherwise would have gone into the intake.
That doesn't appear to be an issue on this platform. Catch can or no, these cars develop valve deposits. The RacingLine catch can has been shown to prevent oil surge on track, but that has more to do with its redesigned PCV system than having a catch can attached to it.
To be clear, that's your opinion, not fact. The fact is in certain vehicles they catch oil that otherwise would have gone into the intake.
That doesn't appear to be an issue on this platform. Catch can or no, these cars develop valve deposits. The RacingLine catch can has been shown to prevent oil surge on track, but that has more to do with its redesigned PCV system than having a catch can attached to it.
Originally Posted by JoelB
To be clear, that's your opinion, not fact. The fact is in certain vehicles they catch oil that otherwise would have gone into the intake.
It's not opinion, it's fact... The factory PCV system includes a catch can. If you install an in-line catch can in this car, you will not capture any oil. Plenty of folks have wasted their money and tried... If you're replacing the factory PCV system, then I catch can will catch something.
Unlike the older VW turbos (like by BPY) these engines don't seem to consume much oil, and they also don't seem to be plagued with intake valve deposits to the same degree as the older designs. I'd suspect most of the deposits are from unburnt fuel additives vs. being related to the oil. That said, I'm still using a low noack low saps oil (M15W30 ESP), just in case it helps. So far, it's stayed in grade and performed well.
If one doesn't want to go the low saps route, I think you'd be hard pressed to do better than Castro 0W40. That fact that it's cheap and readily available is a nice bonus, but even taking cost out of the equation I'd use it over the Motul options.
To be clear, that's your opinion, not fact. The fact is in certain vehicles they catch oil that otherwise would have gone into the intake.
It's not opinion, it's fact... The factory PCV system includes a catch can. If you install an in-line catch can in this car, you will not capture any oil. Plenty of folks have wasted their money and tried... If you're replacing the factory PCV system, then I catch can will catch something.
Unlike the older VW turbos (like by BPY) these engines don't seem to consume much oil, and they also don't seem to be plagued with intake valve deposits to the same degree as the older designs. I'd suspect most of the deposits are from unburnt fuel additives vs. being related to the oil. That said, I'm still using a low noack low saps oil (M15W30 ESP), just in case it helps. So far, it's stayed in grade and performed well.
If one doesn't want to go the low saps route, I think you'd be hard pressed to do better than Castro 0W40. That fact that it's cheap and readily available is a nice bonus, but even taking cost out of the equation I'd use it over the Motul options.
That may very well be true for this particular vehicle, I'm certainly no vw expert. But the person I was responded to was making a blanket statement.
That being said I'd be surprised if you got no oil at all. Generally factory pcv systems that include some sort of built in "catch can" leave something to be desired.
That being said I'd be surprised if you got no oil at all. Generally factory pcv systems that include some sort of built in "catch can" leave something to be desired.
Originally Posted by JOD
Originally Posted by JoelB
To be clear, that's your opinion, not fact. The fact is in certain vehicles they catch oil that otherwise would have gone into the intake.
It's not opinion, it's fact... The factory PCV system includes a catch can. If you install an in-line catch can in this car, you will not capture any oil. Plenty of folks have wasted their money and tried... If you're replacing the factory PCV system, then I catch can will catch something.
Unlike the older VW turbos (like by BPY) these engines don't seem to consume much oil, and they also don't seem to be plagued with intake valve deposits to the same degree as the older designs. I'd suspect most of the deposits are from unburnt fuel additives vs. being related to the oil. That said, I'm still using a low noack low saps oil (M15W30 ESP), just in case it helps. So far, it's stayed in grade and performed well.
If one doesn't want to go the low saps route, I think you'd be hard pressed to do better than Castro 0W40. That fact that it's cheap and readily available is a nice bonus, but even taking cost out of the equation I'd use it over the Motul options.
Aftermarket catch can is waste of money.
Best thing is to use M1 5W30 ESP if gas is ULSG in the area (in the US it is range, so some gas stations will have high sulfur gas) or castrol 0W40.
Everything else is witchcraft.
Originally Posted by JoelB
To be clear, that's your opinion, not fact. The fact is in certain vehicles they catch oil that otherwise would have gone into the intake.
It's not opinion, it's fact... The factory PCV system includes a catch can. If you install an in-line catch can in this car, you will not capture any oil. Plenty of folks have wasted their money and tried... If you're replacing the factory PCV system, then I catch can will catch something.
Unlike the older VW turbos (like by BPY) these engines don't seem to consume much oil, and they also don't seem to be plagued with intake valve deposits to the same degree as the older designs. I'd suspect most of the deposits are from unburnt fuel additives vs. being related to the oil. That said, I'm still using a low noack low saps oil (M15W30 ESP), just in case it helps. So far, it's stayed in grade and performed well.
If one doesn't want to go the low saps route, I think you'd be hard pressed to do better than Castro 0W40. That fact that it's cheap and readily available is a nice bonus, but even taking cost out of the equation I'd use it over the Motul options.
Aftermarket catch can is waste of money.
Best thing is to use M1 5W30 ESP if gas is ULSG in the area (in the US it is range, so some gas stations will have high sulfur gas) or castrol 0W40.
Everything else is witchcraft.
Originally Posted by buster
I'd go with Castrol 0w40 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 or Mobil 1 ESP 0w40 when it becomes availalbe.
That new Mobil1 ESP 0W40 looks mediocre at best. HTHS is actually lower then M1 ESP 5W30.
I'd go with Castrol 0w40 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 or Mobil 1 ESP 0w40 when it becomes availalbe.
That new Mobil1 ESP 0W40 looks mediocre at best. HTHS is actually lower then M1 ESP 5W30.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by buster
I'd go with Castrol 0w40 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 or Mobil 1 ESP 0w40 when it becomes availalbe.
That new Mobil1 ESP 0W40 looks mediocre at best. HTHS is actually lower then M1 ESP 5W30.
I don't think you can really make a statement like that from a couple numbers on a spec sheet.
Originally Posted by buster
I'd go with Castrol 0w40 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 or Mobil 1 ESP 0w40 when it becomes availalbe.
That new Mobil1 ESP 0W40 looks mediocre at best. HTHS is actually lower then M1 ESP 5W30.
I don't think you can really make a statement like that from a couple numbers on a spec sheet.
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by buster
I'd go with Castrol 0w40 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 or Mobil 1 ESP 0w40 when it becomes availalbe.
That new Mobil1 ESP 0W40 looks mediocre at best. HTHS is actually lower then M1 ESP 5W30.
I don't think you can really make a statement like that from a couple numbers on a spec sheet.
It is generally very thin W40 oil, has HTHS in W30 category. Not sure what is the point of using W40 oil with such HTHS? Unless it has some ridiculously low NOACK, or TBN retention or stay in grade, it is just another marketing trick.
As of now as far as I know it does not have Euro approvals and it is delayed for some time.
Unfortunately for us, we do not get M1 0W40 ESP available in Europe that has HTHS of 3.76.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by buster
I'd go with Castrol 0w40 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 or Mobil 1 ESP 0w40 when it becomes availalbe.
That new Mobil1 ESP 0W40 looks mediocre at best. HTHS is actually lower then M1 ESP 5W30.
I don't think you can really make a statement like that from a couple numbers on a spec sheet.
It is generally very thin W40 oil, has HTHS in W30 category. Not sure what is the point of using W40 oil with such HTHS? Unless it has some ridiculously low NOACK, or TBN retention or stay in grade, it is just another marketing trick.
As of now as far as I know it does not have Euro approvals and it is delayed for some time.
Unfortunately for us, we do not get M1 0W40 ESP available in Europe that has HTHS of 3.76.
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
All 40-grades with Euro approvals are 3.6-3.8 HTHS. Essentially identical.
Yes, but this particular M1 ESP Formula 0W40 is 3.53.
I am not sure is it going to be just made for Dexos II, meaning Corvette.
All 40-grades with Euro approvals are 3.6-3.8 HTHS. Essentially identical.
Yes, but this particular M1 ESP Formula 0W40 is 3.53.
I am not sure is it going to be just made for Dexos II, meaning Corvette.
Amsoil 5w40 EFM is what I use in my 2017 C43 AMG. Pretty decent no ack, and meets 229.5 requirement
I've been using real Redline 5W40, not the Euro approved version, in my 2018 GTI S since 2k miles and it's performing flawlessly...as it should considering it's a new car. I did a massive amount of research before choosing this oil and it had the best numbers of anything on the market. Lowest NOACK and highest HTHS I could find. I could care less if they've paid for the approved spec on it. I want the lowest carbon buildup over the life of the car as I plan to keep it for the long haul.
I'm not exactly sure what the factory fill is on these but it was extremely noticeable how much more "butter smooth" the motor felt on the first drive after the switch over to RL. I've been staying with a 5-6k OCI.
I'm not exactly sure what the factory fill is on these but it was extremely noticeable how much more "butter smooth" the motor felt on the first drive after the switch over to RL. I've been staying with a 5-6k OCI.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by biodiesel
I've been using real Redline 5W40, not the Euro approved version, in my 2018 GTI S since 2k miles and it's performing flawlessly...as it should considering it's a new car. I did a massive amount of research before choosing this oil and it had the best numbers of anything on the market. Lowest NOACK and highest HTHS I could find. I could care less if they've paid for the approved spec on it. I want the lowest carbon buildup over the life of the car as I plan to keep it for the long haul.
I'm not exactly sure what the factory fill is on these but it was extremely noticeable how much more "butter smooth" the motor felt on the first drive after the switch over to RL. I've been staying with a 5-6k OCI.
Approval price for VW is around $4,500. Redline did not submit that oil for approval because it cannot be approved not because of price.
Your engine will run smooth since it is very heavy oil, and turbo will need more spool time too.
If you are dead set on Redline, 5W30 is much better option.
I've been using real Redline 5W40, not the Euro approved version, in my 2018 GTI S since 2k miles and it's performing flawlessly...as it should considering it's a new car. I did a massive amount of research before choosing this oil and it had the best numbers of anything on the market. Lowest NOACK and highest HTHS I could find. I could care less if they've paid for the approved spec on it. I want the lowest carbon buildup over the life of the car as I plan to keep it for the long haul.
I'm not exactly sure what the factory fill is on these but it was extremely noticeable how much more "butter smooth" the motor felt on the first drive after the switch over to RL. I've been staying with a 5-6k OCI.
Approval price for VW is around $4,500. Redline did not submit that oil for approval because it cannot be approved not because of price.
Your engine will run smooth since it is very heavy oil, and turbo will need more spool time too.
If you are dead set on Redline, 5W30 is much better option.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by biodiesel
I've been using real Redline 5W40, not the Euro approved version, in my 2018 GTI S since 2k miles and it's performing flawlessly...as it should considering it's a new car. I did a massive amount of research before choosing this oil and it had the best numbers of anything on the market. Lowest NOACK and highest HTHS I could find. I could care less if they've paid for the approved spec on it. I want the lowest carbon buildup over the life of the car as I plan to keep it for the long haul.
I'm not exactly sure what the factory fill is on these but it was extremely noticeable how much more "butter smooth" the motor felt on the first drive after the switch over to RL. I've been staying with a 5-6k OCI.
Approval price for VW is around $4,500. Redline did not submit that oil for approval because it cannot be approved not because of price.
Your engine will run smooth since it is very heavy oil, and turbo will need more spool time too.
If you are dead set on Redline, 5W30 is much better option.
Curious as to your thoughts on why it cannot be approved. Also, why would you recommend the 5W30 over the 5W40? I was trying to adhere best to VW recommendations which seem to be 0W40 or 5W40 especially in the Euro markets.
I shift at 2.5K rpm, and don't spool the turbo, until oil temp reads 200 degrees but definitely interested in your thoughts on running the thinner 5W30. Opted for the 5W40 and thicker film strength due to the severe Texas heat.
Originally Posted by biodiesel
I've been using real Redline 5W40, not the Euro approved version, in my 2018 GTI S since 2k miles and it's performing flawlessly...as it should considering it's a new car. I did a massive amount of research before choosing this oil and it had the best numbers of anything on the market. Lowest NOACK and highest HTHS I could find. I could care less if they've paid for the approved spec on it. I want the lowest carbon buildup over the life of the car as I plan to keep it for the long haul.
I'm not exactly sure what the factory fill is on these but it was extremely noticeable how much more "butter smooth" the motor felt on the first drive after the switch over to RL. I've been staying with a 5-6k OCI.
Approval price for VW is around $4,500. Redline did not submit that oil for approval because it cannot be approved not because of price.
Your engine will run smooth since it is very heavy oil, and turbo will need more spool time too.
If you are dead set on Redline, 5W30 is much better option.
Curious as to your thoughts on why it cannot be approved. Also, why would you recommend the 5W30 over the 5W40? I was trying to adhere best to VW recommendations which seem to be 0W40 or 5W40 especially in the Euro markets.
I shift at 2.5K rpm, and don't spool the turbo, until oil temp reads 200 degrees but definitely interested in your thoughts on running the thinner 5W30. Opted for the 5W40 and thicker film strength due to the severe Texas heat.
Originally Posted by biodiesel
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by biodiesel
I've been using real Redline 5W40, not the Euro approved version, in my 2018 GTI S since 2k miles and it's performing flawlessly...as it should considering it's a new car. I did a massive amount of research before choosing this oil and it had the best numbers of anything on the market. Lowest NOACK and highest HTHS I could find. I could care less if they've paid for the approved spec on it. I want the lowest carbon buildup over the life of the car as I plan to keep it for the long haul.
I'm not exactly sure what the factory fill is on these but it was extremely noticeable how much more "butter smooth" the motor felt on the first drive after the switch over to RL. I've been staying with a 5-6k OCI.
Approval price for VW is around $4,500. Redline did not submit that oil for approval because it cannot be approved not because of price.
Your engine will run smooth since it is very heavy oil, and turbo will need more spool time too.
If you are dead set on Redline, 5W30 is much better option.
Curious as to your thoughts on why it cannot be approved. Also, why would you recommend the 5W30 over the 5W40? I was trying to adhere best to VW recommendations which seem to be 0W40 or 5W40 especially in the Euro markets.
I shift at 2.5K rpm, and don't spool the turbo, until oil temp reads 200 degrees but definitely interested in your thoughts on running the thinner 5W30. Opted for the 5W40 and thicker film strength due to the severe Texas heat.
Euro spec 40w oils are typically at the bottom of the viscosity range and have a HTHS that's under 4.0.
The oil you're using has a HTHS of 4.4
The HTHS of the RL 5w30 is 3.7
Excessive levels of certain additives is one reason for not being able to obtain an OE
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by biodiesel
I've been using real Redline 5W40, not the Euro approved version, in my 2018 GTI S since 2k miles and it's performing flawlessly...as it should considering it's a new car. I did a massive amount of research before choosing this oil and it had the best numbers of anything on the market. Lowest NOACK and highest HTHS I could find. I could care less if they've paid for the approved spec on it. I want the lowest carbon buildup over the life of the car as I plan to keep it for the long haul.
I'm not exactly sure what the factory fill is on these but it was extremely noticeable how much more "butter smooth" the motor felt on the first drive after the switch over to RL. I've been staying with a 5-6k OCI.
Approval price for VW is around $4,500. Redline did not submit that oil for approval because it cannot be approved not because of price.
Your engine will run smooth since it is very heavy oil, and turbo will need more spool time too.
If you are dead set on Redline, 5W30 is much better option.
Curious as to your thoughts on why it cannot be approved. Also, why would you recommend the 5W30 over the 5W40? I was trying to adhere best to VW recommendations which seem to be 0W40 or 5W40 especially in the Euro markets.
I shift at 2.5K rpm, and don't spool the turbo, until oil temp reads 200 degrees but definitely interested in your thoughts on running the thinner 5W30. Opted for the 5W40 and thicker film strength due to the severe Texas heat.
Euro spec 40w oils are typically at the bottom of the viscosity range and have a HTHS that's under 4.0.
The oil you're using has a HTHS of 4.4
The HTHS of the RL 5w30 is 3.7
Excessive levels of certain additives is one reason for not being able to obtain an OE
Originally Posted by biodiesel
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by biodiesel
I've been using real Redline 5W40, not the Euro approved version, in my 2018 GTI S since 2k miles and it's performing flawlessly...as it should considering it's a new car. I did a massive amount of research before choosing this oil and it had the best numbers of anything on the market. Lowest NOACK and highest HTHS I could find. I could care less if they've paid for the approved spec on it. I want the lowest carbon buildup over the life of the car as I plan to keep it for the long haul.
I'm not exactly sure what the factory fill is on these but it was extremely noticeable how much more "butter smooth" the motor felt on the first drive after the switch over to RL. I've been staying with a 5-6k OCI.
Approval price for VW is around $4,500. Redline did not submit that oil for approval because it cannot be approved not because of price.
Your engine will run smooth since it is very heavy oil, and turbo will need more spool time too.
If you are dead set on Redline, 5W30 is much better option.
Curious as to your thoughts on why it cannot be approved. Also, why would you recommend the 5W30 over the 5W40? I was trying to adhere best to VW recommendations which seem to be 0W40 or 5W40 especially in the Euro markets.
I shift at 2.5K rpm, and don't spool the turbo, until oil temp reads 200 degrees but definitely interested in your thoughts on running the thinner 5W30. Opted for the 5W40 and thicker film strength due to the severe Texas heat.
One thing about Redline is that is claims a lot of things, but no one knows whether that is true or not. Redline has in line up 5W30 and 5W40 (one you are using) that on paper have really good numbers. However, after market pressure Redline decided to obtain certain approvals and guess what happened? They did not send current line up, but developed new line up which all things considered are mediocre oils at best.
Euro approvals are looking at HTHS not as much to kinematic viscosity. As long as HTHS is above 3.5cp you are good. HTHS of 5W40 that you are using is 4.4 which will increase temperature, will not have cooling performance like thinner oils and will cost you at gas pump.
If you are dead set on Redline use 5W30. But, personally I would avoid using oil from company that claims meets and exceeds, and then needs to develop another line up to get approval. That means that they are lying about meets and exceeds.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by biodiesel
I've been using real Redline 5W40, not the Euro approved version, in my 2018 GTI S since 2k miles and it's performing flawlessly...as it should considering it's a new car. I did a massive amount of research before choosing this oil and it had the best numbers of anything on the market. Lowest NOACK and highest HTHS I could find. I could care less if they've paid for the approved spec on it. I want the lowest carbon buildup over the life of the car as I plan to keep it for the long haul.
I'm not exactly sure what the factory fill is on these but it was extremely noticeable how much more "butter smooth" the motor felt on the first drive after the switch over to RL. I've been staying with a 5-6k OCI.
Approval price for VW is around $4,500. Redline did not submit that oil for approval because it cannot be approved not because of price.
Your engine will run smooth since it is very heavy oil, and turbo will need more spool time too.
If you are dead set on Redline, 5W30 is much better option.
Curious as to your thoughts on why it cannot be approved. Also, why would you recommend the 5W30 over the 5W40? I was trying to adhere best to VW recommendations which seem to be 0W40 or 5W40 especially in the Euro markets.
I shift at 2.5K rpm, and don't spool the turbo, until oil temp reads 200 degrees but definitely interested in your thoughts on running the thinner 5W30. Opted for the 5W40 and thicker film strength due to the severe Texas heat.
One thing about Redline is that is claims a lot of things, but no one knows whether that is true or not. Redline has in line up 5W30 and 5W40 (one you are using) that on paper have really good numbers. However, after market pressure Redline decided to obtain certain approvals and guess what happened? They did not send current line up, but developed new line up which all things considered are mediocre oils at best.
Euro approvals are looking at HTHS not as much to kinematic viscosity. As long as HTHS is above 3.5cp you are good. HTHS of 5W40 that you are using is 4.4 which will increase temperature, will not have cooling performance like thinner oils and will cost you at gas pump.
If you are dead set on Redline use 5W30. But, personally I would avoid using oil from company that claims meets and exceeds, and then needs to develop another line up to get approval. That means that they are lying about meets and exceeds.
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