How often do you change oil in your lawn equipment?

[darrenc]

Oil, plugs, and air filters get changed annually in my Honda Harmony mower and my Power Trim edger with a cheapo B&S classic 3.5 hp motor. Engines either get Amsoil ATM or AME, whichever I have on hand.

BOB, how long is the 131 Nutra effective as a stabilizer? I need to keep premium gas stabilized in my boat for approximately 6 months.

 

[MolaKule]

Twice a year, from 10W30 to 15W40 and then back.

Plugs every two years.

For summer I use Schaeffer's 15W40 #700, or Amsoil 15W40 AME.

For winter I use Mobil 1 SS 10W30.

 

[MolaKule]

BTW, installed Bosch plugs in my two chainsaws for my Champion equivalents.

What a plug. Starting and performance better than new Champions.

 

[darrenc]

Molekule,

I couldn’t agree with you more regarding the Bosch plugs. My experiences with Champion’s over the last few years in my Jeep are rapidly worn electrodes and two cracked/broken ceramic insulators. I try to use either Bosch copper plugs or NGK’s, in all my equipment, including my boat. NGKs are also a very well made plug.

BTW, why 15W-40 in the lawn equipment?

 

[darrenc]

Molekule,

Have you found a good Bosch cross reference for lawn and garden equip? Also, do you know how to read the numbers on a Bosch spark plug? NGK makes this very easy, but I've not yet found anything on Bosch.

 

[MolaKule]

darrenc,

It gets 105 here in the summer and I have to mow over 3.5 acres; just added protection for those air-cooled engines. Ever notice that most motorcycle oils are 10W40?

Don't know anything about reading the Bosch codes. I just read the Bosch Application chart.

 

[Propflux01]

http://www.type2.com/library/electrip/spabos.htm


the above will explain Bosch spark plug numbers.

 

[digitaldrifter91]

i wish i had the time to work on my mower...i barley have time for my accord. lol i dont know where the drain plug is haha...

 

[darrenc]

Mola,

I too have run the 15W-40 here in Fresno (we also commonly see extended temps above 105 F: yuck).

Regarding the spark plug guide, I’ve frequently found that when cross-referencing Champion to Bosch, NGK to Champion, etc. to etc., that often the cross-referencing isn’t consistent. Sometimes the discrepancies are fairly minor, such as resistor vs. non-resistor. But, other times I’ve found significant variations in heat range, plug length, or electrode length. So, I normally check, double check, then triple check. For my lawn and garden equipment, I’m not too worried about minor variation, but for my boat motor, variation could spell catastrophe and about 6 large.

 

[darrenc]

Thanks NThomas. That's exactly what I was looking for. I just wish there was some standardization with heat ranges. For example, my HBR216HXA Honda lawnmower engine calls for NGK BPR6ES. This crosses with a Bosch WR7DC. But, when I look in the lawnmower section of the Bosch application guide, they specify W8DC. I doubt the heat range difference will make a difference and a can use both resistor or non-resistor, but still, I wish there were more consistency in these guides!

 

[darrenc]

quote:

---

Originally posted by darrenc:
Thanks NThomas. That's exactly what I was looking for. I just wish there was some standardization with heat ranges. For example, my HBR216HXA Honda lawnmower engine calls for NGK BPR6ES. This crosses with a Bosch WR7DC. But, when I look in the lawnmower section of the Bosch application guide, they specify W8DC. I doubt the heat range difference will make a difference and a can use both resistor or non-resistor, but still, I wish there were more consistency in these guides!

---

NThomas. Since you are in the business, what would you recommend. As far as why would I switch from NGK...because I can I suppose. I'm just having some fun.

 

[NThomas]

i also have a Honda, a HR215HXA
i carry either the NGK, Bosch, and some Nippon Denso
i would stay with the NGK to make things easy
both are great plugs
I use Bosch for all chainsaws, trimmers, blowers
basically the 2-stroke machines
Honda mowers I use NGK
everything else Nippon Denso
I think NGK owns Denso or the other way around
but you wont notice anything going from Bosch
to NGK, Both great plugs

 

[NThomas]

sorry,
i also wish they were more consistent w/ cross referenceing the plugs
every manufacture sends something different
i have complained, but im to small a business
to make a difference

 

[darrenc]

Thanks for trying!

 

[NThomas]

darrenc
if you need to know a cross reference let me know
here is the other info on how to read Bosch

example: WR9DC
W=thread
R=special types
9=heat range
D=thread reach
C-electrode

Electode:
C = copper core center elect.
D = 2 ground elect.
P = Platinum
R = burn-off resistor
S = silver elect.
T = 3 ground elect.
Q = 4 ground elect.
V = wide gap (.052"/1.3mm)
W = wide gap (.036"/0.9mm)
X = wide gap (.044"/1.1mm)
Y = wide gap (.060"/1.5mm)
Z = wide gap (.080"/2.0mm)
0,1,2 = special shell or elect.

Thread reach:
A = thread reach .460" standard elect.
B = " " .460" extended tip elect.
C = " " 3/4" regular elect.
D = " " 3/4"(.708"w/tapered seat)ext.tip
E = " " 3/8" regular elect.
F = " " 3/8" extended tip elect.
G = " " .460" extra extended tip elect.
H = " " 3/4"
H0 =" " .840" tapered seat, special extended tip, full thread
L = " " 3/4" (.708" w/ tapered seat) extra extended tip
L0 =" " .840" tapered seat special extended tip, half thread

Heat Range:
(2=coldest , 11=hottest

Special Types:
E = Surface gap
G = Surface air gap
R = Suppression resistor
S = Mini-Plug

Thread:
D = 18mm Thread Diameter Tapered Seat
F = 14mm " " (5/8" Hex)
H = 14mm " " Tapered Seat
M = 18mm " "
U = 10mm " "
W = 14mm " "
X = 12mm " " (11/16" Hex)
Y = 12mm " " (5/8" Hex)

and thats how you read the Bosch plugs

 

[wtd]

I change the oil in my Murrey pushmower once a year at the end of the mowing season. Its almost 11 years old and still runs like new. I also drain the gas out at the end of the season.

 

[CJH]

quote:

---

Originally posted by wtd:
I change the oil in my Murrey pushmower once a year at the end of the mowing season. Its almost 11 years old and still runs like new. I also drain the gas out at the end of the season.

---

I try to change it at least every two years...sometimes it may go 3.

 

[MolaKule]

I change once a year in the pushmower, tiller, and the Shredder/Mulcher, using a mix of Delvac 1 5W40/Schaeffer's #703, or Amsoil 15W40 AME/Schaeffer's #703. For my garden tractor, which is used year round, I use the above mix in the spring and summer, and in the winter I use Redline 5W30.

Oil never seems to darken, but I don't like moisture and or acid buildup, so I change it out.

[ May 31, 2003, 09:52 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]

 

[Rick in PA]

I got a little riding mower "thrown-in" with our first house purchase back in 1987. It's the littlest John Deer they make and it was old back in '87.

The oil gets changed, steering gear & chain lubed,and the blade sharpened mid-season, sometimes in July.

Just before I put it away for winter, I add some gas stabilizer and run it to warm it up for it's final oil change (straight 30 weight). The oil gets changed, steering gear & chain lubed, good check-over and blade sharpened. Give the starter cord a final mild pull to ensure the valves in the motor are closed and put it away for winter.

It started on the second pull this spring, so I guess I'm satisfied with this regimen.

I find it handy to use a permanent magic marker to mark the wrench size to remove the blade on the deck of the rider and the push mower. Also mark the tire pressure on the rider itself.

 

[Scott P]

I put new oil in my lawmower whenever I have to go fill up my gas can. Did I mention I have a Lawn Boy Duraforce 2 cycle?