Bulb grease? 👀

Anyone have a multi purpose dielectric grease that doubles as silicon lube for brake hardware, and used to lubricate rubber door and sunroof seals?

Im trying to cut down on the number of specialized products these days
 
Vaseline works good. And I have some battery terminal grease we use to use, wax like at room temp but melts at about 130F or so.
 
Anyone have a multi purpose dielectric grease that doubles as silicon lube for brake hardware, and used to lubricate rubber door and sunroof seals?

Im trying to cut down on the number of specialized products these days
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I've been putting a dab of Sil-Glyde on light bulbs (household type) for a long time, especially ones that are outside. When bulbs lasted longer, I've had more than a few that were stuck and have even broken the glass when trying to unscrew them leaving a broken base in the socket.
 
I've been putting a dab of Sil-Glyde on light bulbs (household type) for a long time, especially ones that are outside. When bulbs lasted longer, I've had more than a few that were stuck and have even broken the glass when trying to unscrew them leaving a broken base in the socket.
I changed many a mogul based HIDs at work. A lot of time after 10-20 years they are stuck good. Found out a quick spray of WD 40 on the threads and they come out easy.
 
connectors with a ribbed gasket. Like say for 9005 bulbs, should I start adding a dab?
I've always added a whisper of dielectric grease to small pins such as you mention. In cases where dirt has gotten into a connector (any exposed connector, not just lighting) I use 5-56 spray to clean the carp out and protect. Never a problem of any kind.
 
Found out a quick spray of WD 40 on the threads and they come out easy.
I've used silicone spray as well, often on bulbs that are indoor. Probably not necessary though 'cause even the new LED bulbs that claim 5-7 years of life, they never last more than ~2 so removing them isn't an issue.
 
Anyone have a multi purpose dielectric grease that doubles as silicon lube for brake hardware, and used to lubricate rubber door and sunroof seals?

Im trying to cut down on the number of specialized products these days
No, it is impossible if you want the correct *goop* for the job. Dielectric grease for electrical purposes and tight fitting insulation/low-drag lubrication, is necessarily a lower viscosity than needed for brake hardware. Door and sunroof seals, depends on the specifics. Generally you'd want lower viscosity like dielectric grease (if not dry silicone) but the more viscous silicone brake grease pastes aren't bad for dense rubber door/window trim, "IF" you put enough elbow grease into it to end up with very, very thin coating so it isn't as severe a grime magnet.

I wouldn't consider having dielectric grease and silicone paste brake grease to be all that specialized. They have lots of applications outside of automotive use too. They're 2 of the 3 most common *grease/goop* products I use, the 3rd and most popular being good old NLGI 2 lithium complex grease. Okay 4 most common, the lithium with and without moly in it should count as 2.

Sil-Glyde is not a silicone based grease, is castor oil based. It might be better than *nothing* but is not the right product for any application where you're hoping for longevity. What it does have going for it is that being castor oil based, more common household/garage solvents can clean it out, versus silicone grease, and is more compatible with antique braking system rubbers.
 
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I got a tube of bulb grease years ago that I use on battery terminals and coil boots. Even use it on o-rings when doing plumbing stuff around the house.

I got it because it was cheaper than a tube of dielectric grease but is the same thing.
 
I've never noticed any corrosion on bulb sockets to be honest. Maybe this is only a northern think. I usually get a new bulb every couple years, this is the first I've heard of it. I haven't used any type of silicone grease since I put it on a spark plug boot years ago. Blower wouldn't restart when hot. Let a buddy borrow it and had the same issue. He says dielectric grease will stop the spark because it liquifies with heat
 
The kid at the autoparts store was dying of laughter when I asked if it was next to the blinker fluid. He nearly buried his head in the computer keyboard.
 
He probably gave you the 'seller' product name for the correct and proper name: dielectric grease.
Cuz there will be a senile old fart squinting their eyes and scratching their bald head 'die-a-hwatt?'
Or the immature guy who hasn't grown up from their 20's 'who jokes about applying it to their private parts'

The stuff I overhear at auto parts stores sometimes. sighs
 
Di Electric means it is an insulator. Yeah we all use it but, I can see a very small film on any contact area, just causing a bad connection problem.
Maybe Vaseline is a better option?

Silicon ? Go ask your local body shop if they recommend using any sort of silicon spray lube around your car body?
 
He probably gave you the 'seller' product name for the correct and proper name: dielectric grease.
Cuz there will be a senile old fart squinting their eyes and scratching their bald head 'die-a-hwatt?'

The stuff I overhear at auto parts stores sometimes. sighs

Di Electric means it is an insulator. Yeah we all use it but, I can see a very small film on any contact area, just causing a bad connection problem.
Maybe Vaseline is a better option?

Silicon ? Go ask your local body shop if they recommend using any sort of silicon spray lube around your car body?
I don't know why you ever would lol Paint doesn't stick too good to silicone i'd assume
 
He probably gave you the 'seller' product name for the correct and proper name: dielectric grease.
Cuz there will be a senile old fart squinting their eyes and scratching their bald head 'die-a-hwatt?'
Or the immature guy who hasn't grown up from their 20's 'who jokes about applying it to their private parts'

The stuff I overhear at auto parts stores sometimes. sighs
And the stuff heard here....
 
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