Using OEM Parts on 9 year old vehicle 223k miles...

[notharry]

OEM last longer in my experience saving a few dollars here and a few there, and your chasing your tail with bad parts is a waste of time and money. OEM, where it make sense and it does with brakes. Yes OEM does as proven to Normally last longer as the rotors are typically of better quality (better material Less warp and rusting and pads as well. Some will argue... that's my fact or opinion.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

and with the way people are getting damaged goods or previously used parts from Rock Auto.. doesn't look like the savings is really worth it.. I'm not saying to go to Oreilly but there are many other competitors to Rockauto and customers aren't getting used parts.. There's a thread already posted about this..

I've been using Rockauto for many years. Zero issues with used or damaged parts.

 

[KrisZ]

When it comes to brakes, it’s application specific in my limited experience. Some models don’t have good OEM setups so there is little reason to pay for OEM.
Same goes for aftermarket parts, some are better than others. Just because one brand didn’t work out, doesn’t mean others wouldn’t.

But I understand OPs predicament. Take a chance with another aftermarket brand with an unknown outcome, or stick with OEM and know exactly what to expect. Nothing wrong with staying cautious after a disappointment.

 

[Rogueman2016s]

Buying OEM regardless of mileage and age wouldn’t bother me spending the extra buck not getting my money worth out of OEM would bother me more. What’s the guarantee buying oem gets you more for your buck?

 

[notharry]

I'll catch frap for this but here it goes. Here is what I have seen in my 60 some years. OEM Subaru parts are and have always been awesome for the most part. OEM ford is for the most part crap, and aftermarket sometimes equal to crap. OEM Honda and Toyota Awesome. Same aftermarket crap. Mopar crap. Aftermarket better depending on what parts. I have no knowledge of any other brands. It speaks to the brand in general linearly I have found and I always buy a vehicle new and exceed the maintenance to Normal/severe duty. Its like throwing a dart. If it was good on the vehicle when new. I find it will still be the best option. If it was crap when it was new, sometimes aftermarket is better. Better to me is; I drive my vehicle normally and it isn't raced or stressed or towed beyond the manufacturers recommendation. Better to some is I can tow more, Get more power, more strength at the sacrifice of longevity. People there is a difference, right? Opinion are all over the place. So yep this is as clear as mud. And perhaps, just as helpful...

 

[ElectroMechanoMan]

I'll catch frap for this but here it goes. Here is what I have seen in my 60 some years. OEM Subaru parts are and have always been awesome for the most part. OEM ford is for the most part crap, and aftermarket sometimes equal to crap. OEM Honda and Toyota Awesome. Same aftermarket crap. Mopar crap. Aftermarket better depending on what parts. I have no knowledge of any other brands. It speaks to the brand in general linearly I have found and I always buy a vehicle new and exceed the maintenance to Normal/severe duty. Its like throwing a dart. If it was good on the vehicle when new. I find it will still be the best option. If it was crap when it was new, sometimes aftermarket is better. Better to me is; I drive my vehicle normally and it isn't raced or stressed or towed beyond the manufacturers recommendation. Better to some is I can tow more, Get more power, more strength at the sacrifice of longevity. People there is a difference, right? Opinion are all over the place. So yep this is as clear as mud. And perhaps, just as helpful...

I won’t give you any crap! We have all experienced difficulties with parts. If not delivery, it’s quality. I have the same issue with my”real” job.

 

[Luftmasse]

I just looked up the ADVICS rotors and pads for my 2015 RX350

Rotors and Pads, $215 before shipping.

I paid $195 for the Toyota/Lexus OEM pads and rotors.

How much would I have saved at Rock Auto again?

Which website did you use?

$200 for pads and rotors from Lexus is a steal.

 

[notharry]

Which website did you use?

$200 for pads and rotors from Lexus is a steal.

The parts I got were 100% premium Toyota parts, not the cheaper parts they offer. Toyota doesn't have two lines of rotors, they are all the same, the same rotor that comes on the vehicle. They do have two lines of pads, the less expensive pads for this vehicle are about $25 cheaper according to the parts manager. We talked about that Saturday when he brought my parts to me. He confirmed the pads I bought and received were the exact OEM pads.


Also, Toyota doesn't halt production of their parts like the Big 3 do or other makes after 5-7 years. I think many of you who have never owned a Toyota would have a hard time believing how good they are, how many people use OEM Toyota parts on a 15 or 20 year old Toyota and yes, they really still do have them. Another thing is it is a known, researched fact that many Toyota owners take much better care of their vehicles and keep them much longer than any other make.

Where do you find name brand brands? All the auto parts stores ever have is Wagner thermo quiets, then whatever house brand name they have.

One local parts store is a Speed shop. If requested, they will price a OEM part for you. It may be be about the same as a dealer though. In my area is Quirk Parts and is my OEM on-line supplier I mostly use. However, as said there are quite the few on-line What-ever dealers that sell discount on-line. It is a slow process and they don't take phone orders. Sometime it takes a day or so. I think they service everyone else first and then circle back to the on-line orders when they have time. Thus the small savings. Quirk has a ton of brand dealerships. One Semi-local Subaru dealer will honor on-line pricing if you call the parts department first and axe them to, give them the web site address. Not many will I've found and its been a while since I've gone this route as it 25 miles the wrong direction. Once you are in front of them its full retail on most occasions. I just paid 50 to 60 for a set for a 17 outback for rear front rotor pads respectively. As an example. The rear pads wore out around 48,000 miles. Nothing wrong with anything in the system, My guess is the vehicle is just balanced strangely as forum had numerous complaints, More likely. My wife pushed the emergency brake button which is in a bad spot and she piles loads of ... Things on top of it and she drove it that way for a while and for a few times who knows. I asked her if she wanted some Heavy Duty aftermarket ( which we hashed out and strongly said nope OEM). The front pads are about 1/2 wore out at 70,000 and she wears cement shoes to push the gas and brake petals. Other sources for parts OEM Amazon, eBay. I had a warranty claim with CARiD. Lets just say their excuse was Ludacris and I'm still fighting for my $600.00 which is too bad because they were great when things were without issue. Never again

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

Which website did you use?

$200 for pads and rotors from Lexus is a steal.

Using OEM Parts on 9 year old vehicle 223k miles...

I would not spend the extra for OEM brake pads or rotors. Or get ADVICS brakes and rotors from RockAuto and save a little. Its the same OE that makes brake pads for Toyota as Denso does for engine compartment parts.

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

Well, I just did it again.

I just ordered all Honda OEM rotors, pads and retainer clips for my 2008 CR-V that has 200k miles. Total from Honda Parts Now was $255.

I priced out the same items from Rock Auto, all Advics stuff and it was going to be $210 or so.

 

[proveitwithdata]

Toyota is running a 25% sale and free shipping so the difference currently is not indicative of normal pricing deltas between them and aftermarket parts.

 

[camrydriver111]

I am going OEM in the future for old cars. If the rotor is too expensive I will at least get the pad.

I've been disappointed with aftermarket. Poor pedal feel and uneven wear

 

[PandaBear]

Pads and rotors? probably not. I don't do that on my Lexus at 60k either. In my area they don't rust and if my car doesn't brake right I know what to do. Usually just some $50/ea rotor and $30/set pads.

For other parts that are sort of iffy? Probably used / junkyard OEM or brand new from dealer. I am not putting anything CARDONE on my car even if it is 300k.

 

[Timmastertech]

I put a genuine GM reman transfer case in my 02 Suburban with 213k on it earlier this year because I dont want to do it again. I sell a lot of OES/OEM parts because the quality is there that I can stand behind it and not have to worry.

 

[dlundblad]

I would.

 

[The motor guy]

I would.

Mopar brake pads aren't anyore spendy than aftermarket

 

[nthach]

you’re not crazy - when I see someone use OEM or high-quality aftermarket parts, it means to me, you care.

FWIW, all aftermarket rotors are basically the same Chinese iron, just the quality/machining/coating is different. I’ve had luck with Centric and DFC rotors. Pads seem to be made in China or India - for a while, a Canadian company was supplying Raybestos and Monroe.

For the cars I care about, I’ll use OEM or Advics if possible. I’ve put DFC, Centric, Akebono, Bosch and Wagner pads on many things with little issues.

 

[Twisted1]

I definitely would spend the money and have. Bought a 2000 Camry V6 (granny owned 132k mile California car) about a month ago and spent a lot so far on Genuine Toyota parts. Recently had to rip out the crappy KYB quick-struts that initially installed and replaced it with new Toyota struts. I bought EVERYTHING Toyota with it as well (front strut bearings, rubber coil insulators, strut mounts, etc). My car now rides incredibly smooth and quiet compared to the stiff KYB’s that I had on there (and which I had to warranty 3 times on the same strut because the strut mount bearing was made out of plastic). My car is dead quiet now and I love it. No labor costs as I did it all myself. Glad you went the same route!

 

[researcher]

I definitely would spend the money and have. Bought a 2000 Camry V6 (granny owned 132k mile California car) about a month ago and spent a lot so far on Genuine Toyota parts. Recently had to rip out the crappy KYB quick-struts that initially installed and replaced it with new Toyota struts. I bought EVERYTHING Toyota with it as well (front strut bearings, rubber coil insulators, strut mounts, etc). My car now rides incredibly smooth and quiet compared to the stiff KYB’s that I had on there (and which I had to warranty 3 times on the same strut because the strut mount bearing was made out of plastic). My car is dead quiet now and I love it. No labor costs as I did it all myself. Glad you went the same route!

hey!! an update on the new parts! good to hear that you got the Toyota ones installed and SUCCESS! I did the same on my scion tC, it rode well stock and I thought if it made it this long before dying, do it again with Toyota parts! Plus they just aged out, compared to junk aftermarket from the beginning! Glad to hear your Camry is back to quality standards!

 

[RAR]

While this thread was about pads and rotors specifically, in the later example where the OEM Honda parts are around $40+/- over aftermarket, I’d stretch and buy original.

In my situation with my Mini (that I’m just now telling BITOG for the first time), it’s at Motorwerks Mini down in Golden Valley. Service Advisor says that, while my Bosch coils and such check out OK, I should really change them for Mini OEM. I ask what it cost (knowing it’s going to be HUGE). $850!

The Mini N14 plugs and coils can be changed with a ratchet, extension and special socket in 5 minutes total. I told him I’ll do it.

My cost for the correct Delphi coils (which is the original equipment manufacturer for Mini branded coils), including plugs and shipment from RockAuto is $155. That extra $700 must help offset the payments on that fancy coffeemaker in the waiting lounge.