I keep hearing all this what the engine was designed for. Where does that come from? What source or publication is there that states this. It is an internal combustion engine and it needs motor oil. This is not the 50's.
5W-20 recommended in dodge 3.7?
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Originally Posted By: Johnny
I keep hearing all this what the engine was designed for. Where does that come from? What source or publication is there that states this. It is an internal combustion engine and it needs motor oil. This is not the 50's.
Me too. Then I read a quote from one of the "linkys": In 2005, the 3.7 engine was treated to numerous economy and idle-quality changes, with a new cam profile, lash adjusters, rings, and a 9.7:1 compression ratio.
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/37.html it does appear as they said here some changes were made to the engine. So as slight as it might be the engines do go through changes.
While CAFE plays a part it is not the whole equation. Maybe just maybe they did some testing and found later on that 5W20 is better suited for the changes?
Until I see clear proof to the contrary I think I'd use the 20 grade they spec. Again JMO
I keep hearing all this what the engine was designed for. Where does that come from? What source or publication is there that states this. It is an internal combustion engine and it needs motor oil. This is not the 50's.
Me too. Then I read a quote from one of the "linkys": In 2005, the 3.7 engine was treated to numerous economy and idle-quality changes, with a new cam profile, lash adjusters, rings, and a 9.7:1 compression ratio.
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/37.html it does appear as they said here some changes were made to the engine. So as slight as it might be the engines do go through changes.
While CAFE plays a part it is not the whole equation. Maybe just maybe they did some testing and found later on that 5W20 is better suited for the changes?
I've got three cars on 5W-20 and I see no problem with putting at a minimum 300K on each one of them.
Originally Posted By: Johnny
I've got three cars on 5W-20 and I see no problem with putting at a minimum 300K on each one of them.
+1, if I live that long. LOL
I've got three cars on 5W-20 and I see no problem with putting at a minimum 300K on each one of them.
+1, if I live that long. LOL
Now amen to that.
Originally Posted By: Buick92
When did dodge change from recommending 5w-30 to 5w-20 in their 3.7 V6 engines? My 2007 Ram 3.7 (manufactured date 06/2007) says 5w-20 on the oil cap, but 5w-30 is recommended on the dodge website when I downloaded the owner's manual information. Any info would be appreciated.
Buick92,
My Dodge Durango V-8 calls for 5W-30 so that's what I use. I wish I could try a 20W but this forum advised me not to do it due to strict engine specs and going to a lighter weight can ruin my motor.
If you oil cap say it will take the 20W then go for it. The oil is a lighter and can save you a slight amount of gas money in the process although your MPG gain is very slight. If MPG is your thing then switching over to a synthetic wil in addition give a few extra miles although you might not see it on your gas guage.
Durango
When did dodge change from recommending 5w-30 to 5w-20 in their 3.7 V6 engines? My 2007 Ram 3.7 (manufactured date 06/2007) says 5w-20 on the oil cap, but 5w-30 is recommended on the dodge website when I downloaded the owner's manual information. Any info would be appreciated.
Buick92,
My Dodge Durango V-8 calls for 5W-30 so that's what I use. I wish I could try a 20W but this forum advised me not to do it due to strict engine specs and going to a lighter weight can ruin my motor.
If you oil cap say it will take the 20W then go for it. The oil is a lighter and can save you a slight amount of gas money in the process although your MPG gain is very slight. If MPG is your thing then switching over to a synthetic wil in addition give a few extra miles although you might not see it on your gas guage.
Durango
I'll stick with what dodge recommends, Our 2005 Caravan takes 5w-20 so I guess the Ram should be fine on 5w-20 too. Even if it is all CAFE from the research I've done here 5w-20 seems to be a very robust oil that should protech as good as any 5w-30 would.
True, car companies are going to the thinner oils because of CAFE standards but to say that you get better protection from 5W-30 over 5W-20 is thinking like a dinosaur; "that thicker is better". Today's technology allows oil companies to give you just as good of protection with the thinner oils.
we did have a post here some time ago, someone's dad was working for Chrysler, and that engine was in the works 3 years before the takeover. Takeover's don't just happen like that, there is a lot of preliminary, and the 4.7l is a Daimler Benz engine, the 3.7l is just a 6 cylinder version of it. use google search, and you will find a nice write up explaining why this is actually a high tech racing engine, modified for civilian use.
Just to throw a monkey wrench into the "thinner vs thicker" argument that is sort-of going on here....
In the owners manuals for many diesel trucks, they specifically require the use of either 5w40 or 15w40 HDEO (depending on climate) when the truck is to be used for any towing/hauling etc. The owners manual does specify the use of the various 30 weight offerings in HDEO oils when the vehicle is not used for any "load" applications.
Translation/thoughts:
The diesel engine manual analogy is not entirely transferable to gasoline passenger car engine applications, I'm sure that part of the reason for the heavy oil in the diesel has to do with higher particulate accumulations in the oil (diesel produces "soot" when burns, and it inevitably gets into the oil).
However and also: A harder working engine will cause higher oil temperatures and more extreme hot spots for the oil to deal with. A heavier weight oil is necessary to offset the effects of temperature and maintain the same effective viscosity and part separation in critical engine components, like the main bearing. Also, the higher weight oil will often have a higher flash point, further reducing oil "break down" in extreme applications.
Now, we already know that many 5w30 dino oils will shear to a 5w20 in short order, so running a 5w30 dino is pointless if you are trying to achieve some greater level of protection over 5w20. More importantly, one must ask if their engine works hard enough to justify the use of a heavier weight oil. I think the "thin vs thick" argument is not one with any single answer, instead, a smart vehicle owner might take a moment and consider their driving habits and climate and make an appropriate decision about which weight to run. There seems to be this consensus that engines are "engineered" to run a certain weight oil. I feel that this is an inaccurate assumption. For many decades, we have seen car manuals with charts that show the entire range of possible oil weights that one can purchase and use in their engine, each oil weight will have a "bar" on a chart that covers a range of climate and driving conditions. I've seen several of these charts include everything from 5w30 to 20w50. Nowadays, those charts can only be found in the manuals for the same vehicles sold outside of the USA. The same engine that is in my vehicle can be found in several vehicle models in Australia. Mine calls for 5w30, the Australian version calls for 10W40 or 20W50 depending on intended application. Several other vehicles I own or have owned in the past had the neat "charts" with oil weight applications.
Look at the larger picture and make an appropriate decision for your situation. For most people, 5w20 is absolutely perfectly fine. In fact, many engines would probably last just as long on straight 5 weight with the way most people drive.
-Eric
In the owners manuals for many diesel trucks, they specifically require the use of either 5w40 or 15w40 HDEO (depending on climate) when the truck is to be used for any towing/hauling etc. The owners manual does specify the use of the various 30 weight offerings in HDEO oils when the vehicle is not used for any "load" applications.
Translation/thoughts:
The diesel engine manual analogy is not entirely transferable to gasoline passenger car engine applications, I'm sure that part of the reason for the heavy oil in the diesel has to do with higher particulate accumulations in the oil (diesel produces "soot" when burns, and it inevitably gets into the oil).
However and also: A harder working engine will cause higher oil temperatures and more extreme hot spots for the oil to deal with. A heavier weight oil is necessary to offset the effects of temperature and maintain the same effective viscosity and part separation in critical engine components, like the main bearing. Also, the higher weight oil will often have a higher flash point, further reducing oil "break down" in extreme applications.
Now, we already know that many 5w30 dino oils will shear to a 5w20 in short order, so running a 5w30 dino is pointless if you are trying to achieve some greater level of protection over 5w20. More importantly, one must ask if their engine works hard enough to justify the use of a heavier weight oil. I think the "thin vs thick" argument is not one with any single answer, instead, a smart vehicle owner might take a moment and consider their driving habits and climate and make an appropriate decision about which weight to run. There seems to be this consensus that engines are "engineered" to run a certain weight oil. I feel that this is an inaccurate assumption. For many decades, we have seen car manuals with charts that show the entire range of possible oil weights that one can purchase and use in their engine, each oil weight will have a "bar" on a chart that covers a range of climate and driving conditions. I've seen several of these charts include everything from 5w30 to 20w50. Nowadays, those charts can only be found in the manuals for the same vehicles sold outside of the USA. The same engine that is in my vehicle can be found in several vehicle models in Australia. Mine calls for 5w30, the Australian version calls for 10W40 or 20W50 depending on intended application. Several other vehicles I own or have owned in the past had the neat "charts" with oil weight applications.
Look at the larger picture and make an appropriate decision for your situation. For most people, 5w20 is absolutely perfectly fine. In fact, many engines would probably last just as long on straight 5 weight with the way most people drive.
-Eric
Well said.
Originally Posted By: 98dakarM3
Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
i use 50:50 mix of 5w20:5w30.
5w20 is excellent stuff, group 2+, and really thins out the 30 weight nicely. i use conventional 5w20 (it's already almost synthetic) mixed with synthetic 5w30. the 3.7l engine was designed by Daimler/Benz and is a true racing engine, not just a regular Dodge, and in USA it sometimes comes even with a lifetime warranty. the designers built it to go a MINIMUM of 150,000 miles, with just normal maintenance. feed it the oil it needs.
a true racing engine?
one of the worst sounding, least enjoyable racing engines i've had the privilege to wind out... better than the 4.0L but hardly a racing engine
Don't see anything in your stable that has a 3.7 liter V-6. Are you an armchair expert?
Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
i use 50:50 mix of 5w20:5w30.
5w20 is excellent stuff, group 2+, and really thins out the 30 weight nicely. i use conventional 5w20 (it's already almost synthetic) mixed with synthetic 5w30. the 3.7l engine was designed by Daimler/Benz and is a true racing engine, not just a regular Dodge, and in USA it sometimes comes even with a lifetime warranty. the designers built it to go a MINIMUM of 150,000 miles, with just normal maintenance. feed it the oil it needs.
a true racing engine?
one of the worst sounding, least enjoyable racing engines i've had the privilege to wind out... better than the 4.0L but hardly a racing engine
Don't see anything in your stable that has a 3.7 liter V-6. Are you an armchair expert?
My FIL has an '07 Chrysler 300M touring and it has the 3.5L v6. The oil cap on that one specifies 10w-30. I'd be interested in what the MY 2010 models specify. In any case, I didn't expect to see that on a 2007 MY car when many have gone to 5w-20.
Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
and the 4.7l is a Daimler Benz engine, the 3.7l is just a 6 cylinder version of it. use google search, and you will find a nice write up explaining why this is actually a high tech racing engine, modified for civilian use.
Not sure what you're smoking, but they must have some good stuff over there.
and the 4.7l is a Daimler Benz engine, the 3.7l is just a 6 cylinder version of it. use google search, and you will find a nice write up explaining why this is actually a high tech racing engine, modified for civilian use.
Not sure what you're smoking, but they must have some good stuff over there.
On a 2003 Liberty 3.7, that calls for 5w30, would y'all suggest sticking to 5w30, or trying out 5w20 or 10w30?
120k miles, and runs like a top.
Always used the Amsoil Signature series 5w30 on this vehicle with a Mopar filter, changed once a year since late 2002.
I'd like to try the OE series in it next month - choices for me are here - https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3404.pdf
Thx
120k miles, and runs like a top.
Always used the Amsoil Signature series 5w30 on this vehicle with a Mopar filter, changed once a year since late 2002.
I'd like to try the OE series in it next month - choices for me are here - https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3404.pdf
Thx
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