2019 Pentastar 3.6L V6 Anti Drain Back Capability

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I have a 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the 3.6L V6. It uses a cartridge style filter.

Question: Does the oil cooler assembly contain anti drain back capability for the cartridge housing?

Thank you.
 
I have a 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the 3.6L V6. It uses a cartridge style filter.

Question: Does the oil cooler assembly contain anti drain back capability for the cartridge housing?

Thank you.
No it does not. My filter drains completely, which give a bit of rattle on startup, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything. There is a spin-on filter adapter I've seen posted here, but I can't imagine the cost is worth it. I would also have concerns about the torque from tightening and loosening the spin-on filter causing cracking on the not so durable filter/cooler base.
 
Thank you all for the timely replies! BTW, I watched the video of the Pentastar Spin On Adapter and cannot justify its cost and complexity. It may even crack the cartridge end with its added weight and length.
 
I really wouldn't worry much about it. I've owned the 3.6 now across two different vehicles for nearly a decade, never had engine related wear issues. Biggest problem I encountered was a cracked thermostat housing on our old van after 220k on it. Jeep is at almost 50k now and won't force any wear issues either. We use a good quality synthetic like Mobil 1 EP 0w20 or PP
 
Good Morning Everyone,
I was researching the topic of anti drain back capability for the V6 Pentastar engine and learned that in fact it has one. Below I've pasted a thread from March 26, 2023 titled "A V6 Pentastar Upgrade To Avoid" referring to the Baxter device. It is from the Dodge Challenge Forum. I included a second picture that includes how oil flows into the unit and a link to the forum. John does a nice job including instruction to pull the filter first so you drain the filter area oil and then to remove the oil pan drain plug for a complete drain.

For me this design makes perfect sense and is elegant in its simplicity. John also comments at the end how the Baxter unit creates an "inverted pendulum" which was my concern also.

Have a read and, as always, I welcome your thoughts and insights.

A V6 Pentastar Upgrade to Avoid


Watch the video first. Then I'll tell you about the Big Pentastar LIE.
There is a anti drain back valve. The engineers that designed and built the engine aren't stupid. here is how it works, look at the following picture from engineering illustrations.

1699447812707.png
1699447841723.png


For any of you that change your own oil and pull the filter up quick, you can see the canister is full of oil, and then it drains into the pan. This is also why you should change the filter first. Then you won't get a half quart of dirty oil into your new clean oil.
Remember too that excessive torque on the housing is what causes oil change knuckle heads to fracture the housing and not take the blame. If you install this adapter, you also have the weight of a full metal filter acting as an inverted pendulum on the housing.
What do you think people... Can you believe this tripe?
-John
 
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There is a anti drain back valve.
For any of you that change your own oil and pull the filter up quick, you can see the canister is full of oil
This is also why you should change the filter first.
If there is, then it doesn't work very well. When I change oil in either of my Pentastars, if I simply wait for about 15 minutes after I shut them off to change the filter, the entire housing will be empty.
Remember too that excessive torque on the housing is what causes oil change knuckle heads to fracture the housing and not take the blame.
This is true, however my Durango's housing is cracked for the second time. The miles on this cracked housing is 106k. I have been certified as a non-knucklehead, as I have never tightened the housing to more than contact with the base. The o-ring drag was the only torque on the base, ever. I know this to be true, because I'm the only person that has ever tightened the filter on this housing. My opinion is the housing design is flawed.

The factory base was cracked by a certified knucklehead at the dealer, when the Durango went in at around 59k miles for recall work. I explicitly told them not to change the oil, but they did it as a "courtesy". It was Delo 5w-30, which had 500 miles on it. Delo 5w-30 back then was expensive and hard to find. I did not have my happy face on. I got home and dumped their bulk 5w-20 and reinstalled Delo 10w-30. When I removed the filter, the housing was tightened so tight that I had to really leaning on it to break it loose. The housing started leaking within 100 miles of being at the dealer.
 
Good Morning Everyone,
I was researching the topic of anti drain back capability for the V6 Pentastar engine and learned that in fact it has one. Below I've pasted a thread from March 26, 2023 titled "A V6 Pentastar Upgrade To Avoid" referring to the Baxter device. It is from the Dodge Challenge Forum. I included a second picture that includes how oil flows into the unit and a link to the forum. John does a nice job including instruction to pull the filter first so you drain the filter area oil and then to remove the oil pan drain plug for a complete drain.

For me this design makes perfect sense and is elegant in its simplicity. John also comments at the end how the Baxter unit creates an "inverted pendulum" which was my concern also.

Have a read and, as always, I welcome your thoughts and insights.

A V6 Pentastar Upgrade to Avoid


Watch the video first. Then I'll tell you about the Big Pentastar LIE.
There is a anti drain back valve. The engineers that designed and built the engine aren't stupid. here is how it works, look at the following picture from engineering illustrations.

View attachment 187425View attachment 187426

For any of you that change your own oil and pull the filter up quick, you can see the canister is full of oil, and then it drains into the pan. This is also why you should change the filter first. Then you won't get a half quart of dirty oil into your new clean oil.
Remember too that excessive torque on the housing is what causes oil change knuckle heads to fracture the housing and not take the blame. If you install this adapter, you also have the weight of a full metal filter acting as an inverted pendulum on the housing.
What do you think people... Can you believe this tripe?
-John
Benefit of doubt - won’t hurt to pull the filter before drain bolt …
Or just for fun - let it drain good - then pull filter and look …
 
Good Morning WWilson,
I'm sorry for the terrible outcome at the dealership. :cry: I hope they replaced the housing for you at no charge. Your experience with the certified knuckle head continues to reinforce the benefits of doing this work ourselves.
I'm not sure of the year of your vehicle but I also learned that the housing was revised in 2014 to make it stronger and the filter cap was revised to move the by-pass valve into it.
 
I'm not sure of the year of your vehicle but I also learned that the housing was revised in 2014 to make it stronger
It's a 2014 and I was told by the dealer that I got the revised filter housing, which is supposed to be a better design.

filter cap was revised to move the by-pass valve into it.
I see nothing in the cap to indicate any sort of by-pass mechanism. It's just a cap.
 
Benefit of doubt - won’t hurt to pull the filter before drain bolt …
Or just for fun - let it drain good - then pull filter and look …
I agree with you 4WD.

Whenever I've done my oil change, I would start with the drain plug then move to working under the hood. About 10 minutes would pass before I'd be removing the cartridge and there was always a little puddle of oil in the base. When I'd install the new filter the base was empty so I believe this anti-drain back design works.
 
It's a 2014 and I was told by the dealer that I got the revised filter housing, which is supposed to be a better design.


I see nothing in the cap to indicate any sort of by-pass mechanism. It's just a cap.
Great outcome for you in getting the stronger revised filter housing. :)

I'll see if I can find the video I watched that detailed the changes to the cap. Prior to 2014, the by-pass was in a long tower in the cartidge housing and the spring could eject with removal of the cartridge.
 
Great outcome for you in getting the stronger revised filter housing. :)

I'll see if I can find the video I watched that detailed the changes to the cap. Prior to 2014, the by-pass was in a long tower in the cartidge housing and the spring could eject with removal of the cartridge.
I found two videos that do a good job of showing the old and new designs for the by pass valve.

1st generation by-pass valve through 2013. Note shorter cap because the valve is in the tall tower in the housing.


2nd generation improved by-pass valve 2014-today. Note how the cap we have has gotten taller to accommodate the valve.


Like the anti-drain back design, the engineers did a good job in simplifying the by-pass valve design.
 
I agree with you 4WD.

Whenever I've done my oil change, I would start with the drain plug then move to working under the hood. About 10 minutes would pass before I'd be removing the cartridge and there was always a little puddle of oil in the base. When I'd install the new filter the base was empty so I believe this anti-drain back design works.
That port makes sense - you pull a well saturated filter - and without that port the dry filter going in could plunge oil upwards …

IMG_8976.jpeg
 
Have had numerous 3.6's. I've never changed the O-ring. Never. A new O-ring has to be squished into the canister making the cap hard to turn. I turn cap in until it touches the base, STOP!!!!!!!!!! Never had a leak. Also you can install O-ring in the wrong place.
 
Have had numerous 3.6's. I've never changed the O-ring. Never. A new O-ring has to be squished into the canister making the cap hard to turn. I turn cap in until it touches the base, STOP!!!!!!!!!! Never had a leak. Also you can install O-ring in the wrong place.
Oldhp I appreciate the tip. I always thought it was the plastic on plastic threads creating the resistance when reinstalling the cap. I will be trying your tip on my next oil change.
 
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