19995 Toyota corolla most of those have like 300k miles by now
$ 1,000 Vehicle Challenge
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At $1000, IMO you will find:
1) stuff that still runs but is nasty - extreme filth, body damage and/or rust
2) stuff that is in decent shape but has serious mechanical problems that must be repaired
3) maybe someone who is selling a decent car way too cheap
The Bottle Rockets' classic song, "Thousand Dollar Car" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzim1iYhmGA) was released 25 years ago... that's $1750 in today's dollars!
1) stuff that still runs but is nasty - extreme filth, body damage and/or rust
2) stuff that is in decent shape but has serious mechanical problems that must be repaired
3) maybe someone who is selling a decent car way too cheap
The Bottle Rockets' classic song, "Thousand Dollar Car" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzim1iYhmGA) was released 25 years ago... that's $1750 in today's dollars!
But it's only 2019, the 19995 Corolla isn't out yet
Originally Posted by tahoe_hybrid
19995 Toyota corolla most of those have like 300k miles by now
Originally Posted by tahoe_hybrid
19995 Toyota corolla most of those have like 300k miles by now
I lucked out on my Camry, $1,500. Gave myself a $1,000 budget to fix it up; was off a bit, more like $1,300 by the end of a year. Was super clean when I got it, she must have had it detailed. It's major issue? People, no matter how cheap, think a car needs to be pristine looking. My car has all the clearcoat gone. Ugly car! no one wanted! Despite having only 140k on the clock it sat on CL for a week or two. Works great for me, hot Arizona sun may have destroyed the paint but it was rust free underneath. Just wrapping up a third year on this beater.
Makes me wonder, do you have a total budget in mind? You could blow it all upfront on purchase, or buy something with known problems and spend that budget on the backend.
Makes me wonder, do you have a total budget in mind? You could blow it all upfront on purchase, or buy something with known problems and spend that budget on the backend.
Originally Posted by brages
At $1000, IMO you will find:
1) stuff that still runs but is nasty - extreme filth, body damage and/or rust
2) stuff that is in decent shape but has serious mechanical problems that must be repaired
3) maybe someone who is selling a decent car way too cheap
1 & 2
If you think you've found a 3, it's likely still a 2 or about to be, the owner knows it and you haven't spotted or been told the problem(s). As mentioned several times, out of style grandpa sedans are the most likely to be close to a 3.
At $1000, IMO you will find:
1) stuff that still runs but is nasty - extreme filth, body damage and/or rust
2) stuff that is in decent shape but has serious mechanical problems that must be repaired
3) maybe someone who is selling a decent car way too cheap
1 & 2
If you think you've found a 3, it's likely still a 2 or about to be, the owner knows it and you haven't spotted or been told the problem(s). As mentioned several times, out of style grandpa sedans are the most likely to be close to a 3.
Originally Posted by MrMoody
Originally Posted by brages
At $1000, IMO you will find:
1) stuff that still runs but is nasty - extreme filth, body damage and/or rust
2) stuff that is in decent shape but has serious mechanical problems that must be repaired
3) maybe someone who is selling a decent car way too cheap
1 & 2
If you think you've found a 3, it's likely still a 2 or about to be, the owner knows it and you haven't spotted or been told the problem(s). As mentioned several times, out of style grandpa sedans are the most likely to be close to a 3.
Agreed!
Especially in NY. If it doesn't pass the OBDII diagnostic port scan, it doesn't pass the mandatory yearly state inspection process. You have to shoot for something
Aside from all that, you'd be lucky to find an old Ford Focus, or maybe a Chevy Cavalier, or the Olds, Pontiac version of that for a grand. Toyota, Honda or Subaru for a $1000 is going to need major work.
Originally Posted by brages
At $1000, IMO you will find:
1) stuff that still runs but is nasty - extreme filth, body damage and/or rust
2) stuff that is in decent shape but has serious mechanical problems that must be repaired
3) maybe someone who is selling a decent car way too cheap
1 & 2
If you think you've found a 3, it's likely still a 2 or about to be, the owner knows it and you haven't spotted or been told the problem(s). As mentioned several times, out of style grandpa sedans are the most likely to be close to a 3.
Agreed!
Especially in NY. If it doesn't pass the OBDII diagnostic port scan, it doesn't pass the mandatory yearly state inspection process. You have to shoot for something
Aside from all that, you'd be lucky to find an old Ford Focus, or maybe a Chevy Cavalier, or the Olds, Pontiac version of that for a grand. Toyota, Honda or Subaru for a $1000 is going to need major work.
I paid $1500 Canadian (probably close to $1000 US) for my 83 Caprice 10 years ago. 75k miles later and 10 years I've probably spent a couple grand total. 236k miles on it, original engine, replaced valve seals once, valve cover gaskets twice, put a used carb on once, spark plugs a few times, wires once, cap and rotor a couple times, pinion seal in the rear end, transmission mount, transmission output shaft seal, other stuff I'm forgetting. Just nickel and dime stuff that added up over 10 years.
Originally Posted by MarkM66
Good luck. Stuff I see under $1k "needs and engine."
But they just replace the wheel barron and the tires have good threads. Just need it gone now...NO TEXTS.
Good luck. Stuff I see under $1k "needs and engine."
But they just replace the wheel barron and the tires have good threads. Just need it gone now...NO TEXTS.
Originally Posted by 14Accent
Originally Posted by Wolf359
Originally Posted by donnyj08
2000-2005 Ford Taurus 3.0 Vulcan.
Ugh, the Vulcan had 155hp vs the 200hp in the Duratec. At this age, they're probably the same price or a few hundred dollars more. The SEL and SE models were more likely to have the Duratec and there's always the Mercury Sable LS which normally had the Duratec in that trim.
https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/cto/d/hazlet-2004-mercury-sable-ls-premium/6955458151.html
To be fair, the Vulcan and the Duratec feel practically identical around town. The Duratec makes more power, obviously, but it's at the upper end of the rev range. Most people would never notice, and the Vulcan is leaps and bounds easier to work on than the Duratec. Take the alternator, for example. Vulcan? Maybe an hour. Duratec? At least 3. Which would you rather fix in your "beater"?
I had the Duratec so never drove the Vulcan. It had decent pep on the highway. On the forums some do notice the difference with the Duratec, seems normal, Vulcan is like a dog. As for the alternator, neither, had to replace 3 of them, had a mechanic do it. There's one trick where you flip the alternator around and you can get it out of the wheel well. Then you don't have to drop the subframe and a bunch of other stuff so it's no longer a 3 hour job. But yes, the Vulcan is much easier as it's on top and easy to get to.
Originally Posted by Wolf359
Originally Posted by donnyj08
2000-2005 Ford Taurus 3.0 Vulcan.
Ugh, the Vulcan had 155hp vs the 200hp in the Duratec. At this age, they're probably the same price or a few hundred dollars more. The SEL and SE models were more likely to have the Duratec and there's always the Mercury Sable LS which normally had the Duratec in that trim.
https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/cto/d/hazlet-2004-mercury-sable-ls-premium/6955458151.html
To be fair, the Vulcan and the Duratec feel practically identical around town. The Duratec makes more power, obviously, but it's at the upper end of the rev range. Most people would never notice, and the Vulcan is leaps and bounds easier to work on than the Duratec. Take the alternator, for example. Vulcan? Maybe an hour. Duratec? At least 3. Which would you rather fix in your "beater"?
I had the Duratec so never drove the Vulcan. It had decent pep on the highway. On the forums some do notice the difference with the Duratec, seems normal, Vulcan is like a dog. As for the alternator, neither, had to replace 3 of them, had a mechanic do it. There's one trick where you flip the alternator around and you can get it out of the wheel well. Then you don't have to drop the subframe and a bunch of other stuff so it's no longer a 3 hour job. But yes, the Vulcan is much easier as it's on top and easy to get to.
Originally Posted by 01rangerxl
Originally Posted by MarkM66
Good luck. Stuff I see under $1k "needs and engine."
But they just replace the wheel barron and the tires have good threads. Just need it gone now...NO TEXTS.
The bumber has a scratch and it has new breaks. Ran when parked!
Originally Posted by MarkM66
Good luck. Stuff I see under $1k "needs and engine."
But they just replace the wheel barron and the tires have good threads. Just need it gone now...NO TEXTS.
The bumber has a scratch and it has new breaks. Ran when parked!
didn't the Cavaliers used to be called Pontiac Sunfire?
The already mentioned Pontiac Vibe.
Also, ford focus wagon.
The already mentioned Pontiac Vibe.
Also, ford focus wagon.
I had a 2000 Cavalier I would have sold you for $1,000. It wasn't pretty by far but I couldn't kill the thing.
Originally Posted by Anduril
I had a 2000 Cavalier I would have sold you for $1,000. It wasn't pretty by far but I couldn't kill the thing.
I bought a 01 Sunfire in May 2016 for $900. Sold it in March 2019 for $500. I slid sideways into a stop sign and messed up the side of the car and rear alignment. I also put about 40,000 miles on it. It was honestly a cheap car that was awesome to abuse and keep running. Looked like junk though.
I had a 2000 Cavalier I would have sold you for $1,000. It wasn't pretty by far but I couldn't kill the thing.
I bought a 01 Sunfire in May 2016 for $900. Sold it in March 2019 for $500. I slid sideways into a stop sign and messed up the side of the car and rear alignment. I also put about 40,000 miles on it. It was honestly a cheap car that was awesome to abuse and keep running. Looked like junk though.
1995 Honda Civic
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