I live in N Florida and ran M1 AFE 0w-20 it did the job fine. I have M1 HM 10w-30 in there now which is substantially thicker and I can’t tell a difference in the engine. It’s lived on 5w-20 most of its life and now burns some oil.
0W-20 for Texas winters/summers good?
- Thread starter crazy_raccoon
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Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: nap
My hat off to people that practice what they preach.
But I've also used 5w30 and even 5w40. My point isn't that CAFE is the be-all-end-all, it's that multiple viscosity will work just fine.
*and 10w30 and 0w30.
I agree. I was never a believer in a one size fits all mentality when it comes to oil selection. I reminds me of a lubed for life mentality. Whose life?
Originally Posted By: nap
My hat off to people that practice what they preach.
But I've also used 5w30 and even 5w40. My point isn't that CAFE is the be-all-end-all, it's that multiple viscosity will work just fine.
*and 10w30 and 0w30.
I agree. I was never a believer in a one size fits all mentality when it comes to oil selection. I reminds me of a lubed for life mentality. Whose life?
Ok, here is a humble questioning of the consensus here that a 5w30 is better for Texas heat, which is an interesting concept, in and of itself, because I'm wondering how 95 degrees in Texas might be different from the same temperature anywhere else, but I guess everything is bigger in Texas, but I digress...
I'm running Mobil 1 AP in my 2018 Jeep. Mobil 1 0w20 has the best flash and pour point performance I've found among their products that would be reasonable for my 3.6 engine. Looking at just the AP oils, which they market as their highest performing oils, I compared the 0w20 to 5w30. The pour point is no surprise, with the 20 weight coming in at -51 C, while the 5w30 comes in at -45. (Still impressive, while not as low.) Here is where it gets interesting and I submit it to the debate. The 0w20 has a higher flash point, at 242, compared to 232. It beats the 5w20, as well, which comes in at 236. (Again, all in Centigrade)
So, it may be more complex than this, but it looks like the 0w20 will handle heat better than the 5w30,as well as flowing at a significantly lower temp. I'm betting there is a higher performing base stock in the 0w20 that makes the difference here, so that's what is going in my engine, even if in the big heat of Texas.
Just for perspective, the advantage is a flash point of 467.6 degrees Fahrenheit for the 0w20 vs. 449.6 for the 5w30, which I take to mean that the 20 has just over 17 degrees of cushion when the 5w30 starts to burn up. Sounds like a big difference, to me.
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
Of course, I am a Mobil 1 customer, but I've not found any other brand that outperforms this ow20 on pour point, flash point, or the full spread. (Amsoil might, but I haven't looked.)
Thoughts?
I'm running Mobil 1 AP in my 2018 Jeep. Mobil 1 0w20 has the best flash and pour point performance I've found among their products that would be reasonable for my 3.6 engine. Looking at just the AP oils, which they market as their highest performing oils, I compared the 0w20 to 5w30. The pour point is no surprise, with the 20 weight coming in at -51 C, while the 5w30 comes in at -45. (Still impressive, while not as low.) Here is where it gets interesting and I submit it to the debate. The 0w20 has a higher flash point, at 242, compared to 232. It beats the 5w20, as well, which comes in at 236. (Again, all in Centigrade)
So, it may be more complex than this, but it looks like the 0w20 will handle heat better than the 5w30,as well as flowing at a significantly lower temp. I'm betting there is a higher performing base stock in the 0w20 that makes the difference here, so that's what is going in my engine, even if in the big heat of Texas.
Just for perspective, the advantage is a flash point of 467.6 degrees Fahrenheit for the 0w20 vs. 449.6 for the 5w30, which I take to mean that the 20 has just over 17 degrees of cushion when the 5w30 starts to burn up. Sounds like a big difference, to me.
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
Of course, I am a Mobil 1 customer, but I've not found any other brand that outperforms this ow20 on pour point, flash point, or the full spread. (Amsoil might, but I haven't looked.)
Thoughts?
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Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
I'm currently located in central Texas and been trying to figure which oils are good for our vehicles (read signature) year round or if I should switch due to the seasons. Most of the topics just talk about using a particular oil year round due to their climate but I'm Texas it can be bipolar [censored]. Some winters it can get in the single digits (rarely) and easily triple digits in the summer. I'm currently deployed and plan on doing UOAs for our vehicles when I get back to get a better feel.
5w30 year around and your good to go.
Thank you for your service, stay safe.
I'm currently located in central Texas and been trying to figure which oils are good for our vehicles (read signature) year round or if I should switch due to the seasons. Most of the topics just talk about using a particular oil year round due to their climate but I'm Texas it can be bipolar [censored]. Some winters it can get in the single digits (rarely) and easily triple digits in the summer. I'm currently deployed and plan on doing UOAs for our vehicles when I get back to get a better feel.
5w30 year around and your good to go.
Thank you for your service, stay safe.
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Ok, here is a humble questioning of the consensus here that a 5w30 is better for Texas heat, which is an interesting concept, in and of itself, because I'm wondering how 95 degrees in Texas might be different from the same temperature anywhere else, but I guess everything is bigger in Texas, but I digress...
I'm running Mobil 1 AP in my 2018 Jeep. Mobil 1 0w20 has the best flash and pour point performance I've found among their products that would be reasonable for my 3.6 engine. Looking at just the AP oils, which they market as their highest performing oils, I compared the 0w20 to 5w30. The pour point is no surprise, with the 20 weight coming in at -51 C, while the 5w30 comes in at -45. (Still impressive, while not as low.) Here is where it gets interesting and I submit it to the debate. The 0w20 has a higher flash point, at 242, compared to 232. It beats the 5w20, as well, which comes in at 236. (Again, all in Centigrade)
So, it may be more complex than this, but it looks like the 0w20 will handle heat better than the 5w30,as well as flowing at a significantly lower temp. I'm betting there is a higher performing base stock in the 0w20 that makes the difference here, so that's what is going in my engine, even if in the big heat of Texas.
Just for perspective, the advantage is a flash point of 467.6 degrees Fahrenheit for the 0w20 vs. 449.6 for the 5w30, which I take to mean that the 20 has just over 17 degrees of cushion when the 5w30 starts to burn up. Sounds like a big difference, to me.
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
Of course, I am a Mobil 1 customer, but I've not found any other brand that outperforms this ow20 on pour point, flash point, or the full spread. (Amsoil might, but I haven't looked.)
Thoughts?
Interesting, and you make some good points. I'm just curious, have you looked at AFE 0W30? Are you aware that Mobil 1 still doesn't meet the MS6395 Jeep/Chrysler spec your 2018 Jeep warranty calls for? With regard to the 20 grade handling heat better, Ford calls for 50 grade oils in engines that are tracked that normally call for a 20 grade oil in some applications. We've beaten that horse to death here too. I'd venture to say the 20 grade flash point is better than the 50 grade is too, but I haven't looked. Either way they have their reasons, and they had their reasons to bump some engines from an original 20 grade spec to a 30 grade. Many have said it was to reduce warranty claims.
Ok, here is a humble questioning of the consensus here that a 5w30 is better for Texas heat, which is an interesting concept, in and of itself, because I'm wondering how 95 degrees in Texas might be different from the same temperature anywhere else, but I guess everything is bigger in Texas, but I digress...
I'm running Mobil 1 AP in my 2018 Jeep. Mobil 1 0w20 has the best flash and pour point performance I've found among their products that would be reasonable for my 3.6 engine. Looking at just the AP oils, which they market as their highest performing oils, I compared the 0w20 to 5w30. The pour point is no surprise, with the 20 weight coming in at -51 C, while the 5w30 comes in at -45. (Still impressive, while not as low.) Here is where it gets interesting and I submit it to the debate. The 0w20 has a higher flash point, at 242, compared to 232. It beats the 5w20, as well, which comes in at 236. (Again, all in Centigrade)
So, it may be more complex than this, but it looks like the 0w20 will handle heat better than the 5w30,as well as flowing at a significantly lower temp. I'm betting there is a higher performing base stock in the 0w20 that makes the difference here, so that's what is going in my engine, even if in the big heat of Texas.
Just for perspective, the advantage is a flash point of 467.6 degrees Fahrenheit for the 0w20 vs. 449.6 for the 5w30, which I take to mean that the 20 has just over 17 degrees of cushion when the 5w30 starts to burn up. Sounds like a big difference, to me.
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
Of course, I am a Mobil 1 customer, but I've not found any other brand that outperforms this ow20 on pour point, flash point, or the full spread. (Amsoil might, but I haven't looked.)
Thoughts?
Interesting, and you make some good points. I'm just curious, have you looked at AFE 0W30? Are you aware that Mobil 1 still doesn't meet the MS6395 Jeep/Chrysler spec your 2018 Jeep warranty calls for? With regard to the 20 grade handling heat better, Ford calls for 50 grade oils in engines that are tracked that normally call for a 20 grade oil in some applications. We've beaten that horse to death here too. I'd venture to say the 20 grade flash point is better than the 50 grade is too, but I haven't looked. Either way they have their reasons, and they had their reasons to bump some engines from an original 20 grade spec to a 30 grade. Many have said it was to reduce warranty claims.
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When comparing FP Mobil uses a 92 spec in PCMO vrs a 93 spec . Spec 93 will exibit Higher FP than a 92 spec that Mobil 1 uses .
I'm in Central Texas, also - and this is my thinking on oil viscosity choices and weather.
Oil as works like marbles forced or splashed between moving parts to do 3 things: Keep opposing parts apart. Cool - and or or draw away heat and disperse it elsewhere. And remove oil that goes bad – as residues, acids, and sludge, by filtering, dilution, letting it settle elsewhere, and drain out and replacement.
For this discussion, lets talk viscosity: Refining separates the molecule size. Engineers test engine with different oils to decide the weight or molecule size. Since petroleum is full of many ingredients - heavy in alkaline and sulfur, what’s not extracted have neutralizers added to control them - but must also work to lube and clean the engines breakdown of oil into sludge - yet keeping the viscosity with in limits. Rigorous testing and extra ingredients added help the oil - hot or cold lube. Cost and profit is a factor to what you get - or not get.
Now, there is no perfect oil. An oil suggested as your engines oil is based on average life expectancy. Some drivers will have problems - others will get a much longer life. Somewhere in this average are those looking to solve problems their oil cannot – because their driving is below average. Additives sold aftermarket supplement this. And so does repair.
At - [link removed] - coverage of problems specific additives correct are given. The education given takes the guesswork out of wear and tear and performance problem solving - showing what works and what additives are harmful. This techy info, in plain talk, is for those out-of-the-average drivers wanting specific chemical medication as their fix. That is the help you need!
In hot south, or fridget north, its not viscosity - its, if you happen to be out of the average in the way you drive, and what additives you choose for the problem, determines your best repair or fix remedy. Its not weather! Its understanding what happens to your engine – and the additive you use as its fill for the weakness your type driving produces. That’s my take on viscosity. ... george
Oil as works like marbles forced or splashed between moving parts to do 3 things: Keep opposing parts apart. Cool - and or or draw away heat and disperse it elsewhere. And remove oil that goes bad – as residues, acids, and sludge, by filtering, dilution, letting it settle elsewhere, and drain out and replacement.
For this discussion, lets talk viscosity: Refining separates the molecule size. Engineers test engine with different oils to decide the weight or molecule size. Since petroleum is full of many ingredients - heavy in alkaline and sulfur, what’s not extracted have neutralizers added to control them - but must also work to lube and clean the engines breakdown of oil into sludge - yet keeping the viscosity with in limits. Rigorous testing and extra ingredients added help the oil - hot or cold lube. Cost and profit is a factor to what you get - or not get.
Now, there is no perfect oil. An oil suggested as your engines oil is based on average life expectancy. Some drivers will have problems - others will get a much longer life. Somewhere in this average are those looking to solve problems their oil cannot – because their driving is below average. Additives sold aftermarket supplement this. And so does repair.
At - [link removed] - coverage of problems specific additives correct are given. The education given takes the guesswork out of wear and tear and performance problem solving - showing what works and what additives are harmful. This techy info, in plain talk, is for those out-of-the-average drivers wanting specific chemical medication as their fix. That is the help you need!
In hot south, or fridget north, its not viscosity - its, if you happen to be out of the average in the way you drive, and what additives you choose for the problem, determines your best repair or fix remedy. Its not weather! Its understanding what happens to your engine – and the additive you use as its fill for the weakness your type driving produces. That’s my take on viscosity. ... george
Last edited by a moderator:
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Ok, here is a humble questioning of the consensus here that a 5w30 is better for Texas heat, which is an interesting concept, in and of itself, because I'm wondering how 95 degrees in Texas might be different from the same temperature anywhere else, but I guess everything is bigger in Texas, but I digress...
I'm running Mobil 1 AP in my 2018 Jeep. Mobil 1 0w20 has the best flash and pour point performance I've found among their products that would be reasonable for my 3.6 engine. Looking at just the AP oils, which they market as their highest performing oils, I compared the 0w20 to 5w30. The pour point is no surprise, with the 20 weight coming in at -51 C, while the 5w30 comes in at -45. (Still impressive, while not as low.) Here is where it gets interesting and I submit it to the debate. The 0w20 has a higher flash point, at 242, compared to 232. It beats the 5w20, as well, which comes in at 236. (Again, all in Centigrade)
So, it may be more complex than this, but it looks like the 0w20 will handle heat better than the 5w30,as well as flowing at a significantly lower temp. I'm betting there is a higher performing base stock in the 0w20 that makes the difference here, so that's what is going in my engine, even if in the big heat of Texas.
Just for perspective, the advantage is a flash point of 467.6 degrees Fahrenheit for the 0w20 vs. 449.6 for the 5w30, which I take to mean that the 20 has just over 17 degrees of cushion when the 5w30 starts to burn up. Sounds like a big difference, to me.
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
Of course, I am a Mobil 1 customer, but I've not found any other brand that outperforms this ow20 on pour point, flash point, or the full spread. (Amsoil might, but I haven't looked.)
Thoughts?
Interesting, and you make some good points. I'm just curious, have you looked at AFE 0W30? Are you aware that Mobil 1 still doesn't meet the MS6395 Jeep/Chrysler spec your 2018 Jeep warranty calls for? With regard to the 20 grade handling heat better, Ford calls for 50 grade oils in engines that are tracked that normally call for a 20 grade oil in some applications. We've beaten that horse to death here too. I'd venture to say the 20 grade flash point is better than the 50 grade is too, but I haven't looked. Either way they have their reasons, and they had their reasons to bump some engines from an original 20 grade spec to a 30 grade. Many have said it was to reduce warranty claims.
Yep. Aware of all of it. I also know I've had 35 years experience using Mobil 1 oils without a single issue, and I've never seen a common automobile engine harmed by any API certified oil that was in or close to the manufacturer's specified weight, and where there was no contributing design flaw in the engine itself. I also know that political/business reasons are why Mobil 1 oils don't get MS6395 certification. I'm highly confident M1 AP 0w20 would easily exceed the demands of that spec. I'm also fully aware that many dealership put Mobil 1 in Jeeps with their premium oil changes. Mobil 1 has a warranty, anyway. I don't lose sleep over the possibility of failure of that oil.
Finally, I like questioning conventional wisdom. I find it interesting, as sometimes the horse beaten so severely turns out to be the wrong one. In the mean time, I fully expect this engine to do well with AP 0w20 and Fram Ultra filters on whatever OCI the OLM dictates, once I get through my initial break in changes.
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Ok, here is a humble questioning of the consensus here that a 5w30 is better for Texas heat, which is an interesting concept, in and of itself, because I'm wondering how 95 degrees in Texas might be different from the same temperature anywhere else, but I guess everything is bigger in Texas, but I digress...
I'm running Mobil 1 AP in my 2018 Jeep. Mobil 1 0w20 has the best flash and pour point performance I've found among their products that would be reasonable for my 3.6 engine. Looking at just the AP oils, which they market as their highest performing oils, I compared the 0w20 to 5w30. The pour point is no surprise, with the 20 weight coming in at -51 C, while the 5w30 comes in at -45. (Still impressive, while not as low.) Here is where it gets interesting and I submit it to the debate. The 0w20 has a higher flash point, at 242, compared to 232. It beats the 5w20, as well, which comes in at 236. (Again, all in Centigrade)
So, it may be more complex than this, but it looks like the 0w20 will handle heat better than the 5w30,as well as flowing at a significantly lower temp. I'm betting there is a higher performing base stock in the 0w20 that makes the difference here, so that's what is going in my engine, even if in the big heat of Texas.
Just for perspective, the advantage is a flash point of 467.6 degrees Fahrenheit for the 0w20 vs. 449.6 for the 5w30, which I take to mean that the 20 has just over 17 degrees of cushion when the 5w30 starts to burn up. Sounds like a big difference, to me.
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
Of course, I am a Mobil 1 customer, but I've not found any other brand that outperforms this ow20 on pour point, flash point, or the full spread. (Amsoil might, but I haven't looked.)
Thoughts?
Interesting, and you make some good points. I'm just curious, have you looked at AFE 0W30? Are you aware that Mobil 1 still doesn't meet the MS6395 Jeep/Chrysler spec your 2018 Jeep warranty calls for? With regard to the 20 grade handling heat better, Ford calls for 50 grade oils in engines that are tracked that normally call for a 20 grade oil in some applications. We've beaten that horse to death here too. I'd venture to say the 20 grade flash point is better than the 50 grade is too, but I haven't looked. Either way they have their reasons, and they had their reasons to bump some engines from an original 20 grade spec to a 30 grade. Many have said it was to reduce warranty claims.
Yep. Aware of all of it. I also know I've had 35 years experience using Mobil 1 oils without a single issue, and I've never seen a common automobile engine harmed by any API certified oil that was in or close to the manufacturer's specified weight, and where there was no contributing design flaw in the engine itself. I also know that political/business reasons are why Mobil 1 oils don't get MS6395 certification. I'm highly confident M1 AP 0w20 would easily exceed the demands of that spec. I'm also fully aware that many dealership put Mobil 1 in Jeeps with their premium oil changes. Mobil 1 has a warranty, anyway. I don't lose sleep over the possibility of failure of that oil.
Finally, I like questioning conventional wisdom. I find it interesting, as sometimes the horse beaten so severely turns out to be the wrong one. In the mean time, I fully expect this engine to do well with AP 0w20 and Fram Ultra filters on whatever OCI the OLM dictates, once I get through my initial break in changes.
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In your three posts since 2011 you've promoted additives each time, and that website twice. You don't happen to have some sort of connection to any of that, do you?
Originally Posted By: cardoctor2
I'm in Central Texas, also - and this is my thinking on oil viscosity choices and weather.
Oil as works like marbles forced or splashed between moving parts to do 3 things: Keep opposing parts apart. Cool - and or or draw away heat and disperse it elsewhere. And remove oil that goes bad – as residues, acids, and sludge, by filtering, dilution, letting it settle elsewhere, and drain out and replacement.
For this discussion, lets talk viscosity: Refining separates the molecule size. Engineers test engine with different oils to decide the weight or molecule size. Since petroleum is full of many ingredients - heavy in alkaline and sulfur, what’s not extracted have neutralizers added to control them - but must also work to lube and clean the engines breakdown of oil into sludge - yet keeping the viscosity with in limits. Rigorous testing and extra ingredients added help the oil - hot or cold lube. Cost and profit is a factor to what you get - or not get.
Now, there is no perfect oil. An oil suggested as your engines oil is based on average life expectancy. Some drivers will have problems - others will get a much longer life. Somewhere in this average are those looking to solve problems their oil cannot – because their driving is below average. Additives sold aftermarket supplement this. And so does repair.
At - auto-tune-up-and-repair-options.com - coverage of problems specific additives correct are given. The education given takes the guesswork out of wear and tear and performance problem solving - showing what works and what additives are harmful. This techy info, in plain talk, is for those out-of-the-average drivers wanting specific chemical medication as their fix. That is the help you need!
In hot south, or fridget north, its not viscosity - its, if you happen to be out of the average in the way you drive, and what additives you choose for the problem, determines your best repair or fix remedy. Its not weather! Its understanding what happens to your engine – and the additive you use as its fill for the weakness your type driving produces. That’s my take on viscosity. ... george
Originally Posted By: cardoctor2
I'm in Central Texas, also - and this is my thinking on oil viscosity choices and weather.
Oil as works like marbles forced or splashed between moving parts to do 3 things: Keep opposing parts apart. Cool - and or or draw away heat and disperse it elsewhere. And remove oil that goes bad – as residues, acids, and sludge, by filtering, dilution, letting it settle elsewhere, and drain out and replacement.
For this discussion, lets talk viscosity: Refining separates the molecule size. Engineers test engine with different oils to decide the weight or molecule size. Since petroleum is full of many ingredients - heavy in alkaline and sulfur, what’s not extracted have neutralizers added to control them - but must also work to lube and clean the engines breakdown of oil into sludge - yet keeping the viscosity with in limits. Rigorous testing and extra ingredients added help the oil - hot or cold lube. Cost and profit is a factor to what you get - or not get.
Now, there is no perfect oil. An oil suggested as your engines oil is based on average life expectancy. Some drivers will have problems - others will get a much longer life. Somewhere in this average are those looking to solve problems their oil cannot – because their driving is below average. Additives sold aftermarket supplement this. And so does repair.
At - auto-tune-up-and-repair-options.com - coverage of problems specific additives correct are given. The education given takes the guesswork out of wear and tear and performance problem solving - showing what works and what additives are harmful. This techy info, in plain talk, is for those out-of-the-average drivers wanting specific chemical medication as their fix. That is the help you need!
In hot south, or fridget north, its not viscosity - its, if you happen to be out of the average in the way you drive, and what additives you choose for the problem, determines your best repair or fix remedy. Its not weather! Its understanding what happens to your engine – and the additive you use as its fill for the weakness your type driving produces. That’s my take on viscosity. ... george
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: Rat407
Any reason not to follow what is printed in the owners manual? As stated above, they have a chart to follow according to various temperatures.
Yeah. Its still CAFE compromised.
Had CAFE never existed, 10w-30 would likely be called for extensivly throughout the US except for frigid regions.
And that same "CAFE compromised" oil still works great. Yes, it's CAFE, yes it's government mandated, yes it's primarily for FE and yes, it's primarily recommended N.America and Japan. A huge swath of consumers want better, no matter how miniscule, mpg. They are fine with thin oils and could really care less what's espoused on this forum since CAFE works for them now, and has since the late 70s.
I really dont care "who" is "fine" with "what". The poster asked a question, and I answered correctly and accurately. Thats the way this forum works. You and "the swath" are free to choose what ever oil you want. I don't give a flip.
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: Rat407
Any reason not to follow what is printed in the owners manual? As stated above, they have a chart to follow according to various temperatures.
Yeah. Its still CAFE compromised.
Had CAFE never existed, 10w-30 would likely be called for extensivly throughout the US except for frigid regions.
And that same "CAFE compromised" oil still works great. Yes, it's CAFE, yes it's government mandated, yes it's primarily for FE and yes, it's primarily recommended N.America and Japan. A huge swath of consumers want better, no matter how miniscule, mpg. They are fine with thin oils and could really care less what's espoused on this forum since CAFE works for them now, and has since the late 70s.
I really dont care "who" is "fine" with "what". The poster asked a question, and I answered correctly and accurately. Thats the way this forum works. You and "the swath" are free to choose what ever oil you want. I don't give a flip.
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Ok, here is a humble questioning of the consensus here that a 5w30 is better for Texas heat, which is an interesting concept, in and of itself, because I'm wondering how 95 degrees in Texas might be different from the same temperature anywhere else, but I guess everything is bigger in Texas, but I digress...
I'm running Mobil 1 AP in my 2018 Jeep. Mobil 1 0w20 has the best flash and pour point performance I've found among their products that would be reasonable for my 3.6 engine. Looking at just the AP oils, which they market as their highest performing oils, I compared the 0w20 to 5w30. The pour point is no surprise, with the 20 weight coming in at -51 C, while the 5w30 comes in at -45. (Still impressive, while not as low.) Here is where it gets interesting and I submit it to the debate. The 0w20 has a higher flash point, at 242, compared to 232. It beats the 5w20, as well, which comes in at 236. (Again, all in Centigrade)
So, it may be more complex than this, but it looks like the 0w20 will handle heat better than the 5w30,as well as flowing at a significantly lower temp. I'm betting there is a higher performing base stock in the 0w20 that makes the difference here, so that's what is going in my engine, even if in the big heat of Texas.
Just for perspective, the advantage is a flash point of 467.6 degrees Fahrenheit for the 0w20 vs. 449.6 for the 5w30, which I take to mean that the 20 has just over 17 degrees of cushion when the 5w30 starts to burn up. Sounds like a big difference, to me.
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
Of course, I am a Mobil 1 customer, but I've not found any other brand that outperforms this ow20 on pour point, flash point, or the full spread. (Amsoil might, but I haven't looked.)
Thoughts?
Interesting, and you make some good points. I'm just curious, have you looked at AFE 0W30? Are you aware that Mobil 1 still doesn't meet the MS6395 Jeep/Chrysler spec your 2018 Jeep warranty calls for? With regard to the 20 grade handling heat better, Ford calls for 50 grade oils in engines that are tracked that normally call for a 20 grade oil in some applications. We've beaten that horse to death here too. I'd venture to say the 20 grade flash point is better than the 50 grade is too, but I haven't looked. Either way they have their reasons, and they had their reasons to bump some engines from an original 20 grade spec to a 30 grade. Many have said it was to reduce warranty claims.
Yep. Aware of all of it. I also know I've had 35 years experience using Mobil 1 oils without a single issue, and I've never seen a common automobile engine harmed by any API certified oil that was in or close to the manufacturer's specified weight, and where there was no contributing design flaw in the engine itself. I also know that political/business reasons are why Mobil 1 oils don't get MS6395 certification. I'm highly confident M1 AP 0w20 would easily exceed the demands of that spec. I'm also fully aware that many dealership put Mobil 1 in Jeeps with their premium oil changes. Mobil 1 has a warranty, anyway. I don't lose sleep over the possibility of failure of that oil.
Finally, I like questioning conventional wisdom. I find it interesting, as sometimes the horse beaten so severely turns out to be the wrong one. In the mean time, I fully expect this engine to do well with AP 0w20 and Fram Ultra filters on whatever OCI the OLM dictates, once I get through my initial break in changes.
I hear ya. I was thinking out loud, and replying to "thoughts?". I ran Mobil 1 in my 08 Liberty for a few years, and have used Mobil 1 probably longer than you
. I hate getting old. I had no fear of any engine related issues where the oil I used was going to be the cause. The same can be said for the PU 5W30 I'm currently running. Funny thing is even though the PU is a 30 grade it meets the MS6395 spec, but Chrysler would love to see and wants a 5W20 in the sump.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Ok, here is a humble questioning of the consensus here that a 5w30 is better for Texas heat, which is an interesting concept, in and of itself, because I'm wondering how 95 degrees in Texas might be different from the same temperature anywhere else, but I guess everything is bigger in Texas, but I digress...
I'm running Mobil 1 AP in my 2018 Jeep. Mobil 1 0w20 has the best flash and pour point performance I've found among their products that would be reasonable for my 3.6 engine. Looking at just the AP oils, which they market as their highest performing oils, I compared the 0w20 to 5w30. The pour point is no surprise, with the 20 weight coming in at -51 C, while the 5w30 comes in at -45. (Still impressive, while not as low.) Here is where it gets interesting and I submit it to the debate. The 0w20 has a higher flash point, at 242, compared to 232. It beats the 5w20, as well, which comes in at 236. (Again, all in Centigrade)
So, it may be more complex than this, but it looks like the 0w20 will handle heat better than the 5w30,as well as flowing at a significantly lower temp. I'm betting there is a higher performing base stock in the 0w20 that makes the difference here, so that's what is going in my engine, even if in the big heat of Texas.
Just for perspective, the advantage is a flash point of 467.6 degrees Fahrenheit for the 0w20 vs. 449.6 for the 5w30, which I take to mean that the 20 has just over 17 degrees of cushion when the 5w30 starts to burn up. Sounds like a big difference, to me.
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
Of course, I am a Mobil 1 customer, but I've not found any other brand that outperforms this ow20 on pour point, flash point, or the full spread. (Amsoil might, but I haven't looked.)
Thoughts?
Interesting, and you make some good points. I'm just curious, have you looked at AFE 0W30? Are you aware that Mobil 1 still doesn't meet the MS6395 Jeep/Chrysler spec your 2018 Jeep warranty calls for? With regard to the 20 grade handling heat better, Ford calls for 50 grade oils in engines that are tracked that normally call for a 20 grade oil in some applications. We've beaten that horse to death here too. I'd venture to say the 20 grade flash point is better than the 50 grade is too, but I haven't looked. Either way they have their reasons, and they had their reasons to bump some engines from an original 20 grade spec to a 30 grade. Many have said it was to reduce warranty claims.
Yep. Aware of all of it. I also know I've had 35 years experience using Mobil 1 oils without a single issue, and I've never seen a common automobile engine harmed by any API certified oil that was in or close to the manufacturer's specified weight, and where there was no contributing design flaw in the engine itself. I also know that political/business reasons are why Mobil 1 oils don't get MS6395 certification. I'm highly confident M1 AP 0w20 would easily exceed the demands of that spec. I'm also fully aware that many dealership put Mobil 1 in Jeeps with their premium oil changes. Mobil 1 has a warranty, anyway. I don't lose sleep over the possibility of failure of that oil.
Finally, I like questioning conventional wisdom. I find it interesting, as sometimes the horse beaten so severely turns out to be the wrong one. In the mean time, I fully expect this engine to do well with AP 0w20 and Fram Ultra filters on whatever OCI the OLM dictates, once I get through my initial break in changes.
I hear ya. I was thinking out loud, and replying to "thoughts?". I ran Mobil 1 in my 08 Liberty for a few years, and have used Mobil 1 probably longer than you
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Ok, here is a humble questioning of the consensus here that a 5w30 is better for Texas heat, which is an interesting concept, in and of itself, because I'm wondering how 95 degrees in Texas might be different from the same temperature anywhere else, but I guess everything is bigger in Texas, but I digress...
I'm running Mobil 1 AP in my 2018 Jeep. Mobil 1 0w20 has the best flash and pour point performance I've found among their products that would be reasonable for my 3.6 engine. Looking at just the AP oils, which they market as their highest performing oils, I compared the 0w20 to 5w30. The pour point is no surprise, with the 20 weight coming in at -51 C, while the 5w30 comes in at -45. (Still impressive, while not as low.) Here is where it gets interesting and I submit it to the debate. The 0w20 has a higher flash point, at 242, compared to 232. It beats the 5w20, as well, which comes in at 236. (Again, all in Centigrade)
So, it may be more complex than this, but it looks like the 0w20 will handle heat better than the 5w30,as well as flowing at a significantly lower temp. I'm betting there is a higher performing base stock in the 0w20 that makes the difference here, so that's what is going in my engine, even if in the big heat of Texas.
Just for perspective, the advantage is a flash point of 467.6 degrees Fahrenheit for the 0w20 vs. 449.6 for the 5w30, which I take to mean that the 20 has just over 17 degrees of cushion when the 5w30 starts to burn up. Sounds like a big difference, to me.
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
Of course, I am a Mobil 1 customer, but I've not found any other brand that outperforms this ow20 on pour point, flash point, or the full spread. (Amsoil might, but I haven't looked.)
Thoughts?
Interesting, and you make some good points. I'm just curious, have you looked at AFE 0W30? Are you aware that Mobil 1 still doesn't meet the MS6395 Jeep/Chrysler spec your 2018 Jeep warranty calls for? With regard to the 20 grade handling heat better, Ford calls for 50 grade oils in engines that are tracked that normally call for a 20 grade oil in some applications. We've beaten that horse to death here too. I'd venture to say the 20 grade flash point is better than the 50 grade is too, but I haven't looked. Either way they have their reasons, and they had their reasons to bump some engines from an original 20 grade spec to a 30 grade. Many have said it was to reduce warranty claims.
Yep. Aware of all of it. I also know I've had 35 years experience using Mobil 1 oils without a single issue, and I've never seen a common automobile engine harmed by any API certified oil that was in or close to the manufacturer's specified weight, and where there was no contributing design flaw in the engine itself. I also know that political/business reasons are why Mobil 1 oils don't get MS6395 certification. I'm highly confident M1 AP 0w20 would easily exceed the demands of that spec. I'm also fully aware that many dealership put Mobil 1 in Jeeps with their premium oil changes. Mobil 1 has a warranty, anyway. I don't lose sleep over the possibility of failure of that oil.
Finally, I like questioning conventional wisdom. I find it interesting, as sometimes the horse beaten so severely turns out to be the wrong one. In the mean time, I fully expect this engine to do well with AP 0w20 and Fram Ultra filters on whatever OCI the OLM dictates, once I get through my initial break in changes.
I hear ya. I was thinking out loud, and replying to "thoughts?". I ran Mobil 1 in my 08 Liberty for a few years, and have used Mobil 1 probably longer than you
. I hate getting old. I had no fear of any engine related issues where the oil I used was going to be the cause. The same can be said for the PU 5W30 I'm currently running. Funny thing is even though the PU is a 30 grade it meets the MS6395 spec, but Chrysler would love to see and wants a 5W20 in the sump.
Lol, yeah. I think so much about all this stuff, but I've got a buddy with a mid 90s Tahoe with a 350. He hasn't changed the oil in over a decade. He just keeps adding whatever cheap stuff he has laying around. It has 200k on it and it seems to run ok. I think we're all here just for the fun debate, discussion, and occasional argument. I enjoy the company of people smarter than me and even the occasional smart ***, too.
I wonder, though, why Exxon Mobil bothered to certify Mobil Super Synthetic with Chrysler, but not their flagship oils. Must be some market research data that led them to that.
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Ok, here is a humble questioning of the consensus here that a 5w30 is better for Texas heat, which is an interesting concept, in and of itself, because I'm wondering how 95 degrees in Texas might be different from the same temperature anywhere else, but I guess everything is bigger in Texas, but I digress...
I'm running Mobil 1 AP in my 2018 Jeep. Mobil 1 0w20 has the best flash and pour point performance I've found among their products that would be reasonable for my 3.6 engine. Looking at just the AP oils, which they market as their highest performing oils, I compared the 0w20 to 5w30. The pour point is no surprise, with the 20 weight coming in at -51 C, while the 5w30 comes in at -45. (Still impressive, while not as low.) Here is where it gets interesting and I submit it to the debate. The 0w20 has a higher flash point, at 242, compared to 232. It beats the 5w20, as well, which comes in at 236. (Again, all in Centigrade)
So, it may be more complex than this, but it looks like the 0w20 will handle heat better than the 5w30,as well as flowing at a significantly lower temp. I'm betting there is a higher performing base stock in the 0w20 that makes the difference here, so that's what is going in my engine, even if in the big heat of Texas.
Just for perspective, the advantage is a flash point of 467.6 degrees Fahrenheit for the 0w20 vs. 449.6 for the 5w30, which I take to mean that the 20 has just over 17 degrees of cushion when the 5w30 starts to burn up. Sounds like a big difference, to me.
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
Of course, I am a Mobil 1 customer, but I've not found any other brand that outperforms this ow20 on pour point, flash point, or the full spread. (Amsoil might, but I haven't looked.)
Thoughts?
Interesting, and you make some good points. I'm just curious, have you looked at AFE 0W30? Are you aware that Mobil 1 still doesn't meet the MS6395 Jeep/Chrysler spec your 2018 Jeep warranty calls for? With regard to the 20 grade handling heat better, Ford calls for 50 grade oils in engines that are tracked that normally call for a 20 grade oil in some applications. We've beaten that horse to death here too. I'd venture to say the 20 grade flash point is better than the 50 grade is too, but I haven't looked. Either way they have their reasons, and they had their reasons to bump some engines from an original 20 grade spec to a 30 grade. Many have said it was to reduce warranty claims.
Yep. Aware of all of it. I also know I've had 35 years experience using Mobil 1 oils without a single issue, and I've never seen a common automobile engine harmed by any API certified oil that was in or close to the manufacturer's specified weight, and where there was no contributing design flaw in the engine itself. I also know that political/business reasons are why Mobil 1 oils don't get MS6395 certification. I'm highly confident M1 AP 0w20 would easily exceed the demands of that spec. I'm also fully aware that many dealership put Mobil 1 in Jeeps with their premium oil changes. Mobil 1 has a warranty, anyway. I don't lose sleep over the possibility of failure of that oil.
Finally, I like questioning conventional wisdom. I find it interesting, as sometimes the horse beaten so severely turns out to be the wrong one. In the mean time, I fully expect this engine to do well with AP 0w20 and Fram Ultra filters on whatever OCI the OLM dictates, once I get through my initial break in changes.
I hear ya. I was thinking out loud, and replying to "thoughts?". I ran Mobil 1 in my 08 Liberty for a few years, and have used Mobil 1 probably longer than you
Lol, yeah. I think so much about all this stuff, but I've got a buddy with a mid 90s Tahoe with a 350. He hasn't changed the oil in over a decade. He just keeps adding whatever cheap stuff he has laying around. It has 200k on it and it seems to run ok. I think we're all here just for the fun debate, discussion, and occasional argument. I enjoy the company of people smarter than me and even the occasional smart ***, too.
I wonder, though, why Exxon Mobil bothered to certify Mobil Super Synthetic with Chrysler, but not their flagship oils. Must be some market research data that led them to that.
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I have a buddy that works as a tech at Ford and he said that turbocharger failures are alot more comon on models that require the 20 grade oil than the 30. So please dont tell me that a 20 grade oil will do just fine in a turbo charged and DI cars that see 100F temps with 10k intervals. No. It wont.
Originally Posted By: Serge
I have a buddy that works as a tech at Ford and he said that turbocharger failures are alot more comon on models that require the 20 grade oil than the 30. So please dont tell me that a 20 grade oil will do just fine in a turbo charged and DI cars that see 100F temps with 10k intervals. No. It wont.
What if one turbo engine design specs 20w, and sees more turbo failures than, say, the 3.5, which specs 30? How does he know it isn't something other than the oil? What if the 20w engine sells to a demographic that skimps maintenance more than the demographic buying the 30w engine? Probably only Ford really knows.
I'm pretty confident, though, that my 3.6 won't have a turbo issue due to oil, or any other reason. ;-)
I have a buddy that works as a tech at Ford and he said that turbocharger failures are alot more comon on models that require the 20 grade oil than the 30. So please dont tell me that a 20 grade oil will do just fine in a turbo charged and DI cars that see 100F temps with 10k intervals. No. It wont.
What if one turbo engine design specs 20w, and sees more turbo failures than, say, the 3.5, which specs 30? How does he know it isn't something other than the oil? What if the 20w engine sells to a demographic that skimps maintenance more than the demographic buying the 30w engine? Probably only Ford really knows.
I'm pretty confident, though, that my 3.6 won't have a turbo issue due to oil, or any other reason. ;-)
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Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
IndyFan said:Ok, here is a humble questioning of the consensus here that a 5w30 is better for Texas heat, which is an interesting concept, in and of itself, because I'm wondering how 95 degrees in Texas might be different from the same temperature anywhere else, but I guess everything is bigger in Texas, but I digress...
I'm running Mobil 1 AP in my 2018 Jeep. Mobil 1 0w20 has the best flash and pour point performance I've found among their products that would be reasonable for my 3.6 engine. Looking at just the AP oils, which they market as their highest performing oils, I compared the 0w20 to 5w30. The pour point is no surprise, with the 20 weight coming in at -51 C, while the 5w30 comes in at -45. (Still impressive, while not as low.) Here is where it gets interesting and I submit it to the debate. The 0w20 has a higher flash point, at 242, compared to 232. It beats the 5w20, as well, which comes in at 236. (Again, all in Centigrade)
So, it may be more complex than this, but it looks like the 0w20 will handle heat better than the 5w30,as well as flowing at a significantly lower temp. I'm betting there is a higher performing base stock in the 0w20 that makes the difference here, so that's what is going in my engine, even if in the big heat of Texas.
Just for perspective, the advantage is a flash point of 467.6 degrees Fahrenheit for the 0w20 vs. 449.6 for the 5w30, which I take to mean that the 20 has just over 17 degrees of cushion when the 5w30 starts to burn up. Sounds like a big difference, to me.
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
Of course, I am a Mobil 1 customer, but I've not found any other brand that outperforms this ow20 on pour point, flash point, or the full spread. (Amsoil might, but I haven't looked.)
Thoughts?
Interesting, and you make some good points. I'm just curious, have you looked at AFE 0W30? Are you aware that Mobil 1 still doesn't meet the MS6395 Jeep/Chrysler spec your 2018 Jeep warranty calls for? With regard to the 20 grade handling heat better, Ford calls for 50 grade oils in engines that are tracked that normally call for a 20 grade oil in some applications. We've beaten that horse to death here too. I'd venture to say the 20 grade flash point is better than the 50 grade is too, but I haven't looked. Either way they have their reasons, and they had their reasons to bump some engines from an original 20 grade spec to a 30 grade. Many have said it was to reduce warranty claims.
Yep. Aware of all of it. I also know I've had 35 years experience using Mobil 1 oils without a single issue, and I've never seen a common automobile engine harmed by any API certified oil that was in or close to the manufacturer's specified weight, and where there was no contributing design flaw in the engine itself. I also know that political/business reasons are why Mobil 1 oils don't get MS6395 certification. I'm highly confident M1 AP 0w20 would easily exceed the demands of that spec. I'm also fully aware that many dealership put Mobil 1 in Jeeps with their premium oil changes. Mobil 1 has a warranty, anyway. I don't lose sleep over the possibility of failure of that oil.
Finally, I like questioning conventional wisdom. I find it interesting, as sometimes the horse beaten so severely turns out to be the wrong one. In the mean time, I fully expect this engine to do well with AP 0w20 and Fram Ultra filters on whatever OCI the OLM dictates, once I get through my initial break in changes.
I hear ya. I was thinking out loud, and replying to "thoughts?". I ran Mobil 1 in my 08 Liberty for a few years, and have used Mobil 1 probably longer than you. I hate getting old. I had no fear of any engine related issues where the oil I used was going to be the cause. The same can be said for the PU 5W30 I'm currently running. Funny thing is even though the PU is a 30 grade it meets the MS6395 spec, but Chrysler would love to see and wants a 5W20 in the sump.
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Lol, yeah. I think so much about all this stuff, but I've got a buddy with a mid 90s Tahoe with a 350. He hasn't changed the oil in over a decade. He just keeps adding whatever cheap stuff he has laying around. It has 200k on it and it seems to run ok. I think we're all here just for the fun debate, discussion, and occasional argument. I enjoy the company of people smarter than me and even the occasional smart ***, too.
I wonder, though, why Exxon Mobil bothered to certify Mobil Super Synthetic with Chrysler, but not their flagship oils. Must be some market research data that led them to that.
I had a friend whose father did that with an old Buick in the 70's. They could have used it to fog for mosquitoes.
I'm not sure what XOM was doing with Super vs. their flagship Mobil 1 for the Chrysler spec. It makes me think about PU which was supposed to be Pennzoil's gem, they left a lot of us scratching our heads too.
wemay
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: nap
My hat off to people that practice what they preach.
But I've also used 5w30 and even 5w40. My point isn't that CAFE is the be-all-end-all, it's that multiple viscosity will work just fine.
*and 10w30 and 0w30.
I agree. I was never a believer in a one size fits all mentality when it comes to oil selection. I reminds me of a lubed for life mentality. Whose life?
+1
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: nap
My hat off to people that practice what they preach.
But I've also used 5w30 and even 5w40. My point isn't that CAFE is the be-all-end-all, it's that multiple viscosity will work just fine.
*and 10w30 and 0w30.
I agree. I was never a believer in a one size fits all mentality when it comes to oil selection. I reminds me of a lubed for life mentality. Whose life?
+1
Originally Posted By: cardoctor2
I'm in Central Texas, also - and this is my thinking on oil viscosity choices and weather.
Oil as works like marbles forced or splashed between moving parts to do 3 things: Keep opposing parts apart. Cool - and or or draw away heat and disperse it elsewhere. And remove oil that goes bad – as residues, acids, and sludge, by filtering, dilution, letting it settle elsewhere, and drain out and replacement.
For this discussion, lets talk viscosity: Refining separates the molecule size. Engineers test engine with different oils to decide the weight or molecule size.
Ummmm...no oil doesn't work that way.
I'm in Central Texas, also - and this is my thinking on oil viscosity choices and weather.
Oil as works like marbles forced or splashed between moving parts to do 3 things: Keep opposing parts apart. Cool - and or or draw away heat and disperse it elsewhere. And remove oil that goes bad – as residues, acids, and sludge, by filtering, dilution, letting it settle elsewhere, and drain out and replacement.
For this discussion, lets talk viscosity: Refining separates the molecule size. Engineers test engine with different oils to decide the weight or molecule size.
Ummmm...no oil doesn't work that way.
Originally Posted By: IndyFan
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
I would gather when comparing to a 5w-30, people would be looking at viscometrics, as opposed to things like flash point or pour point. When it comes to flash point, we also have to ensure testing methodologies are the same, but that's another matter.
Now, for out of warranty vehicles in the OP's signature where one is already running a synthetic, there's absolutely nothing wrong with carrying on with the OEM recommendations, jumping to an A5/B5 5w-30, or up to something A3/B4 or E6 for that matter. With respect to commentary about 10w-30 being the norm if there were no CAFE, 10w-30 in GF-5 is a CAFE grade.
One just gets a hair better fuel economy with a higher VI oil, which is one reason why dexos1, for instance, excludes 10w-30, not to mention the cold numbers required for the dexos1 spec, but that's another matter, too.
Just for comparison, Mobil 1 EP 10w30 has a flash point of 232 C, or 449.6 F. Seems to me, again, the 0w20 AP can handle the heat better.
I would gather when comparing to a 5w-30, people would be looking at viscometrics, as opposed to things like flash point or pour point. When it comes to flash point, we also have to ensure testing methodologies are the same, but that's another matter.
Now, for out of warranty vehicles in the OP's signature where one is already running a synthetic, there's absolutely nothing wrong with carrying on with the OEM recommendations, jumping to an A5/B5 5w-30, or up to something A3/B4 or E6 for that matter. With respect to commentary about 10w-30 being the norm if there were no CAFE, 10w-30 in GF-5 is a CAFE grade.
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Did you click the link ? Trav and Clinebarger best get up to speed on this magic potion business
Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
I'm currently located in central Texas and been trying to figure which oils are good for our vehicles (read signature) year round or if I should switch due to the seasons. Most of the topics just talk about using a particular oil year round due to their climate but I'm Texas it can be bipolar [censored]. Some winters it can get in the single digits (rarely) and easily triple digits in the summer. I'm currently deployed and plan on doing UOAs for our vehicles when I get back to get a better feel.
Castrol 0/40. More like a 5/35 weight. I run in it my 07 acura MDX and my '12 Honda Accord. The Acura is a 3,7L v6. Accord is a 2.4
Google shell AU, enter vehicle information, funny for my Accord it says shell Helix ultra 5/40. US 0/20.
I'm currently located in central Texas and been trying to figure which oils are good for our vehicles (read signature) year round or if I should switch due to the seasons. Most of the topics just talk about using a particular oil year round due to their climate but I'm Texas it can be bipolar [censored]. Some winters it can get in the single digits (rarely) and easily triple digits in the summer. I'm currently deployed and plan on doing UOAs for our vehicles when I get back to get a better feel.
Castrol 0/40. More like a 5/35 weight. I run in it my 07 acura MDX and my '12 Honda Accord. The Acura is a 3,7L v6. Accord is a 2.4
Google shell AU, enter vehicle information, funny for my Accord it says shell Helix ultra 5/40. US 0/20.
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