I have an order in for a Lexus CT200h hybrid and it calls for 0W-20 synthetic at 10,000 intervals. Just curious how many good options there are available....this will be for 90% city driving and a lot of short trips.
Thanks.
Thanks.
What are the best options for 0W-20 synthetic?
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My fist choice would be the Toyota 0w20. If not, Mobil1 Advanced Fuel Economy (AFE) 0w20.
Just stay with the Toyota 0W20
+1 on the Toyota 0w20. Designed for your car and it has some impressive numbers including vicosity index. I believe that someone here (I think it was Caterham) has done quite a bit of research on 0w20 synthetics.
Yes the Toyota Brand 0W-20 is the perfect choice for your application especially considering the city driving and short commutes.
A second choice would be the Idemitsu made 0W-20 that Mazda and Subaru use. This oil is a bit heavier to the Toyota oil but otherwise has a very similar formulation with a 200 VI.
A second choice would be the Idemitsu made 0W-20 that Mazda and Subaru use. This oil is a bit heavier to the Toyota oil but otherwise has a very similar formulation with a 200 VI.
I would use whatever that Lexus dealer is putting in it.
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
I would use whatever that Lexus dealer is putting in it.
And if the dealer used anything other than the Toyota 0W-20 I'd certainly complain.
I would use whatever that Lexus dealer is putting in it.
And if the dealer used anything other than the Toyota 0W-20 I'd certainly complain.
Fuel Economy/Value - Toyota 0w20
Long Drain - Amsoil 0w20
Overall - Mobil 1 AFE. Best of cold/hot temps.
Redline 0w20 for racing and high levels of ZDP.
According to one of the lubrication magazines I read recently, one of the XOM guys said the AFE line is on par with the EP for HT protection.
Long Drain - Amsoil 0w20
Overall - Mobil 1 AFE. Best of cold/hot temps.
Redline 0w20 for racing and high levels of ZDP.
According to one of the lubrication magazines I read recently, one of the XOM guys said the AFE line is on par with the EP for HT protection.
Buster you did read how the OP uses his Lexus hybrid?
That rules out RL and Amsoil as being way too heavy and M1 AFE while better is not ideal.
That rules out RL and Amsoil as being way too heavy and M1 AFE while better is not ideal.
Well for short trips wouldn't you want a slightly thicker oil to compensate for fuel dilution. If it's 90% short trip city driven I would assume the oil isn't burning off the inevitable fuel that blows by the rings at start up,until engine is at temp and pistons have expanded.
It's a question so please feel free to inform and not flame me please
It's a question so please feel free to inform and not flame me please
M1 0W-20 is 25% heavier at room temperature and 35% heavier at 32F vs the Toyota 0W-20. And the Toyota oil has a higher concentration of AW additives.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Well for short trips wouldn't you want a slightly thicker oil to compensate for fuel dilution. If it's 90% short trip city driven I would assume the oil isn't burning off the inevitable fuel that blows by the rings at start up,until engine is at temp and pistons have expanded.
It's a question so please feel free to inform and not flame me please
The Toyota 0W-20 was originally designed as an oil optimized for hybrid applications. I think Toyota knows what they're doing.
Well for short trips wouldn't you want a slightly thicker oil to compensate for fuel dilution. If it's 90% short trip city driven I would assume the oil isn't burning off the inevitable fuel that blows by the rings at start up,until engine is at temp and pistons have expanded.
It's a question so please feel free to inform and not flame me please
The Toyota 0W-20 was originally designed as an oil optimized for hybrid applications. I think Toyota knows what they're doing.
The Toyota 0w20 and Idemitsu may be a better choice for hybrids with their very high VI and low viscosity. If I had a hybrid, I'd mostly likely use the Toyota 0w20. It's hard to really compare these oils because they are somewhat optimized.
They must have a lot of confidence in it. I'm assuming they use a lot more VM's, which can be good and bad.
They must have a lot of confidence in it. I'm assuming they use a lot more VM's, which can be good and bad.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
M1 0W-20 is 25% heavier at room temperature and 35% heavier at 32F vs the Toyota 0W-20. And the Toyota oil has a higher concentration of AW additives.
But isn't that a good thing as it will protect in higher air temps(the 25-35% vis)? Also doesn't M1 0-20 flow better at much colder temps than the Toyota 0-20? Seems to me that makes the M1 a better all round 20wt. As for the AW additives,can you be sure of that by looking at the info that is made public? PDS sheets don't really tell the whole story the way an oil is made,does it?
M1 0W-20 is 25% heavier at room temperature and 35% heavier at 32F vs the Toyota 0W-20. And the Toyota oil has a higher concentration of AW additives.
But isn't that a good thing as it will protect in higher air temps(the 25-35% vis)? Also doesn't M1 0-20 flow better at much colder temps than the Toyota 0-20? Seems to me that makes the M1 a better all round 20wt. As for the AW additives,can you be sure of that by looking at the info that is made public? PDS sheets don't really tell the whole story the way an oil is made,does it?
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Well for short trips wouldn't you want a slightly thicker oil to compensate for fuel dilution. If it's 90% short trip city driven I would assume the oil isn't burning off the inevitable fuel that blows by the rings at start up,until engine is at temp and pistons have expanded.
It's a question so please feel free to inform and not flame me please
No flames are coming from me here. I think your thought processes are quite logical.
Fuel dilution is certainly a factor in short trips, and a thicker oil does help prevent blow-by. Traditionally, you chose a thinner oil for short trips, since the engine won't get too hot and cool thin oil will stay thick. A thicker oil COULD be thinned down by fuel dilution to just the right level, but a thin oil that shears very little might be even better. It's tricky balancing the oil viscosity, formula, and interval for minimal wear.
Well for short trips wouldn't you want a slightly thicker oil to compensate for fuel dilution. If it's 90% short trip city driven I would assume the oil isn't burning off the inevitable fuel that blows by the rings at start up,until engine is at temp and pistons have expanded.
It's a question so please feel free to inform and not flame me please
No flames are coming from me here. I think your thought processes are quite logical.
Fuel dilution is certainly a factor in short trips, and a thicker oil does help prevent blow-by. Traditionally, you chose a thinner oil for short trips, since the engine won't get too hot and cool thin oil will stay thick. A thicker oil COULD be thinned down by fuel dilution to just the right level, but a thin oil that shears very little might be even better. It's tricky balancing the oil viscosity, formula, and interval for minimal wear.
In MY OPINION:
1.
for best wear protection a 0w20 confirming to acea a3/b4 ( rare oil, but for example this one: http://www.kroon-oil.com/en/products/cat...-specificaties/
or
2.
For optimal fuel economy fuchs gt1 0w20 ( it made the acea b4 engine test, so should also provide good protection.)
1.
for best wear protection a 0w20 confirming to acea a3/b4 ( rare oil, but for example this one: http://www.kroon-oil.com/en/products/cat...-specificaties/
or
2.
For optimal fuel economy fuchs gt1 0w20 ( it made the acea b4 engine test, so should also provide good protection.)
REDLINE!!!
Its a light 30.
Otherwise, its a "Tie:"
1. AMSOIL 0W-20 - this oil looks GREEAT on paper!
2. Honda/Idemitsu 0W_20.
Its a light 30.
Otherwise, its a "Tie:"
1. AMSOIL 0W-20 - this oil looks GREEAT on paper!
2. Honda/Idemitsu 0W_20.
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