My E46 323i using non-synthetic: sludge fest 2010!

[oliverr871]

So, today I did the valve cover gaskets on my 2000 323i. I had changed the oil using Castrol 0w30 European Formula and when I took out the filter, it had sludge remnants so I knew it was possible that there was sludge in the head.

There were no records of using synthetic oil before me, but the car is very quiet and runs great. I get 32 mpg, and have no issues with it. Got it for a good price too.

So, as I took off the valve cover, I was not surprised that there was a great amount of sludge. The filter does a good job at collecting it, so I'm not worried about it too much. The point is, how do I get rid of most of the sludge that's in there? I've heard of lots of ways, but which one would be most effective? Diesel, ATF, Auto-RX? Also, I know I should change the filter more frequently as well. Well, here are the pics. I know I can't get most of it out unless I took apart the engine and really cleaned everything. The car has 136k.

With this in mind, does sludge really affect anything? The cams don't have any scarring or wear, and neither do the valves. I know it can clog the oil pickup and passages possibly, but other than that...it should be alright.

Please keep in mind, that I had bought the car potentially knowing it had sludge in it, and that I myself, know what oils are best for vehicles, so please keep the flaming to a minimum and just let me know some tips on how to remove most of it. Thanks!

 

[tig1]

Start scraping the top end. After that pull the oil pan and flush with a good solvent from the top down. After it's back together I would go with M1 10-40HM.

 

[finalyzd]

I guess you really have to use a synthetic in a vehicle that requires it. Especially since most mercedes benz owners extend there oci. I wonder if conventional was changed at short intervals. But yea scrap as much as u can as tig said then do a couple of short OCI. That's nasty

 

[Eddie]

Do it slow and easy using short 3K mile oil changes with a hi detergent oil. It is bad enough that to use a more aggressive cleaning like MMO or Auto-RX could lead to more problems if too much stuff comes loose at at once. JMO. Other may have suggestions on what might be a good oil for cleaning-PYB? Ed

 

[SuperDave456]

Just don't do long OCI's and you should be ok.
I'd say 3000 miles max at first. You want the oil to clean that stuff gradually.
I'd go back to Dino as you wont see any of the benefits from Synthetic without the longer OCI's.

After 3-4 3,000 mile changes I'd put in 1 pint of MMO in there for the last 500 miles of the next oil change.

Time is on your side if it is running great. Just don't over extend your OCI's as your filter will be filling up regularly.
Some people can squeeze out another 100 or 200 thousand after they get a used car like that. Just be careful and slow.

 

[chubbs1]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Start scraping the top end. After that pull the oil pan and flush with a good solvent from the top down. After it's back together I would go with M1 10-40HM.

++1 on that. Get to the places you can and where it is too difficult let the oil and filter do the work. I would use Pennz Ultra though, has a higher boron count. Good Luck.

Bubba Chubbs

 

[oliverr871]

Thanks guys.

Don't synthetics have some limited detergent in it to keep the engine clean? I could just keep using some cheap synthetic and replace it using shorter oil change intervals.

Yea, I don't want it to be dislodged instantly because that could be problematic. I know it will take a while, but as long as the filter eventually doesn't show any more materials, then it'll be good.

I am on German Castrol right now, I think I will replace the oil filter element 3 more times and add MMO before before a 10k oil change interval. Or no?

Also, why do you recommend Mobil1 10w40?

The car does not use up any oil either, and no "ticking" noises in the valve.

 

[aquariuscsm]

That`s why I don`t believe in extended oci`s,especially in a performance vehicle. Oil is cheap,engines aren`t.

 

[tomcat27]

what a crime to "ruin" a nice engine like that.

 

[chubbs1]

If you can affor GC I might try Red line oil It has the esters which like to clean, it'll get you 10K and use a decent filter Puro/wix/whatever is on sale. And change them out 3 or 4 times during that interval.

 

[chubbs1]

Originally Posted By: tomcat27
what a crime to "ruin" a nice engine like that.

What do you mean ruined?? It is ugly, but God loves ugly engines too.

 

[oliverr871]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
That`s why I don`t believe in extended oci`s,especially in a performance vehicle. Oil is cheap,engines aren`t.


Well, no, if you use the correct oil (BMW Synthetic 5w30, German Castrol) and change it out with 10k-12k, even at 130k, the engine can still look clean, and this is a BMW V8:

 

[bimmerdriver]

The danger of this much sludge is that if too much of it dislodges while the engine is running, it will clog the oil filter and starve the engine of oil. What you should do next depends on whether you like the vehicle and intend to keep it. If you intend to keep it, you should pull the motor and rebuild it. As those engines normally last a long time, you may get away with minimal part replacement (e.g., gaskets). If you don't want to spend that sort of money, then clean the top end and remove the oil pan and clean the bottom end. When you start the engine the first time, only run it for a few minutes and change the oil and filter. Opening up the engine as you have done will dislodge a lot of sludge which will clog the oil filter. I really discourage going the cheap route unless your car is not in good shape to start.

 

[oliverr871]

lol, well using Auto-RX with German Castrol is out the windows, apparently it's not compatible says the website compatibility chart

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
Do it slow and easy using short 3K mile oil changes with a hi detergent oil. It is bad enough that to use a more aggressive cleaning like MMO or Auto-RX could lead to more problems if too much stuff comes loose at at once. JMO. Other may have suggestions on what might be a good oil for cleaning-PYB? Ed


That's a pretty basic, high quality suggestion. Try an HDEO, even. Just keep in mind it's not going to be a quick process. If you want it done quick, do it manually.

Of course, the previous owner obviously changed ever 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever came first.

 

[oliverr871]

Yea, I know its not going to be quick and it will take time. I do intend to keep the car for as long as I can though.

What's HDEO?

 

[Pablo]

For a BITOGer to confuse extended OCI's with lack of maintenance and poor oil choice is the most scariest thing in this thread....and THAT is a saying SOMETHING after seeing those photos.

I would agree with some manual....scooping. Get out every bit you can. Rinse it down with some MMO and some brushing and rinse it down again - all with an open drain plug and pan underneath. Fill it up with some inexpensive oil and 20% MMO. (new filter of course). Run this 100 miles or so, drain and repeat. In the meantime order a couple bottles of Amsoil flush:

Amsoil Flush link

I would do two treatments back to back with fresh oil and new filter by following instructions.

All this should get you on the road to recovery. Get a clean running synthetic, like M1, and change the oil every 2K-4K.

Yes indeed - conventional oil has caught up with synthetic......not.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: oliverr871
Yea, I know its not going to be quick and it will take time. I do intend to keep the car for as long as I can though.

What's HDEO?


Sorry, heavy duty engine oil, such as Delo 400, Rotella, Delvac 1300, that sort of thing.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
For a BITOGer to confuse extended OCI's with lack of maintenance and poor oil choice is the most scariest thing in this thread....and THAT is a saying SOMETHING after seeing those photos.

I would agree with some manual....scooping. Get out every bit you can. Rinse it down with some MMO and some brushing and rinse it down again - all with an open drain plug and pan underneath. Fill it up with some inexpensive oil and 20% MMO. (new filter of course). Run this 100 miles or so, drain and repeat. In the meantime order a couple bottles of Amsoil flush:

Amsoil Flush link

I would do two treatments back to back with fresh oil and new filter by following instructions.

All this should get you on the road to recovery. Get a clean running synthetic, like M1, and change the oil every 2K-4K.

Yes indeed - conventional oil has caught up with synthetic......not.



^^THIS.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
For a BITOGer to confuse extended OCI's with lack of maintenance and poor oil choice is the most scariest thing in this thread....and THAT is a saying SOMETHING after seeing those photos.


Quite true, but I've seen too many people think oil is a lifetime fluid. I have nothing against extended drains, and those that employ them, particularly with a product like Amsoil, are doing quite fine. I'd buy a used vehicle that ran exclusively on well reasoned, extended OCIs on Amsoil without a second thought.

It's the guys who buy non-speced oil and run it won't show on the dipstick (or use the oil pressure gauge as an oil fill gauge) who worry me. Or, they see that their manual says a 15,000 mile OCI, but don't read what oil should actually be used, as appears to be what happened here.