Oil additive to clean out sludge and deposits

[victorforge]

Hello,
I have a '74 BMW R60/6 that's rather low mileage but sat for 20 years. After receiving it, I changed the oil and ran it some. I then sent the oil in for analysis at the next change and dropped the oil pan after I found sludge in a valve cover. I found more sludge in the other valve cover after another oil change. (It's a boxer engine so 2 opposing valve covers) After research I have found a few different options.
1. Use an engine flush
2. Use diesel oil (Ie Shell Rotella T6)
3. Add Rislone or Seafoam to oil before oil change
4. Use Valvoline Premium blue restore

I'm leaning towards option 2 and 3. I would basically switch to Shell Rotella T6 at the next oil change. Run it for 100 to 200 miles or so. Then add seafoam, run it for a few miles, then change it. I attached my last oil analysis. Older test is from the original oil sitting inside the engine from when I got it.

 

[wpod]

Run an oil that has a high % of ester in the base oil mix. HPL has some products that work.

 

[Brian123]

Do you have some Pics 2 show us?

 

[buster]

74 is old. You may run into issues with some products. Maybe try the new Valvoline Restore & Protect or HPL. Good luck.

 

[victorforge]

yes

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

Or, just change the oil and drive it normally and not worry about it.

 

[reemoeMO]

HPL's Engine Cleaner is quite safe to give a try. Prior to that, two or three short OCIs (1,000 to 2,000 miles) with a high-mileage oil could be beneficial, as well. Have you replaced the PCV valve recently (cheap part to swap out), as it could be clogged?

 

[hrv]

Hello,
I have a '74 BMW R60/6 that's rather low mileage but sat for 20 years. After receiving it, I changed the oil and ran it some. I then sent the oil in for analysis at the next change and dropped the oil pan after I found sludge in a valve cover. I found more sludge in the other valve cover after another oil change. (It's a boxer engine so 2 opposing valve covers) After research I have found a few different options.
1. Use an engine flush
2. Use diesel oil (Ie Shell Rotella T6)
3. Add Rislone or Seafoam to oil before oil change
4. Use Valvoline Premium blue restore

I'm leaning towards option 2 and 3. I would basically switch to Shell Rotella T6 at the next oil change. Run it for 100 to 200 miles or so. Then add seafoam, run it for a few miles, then change it. I attached my last oil analysis. Older test is from the original oil sitting inside the engine from when I got it.

Thats the bike I had new in 1974...sold it in 1981... wish I still had it....

 

[sloinker]

High amounts of class lV or V may cause abundant oil leaks. I would look for something with class I or II and just put it on a short OCI after hand cleaning all the places you can get to.

 

[victorforge]

Thats the bike I had new in 1974...sold it in 1981... wish I still had it....

My grandfather bought it new in 1974. He passed in 2020. 880 miles on it when I took it out of his garage.

 

[demarpaint]

I'd give Rislone a shot with your favorite oil, and drive it nice and easy for about a thousand miles. If you go the Rislone route try two 1,000 mile runs, and take it from there.

 

[hrv]

My grandfather bought it new in 1974. He passed in 2020. 880 miles on it when I took it out of his garage. View attachment 197906

Mine looked just like that but black with a wixom fork mounted fairing...I remember it needed leaded premium fuel...How do you handle that now??? It was a great bike good luck with it....Can you still get points for it or can you get a electronic ignition for it???

 

[victorforge]

Mine looked just like that but black with a wixom fork mounted fairing...I remember it needed leaded premium fuel...How do you handle that now??? It was a great bike good luck with it....Can you still get points for it or can you get a electronic ignition for it???

I've been told since it's the lower displacement model it's not much of a problem. I always use 93 octane. I've been considering adding an additional octane booster or finding race fuel. I could also get a 100LL from the airport but I don't drive it enough to worry about it.

 

[dnewton3]

My grandfather bought it new in 1974. He passed in 2020. 880 miles on it when I took it out of his garage. View attachment 197906

That thing is a time capsule! Simply beautiful piece of history.
Ride it and enjoy it!

As others have said, I'd stay away from group IV and V lubes. And avoid the harsh flush chemicals like seafoam, etc. What you want is slow, controlled, methodical cleaning to occur.

Consider HPL. They make some excellent engine cleaner; many here have had success with it, as it's ester based. Or, even maybe use their "normal" PCEO synthetic; it's a high-purity group III with esters and ANs. And as the BMW does not have an internal wet clutch to worry about, the whole "energy conserving oil" vs. clutch issue is moot.

 

[hrv]

I've been told since it's the lower displacement model it's not much of a problem. I always use 93 octane. I've been considering adding an additional octane booster or finding race fuel. I could also get a 100LL from the airport but I don't drive it enough to worry about it.

9.2.to 1...Sometimes mine would knock a little under load so I would add some octane boost to the gas...it helped...

 

[victorforge]

skip to 6:30 if you really want to hear it.
I'll probably start adding an octane booster to it.

 

[hrv]

skip to 6:30 if you really want to hear it.
I'll probably start adding an octane booster to it.

Nice you are getting me mad now....I want my old bike back....

 

[victorforge]

That thing is a time capsule! Simply beautiful piece of history.
Ride it and enjoy it!

As others have said, I'd stay away from group IV and V lubes. And avoid the harsh flush chemicals like seafoam, etc. What you want is slow, controlled, methodical cleaning to occur.

Consider HPL. They make some excellent engine cleaner; many here have had success with it, as it's ester based. Or, even maybe use their "normal" PCEO synthetic; it's a high-purity group III with esters and ANs. And as the BMW does not have an internal wet clutch to worry about, the whole "energy conserving oil" vs. clutch issue is moot.

If a slow clean is preferred, would mixing say a quart of HPL with my usual conventional oil of choice be better?

 

[TomYoung]

I would manually clean what you can, and do a quick oil change (50 miles) with plenty of cleaner. Liqui Moly would be my first choice. I suspect most of the problem is oil sitting in the sump, stagnant, degrading and getting exposed to moisture, further degrading the oil. The good news is that there is really no evidence of mechanical problems, so using high-quality, modern oils as a "slow" clean should be fine. With regard to one person's post on "new" oils possibly being a "problem," I suspect that you are pretty safe, although a zinc additive might be appropriate.

 

[JavierH19]

I don't believe it needs any additives since what's at the bottom of the pan is probably all of it and the top end is probably fine. You can just use any 0/5w-40 euro or hdeo.