Lead Substitute
Prevents valve seat damage in engines designed for leaded gasoline
Oil additive to clean out sludge and deposits
- Thread starter victorforge
- Start date
It wouldn't be a bad idea to check the valve clearances to get some baseline measurements, then check them again in 1-2k miles to see how quickly the valve seats are wearing. It's probably recommended to do the first check at ~1k miles on a bike of this vintage anyway. If the clearances seem to be tightening up quickly, maybe increase the dose of leaded fuel.
That was with only 880 miles total on the bike?
If so, the oil must have degraded from just sitting for so long, as oil just doesn't do that after 880 miles of use.
Yes. Only 880 miles in total on the bike. When I changed the oil after it sat for about 20 years. The oil was quite clean. I sent it out for analysis anyway. That 20 year stretch was obviously not the first time it sat for a while. I need to go through all the service records again.That was with only 880 miles total on the bike?
It might have been periodically started and idled, but not run long enough to get the engine up to temperature, so it might have been stored with a lot of fuel, water, and NOx sitting in the oil. Wear metals from break-in could help form sludge precursors as well. Old API SD/SE oils from the 70's also had pretty poor sludge resistance.That was with only 880 miles total on the bike?
Despite the oil filter looking like that, Blackstone report looks pretty good. That Lucas oil ZDDP additive really has some Zinc and Phosphorus in it thats for sure. It also raised the TBN. Should I continue to use it?
Skipped to 6.22 and thought ,that looks like Pa ! then I started to recognize houses and views !
This bike ? clean sludge manually and use best quality oil at recc. 300 mile interval . Please ,Please DO NOT USE CLEANERS !
I certainly wouldn't use as much as you have been. Too much ZDDP will compete with other additives, increasing friction and reducing detergency. The first oil you used was probably too low in ZDDP, but an oil with 1100-1200 ppm phosphorus should be fine with no additive.
If this were my bike, I would run a few short oci's. The settle on a oil I feel that will eventually flush out any of the remaining gunk. To do that ,you'll need to get it up to operating temp, and take it for a few long rides to move the cleaner around. Then just as a gauge to see if it's working, change the oil filter every couple hundred miles. If the oil has say 500 miles on it in a normal engine, the filter should look pretty clean. Then keep doing it until it looks alot better then the photo's you have posted. I wouldn't overdose the engine with any cleaner, but the key is to always get it up to operating temp.,,
It appears that this engine is still breaking in with only 1300 miles. Iron and copper levels are up however not to a degree that would indicate an internal problem. Current lead level is less than half of the samples from 8/1 and 11/28. The old oil was dark and appeared to have maybe some thin sludge in it however with 875 miles on the oil I doubt that the oil was in use long enough to sludge up. I have seen much worse. If the first engine oil change didn't drop blobs of sludge then I say that all is well. Run a quality dino or semi syn 20/50 and pay attention to the color of the oil. Change the oil and filter when it gets dark. In 295 miles you have seen an improvement in the oil analysis and it will continue to get better. 1 or 2 more oil changes will get you to where you want to be. Use lead substitute and hold off on oil additives for now, let the engine break in. Them Beemers are tough and durable. The Boxer engine performed well in WW2 as they held up to dusty desert conditions and going through the deep mud all over Europe. Enjoy that bike and keep us informed!!
MMO gas and oil
That first oil analysis did not have 875 miles on it. No clue how many miles were on that oil. Odometer was at 875 miles.
wow, now that was alot to consume, imho
A few oil changes 3-500 miles should clean it up
Heat cycles and a quality oil will do a lot of good.
Heat cycles and a quality oil will do a lot of good.
With a dry clutch I don't see any harm in using something to help clean it out and maybe Seafoam, MMO, or even the HPL but I wouldn't use any of those 5 min type flushes. If you did put a cleaner in there just let it idle for a bit and then drain, I certainly wouldn't go for a ride with it still in there. Depending how sludged up it really is you could keep changing the oil after a few hundered miles and look at the filter then go from there. I wouldn't use the LM for the quick changes, I'd goto Walmart and they should have 20w50 motorcycle oil such as Supertech, Valvoline either conventional or synthetic and they have Castrol Actevo which is a blend.
I'm running Valvoline synthetic 10w40 in my Ninja 650 and it's been great.
I'm running Valvoline synthetic 10w40 in my Ninja 650 and it's been great.
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