So I have some bulk oil in my engine after I did the front cover gasket and want to do a flush and get Rotella back in there. I have heard people recommend B12 Chemtool but I cannot find the oil flush product on the shelves around here (only the gas additive). Advanced has Gunk, they all have Seafoam. That is about it unless I am missing something. Any other suggestions?
Which readily available engine flush to use?
- Thread starter lipadj46
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I do use MMO regularly. The bulk oil has been in for a few days. It is a 5w30 bulk oil that my mechanic was trying to get rid of so he gave me 6 quarts. You can see my post in the PCMO forum for what my oil pan looks like (lots of varnish). I want to do a solvent flush and then go back to my regular oil. I will probably try the Gunk flush.
If I was ever going to use an engine flush, it would be the Amsoil product.
But what exactly makes you think you need to flush your engine? Is there evidence that the bulk oil dirtied up your engine? If not, just go back to Rotella and call it a day.
But what exactly makes you think you need to flush your engine? Is there evidence that the bulk oil dirtied up your engine? If not, just go back to Rotella and call it a day.
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
I do use MMO regularly. The bulk oil has been in for a few days. It is a 5w30 bulk oil that my mechanic was trying to get rid of so he gave me 6 quarts. You can see my post in the PCMO forum for what my oil pan looks like (lots of varnish). I want to do a solvent flush and then go back to my regular oil. I will probably try the Gunk flush.
If you have been using MMO on a regular basis I don't think you have anything to worry about. How exactly are you using the MMO? If you run a qt with your favorite oil for a full OCI I doubt you need to flush your engine. JMO
I do use MMO regularly. The bulk oil has been in for a few days. It is a 5w30 bulk oil that my mechanic was trying to get rid of so he gave me 6 quarts. You can see my post in the PCMO forum for what my oil pan looks like (lots of varnish). I want to do a solvent flush and then go back to my regular oil. I will probably try the Gunk flush.
If you have been using MMO on a regular basis I don't think you have anything to worry about. How exactly are you using the MMO? If you run a qt with your favorite oil for a full OCI I doubt you need to flush your engine. JMO
I've seen the top end, bottom end, front end of my engine. Most recently the bottom end.
I have been using mmo for my last 2 OCI's (1 quart for the whole OCI's) and it still needs some cleaning. Top end is clean, bottom end is still a bit dirty.
I have been using mmo for my last 2 OCI's (1 quart for the whole OCI's) and it still needs some cleaning. Top end is clean, bottom end is still a bit dirty.
Pick up two pints of B12 Chemtool if you are feeling sporty. Use one pint this time and run it for 30 minutes inthe engine at 1500RPMs minimum. Next oil change repeat. I would only add two pints of B12 at one time if it was a sludge beast on the verge of reduced flow to the pickup due to heavy varnish or sludge. B12 is some strong stuff not that wimpy minty smeeling stuff youhave tried already and gotten no results from MMO that is.
I picked up a quart of Gunk Engine Flush as no place has the B12 flush only the fuel cleaner.
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
I've seen the top end, bottom end, front end of my engine. Most recently the bottom end.
I have been using mmo for my last 2 OCI's (1 quart for the whole OCI's) and it still needs some cleaning. Top end is clean, bottom end is still a bit dirty.
There must have been a lot of sludge, I'd say you're on the right track, and another OCI with MMO should get it clean, or a quick flush at this point. Keep in mind some of the slow cleaners would take up to 4 OCI's to clean up a really dirty engine, and even then there are no guarantees.
Either way another MMO treatment or a fast flush, my bet is the engine will be nice and clean.
I've seen the top end, bottom end, front end of my engine. Most recently the bottom end.
I have been using mmo for my last 2 OCI's (1 quart for the whole OCI's) and it still needs some cleaning. Top end is clean, bottom end is still a bit dirty.
There must have been a lot of sludge, I'd say you're on the right track, and another OCI with MMO should get it clean, or a quick flush at this point. Keep in mind some of the slow cleaners would take up to 4 OCI's to clean up a really dirty engine, and even then there are no guarantees.
Either way another MMO treatment or a fast flush, my bet is the engine will be nice and clean.
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
I picked up a quart of Gunk Engine Flush as no place has the B12 flush only the fuel cleaner.
I looked at your pics in the other thread, I do not think that Gunk Motor Flush will do anything. I would either try Amsoil Engine Flush or the B-12.
I am just wondering if the oil that has had MMO in it looked dark when you did your oil changes. I am on my 3rd OCI with MMO in my El Camino, the 1st oil change had the oil looking very dark, the 2nd oil change with MMO was not as dark. Usually the oil started getting dark on the dipstick after about 700 miles on both OCI's with MMO.
I am on my 3rd OCI with MMO in the engine, I am 1500 miles into this OCI and the oil still looks clean, it has a nice bright gold color. It took 2 OCI's with MMO to clean up the small amount of crud inside my cylinder heads, I could scrape the cylinder head area in the valvetrain with a srewdriver and get some black junk out. Now I cannot scrape anything out, some things take time and many miles.
If you cannot get your hands on B-12 you maight want to PM Gary Allan or Pablo about getting some Amsoil Engine Flush, again I just do not see Gunk Motor Flush doing anything.
I picked up a quart of Gunk Engine Flush as no place has the B12 flush only the fuel cleaner.
I looked at your pics in the other thread, I do not think that Gunk Motor Flush will do anything. I would either try Amsoil Engine Flush or the B-12.
I am just wondering if the oil that has had MMO in it looked dark when you did your oil changes. I am on my 3rd OCI with MMO in my El Camino, the 1st oil change had the oil looking very dark, the 2nd oil change with MMO was not as dark. Usually the oil started getting dark on the dipstick after about 700 miles on both OCI's with MMO.
I am on my 3rd OCI with MMO in the engine, I am 1500 miles into this OCI and the oil still looks clean, it has a nice bright gold color. It took 2 OCI's with MMO to clean up the small amount of crud inside my cylinder heads, I could scrape the cylinder head area in the valvetrain with a srewdriver and get some black junk out. Now I cannot scrape anything out, some things take time and many miles.
If you cannot get your hands on B-12 you maight want to PM Gary Allan or Pablo about getting some Amsoil Engine Flush, again I just do not see Gunk Motor Flush doing anything.
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
I picked up a quart of Gunk Engine Flush as no place has the B12 flush only the fuel cleaner.
I'd use Seafoam instead of Gunk, more positive comments on various forums I visit for Seafoam.
I haven't used it but plan on as soon as it comes in, even though I believe Auto-RX is the best after reading all the comments. It's a more gentle slow flush over 3k miles which is better than possible loosening up chunks of sludge that block oil passages. Gotta order it though, can't pick it up locally.
I picked up a quart of Gunk Engine Flush as no place has the B12 flush only the fuel cleaner.
I'd use Seafoam instead of Gunk, more positive comments on various forums I visit for Seafoam.
I haven't used it but plan on as soon as it comes in, even though I believe Auto-RX is the best after reading all the comments. It's a more gentle slow flush over 3k miles which is better than possible loosening up chunks of sludge that block oil passages. Gotta order it though, can't pick it up locally.
Originally Posted By: rastoma
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
I picked up a quart of Gunk Engine Flush as no place has the B12 flush only the fuel cleaner.
I'd use Seafoam instead of Gunk, more positive comments on various forums I visit for Seafoam.
I haven't used it but plan on as soon as it comes in, even though I believe Auto-RX is the best after reading all the comments. It's a more gentle slow flush over 3k miles which is better than possible loosening up chunks of sludge that block oil passages. Gotta order it though, can't pick it up locally.
I believe he stated in his thread in the PCMO Section that he realizes arx has problems removing varnish on aluminum.
If he wants a fast clean then his choices are coming down to B-12 or Seafoam.
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
I picked up a quart of Gunk Engine Flush as no place has the B12 flush only the fuel cleaner.
I'd use Seafoam instead of Gunk, more positive comments on various forums I visit for Seafoam.
I haven't used it but plan on as soon as it comes in, even though I believe Auto-RX is the best after reading all the comments. It's a more gentle slow flush over 3k miles which is better than possible loosening up chunks of sludge that block oil passages. Gotta order it though, can't pick it up locally.
I believe he stated in his thread in the PCMO Section that he realizes arx has problems removing varnish on aluminum.
If he wants a fast clean then his choices are coming down to B-12 or Seafoam.
I have a couple cans of seafoam in the stash. I will use that.
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Originally Posted By: ADFD1
There must have been a lot of sludge
No sludge in the top or bottom end just a lot of dark varnish.
Originally Posted By: c3po
I am just wondering if the oil that has had MMO in it looked dark when you did your oil changes.
It came out really dark, darkest I have seen since my truck overheated.
There must have been a lot of sludge
No sludge in the top or bottom end just a lot of dark varnish.
Originally Posted By: c3po
I am just wondering if the oil that has had MMO in it looked dark when you did your oil changes.
It came out really dark, darkest I have seen since my truck overheated.
Read up on varnish removal, it seems that it is one of the tougher issues to remove. Some call it cosmetic, and harmless, and it can be a PIA to remove. My thoughts are if the top end of the engine is cleaned up of varnish you are well on the way to a clean engine. I'd stick with the MMO, especially in the winter where you will also see the added benefits of easier cold starting.
Now as c3po said if you really want a fast clean, you can switch over to one of the fast clean flushes. My bet is the MMO has made the job a lot easier for those products. I don't like fast flush products, but that is more of a personal thing than anything else. Good luck!
Now as c3po said if you really want a fast clean, you can switch over to one of the fast clean flushes. My bet is the MMO has made the job a lot easier for those products. I don't like fast flush products, but that is more of a personal thing than anything else. Good luck!
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
I have a couple cans of seafoam in the stash. I will use that.
I feel you are on the right track here, it seems that MMO has darkened your oil by your comments that it came out dark when you changed your oil.
I have not used Seafoam but I would encourage you to find out how much you need to use and how long you need to keep it in the oil.
If your oil is coming out pitch black with MMO in there then that means it is working. It took me 8000 miles with MMO in my engine to get everything totally clean, some engines take longer than others to get clean.
I have a couple cans of seafoam in the stash. I will use that.
I feel you are on the right track here, it seems that MMO has darkened your oil by your comments that it came out dark when you changed your oil.
I have not used Seafoam but I would encourage you to find out how much you need to use and how long you need to keep it in the oil.
If your oil is coming out pitch black with MMO in there then that means it is working. It took me 8000 miles with MMO in my engine to get everything totally clean, some engines take longer than others to get clean.
I ended up trying out the Gunk just because I had it and I just wanted to see how it did. I emptied out some oil from the oil filter to see what color it was (was just put in last Friday) and it looked like new oil. I added the full quart of gunk and let my engine idle for 20 minutes revving to 2000 rpm every minute. The oil came out very black. No idea if that means anything or if it actually did anything. I will continue to use 1 quart of mmo per OCI and using rotella. It is amazing how much better my truck runs with a 40wt HDEO in the sump.
Originally Posted By: rastoma
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
I picked up a quart of Gunk Engine Flush as no place has the B12 flush only the fuel cleaner.
I'd use Seafoam instead of Gunk, more positive comments on various forums I visit for Seafoam.
I haven't used it but plan on as soon as it comes in, even though I believe Auto-RX is the best after reading all the comments. It's a more gentle slow flush over 3k miles which is better than possible loosening up chunks of sludge that block oil passages. Gotta order it though, can't pick it up locally.
I think you should try out a product first before calling it the best.
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
I picked up a quart of Gunk Engine Flush as no place has the B12 flush only the fuel cleaner.
I'd use Seafoam instead of Gunk, more positive comments on various forums I visit for Seafoam.
I haven't used it but plan on as soon as it comes in, even though I believe Auto-RX is the best after reading all the comments. It's a more gentle slow flush over 3k miles which is better than possible loosening up chunks of sludge that block oil passages. Gotta order it though, can't pick it up locally.
I think you should try out a product first before calling it the best.
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