2013 Subaru 2.5L oil burn

Okay, I will try it and see how it goes.


That's how I am seeing this issue too. It'd be great if I can address the issue, if it doesn't work, that's fine too.
It'd be nice that this oil burn issue doesn't worsen either. What are your suggestions for trying a few things?

Thanks!
There is a Gumout AIO in a metal can that says it’s ok to use in crankcase. You could try MMO as well if you’re desperate, but in reality your best bet is to buy a quart or two of HPL EC30 and use those for top-up until your current OCI is complete.

After that, do a full OCI with HPL PCEO 5w30, and reassess. The thicker 5w30 will help minimize burning while the HPL is working its magic. I’d run the HPL the full 6k recommendation, and use the extra quart(s) of HPL 5w30 to top up if needed during this OCI.

Assess your oil usage during the 6k, and if it does not significantly improve with this regimen, you’re likely out of options short of a re-ring, and Subarus aren’t inexpensive to do this on because of the assembly style of the Boxer.

Is your car a manual? Because the autos using oil was nowhere near as bad as a small batch of the FBs when they first came out, when paired with sticks. Good luck!
 
Thank you everyone for the input, I appreciate it.

@SubieRubyRoo

I will try your suggestion and report back.
Regarding this: "There is a Gumout AIO in a metal can that says it’s ok to use in crankcase. You could try MMO as well if you’re desperate, but in reality your best bet is to buy a quart or two of HPL EC30 and use those for top-up until your current OCI is complete."

Can I just substitute with HP engine cleaner? 1 Qt of engine cleaner when my oil level goes low and drive another 1-1.3k miles or so on it.
I can then fill perform an engine oil change with HPL 5w-30.

Thanks
 
Can I just substitute with HP engine cleaner? 1 Qt of engine cleaner when my oil level goes low and drive another 1-1.3k miles or so on it.
I can then fill perform an engine oil change with HPL 5w-30.

Thanks
That’s exactly what I meant… you “could” choose to run the Gumout, and/or the HPL… but my preferred method would be pure HPL since it performs a gentle cleaning yet doesnt impact the overall oil because of the method of cleaning vs. a crankcase additive. 👍🏻
 
Has the PCV valve ever been replaced? It's a maintenance item that should be replaced every 30K (I believe) or so, according to Subaru.

 
Question: how often are you checking your oil? You posted that you check often, but also posted what leads me to believe that you’re waiting for the light to actually add oil. I agree with the suggestion to add small amounts every weekend or so.
 
You could try, Rislone Engine Treatment has esters in it. Gumout Multi-System Tune Up, or the HPL EC30/40. Also ester/AN oils may help- Amsoil SS, Motul ester line of oils, Torco, M1 0w40, Renewable Lubricants or the HPL line of oils. Also saw the new Blue Devil ceramic additive claims to dissolve varnish/sludge and cleans piston rings - who knows if it can work or not. Could try PP Euro L 5w30 as well, stayed full in my kids Volvo C30 when M1 and Castrol burned about 2qts per 7k oci
 
Update:

As I mentioned earlier, I used YAMALUBE ring free (2500 miles ago).
I used 6 oz for entire tank, and then another 6 oz on empty tank. It seemed to have done something as my low oil light came on around 1900 mile mark. Then I used Rislone engine treatment (500 ml) and got low oil light around 2500 mile mark.

I just did an oil change with HPL Engine Oil 5w-30, 5 qts.
Edit: I already had PCV valve replaced about 2 years ago, hence I have not replaced again.
 
Hi Everyone,

I have a 2013 Subaru Outback 2.5L that has developed oil burning issue. I purchased this vehicle at 105k miles about 2 years ago. My first low oil warning light came on at 3500miles. The manual suggests 7500 miles; however, this early generation of FB25 engines were notorious for oil burning issue. I had some data from car fax, and noticed the vehicle got oil change roughly around 3.5k miles. I had actually contacted the Subaru and they never followed up with me and I got busy, so I left it at that time.

After my first oil change 2 years ago, I noticed the oil burning has steadily increased. I put Castrol Edge 5w-20 and have changed oil back and forth Kirkland, Pennzoil to see if particular oil reduced the consumption. I have also changed PCV valve about two years ago. The old fun was still functioning (rattling).

Ever since my first oil change at ~108k, I have been trying to address the oil consumption issue one way, or another. I would like to note my vehicle currently burns 1 qt at roughly 1300-1400 miles.
Things I have tried:
Liqui Moly Engine Flush: No impact
Berryman B12: Gas tank. I bet the vehicle needed this as I felt increased power.
BG EPR: No Impact, or marginal as I did feel increased torque due to better compression? Done 3500 miles later than b-12.
Berry Man B12: in Engine: It didn’t do anything. Might have done some cleaning, but oil burn didn’t change.

Currently I am trying yamalube ring free. The instruction call for 1 oz every 10 gallons, but I poured 6 oz for my entire tank. It’s still running on it, so I can’t report anything. The last oil change I had was with Rosella t6, and it didn’t help with oil burn, my low oil light came on at 1400 miles.
I would like to know from the community, is there anything that’s proven to address this issue?
Browsing this forum, it seems HPL engine oil might be worth trying, or BG engine flush kit.

Thanks!!!
Make sure you do lots of foot down highway driving....when safe.

You want to flood those cylinders and get them good and hot.
 
From what I saw in a article was low tension oil rings and too long a drain interval on these engines at the time with the oil available. They just plain stuck in this piston. You can Try M1 5w30 Extended performance. Change every 6 months or 3500 miles may work. I does sound like you tried everything else.
 
Update: I did an oil change with 5 Qt HP Engine OIL 5W-30.
I got my low oil engine light at 1650. I added 1 qt again. I will change the oil filter.
 
Make sure you do lots of foot down highway driving....when safe.

You want to flood those cylinders and get them good and hot.
Not sure that’s the best idea. That’s the only condition my Subarus have ever burned appreciable amounts of oil… when I was on the highway for long distances, at 75+ mph keeping up with traffic. Remember that the boxer has horizontal cylinders, and doesn't need lots of RPM to get oil in the cylinder liners.
 
I still find that my fb25 has oil passing through the PCV valve, so much so that the best thing I've done has been the installation of a catch can. Just so it doesn't try to burn in the cylinder and [further] foul the rings. I know its going out the PCV valve because the hose outlet/intake manifold inlet has a glossy coating of oil on the ID of the hose and the ID of the IM inlet nipple connection
 
At this point, after your run of the HPL oil --- try running Mobil 1 0W40. WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO LOSE???
This is true. I have had great luck as mentioned before with M1. 0W40 may have more detergents and I've used it in a 2006 diesel sprinter. 5w30 M1 saved me an engine job with the EJ253 using 1 qt every 500 miles ruining converters every 10,000 miles at 120,000. The Ext performance was even better in the EJ253. and almost back to as new consumption at 177000 miles OCI 4 to 5,000 miles. Sorry I keep blowing this horn because it worked for me. Other oils may be similar although I cannot speak of them other than Rotella synthetic T4.
 
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